Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Three-Phase posted:

I am thinking about getting a Powerspec/Wanhao i3 Mini for printing some small parts.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486633/Duplicator_i3_Mini_3D_Printer

Questions:

1. This machine prints based off GCODE files - is this a standard file format that can be generated from all kinds of different software, or is it a proprietary format? (I am more used to STL and I know that is not proprietary.)

G-code isn't a 3D file format. It's a list of movement commands for the printer motors that when executed by the machine will build the part. The STL file is parsed and the g-code is generated based on the geometry. But you can't edit the shape of the part in the g-code or even return it to a 3D file format -- at least not without losing precision.

You could compare it to a 2D rendering of a 3D scene -- a useful output but no longer editable.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Three-Phase
Aug 5, 2006

by zen death robot
Any recommendations on software to go from STL or OBJ to GCODE?

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

Yes, any slicing application: slic3r, cura, simplify3d, etc.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

The generic term for such programs is CAM software -- computer-aided machining. However, in 3D printing, the software is specifically called a "slicer" because the requirements for 3D printing are different enough from subtractive machining that the software is distinct.

The most popular slicers these days are Cura (free and easy with a decent amount of advanced control), Slic3r/PrusaSlic3r (free, harder to use than Cura, but with more powerful features), and Simplify3D (costs money, good results, but the free options have mostly caught up).

I personally use PrusaSlic3r. https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/

mewse
May 2, 2006


2nding Slic3r PE

Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum
I noticed that (as of the last update) Windows 10 seems to come with it's own slicer. Anyone actually tried using it? It detected my MP Mini Delta (as a generic 3d printer) but lacked whatever extension it needed to adjust options for it, so I didn't risk trying it.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

mewse posted:

2nding Slic3r PE

3rding. Used KISSlicer a lot, had no real problems until a dying hard drive lost my config files. Tried Cura too but Slic3r PE is just so much faster to do everything, and I had it producing good prints almost on the first shot.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Prusa i3 mk2s kit has been ordered! Feel like I’m in for a hell of a ride!

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
Anyone got any hints to get the Rpi camera module working with Octoprint? Rpi camera V2 with a stock Octoprint image that has been updated.

I'm starting to think I have a bad camera module as nothing seems to get any signs of life out of it.

Octoprint posted:

pi@octopi:~/mjpg-streamer $ ./mjpg_streamer -i "./input_raspicam.so -fps 5" -o "./output_http.so"
MJPG Streamer Version.: 2.0
i: fps.............: 5
i: resolution........: 640 x 480
i: camera parameters..............:

Sharpness 0, Contrast 0, Brightness 50
Saturation 0, ISO 0, Video Stabilisation No, Exposure compensation 0
Exposure Mode 'auto', AWB Mode 'auto', Image Effect 'none'
Metering Mode 'average', Colour Effect Enabled No with U = 128, V = 128
Rotation 0, hflip No, vflip No
ROI x 0.000000, y 0.000000, w 1.000000 h 1.000000
o: www-folder-path......: disabled
o: HTTP TCP port........: 8080
o: HTTP Listen Address..: (null)
o: username:password....: disabled
o: commands.............: enabled
i: Starting Camera
mmal: mmal_vc_component_enable: failed to enable component: ENOSPC
camera couldn't be enabled

mewse
May 2, 2006

helno posted:

Anyone got any hints to get the Rpi camera module working with Octoprint? Rpi camera V2 with a stock Octoprint image that has been updated.

I'm starting to think I have a bad camera module as nothing seems to get any signs of life out of it.

Long shot but there might be a little ribbon cable on the front face of the camera pcb that may have popped out of its socket.

Fayez Butts
Aug 24, 2006

mattfl posted:

Prusa i3 mk2s kit has been ordered! Feel like I’m in for a hell of a ride!

It's such a great printer

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Fayez Butts posted:

It's such a great printer

Any suggestions on other things I need/should order for it?

Is there a preferred brand of material or what specific material I should start out with for general printing?

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

edit: ^^ Your printer will come with a roll of Prusa filament, so you're good to go as soon as you build it. You'll want other filaments later of course, but the PLA that comes with it is high quality and good for learning the ropes.

helno posted:

Anyone got any hints to get the Rpi camera module working with Octoprint? Rpi camera V2 with a stock Octoprint image that has been updated.

