|
Boaz MacPhereson posted:Take it down to metal and clearcoat it. This... could be interesting. Applebees Appetizer posted:And that's when you start wishing you had a time machine to go back to the PO before he put on those dumbass fender flares and lifted a spray can to it, NOOOOOOO im gonna own this car eventually you moron Yes. BigPaddy posted:That paint is beyond saving and would need to be rubbed back to the original paint/primer and getting a respray. Yes. Judging from the “before” pictures, and evidence of accident damage, the front fenders and hood had been repainted, and were already fading to more silver than the correct light silver-blue, anyway. Still looked better.
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2017 19:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
No work on the Crayolla this weekend. This weekend was my wife's Kia Spectra5's time. Struts and lower control arms, and spark plugs and wires. It needed them badly. Also put up some Christmas lights. I did realize suddenly that I'm going to need a functioning horn button to pass inspection. Thankfully, the previous owner included not one, but two stock steering wheels. One's in terrible condition, but the other is usable, and both appear to have serviceable horn button assemblies. So I'll pull the Momo and slap one of those on this week, I think. I want to degrease the trunk (it's grungy as heck), then I can put the rear seat back in. Still waiting for my wife to change the insurance, as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2017 16:56
|
|
|
Progress! I actually got something done on the Corolla, after I finished the rear struts on the Kia, and Christmas shopping. First, I put the OEM steering wheel back on, because it has a horn button. Also, it's actually far enough from the turn signal stalk that I don't hit it with my fingers using the steering wheel. Bonus: I indexed the turn signal cancelling cam correctly with the wheel, so that works, too. That wheel is pencil thin, though. I need to find a proper with-horn-provisions steering wheel adapter, and possibly a 1/2" or so spacer. What's a good brand on wheel adapters? Isn't Boss decent but not stupid expensive? Next: a box!  But what's *in* the box? Could it be? Yes! It's cheap springs!  I didn't take a lot of pictures. Only did the rear springs, since that's where the problem is (rubbing), and rear springs on a live axle are relatively easy. I did end up having to loosen the pivot bolts on all the control arms and release one end of the panhard rod to get the rear to drop enough to get the new springs in. Took the shocks loose at the lower end too, of course. The new springs are a smidge taller:   And yet, only ended up maybe 3/4" higher in the back:  Looks good to me. Rearend appears to be off center to the left:   More on that in a moment. I decided to do the front springs later, as it was getting dark, their a bit more involved, and not really causing any trouble at the moment. So I moved on the the greasy grungy trunk. Before:    After dousing with purple cleaner, scrubbing, and rinsing:    Much better. A little dirt, scratches and scuffs I get, but this was oily and greasy. No thank you. I like to be able to use my trunk without worrying about the stuff I put back there getting filthy. Anyway, regarding that rearend offset? It might be, a little, due to lowering with a panhard bar, but I think it's mostly just appearance. I know that there is damage to the left quarter. While cleaning the trunk I noticed some rippling of the trunk floor by the inner wheel house (see the pic of the main bit of trunk floor, on the far left), so I think that the fender is pushed in a bit, right there at the rear of the wheel well. Nuts. Not sure how I'll fix that. If I can get my wife to get around to doing the insurance, I could drive it now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2017 16:08
|
|
|
Comparison: Both pictures have the car itself level. Maybe I should make the tire's contact patches level instead. At any rate, it's got a little bit of a forward rake now. edit: Tires leveled instead. 
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Dec 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2017 19:13
|
|
|
Figure out how to level it front-rear, but it really does look a lot better now  Wouldn't be hard to calculate how much weight you need to add back there to level the car out.... just moving the battery might almost do it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2017 19:35
|
|
|
You can probably just add a horn wire without getting a whole new steering wheel hub.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2017 19:58
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:Figure out how to level it front-rear, but it really does look a lot better now I haven't installed the new front springs yet. I imagine that will solve the issue. jamal posted:You can probably just add a horn wire without getting a whole new steering wheel hub. Nope. It's a racing hub. Solid aluminum. No slip ring. ...which begs the question: how the hell was it not sounding the horn *all* the time? Need to look at that closer. I think maybe it had a step in the column in that was too far out for the horn contact. I didn't change anything there - I just put the OEM wheel back on with the cancelling cam turned the right way to engage the indexing holes on the back of the wheel. Horn worked!
