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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Once church was cancelled because the pipes froze and I was happy. Thx u snow jesus

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Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I've finally, FINALLY had some time to go and play in my new garage. The problem is, it's not only bowed, it's also leaking. I'd like to DIY and so far in the last three weeks we've had approximately half a dozen days where everything isn't sopping wet, but it's not a bad leak. The roof is approx 5m x 4m at a 20 degree pitch, built on concrete block walls.

My money pot is rapidly diminishing with all the sundry tasks around the house, so a good balance between affordable and lasting ~10y is important. The general idea is to replace the joists (with 8x2" on 2' centres) and rafters (same?), then panels (chipboard, etc.), and then finally felt, glued and tacked. Looking at something like this: http://www.haringey.gov.uk/sites/haringeygovuk/files/note18_-_purlin_and_rafter_sizes.pdf I can't help but think that might be slightly over-engineered, broadly coming out to around £360 just for the lumber (I worked it out at roughly 60m of 8x2") - any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Also, it seems there are a million felt options: 'capsheet', 'shed felt', 'felt', 'durable felt', top sheet', etc. and all of the above with 'torch on' varieties. I gather that cap/top sheet are the best quality, then durable, then regular, then shed? Will it make any appreciable difference for the ~10y I expect this to last for?

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Southern Heel posted:

I've finally, FINALLY had some time to go and play in my new garage. The problem is, it's not only bowed, it's also leaking. I'd like to DIY and so far in the last three weeks we've had approximately half a dozen days where everything isn't sopping wet, but it's not a bad leak. The roof is approx 5m x 4m at a 20 degree pitch, built on concrete block walls.

My money pot is rapidly diminishing with all the sundry tasks around the house, so a good balance between affordable and lasting ~10y is important. The general idea is to replace the joists (with 8x2" on 2' centres) and rafters (same?), then panels (chipboard, etc.), and then finally felt, glued and tacked. Looking at something like this: http://www.haringey.gov.uk/sites/haringeygovuk/files/note18_-_purlin_and_rafter_sizes.pdf I can't help but think that might be slightly over-engineered, broadly coming out to around £360 just for the lumber (I worked it out at roughly 60m of 8x2") - any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Also, it seems there are a million felt options: 'capsheet', 'shed felt', 'felt', 'durable felt', top sheet', etc. and all of the above with 'torch on' varieties. I gather that cap/top sheet are the best quality, then durable, then regular, then shed? Will it make any appreciable difference for the ~10y I expect this to last for?

That seems like a lot of money for timber... I

I built my garage 5 years ago. Its a bit bigger than yours. Mine is about 4.5m wide and 6.5m deep. Mine is concrete sections and has a pent roof. I achieved the slope on my roof by using gradually smaller joists from front to back (and notching some of them) - so it is 9x3 at the front reducing down to 4x2 at the back.

Having just checked, I appear to have spent £141+VAT on joists:



You might also find it easier to user metal roofing sheets than wood and felt (and its going to last longer and is less likely to leak!) It cost me £350+VAT for 4x13ft and 4x10ft box profile sheets and all the fixings. (like this stuff).
Probably more costly than wood and felt but significantly easier to fit (especially if you are DIYing it on your own in the rain)

This is not the best picture of the roof, but my garage ended up something like this:

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


We raised all the shelves on the kitchen rack! So exciting! Every air conditioner filter got vacuum cleaned, too. Then I scrubbed all the nasty from the drain of the kitchen sink. Happy New Year!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Tomarse posted:

That seems like a lot of money for timber... I

I built my garage 5 years ago. Its a bit bigger than yours. Mine is about 4.5m wide and 6.5m deep. Mine is concrete sections and has a pent roof. I achieved the slope on my roof by using gradually smaller joists from front to back (and notching some of them) - so it is 9x3 at the front reducing down to 4x2 at the back.

Having just checked, I appear to have spent £141+VAT on joists:



You might also find it easier to user metal roofing sheets than wood and felt (and its going to last longer and is less likely to leak!) It cost me £350+VAT for 4x13ft and 4x10ft box profile sheets and all the fixings. (like this stuff).
Probably more costly than wood and felt but significantly easier to fit (especially if you are DIYing it on your own in the rain)

This is not the best picture of the roof, but my garage ended up something like this:


That's a great garage! The reason it came out to that much was that I was using the same stock for joists and for rafters (the roof was pitched) - do you think I might be better off replacing it with a flat roof? Certainly if it's going to half the price of the lumber then I'm all for it. I'm learning on my feet so any advice would be great.

As for those roofing sheets, they look pretty great - I'll have to buy half a dozen sheets of chipboard to go under the felt anyway, so it's not a million miles away.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


If I remember my planning permission rules correctly you could also make it taller if it's a flat roof, depending on where on the property it is. Might be handy.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Our builder was 6'4"ish, at 5'8" I'm the tallest in our house and we have 2 small kids. This meant he saw nothing wrong with installing an on-the counter-sink in the downstairs toilet that was basically about nipple height for me. After 2+ years I've finally swapped it for a recessed basin so the kids don't need a stepladder to wash their hands any more.