I'm starting to think I have a bad camera module as nothing seems to get any signs of life out of it.

Make sure you're using the camera header, not the display header (same # of pins). My Pi1 recognized the Rpi camera v2 with no input from me, so you may be right and have a bad cam :-/

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

mewse posted:

Long shot but there might be a little ribbon cable on the front face of the camera pcb that may have popped out of its socket.

Took that apart and put it back in. Also reseated the other cables.

Might have to try this on a stock image to see if I can get any signs of life.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Make sure your rpi is getting enough power, I had some issues with getting my camera displaying with a supposedly 2A source, but when I tried a better one (anker charger) it was fine.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

CloFan posted:

edit: ^^ Your printer will come with a roll of Prusa filament, so you're good to go as soon as you build it. You'll want other filaments later of course, but the PLA that comes with it is high quality and good for learning the ropes.



Awesome, wasn't sure if it came with any.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

Rexxed posted:

Make sure your rpi is getting enough power, I had some issues with getting my camera displaying with a supposedly 2A source, but when I tried a better one (anker charger) it was fine.

Doesn't seem to be a power issue.

Might just return it and get a USB webcam.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
Another tip about buying filament. One of the best places to buy it is Amazon, especially if you've got Prime. Most of the best brands are there, but so are some of questionable quality. And when you've got poor quality filament, it really can affect your print quality.

What you have to look out for on Amazon is filament with fake reviews. It's a problem we've seen within the community, where vendors attempt to bribe users for good reviews with free filament. If you find something with good reviews, run it by a tool that tests for fake Amazon reviews.

The two brands I've used with good results is Hatchbox (which is one of the most popular brands) and Atomic Filament. I also have Worksteel's wood PLA filament, but I'm beginning to question its worth, because it seems to not take stains well.

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

helno posted:

Anyone got any hints to get the Rpi camera module working with Octoprint? Rpi camera V2 with a stock Octoprint image that has been updated.

I'm starting to think I have a bad camera module as nothing seems to get any signs of life out of it.
Just to be sure have you enabled the camera in raspi-config? Also be sure the cable isn't backward as it goes in both ways and only one way has the contacts facing the right direction (on both sides) as also has been mentioned make sure it is in the right connector because both are the same size. It makes me wonder why they have two because has anyone ever created anything that can use that other connector?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Revol posted:

Another tip about buying filament. One of the best places to buy it is Amazon, especially if you've got Prime. Most of the best brands are there, but so are some of questionable quality. And when you've got poor quality filament, it really can affect your print quality.

What you have to look out for on Amazon is filament with fake reviews. It's a problem we've seen within the community, where vendors attempt to bribe users for good reviews with free filament. If you find something with good reviews, run it by a tool that tests for fake Amazon reviews.

The two brands I've used with good results is Hatchbox (which is one of the most popular brands) and Atomic Filament. I also have Worksteel's wood PLA filament, but I'm beginning to question its worth, because it seems to not take stains well.

I concur on Hatchbox, but I also like eSun, I have only used three spools so far but their PLA seems good. I'm having some layer separation with their ABS but I think I just need to build a little enclosure, the print quality is fine otherwise. I've gotten some of the super cheap brands, especially over black friday weekend also and have had a varied experience. For example, I have some Greatssly that was fine, some Tianse that is good, and some ZIRO transparent that was garbage. However, ZIRO pink printed fine. With the transparent stuff I had prints fail at 205, 210, and 220C. They failed slightly later at 220, but my cooling fan was literally blowing strands of plastic that didn't stick to the previous layer off. I gave up on it for now but I'm guessing I'll need much higher temps or something, which is weird for PLA (most PLA I print at 205C). At regular prices I often go with eSun just because it's $18 vs. the $22 of Hatchbox.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Next question, what’s the best way to store it?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

mattfl posted:

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Next question, what’s the best way to store it?