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2017 23:08
|
|
|
Aha! I see what's what with thei steering wheel adapter. I't supposed to have an slip ring that adds on, then the wire feeds through a hole in the base, and then through the side. Mine looks exactly like this, but it's missing the slip ring: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Steering-6-Hole-Adaptor-Silver/dp/B01MG2SAOU   I don't have a horn button for the Momo, but I think the one from an eBay special wheel I'll never use again (because I can twist it like a pretzel) will fit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 19, 2017 00:43
|
|
|
Did a little work on the 8-6 over the holidays (Saturday, mainly, since it got fairly cold [for Texas] Saturday night, and remains so). I pulled the headliner (which is filthy and will be cleaned before reinstalling) to check the sunroof drains, since I had previously found water in the rear seat area. All the drains appeared to be clear, and flowed fine when I blasted air, then water through them. Interestingly, the rear drains dribble out from under the trim at the rear lower corner of the side windows. If water's getting in from the sunroof, it has to be a lot of it to back up enough to overflow the channel in the roof. Guess I'll check more when it gets warm enough to play with water outside again. Surprisingly, the headliner actually came out easily, fitting through the door opening without having to bend it or anything. I cracked or broke a couple pieces of brittle plastic trim, of course. Those will get glued back together and possibly reinforced with fiberglass. Went ahead and chucked the back seat back in, this time with the seat backs properly attached:   Still needs to be vacuumed and cleaned, but it's not cluttering up the garage at least. And it's a tiny bit quieter inside the car. Still need to replace the hardboard for the rear deck panel, and the passenger rear seat side panel, which is why those aren't installed. I'll likely throw a little sound deadener on those bulkheads as well, and plastic sheeting on the side panels, like on the doors. Seat backs latch and fold down properly. On Tuesday, I got in the steering wheel hub, and a 1/2" spacer. I needed the spacer, because I kept hitting the turn signal lever with my fingers wrapped around the wheel.  So, not only was my existing hub missing the slip ring, it was missing the hole for the wire to feed it. Got the new hub out of the box and:   gently caress. OK, fine. So, I can drill a hole for the wire in the silver one, and use the half-inch spacer. Except the bit that the slip ring would fit over on the silver hub is juuuuuuust a tiny bit bigger than the bit on the blue one, and slightly tapered, and I don't have a lathe at the moment. Could take it to my dads, I guess. It's either that, or buy a 1" spacer. At least my wife finally got around to getting the insurance (long story short: we changed insurance companies, house and cars, because Liberty wanted to charge us $500/year *more* for the 1987 economy car [Corolla] versus my 1990 sports car [RX-7]. No claims in the last 4.5 years. Well, dicks, no you get no money at all from us, and now we have more coverage on both for less.) The insurance takes effect end of the month, so I can go get it inspected and registered. It continues to start and run reasonably well. I did note quite a bit of blow-by when I opened the oil cap in the cam cover with it running, and the brakes are still squishier than I like, but they work OK. The heater does not appear to work. I disconnected the actuator cable from the heater valve, since the cable is currently stuck, and operated the heater valve manually. I get no heat in either position, and the heater hoses don't get hot, so I'm guessing either the valve is bad, or the heater core or one of the hoses is stopped up, because the engine definitely gets to temperature, and the radiator hoses are hot. Relatively easy to check - pull the hoses and start flushing water through things. Just as soon as it either warms up or I feel like playing with water outside in the cold. Oh, and I still need to install the new front springs, and get an alignment.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2017 17:31
|
|
|
Your water leak could be from your rear windows above the seats, as the butyl adhesive tends to not seal well at this point. Replacing the adhesive on mine was one of the most nerve wracking jobs I've done since I end up being ham fisted when it comes to any glass handling. Most of the exterior window trim was unobtanium new as of 2014, but hopefully that has changed.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Side windows, or the actual rear glass? There seemed to be a fair amount of water in the plastic trim when I removed it to get the headliner out, so you may be on to something.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2017 20:19
|
|
|
Sorry for not being clear, as the side windows are what I meant were the likely culprits.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 02:51
|
|
|
Whoa so the FLEX TAPE won't work?!?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 05:48
|
|
|
Time to rock out with your caulk out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 14:29