Fun things to note: if I'd not been able to make the current hole in the worktop work with the new sink removing it would mean taking the door frame or tiling off first, such was the order of installation.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
I don't care how stupid the name is: I bought a 42" Manplow and it took easily under half an hour to clear my ~3500 sqft driveway of 3-4" of snow. There are more expensive models that have edge guards, deeper curves, etc., but this worked great.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Looks like what people around here use, come in plastic or metal variations:

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

His Divine Shadow posted:

Looks like what people around here use, come in plastic or metal variations:


I have one of those too. That's for a long scooping-and-dumping run. The plow-type "shovels" move a bunch of light snow like, well, a plow; the type you have there generally doesn't clear as wide of a swath but is better for heavy and wet snow, or where you're making multiple parallel runs where the plow-types leave trails on either side.

They're all a fuckton better than a regular snow shovel when you have a huge driveway.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Southern Heel posted:

That's a great garage! The reason it came out to that much was that I was using the same stock for joists and for rafters (the roof was pitched) - do you think I might be better off replacing it with a flat roof? Certainly if it's going to half the price of the lumber then I'm all for it. I'm learning on my feet so any advice would be great.

As for those roofing sheets, they look pretty great - I'll have to buy half a dozen sheets of chipboard to go under the felt anyway, so it's not a million miles away.

My garage was second hand and half of i had (the remains of) a pitched roof on it at the place i picked it up from. I put a pent one on because it was cheaper and much easier for me to DIY.

A pent roof is really minimal work and effort to build. I think it was only an easy weekend getting the joists up and then another easy weekend attaching all the sheets.

It doesn't have much pitch front to back - but it seems to be working, so it is clearly enough!. I did have to seal the single front-back joint in the sheets as the water would wick back up between the panels slightly when it rained really hard. I just used silicone sealant for this.

With those sheets you can also buy clear ones and ones with felt on the bottom to stop condensation. I have a mixture in order to get extra light in there.

Take some photos of what you are working with and we can give you some ideas. If you need any more pictures or detail on mine to provide ideas then let me know.

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea
I just bought a house with my girlfriend 6 weeks ago. I am tempted to make a new thread because i have a million questions and there are about 18 months worth of jobs to do around the place.
We have a MAJOR weed infestation in the grass everywhere. it's that sticky burr weed, no matter how much weed killer I use (it's mostly brown now) i keep seeing fresh patches of it pop up every couple of days. Is the only real option at this point bleach and re-sod? we are planning some yard work but probably not for a long time, and i'd rather fix the weed problem in advance of a year from now.
I have a couple simple plumbing and wiring jobs to do too that are new. is it considered poor form to start a year+ long thread where I solicit advice and post updates?

Our biggest changes will be the yards in general. It's on a pretty big plot of land and right now the front yard is totally open and the back is a low wire fence with zero privacy.
The interior is pretty solid, previous owners did the windows, restored the original floor & installed AC. they just didnt get round to beautifying it. perfect for us though, because we wanted a project, but not once that needed work before a basic standard of living was set up.

The very early rough plans for the back are as follows. As time goes on we'll refine this model until I know exactly how many planks and nails to buy for the fence and what the optimum spacing between the plants is.
our inside kitchen is a little small, so we really want a larger outdoor kitchen too. Is breezeblocks & sticking thin tile to them a good method? It would make it easy to integrate with the pavers.
(structure will have a roof, it's turned off to see under here)


And here's the front. current on top - but that's actually wrong as there are no pavers where the car is parked. it's lovely gravel overgrown with weeds right now. We didnt think we'd like the full privacy option but kind of dig it. need to check our setbacks and see if we are allowed to put a fence that tall there.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


cubicle gangster posted:

I just bought a house with my girlfriend 6 weeks ago. I am tempted to make a new thread because i have a million questions and there are about 18 months worth of jobs to do around the place.

cubicle gangster posted:

I have a couple simple plumbing and wiring jobs to do too that are new. is it considered poor form to start a year+ long thread where I solicit advice and post updates?

I got two letters into building the words "JUST POST" out of :justpost: smilies before I hit the limit.

Yes I would say you should do this, I believe it is highly encouraged.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I'm not a fan of parking a car behind big gates. We always left ours open and had the whole thing removed when we rebuilt.
Our old yard was vines and weeds and we had to dig the whole thing up and restart. If you have a large yard consider some sand/gravel patches.