I've been using 1 gallon zip-lock freezer bags with dessicant in them. Another option is to make a whole plastic storage bin into a spool storage area. I think Thomas Sanladerer had a video about his box setup like that:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OY5n9q-wS7k

CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ziploc-44-Qt-Small-Deep-WeatherShield-Storage-Box-Clear/38345583

Filled I with desiccant packets. Although I got a humidity sensor, and apparently I'm staying around 35%

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

mattfl posted:

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Next question, what’s the best way to store it?

Well for one thing many spools will come vacuum sealed with dessicant, so you can't beat that. Basically leave it in any sealed packaging until you are ready to load it in the extruder. But yeah once the package is opened I basically store my more moisture-sensitive rolls in a 5gal bucket with a dessicant.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
To be a contrarian, I bought a metal rod at Home Depot and then I stick my filament rolls on it, and it sits on my apartment carpet, and I live in humid Tampa Bay. I wouldn't say that proper filament storage is a requirement, but if you can do it, then you should.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I’ve had OK luck storing PLA and PETG in the open, but I’ve had rolls of ABS get pretty crummy with age.

I just try not to open too many rolls at a time and use up what I have. I also don’t care about colors, though.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
I only have PLA, in nine colors. At least one of which is over 10 months old. I also have a roll of white ABS that someone on Reddit gave to me for free, that I haven't opened yet. By the time I get around to trying it, I'll probably have proper storage.

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

Revol posted:

To be a contrarian, I bought a metal rod at Home Depot and then I stick my filament rolls on it, and it sits on my apartment carpet, and I live in humid Tampa Bay. I wouldn't say that proper filament storage is a requirement, but if you can do it, then you should.
Wait, are you me, Tampa Bay resident with spools on the carpet?


My house stays about 55-60% humidity here and storing rolls on the floor has never been a problem. Rolls that come "wet" won't ever become dry if left in a bucket full of desiccant at <20% humidity, at least in any practical amount of time. I've had a moist half spool in a 14-20% airtight bucket for 1.5 years now and I just loaded it up and printed a couple layers and it's still popping and spitting steam. Likewise, any decently dry filament from the factory can't absorb enough moisture out of a 55% humidity environment to become a problem in 6 months of sitting out. This is PETG, PLA, and ABS. Nylon will turn into a wet noodle if you so much as have a pint of beer in the same room as it.

I will say that dust gathering on the filament is a larger issue if a roll sits unused for a long period of time so my cavalier attitude toward filament storage revolves around the fact that all my rolls get used at least once a month, even if I'm only using 50-100g of it at a time.

EDIT: Although I will say I'd prefer having a nicer rack or something under the table that stores them up off the floor.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

CapnBry posted:

EDIT: Although I will say I'd prefer having a nicer rack or something under the table that stores them up off the floor.

If only you had a way of accomplishing that... With a 3D printer or something. :v:

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I was in a slight rush for filament (not actual rush but just like wanna get this out of the way rush) and ordered 3x rolls from one of my favorite semi local e retailers. Don't normally get filament from them, but they had it and I like them and I kinda fired and forgot.

Man was my brain turned off or something idk what possessed me to buy several rolls of esun pla+ at nearly 2x the price of anywhere else :mad:

I got to do my print at least but christ

mophomanners
Feb 6, 2008

Three-Phase posted:

I am thinking about getting a Powerspec/Wanhao i3 Mini for printing some small parts.

http://www.microcenter.com/product/486633/Duplicator_i3_Mini_3D_Printer

Questions:

1. This machine prints based off GCODE files - is this a standard file format that can be generated from all kinds of different software, or is it a proprietary format? (I am more used to STL and I know that is not proprietary.)

2. This machine doesn’t any have a heated bed. Is there some kind of “sticker” that can be placed on the stage to facilitate printing and removal of parts? EDIT: I saw a material called “BuildTak” that is like this.
My day today

Saw the wanhao/powerspec mini in the store and brought it home looked killer

Plugged it in set it up and hit play realized there's no heated bed

Threw it back in the box and brought it back.!! eff that poo poo.
/shopping trips

Nobody has time for printers without heated beds!!!!!!! Don't waste your time..

Order a mono mini v2!

my v1 has been rock solid and I have beat the everlong piss out of it.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
I've had the Tornado for about 2 weeks now, and I gotta say, other than the few bumps in the road, it's a pretty great machine.