|
|
|
pr0craztinazn posted:Sorry for not being clear, as the side windows are what I meant were the likely culprits. I thought that was what you meant, just wanted to be sure. I'll check 'em out when it's warm enough to play with the water hose. Mr-Spain posted:Whoa so the FLEX TAPE won't work?!? Sure will, but it doesn't complement the teal spray paint AT ALL. InitialDave posted:Time to rock out with your caulk out. Pretty much.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 15:33
|
|
|
Mr-Spain posted:Whoa so the FLEX TAPE won't work?!? Well yeah, it is a car not a boat that has been cut in half.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 15:38
|
|
|
BigPaddy posted:Well yeah, it is a car not a boat that has been cut in half. Funny thing is I got some Flex Tape for Christmas. I plan to use it as essentially outdoor duct tape, since 3M's Clear Duct Tape is a bit pricey and hard to find locally. The 3M Clear actually held up great outdoors when I needed to temporarily replace a quarter window on my Cutlass while I worked on it. edit: I was a bit disappointed with the Flex Seal spray. There's a joint in my gutters that I *cannot* get to seal, and Flex Seal didn't fix it. It's supposed to be just sort of miraculous!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 18:08
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:edit: I was a bit disappointed with the Flex Seal spray. There's a joint in my gutters that I *cannot* get to seal, and Flex Seal didn't fix it. It's supposed to be just sort of miraculous! Sugru will fix that!
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
meltie posted:Sugru will fix that! You'd think the gutter sealer goo I put into the joint would have done that, too. Obviously, I should have use orange RTV.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 20:16
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:You'd think the gutter sealer goo I put into the joint would have done that, too. Buh. Time for the flextape then.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
meltie posted:Buh. Time for the flextape then. Obviously.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2018 06:49
|
|
|
Well, poop. Noticed a puddle under the right rear wheel yesterday, and it wasn't frozen @ 19 degrees-F, so it wasn't ice melt. Brake fluid. Guess I need to replace the wheel cylinder on that side as well. Explains why it was such a pain to get the system bled, and why I still have a squishy pedal, I guess. Also why the brake fluid was low last week.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2018 15:13
|
|
|
Dammit. DAMMIT.  Little darker spot on the right end was there earlier in the week. Just a little oil drip. The bigger spot turned up yesterday when everything thawed, and it's still there this morning. Coolant, I'm betting. Haven't had the time or heart to check it. Ordered a wheel cylinder for the rear from Rock Auto on Tuesday. It should be here in time to fix it over the weekend. Supposed to be in the 50s (F), so not miserable. Will have to check out the puddle from the front. Possibly put in the front springs. I also have some fancy drilled and slotted rotors that the the PO included, but I probably won't put those on until it's warm enough to clean and paint all the other brake components, since I hate new shiny parts attached to crusty nasty stuff. Probably should actually make use of my media plaster to clean the parts. No excuse not to - all I need to do to finish it is install the clear acetate glass protector on the inside, and load the media now. I definitely love how parts come out of the blaster. Come to think of it, I should probably blast and paint the whole strut assembly. My cabinet is big enough. edit: finally got insurance set up on it. Figures that the brakes would take a poo poo now that I can take it to inspection. Hopefully I can get that fixed early enough on Saturday to get it inspected, and go register it during the week.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2018 15:45
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:DAMMIT. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jan 4, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2018 15:48
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:Looks like blinker fluid, no big deal. Do you have a kid you can send out on a run to the parts store for replacement, and also can't you just get a seal for that? Yeah, I think that blinker housing is cracked. Better check that. Daughter isn't old enough to drive yet, and has major anxiety about talking to strangers, so probably won't get to use that gag. This time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2018 16:10
|
|
|
Before I moved the 86 to replace the wheel cylinder, I looked at where the coolant might be coming from. Didn't take long:   I assume that there's an o-ring in there. It's never leaked before, until it got below freezing. It's got antifreeze in there, but who knows how much concentration? On to the wheel cylinder! It was definitely leaking from the wheel cylinder. Hard to tell in the picture (since I somehow managed to completely not get it in focus), but basically only the backing plate was wet, and the lower bit of the drum that was horizontal, until I moved the car and spread brake fluid around.  Wheel cylinder was all wet on the bottom (heh.)  Installed the Centric wheel cylinder from Rock Auto, cleaned everything up with most of a can of brake cleaner, then spent like 3 years bleeding the damned thing, again. I hate drum brakes. I don't have a pressure bleeder, and a vacuum bleeder on drums just pulls air past the piston cups in the cylinder. After 1/2 qt. of fluid and a lot of pumping (heh, heh) it finally bled solid, and pedal was decent. At least it already had clean fluid in the system. Topped up the coolant with 50/50 green, and took it for a drive around the block. Pedal remained decent, if not great. Car stopped OK - a little grabby on the right front. Will look at that when I change out the front springs. Oddly, the coolant leak dried up, and didn't come back. It was too late to get inspected, so I went ahead and paid $25 for a 30-day tag, because I'm impatient, and wanted to drive it without worrying about cops to a local car meet Saturday evening. It made that round trip without issue. It's still scary as gently caress on the highway thanks to cut springs and probably wonky alignment, but it's solid. Sunday it rained, and I had house stuff to take care of, so the front springs will wait until (hopefully) next weekend. Finally used up all the old gas driving to the meet, so it's got a full tank of fresh gas, which seems to have improved it's odor already. Exhaust is never great, but the Corolla's was pretty bad. Because it's legal, and I didn't have to take my daughter to school today, I drove it to work for the first time. No heat, no AC, but it's in the 50s (F) today, so it's fine. I did find some time on Saturday to begin addressing the Momo steering wheel issue. Previously, you may recall, I bought a new hub with horn slip ring and a half-inch spacer for the Momo. Again, you may recall that the new adapter ended up being almost exactly 1/2" shorter than the one I had, AND the protrusion on the steering shaft end was just a tiny bit too large for the slip ring that came with the other hub. I don't have a lathe, but I do have a belt sander, this doesn't need to be super precise, and we're only talking about a couple of millimeters. So:  Note that one of the holes for the turn signal canceling cam broke out. And the piece of resitance:  (this is after drilling a hole in the flange to feed the wire through) Next: mount spacer, mount wheel, and I'm going to cut a tab on the horn button retainer to let me attach a 1/4" quick connect for ground. Like this:  I've got a horn button in my eBay Chinese steering wheel I can use, since I will never be using that piece of cheese as a steering wheel again. I need to print up some TEQ or Momo logos to put under the clear plastic cap. Thinking of spending the money for one of these:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749RK7XF/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1PZS5EK57SYL2&colid=30BU667WULMJV&psc=1 $26 or these:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714LM4JH/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2TH2UXEVYYMH4&colid=30BU667WULMJV&psc=0 $20. The internets want $18+ for the same lovely plastic one I've already got, albeit with a fancy embossed logo sticker under the clear cap. Those above are both billet aluminum.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2018 23:31
|
|
|
I should probably think about getting shocks and struts for the thing, too. No telling how many miles are on whatever those are that are on it. And an actual PCV system instead of just the breather. The air filter housing has a nipple for it, so no real reason not to. Lord knows it had plenty of blow-by when I opened the oil fill cap while it was running.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2018 23:33
|
|
|
No, a little PCV hose wouldn't hurt anything I don't think. In the future, you may want to look into Antique tags if you're not driving it around much, but need to keep it registered and insured. You can "only drive it for events and vehicle maintenance", but it's cheap, and doesn't have a monthly upkeep cost: https://www.dmv.org/tx-texas/special-license-plates.php quote:Antique license plates for vehicles that are: I'd say you suit all three of those criteria for now. Texas DMV in my area states that they'll let you switch over to Classic ("Old but daily driven") registration at any time you please.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2018 00:01
|
|
|
A catch can between the block/head vents and the intake might be an ok idea.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2018 00:09
|
|
|
Waffle House posted:No, a little PCV hose wouldn't hurt anything I don't think. I keep thinking about getting those for my '70 Cutlass, mainly because I have 1970 plates, and they'll let you run year of manufacture plate with Antique reg, but I wasn't to drive the thing. As I understand it, though, cops aren't likely to pull you over to ask if you're going to a parade or whatever. The Corolla I intend to drive a bit more, but still might try it. jamal posted:A catch can between the block/head vents and the intake might be an ok idea. Might be a good idea. I'll see how much of a mess it makes in the air filter first. edit: just bought an AW11 combination switch on eBay to get the cruise control stalk. $65 shipped, not terrible. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Jan 11, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2018 20:49
|
|
|
forgot to upload pictures of the Crayolla away from it's normal habitat (immobile in my driveway.) I mentioned that I drove it to work on Monday. Proof:  I should have moved it. That light was directly above the car.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2018 00:15
|
|
|
Cropped and auto-
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2018 00:24
|
|
|
Waffle House posted:No, a little PCV hose wouldn't hurt anything I don't think. Just so you are aware cops will not pull you over just for having antique plates. If they did pull you over for any other reason they almost assuredly would not say anything about the antique plates. I daily drive several vehicles with antique plates and have never been hassled about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2018 10:38
|
|
|
Good to know. I suspected that was the case.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2018 23:23
|
|
|
OK, had a little time Saturday! Went and got it inspected, passed no problem. Actually got a 20-something at Kwik-Kar who knew what it was. Got to love those $7 safety inspections for old stuff. Now I can transfer title and register it, probably late this week or next week when I have the $$. Shouldn't be much - I can't see the blue book value being too much, regardless of what the drift kids are paying for them. So, since I had previously made the horn slip ring fit my steering wheel hub, it was time to put the Momo back on the car. Quick shots of the assembled wheel and hub: Printed out a Toyota "TEQ", which isn't actually "TEQ", it's "Toyoda" in kana, to put in the horn cap. Broke the clear cover because I'm stupid and forgot how the horn button came apart.   Horn button removed, showing the tab I cut and bent out for the ground wire:  So I pull the OEM wheel, no problem. Plop the Momo on there - and the horn button doesn't work. Shorting the terminal at the button to ground doesn't work. I've got continuity from the slip ring to the button, and to ground when I push the button. No continuity to the horn pin in the column. Horn beeps when I pull the wheel and short the pin to the shaft. How is this thing failing to make contact? So I pull the trim to have a look. Looks OK from this angle. The adapter is definitely pushing the pin in. Also confirmed that the turn signal canceling cam in being engaged, so that's nice.  But if you move back juuust a bit on the angle, guess what?   If you look closely, the pin is riding on the plastic inner ring, rather than on the metal slip ring. I buy a thing for my thing and it doesn't work with my thing. Mother fucker. Let's measure this to confirm:  15.5 mm.  16 mm. Really, you shits? So, I'm either going to fabricate my own slip ring out of acrylic or something, or add a bit to this one. Either way, I need to stop at the hobby shop for some thin brass sheet. Jerks. Edit: Texas Presumptive Value on the car, which is what they tax, unless the actual purchase price is higher, (and why would you put that if it is the case?) is $500, which means sales tax is $31.25. However, it was an even trade, so if I'm reading this right, the tax should be $5. Title transfer fee is $28 or $33, depending on county, then I'll need to pay the $55 registration fee as well. So, like $100 all in. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 15, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2018 18:27
|
|
|
Picked up some .015” sheet brass at a hobby store to see about fabricating a slip ring for the horn. Mailed the Application for Title Transfer form to the seller because I forgot to have him sign one when we did the exchange. Hopefully he’ll get that back to me quickly so I can register the thing. Shouldn’t be a problem - we’ve been in contact since about various things. Planning on doing the front struts this weekend, and working on the horn problem. Supposed to be nice, in the high 50s (F). I’m sure my wife will pull something out of the blue for me to do instead.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2018 22:05
|
|
|
Actually got into the 60s, so work got did. 56k warning - lots of pictures. How many of you are young enough that you don't get the reference? A box came in the mail. What could be in the box?  Why, it's an MR2 part!  ... which also happens to fit and function in an AE86. Woot! But first, necessary things. First up, replace the damned cut springs. Stock strut housings. No idea if the contents are original, but likely are.  Cut spring end:  They're cut short enough that they don't maintain contact at full droop:  Keep in mind that the new springs are anout 1"-1.5" lowering springs:  Lovely new springs, that did require compressing the spring to get the top on:  Intallated:   Here's a gem: the two front springs aren't even cut the same. The left one is half a turn longer. Possibly to account for more sagging on the driver's side? I hope that was the reason, and not "dumbass".  The struts were both about done. Will need to replace those. One stayed extended OK, the other couldn't hold itself up fro long. Both had some resistance in both directions, at least, so not completely useless. With that done, I went on to install new rotors that were included with the car. The previous owner didn't quite understand how old-school rotors worked, and questioned their fit, since there was no way for them to slip over the hub. That's because the bolt to the back of the hub, a common Toyota thing. This means, of course, that one has to remove the hub and bearings, and all the greasy mess that entails. Plenty of grease on the passenger side, where I started:  Bit of a ridge on the back side of the rotor (front, too, actually):  Bolts out (this is actually the driver's side, which also has a bit of wear.)  Pressing out the hub, since it is a close fit to prevent imbalances:  Popped loose:   Compare to the new rotors:  Yeah, they're drilled and slotted. I know it's 99% for appearance, but I like them. Also, remember, they came with the car. At least they're coated. Pressed back on (actually, I think this one snugged up with just the bolts with no trouble.)    Installed:  I packed the bearings while I was in there, just adding to the existing grease, as it seemed in good shape. Not dried out or anything. Bearings looked good. For once, I didn't powerwash and paint anything, though I did clean all the dirt and grease off on and around the dust cap before popping it off. I'll probably do a more thorough cleaning when I replace the inserts. Maybe. Also cleaned and greased the slider pins for the brake calipers - the car seemed to pull a bit under hard braking. One caliper's slider was a bit sticky with dried old grease. Braking is still poo poo, and the pedal is still mush. I can't even lock up the front brakes at all, so I either still have air in the system, or the master cylinder is crap. I mean, it stops, but a panic stop will be... concerning. I've gotten too used the good, responsive brakes in the Crown Vic. On a test drive, brakes aside, the car drove a lot better, though the alignment is still clearly off. It's twitchy. I think the toe is out of whack, and possibly the caster on one or both sides. It tends to pull to the right when hitting bumps, which is odd. The bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends were all solid - checked while I was under there. Needs tie rod boots. Checked out function on the MR2 combo switch:  Power light came on when "power" on the cruise stalk was pushed, and all the signal functions worked, so I installed it - and somehow forgot to take a picture. Eh, it looks just like it did, but with a stalk on the right side, now. Cruise did not set on a test drive, so I'll need to diagnose the CC controller. hopefully it has a self-test mode like the one in my FC RX-7 had. Sunday, I had house stuff to do, then it decided to rain (plus a little hail.) Perfect time to work on the horn slip ring in the garage. Stupid damend slip ring the steering wheel hub came with, with some new slots cut in the metal:   After a bit of measuring, a CAD model was built:  Tabs bend down to go through slots:  et viola:  Then bend again to retain and connect:  Quick check to make sire the horn contact is where I think it is, using the original combo switch:  Then it's time for the real deal, in brass.  Poor man's Dykem:   Center marked to use a hole saw on the inner hole:   A bunch of trimming with shears, and:  Then some work with a Dremel tool and my belt sander:   Tabs bent:  We have insertion (unf):  Bend tabs on the back side:  Test for continuity:  Check! Ran out of time and energy at this point, plus my wife had just returned with Stromboli, so installation will have to wait. Hopefully, it will be anticlimactic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 19:58
|
|
|
Oh, almost forgot! The left headlight was jiggly - turned out to be that one of the pivot pins for the pop up had wallowed out it's hole, so I tack welded the pin to it's frame. That stopped the jiggling nicely. It was really distracting with the HIDzzzz. edit: in other news, there are some rodents in the house/garage that have just signed their death warrants:  Had to cut off the bad section of hose at one end, and trim the tapered bit at the other. Accessories just barely fit now. This is after they gnawed through the power wire for the network switch at my desk on one occasion, and the power wire for the desk lamp on another. I hope the little poo poo got zapped good with the desk lamp - it was 110V. The switch was just 9V or something. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jan 22, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 19:58
|
|
|
Huh, I didn't know these had inboard-ish brakes. That's good to know.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 20:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
Darchangel posted:Here's a gem: the two front springs aren't even cut the same. The left one is half a turn longer. Possibly to account for more sagging on the driver's side? I hope that was the reason, and not "dumbass". Does the PO know you have a project thread or have any chance of reading this?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2018 22:00
|
|