Dick Trauma
Nov 30, 2007

God damn it, you've got to be kind.

tetrapyloctomy posted:

I have one of those too. That's for a long scooping-and-dumping run. The plow-type "shovels" move a bunch of light snow like, well, a plow; the type you have there generally doesn't clear as wide of a swath but is better for heavy and wet snow, or where you're making multiple parallel runs where the plow-types leave trails on either side.

They're all a fuckton better than a regular snow shovel when you have a huge driveway.

I once bought my father an electric snow blower and it was the best toy he ever had. He couldn't wait for it to snow, and he even got a longer cord so he could help the neighbors. It wasn't even a beast, but it was so far beyond using a drat shovel.

cubicle gangster
Jun 26, 2005

magda, make the tea

peanut posted:

I'm not a fan of parking a car behind big gates. We always left ours open and had the whole thing removed when we rebuilt.
Our old yard was vines and weeds and we had to dig the whole thing up and restart. If you have a large yard consider some sand/gravel patches.

that's fair - I was thinking the same thing for trash reasons. What we could do is just fence in the area on the left with a gate to get to the walkway on the side of the house, leaving the parking and a route for trash open. Provides much the same end result but doesnt give us issues with the car, trash & mail. I figure we'll keep refining these for a couple weeks before thinking about details.

The green patches on those are basically undesignated space - we will probably do a mix of gravel, planters and lawn in them.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Dick Trauma posted:

I once bought my father an electric snow blower and it was the best toy he ever had. He couldn't wait for it to snow, and he even got a longer cord so he could help the neighbors. It wasn't even a beast, but it was so far beyond using a drat shovel.

I have a snowblower, actually -- 28" zero-turn 243cc Craftsman with their Quiet Engine. It's pretty nice, but if I want some light snow cleared fast, using the plow plus sled shovels are the way to go. It's not worth firing up the snowblower for three or four inches of powder. Since a lot of my driveway-clearing happens when I get home from work at 6:30a, I'm sure my neighbors appreciate the lack of engine noise -- the Quiet Engine thing apparently reduces noise by 45%, but that means "no ear protection needed," not "your neighbors will love you."

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

cubicle gangster posted:


And here's the front. current on top - but that's actually wrong as there are no pavers where the car is parked. it's lovely gravel overgrown with weeds right now. We didnt think we'd like the full privacy option but kind of dig it. need to check our setbacks and see if we are allowed to put a fence that tall there.


I don't know what your neighborhood is like, but there are a few houses near me that have done this and it really starts to feel like a series a compounds-- and you lose connection with the street.

Some sort of mid option I think works better for everyone- I have a 4' or so high set of hedges that provide delineation of public/private space without totally blockading myself off from the neighborhood.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
I like open neighborhoods, but privacy fences let you swim naked (if you have a pool) or at least gently caress in the backyard, until drones get even more common anyway. A hard choice

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008
Also probably goes without saying, but check your local regulations. City of Milwaukee, for example, forbids fences taller than 4' for a "front" yard - defined as any yard that faces a street, so if you are on a corner, you have two front yards.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I just installed a prehung fiberglass exterior from my basement to garage. It was predrilled for handle and deadbolt, but the door edge wasn’t milled out for this:



Already having made 3 trips to the store, I tried to route it out with my Dremel and lovely router collar. The collar depth kept slipping, and my freehand looked like the work of a child, so I went back to Home Depot for this gadget:



It probably would have worked fine on a wood door, but it gouged big chunks out of the fiberglass. I got it all together, functional but ugly before I realized what these little rings I always have leftover in doorknob kits are:



gently caress.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Anne Whateley posted:

I like open neighborhoods, but privacy fences let you swim naked (if you have a pool) or at least gently caress in the backyard, until drones get even more common anyway. A hard choice

I've got a 7' in the back so I have a private outdoor space-- and I think that cubicle gangster's back yard (outdoor room, really) looks neat. You can have both.

alternate.eago
Jul 19, 2006
Insert randomness here.

Qwijib0 posted:

I've got a 7' in the back so I have a private outdoor space-- and I think that cubicle gangster's back yard (outdoor room, really) looks neat. You can have both.

They built townhouses so close to my property that the 10ft privacy fence I fought with the builders for a year to be put up feels like it’s not even there. Here is a pic from when I open my back door and look across my driveway.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

alternate.eago posted:

They built townhouses so close to my property that the 10ft privacy fence I fought with the builders for a year to be put up feels like it’s not even there. Here is a pic from when I open my back door and look across my driveway.

3 stories that close? that's unfortunate.

Inspector 34
Mar 9, 2009

DOES NOT RESPECT THE RUN

BUT THEY WILL
Same thing happened to a friend of mine. It's loving absurd that they can build so close to property lines in some areas. It looked like they were maybe 10-15ft back from the fence and were 3 floors high. I guess they at least have to see my buddy's awesome back yard while they have none.

Across the 4 lane road behind my house we used to have a nice big wooded area that recently got sold and turned into an apartment complex. Even that far away it feels like their windows look in on ours even with the 10ft concrete wall between our back yard and the street.

Tomarse
Mar 7, 2001

Grr



Tomarse posted:

The white bit here is old satin paint that was behind the bookshelf, the carpet is now in the bin...




I can confirm that fresh matt white paint on the walls and ceiling makes a rough wall look much better.
I've also got rid of the carpet and painted all the woodwork, and I think the overall effect of everything being clean and shiny also helps to take your attention away from the wall.

I've not painted the doors yet. That door in the back was white paint once..

I'm not going to put the bookcase back, i'll just hang a load of pictures and stuff on the lumpy wall.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Get an enormous gilt frame and say the wall is a modern art piece. :v:

alternate.eago
Jul 19, 2006
Insert randomness here.

Inspector 34 posted:

Same thing happened to a friend of mine. It's loving absurd that they can build so close to property lines in some areas. It looked like they were maybe 10-15ft back from the fence and were 3 floors high. I guess they at least have to see my buddy's awesome back yard while they have none.

Across the 4 lane road behind my house we used to have a nice big wooded area that recently got sold and turned into an apartment complex. Even that far away it feels like their windows look in on ours even with the 10ft concrete wall between our back yard and the street.

They are the bare minimum of 7ft off the property line. The fence is basically on the property line, and runs the entirety of my long skinny acre. So yeah they get to sit in their townhouses and look at my yard that they can’t use.

Edit: I almost forgot that when they did the fine grading for that development, they turned the small section of earth between the back stoops and the fence into a drainage ditch, so that’s all they have between them and the fence.

Plus side is, I think my hot tub is nude only now. Downside is no privacy fence is ever gonna give me back my privacy.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Lol the minimum setback is 50cm here, or 2 meters from the center of the street. Older houses actually went all the way to the property line and every corner was a blind corner, it was terrible for ambulances.

Hell yeah this site has a video
http://dorareko4649.blog.jp/archives/1019441991.html

Grem
Mar 29, 2004

It's how her species communicates

How high are you allowed to build your own wall? Just loving jack it up to over their windows after people move in.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
You're not the first person to have thought of that, they'll have rules against it. Even the existing 10' is usually pushing it.

Qwijib0 posted:

I've got a 7' in the back
:mmmhmm:

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Zlatan the fancy soccer guy had a wall height problem so they just dug out the whole yard to lower it a few feet *only works against street-level peeping.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Qwijib0 posted:

3 stories that close? that's unfortunate.

[ASK] me about living in a neighborhood zoned and allocated for one-story ranch homes and being surrounded by new 3-story "craftsmen" built up to the easement

One of them even ended up rebuilding the privacy fence they knocked down 6" onto our side of the property line :mad:

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Hubis posted:

One of them even ended up rebuilding the privacy fence they knocked down 6" onto our side of the property line :mad:

This gave me a full on heart flutter from the adrenaline stress reaction.

Bibendum
Sep 5, 2003
nunc est Bibendum

Seems like it would be way easier to just unload on the large street and drive the excavator do the destination. I guess maybe they are really strict on tracked vehicle permitting or insurance wouldn't cover it?

Grem
Mar 29, 2004

It's how her species communicates

Anne Whateley posted:

You're not the first person to have thought of that, they'll have rules against it. Even the existing 10' is usually pushing it.

:mmmhmm:

Yea sure a 10' high fence on my brand new 15' mound of dirt I just put in.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Grem posted:

Yea sure a 10' high fence on my brand new 15' mound of dirt I just put in.

You mean on your loose-packed earthen wall?

Grem
Mar 29, 2004

It's how her species communicates

My 30 foot tool shed

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Grem posted:

My 30 foot tool shed

Is that for 30 foot-tools like lots of garden forks and spades or 30-foot tools like really big hammers.

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Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Jaded Burnout posted:

This gave me a full on heart flutter from the adrenaline stress reaction.

Well this happened on the PO's watch -- the lawyer just pointed it out to us at closing -- so we are just kind of living with it. Based on their comments at the time, though, the POs definitely had a similar reaction as you. The neighboring lot is lower, and there's a retaining wall along the property line that the fence is built on top of. Apparently at some point it began sinking/collapsing due to the grading they were doing (or something) and they had to fight with the contractor to pay for rebuilding it and the fence, with this as the result. :sweatdrop:

It does mean that I have absolutely zero compunction about leaning ladders up against/nailing things to the fence, however. I am honestly more annoyed at the flood lights they have on their 2nd story that lights up not only their postage-stamp yard but also the backside of our house whenever a squirrel wanders through the lot.

Jaded Burnout posted:

You mean on your loose-packed earthen wall?

Just dig a moat around your house -- then you will be in international waters and can declare yourself sovereign and unencumbered by petty zoning restrictions

owned, libs :smug:

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