I had one clog that was so bad I had to chunk the nozzle, and now the bed is bubbling up off the plate so I ordered a new thermal pad and bought some mirror tiles from Lowe's.

So far the only things I've done to it were :
Open the control box and adjust the voltage on the motors
Add 2 steppers onto the x and y motors
Leveled the bed twice

Later this week I'm going to strip the bed coating/sticker thing off and just go to glass, and that's going to involve a little work, but the most annoying part is going to be leveling the bed and making sure the z endstop is high enough to avoid shattering the mirror.

I have to buy some more nozzles, but that's more of a "Oh poo poo I don't want to get stuck waiting for nozzles when I want to print!" moreso than a "Oh poo poo I need more nozzles!" thing.

Got it for right at 350? or so with DHL shipping from Gearbest, but to be honest I've heard some bad things about them and wait times.

It's a pretty nice printer though. loving HUGE print area of 300x300x400, and it runs about as well as my maker select from Monoprice. It's got one hell of a heated bed too. Heats up in just a minute or two.

It's a little bit of a learning curve since the extruder is different, and I'm about 80% sure the massive clog was my fault, but the print speed and all that jazz is basically the same as the maker select, so it'll take forever to print big poo poo, but it'll print it well.

The fun part is printing the spool holder and other poo poo on the maker select while fiddling with the Tornado. Quick and easy build though. It's about 90% assembled. Not quite the "4 screws!" the monoprice is, but damned close.

Mortvert
Oct 13, 2013

What?!
This is amazing!

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Got it for right at 350? or so with DHL shipping from Gearbest, but to be honest I've heard some bad things about them and wait times.

If you actually got your machine from gearbest - you are really lucky. I had seen some people wait months and never actually get their order, ever. That side is shady as gently caress and you should buy nothing from there.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull
In a "I feel better about asking than trying to sift through every solution's fanboys" sense, is there any particular controller that's actually better in some way instead of just theoretically better? I'm using a smoothie on my main printer and have no complaints but I'm hearing that firmware development stalled whereas the less powerful arduino boards are having more work done even now.

Starting to put together a parts list for my "zomg why are you doing things that way?!" printer.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

mekilljoydammit posted:

In a "I feel better about asking than trying to sift through every solution's fanboys" sense, is there any particular controller that's actually better in some way instead of just theoretically better? I'm using a smoothie on my main printer and have no complaints but I'm hearing that firmware development stalled whereas the less powerful arduino boards are having more work done even now.

Starting to put together a parts list for my "zomg why are you doing things that way?!" printer.

Most of the buzz and activity is around the DuetWifi now. It’s solid hardware, 64bit, excellent stepper drivers builtin. If you want active development, that’s where it’s at.

Foxtrot_13
Oct 31, 2013
Ask me about my love of genocide denial!

Mortvert posted:

If you actually got your machine from gearbest - you are really lucky. I had seen some people wait months and never actually get their order, ever. That side is shady as gently caress and you should buy nothing from there.

I've put three orders through Gearbest and all arrived in plenty of time, one was my Tevo Tarantula.

Put that into the anecdote file if you would like. They are less shady than random Aliexpress seller no 4333556. Not that I would trust them as much as a UK based firm because of consumer protection laws that UK firms have to follow but I would treat them like any non-EU seller where your comeback varies from not much to very little.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

My prusa i3 mk2s is sitting on my doorstep! Missed the UPS driver by like 10 minutes during my lunch break...

Any tips for building this thing or should I just jump right into it?

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

mattfl posted:

My prusa i3 mk2s is sitting on my doorstep! Missed the UPS driver by like 10 minutes during my lunch break...

Any tips for building this thing or should I just jump right into it?

just tell your neighbour to plug it in and enjoy it

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

bring back old gbs posted:

just tell your neighbour to plug it in and enjoy it

Luckily all my neighbors are old and probably have no idea what this new fangled 3d printing stuff is lol

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

mewse
May 2, 2006

My prusa was delivered to my neighbour lmao, I had to enter their yard and grab it from their porch

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply