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I'm trying to replace my brakes for the first time. The parts holding the brake discs on are pretty rounded and I have brought replacements but whats the best way of getting these off? It is/was a torx bolt, on my Peugeot. https://imgur.com/a/SZ59D
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Dec 30, 2017 22:33
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Weather has been very cold, light snow a few days, and lots and lots of road salt. I've developed a squeak in my front end.. it makes noise over bumps and also when turning the wheel in either direction without bumps. The steering also seems to have tightened up. I'm guessing something seized. Any thoughts from the hive mind on the likely culprit? I'd suspect a ball joint or a tie rod end, but if someone has an opinion on which it would be that'd be helpful. Thanks
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Dec 31, 2017 00:12
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SPM posted:I'm trying to replace my brakes for the first time. Replacing the rotors too? Use something like a 6mm drill bit in the center of the stripped screw, and drill down the center, don't have to go very deep. Beat the rotor with a big sledge hammer and the head will fly right off and you'll be able to get the rotor off. Often, you'll be able to turn the remaining bit of screw out by hand. There's nothing like taking a wheel off to do a brake job and seeing a previously stripped out rotor screw.
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Dec 31, 2017 00:59
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Get some really good penetrant - not wd40, but better, like kroil, freeze off or pb blaster equivalent. Try and get a hammer impact screwdriver/ bit driver if you can buy a torx bit for it (not sure but if they don't come with a bit buy a impact driver that has a socket fitting rather than hex and you should be able to get a torx socket). Maybe the torx bit will work with one of them, or maybe even a flat blade bit will work?
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Dec 31, 2017 |
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Dec 31, 2017 02:42
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You can rent battery powered impact guns from Home Depot
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Dec 31, 2017 03:49
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I won't mess with that screw unless it comes out easily right away. Just hammer the rotor right off on the opposite side of the screw for the most leverage.. It snaps right off with no drilling or anything.
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Dec 31, 2017 04:17
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`Nemesis posted:You can rent battery powered impact guns from Home Depot I think the hand tool version works better for hosed screw heads as you are really hammering the driver into the head more than an air/battery impact tool could
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Dec 31, 2017 04:21
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Does he even need those screws? I thought the point of them was just to hold the rotors on the hub while the wheel was off. Seconding hand impact tool BTW. He might have to do something like get one with a 3/8" socket adapter and use the Torx bit for that.
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Dec 31, 2017 22:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:This is not "a thing". It's a keyed lock. It turns. I tried like crazy. Either I'm the weakest goon alive, I'm missing a trick, it's seized, the key was made wrong, or it's not a functional lock. I made a video of me twisting the fob to drat near the point of failure for the plastic end, I can upload if you wanted. I'm sick as hell right now and don't need to figure it out for a couple days still. I live just outside Portland Oregon, and its not freezing out most all of the time.
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Dec 31, 2017 23:11
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Pander posted:I tried like crazy. Either I'm the weakest goon alive, I'm missing a trick, it's seized, the key was made wrong, or it's not a functional lock. I made a video of me twisting the fob to drat near the point of failure for the plastic end, I can upload if you wanted. Get some penetrating oil like PB blaster and soak the lock with it, let it sit for a while. Is there one on the passenger door? Might try that one.
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Jan 1, 2018 00:08
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Enourmo posted:Get some penetrating oil like PB blaster and soak the lock with it, let it sit for a while. Only one on the driver side. Not even a trunk lock. Shoot oil inside the lock? Seems as good as anything. Is there a chance something could be in there obstructing the last mm of the key? Like lodged debris?
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Jan 1, 2018 03:15
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I doubt that, more likely the actual barrel(the metal cylinder you turn once the key/lockpins are in place) is corroded and the corrosion is holding the two pieces together. Penetrating oil helps lubricate and dislodge the gunk, which ideally should allow you to turn it.
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Jan 1, 2018 05:22
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This is just a shot in the dark, but my dad's got a Hummer SVU, I think it's a 2007 H3 or thereabouts yearwise. For no reason that we can discern it started emitting a constant rapid dinging sound while the vehicle was in motion, which stops while the vehicle is parked or idling. It's similar to the "door open" and "attach your seatbelt" sound but faster. And briefly, both turn signals came on in the console. It is extremely annoying, does anyone know what it could possibly be?
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Jan 1, 2018 07:56
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Bad earth to chassis mount somewhere is my guess, or some dying body/chassis control module/computer.
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Jan 1, 2018 08:24
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Check the parking brake and parking brake switch. GMs do the rapid DINGDINGDINGDINGDING poo poo if they think the parking brake is on and the vehicle is moving. Beyond that, the chimes are actually sounded by the factory stereo on GMs of that era (and newer), though the body control module triggers the sounds. GM already sends speed data to the factory radio, in case someone pays extra for the automatic volume control (where the volume goes up/down with speed - it's already in the stereo, it's just a flag that gets toggled at the factory or the dealer). The body control module also controls the body lighting, including turn signals. Unfortunately you can't just swap a new BCM in; it's electronically paired to the rest of the electronics, so a GM dealer or someone with a Tech2 tool would have to handle it. If you want to just get rid of the sounds, a new stereo and not using a harness that retains sounds are your best bet (you have to find a switched power source and ground when you use those adapter harnesses), but if the BCM is defective, it'll find more ways to fail as time goes on. You also can't swap another (factory) stereo in, for the same reason; you'd have to go aftermarket to keep it reasonably cheap. I'd personally try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then reconnect it, then try driving it again (basically reboot the car  ). Also check voltage at the battery while the engine is running (and maybe have someone hold the throttle around 1500-2000 RPM). If the alternator is doing weird poo poo (like cranking out 18 volts instead of ~14.4), the BCM will be very unhappy. Figure out where the body control module is as well (it's in the interior somewhere, but beyond that I have no clue), and make sure all plugs on it are secure too, maybe wiggle some of the wiring to it to see if something different happens. If it does, you've found a clue as to where wiring issues may be.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Jan 1, 2018 |
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Jan 1, 2018 09:05
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kid sinister posted:Does he even need those screws? I thought the point of them was just to hold the rotors on the hub while the wheel was off. They're not needed. They're only really there to hold the discs on during initial assembly at the factory. Once everything is together the wheel nuts/studs and the pressure of the wheel hold it in place.
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Jan 1, 2018 11:28
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I had my windshield replaced a while back, and whatever rearview mirror glue they used lasted about two years. I went to the AutoZone and got the Permatex kit, but that lasted me about three months before the mirror fell off. Any glue recommendations?
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Jan 2, 2018 00:39
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Get the same rear view adhesive kit; except this time, be sure to scrape all residue off of the windshield & the mirror lug with a razor blade, wipe down both surfaces with alcohol, make sure your work area is over 65-degrees F and then glue it on again, being sure not to touch either of the mating surfaces with your greasy fingats.
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Jan 2, 2018 06:35
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My daily driver (2013 Fiat Panda with a Panoramic roof/sunroof) is always full of condensation on the inside of the windscreen and roof. Is there anything I can do to try and prevent this? Does stuff like Rain-X actually work? I've only had the car since June and the condensation only started being noticeable in November. During the same month I also had my windscreen replaced and lost use of my covered parking space - but I cant find any obvious wet patches inside that would indicate a leak and it doesn't use any coolant.
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Jan 2, 2018 12:17
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Rain-X, at least in the US, sells an anti-fog coating that works quite well. Otherwise, does the car have AC? If it does, is there a way to enable the AC in any mode? Most cars enable it in defrost.
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Jan 2, 2018 12:20
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Rain-X, at least in the US, sells an anti-fog coating that works quite well. I've been turning the AC on everytime I use the car in order to try and clear it, and setting all the knobs to what is marked as defrost (including max on the temp knob)
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Jan 2, 2018 12:41
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Tomarse posted:My daily driver (2013 Fiat Panda with a Panoramic roof/sunroof) is always full of condensation on the inside of the windscreen and roof. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pingi-Dehu...isture+absorber Car dehumidifier bag. Can be recharged by leaving in the oven for a while. Might suck out enough moisture to keep the inside clear (relative recommended this to me, though I haven't fully tested my bag yet in the winter weather)
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Jan 2, 2018 13:10
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spog posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pingi-Dehu...isture+absorber Nice idea! but it appears that you can only 'recharge' it properly in a microwave and not in a normal oven (so says their FAQ). I don't have a microwave.
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Jan 2, 2018 13:51
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Tomarse posted:Nice idea! but it appears that you can only 'recharge' it properly in a microwave and not in a normal oven (so says their FAQ). I don't have a microwave. Okay, that's not how mine works, but I've lost the box and it was a gift so I don't know were you can get them from. Mine is a 1kg cushion and you recharge it by either putting it in a surprisingly hot oven for 20mins or on a radiator overnight. Mine looks a bit like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-Dr...l0AAOSwytJaAFJI I haven't done full testing, but it definitely gets heavier, so it must be taking in some water.
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Jan 2, 2018 14:08
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If I wanted to change the gears in a Dana 30 from 4.10 to 4.88 what all do I need to purchase? Will just the R&P be enough or do I need a new carrier and other sundries?
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Jan 2, 2018 14:34
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Some jerk scraped up against my mirror on Saturday and ran. Looks like they lost paint on me rather than vice versa. What can I use to clean off paint that won’t damage my own? I got this thing last Tuesday too.
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Jan 2, 2018 18:54
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Karma Comedian posted:If I wanted to change the gears in a Dana 30 from 4.10 to 4.88 what all do I need to purchase? Will just the R&P be enough or do I need a new carrier and other sundries?
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Jan 2, 2018 19:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Some jerk scraped up against my mirror on Saturday and ran. Looks like they lost paint on me rather than vice versa. What can I use to clean off paint that won’t damage my own? This is exactly what claybar is made for.
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Jan 2, 2018 19:09
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PainterofCrap posted:Get the same rear view adhesive kit; except this time, be sure to scrape all residue off of the windshield & the mirror lug with a razor blade, wipe down both surfaces with alcohol, make sure your work area is over 65-degrees F and then glue it on again, being sure not to touch either of the mating surfaces with your greasy fingats. The windshield has that black frit stuff at the mirror attachment point. The same glue is fine? The first time it fell off, there was some kind of pad, maybe like a peel and stick, on the metal piece that attached to the windshield. I removed that and attached the metal directly to the windshield last time. It seems like some kind of intermediary layer to mitigate the differences in heat expansion and contraction between the windshield and the metal would be a good idea, but I do not understand how these things work exactly.
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Jan 2, 2018 19:24
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Oh, this is marvelous. I noticed my MIL's coolant was low the other day and filled it up yesterday evening before leaving for a bit. Right up to the full line on the recovery tank. No wonder her sister had been putting water in the drat thing for months. Water is a hell of a lot cheaper than the antifreeze that's leaking God-knows-where. Went out this morning and checked to be sure - the recovery tank was dry as a bone.  It's a miracle this loving thing hasn't overheated.Just to reconfirm: the cooling system is closed and pressurized, the only way that sort of thing could happen is a leak somewhere? I'm talking about a pint to a quart of fluid in ~6 hours.
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Jan 2, 2018 19:36
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D34THROW posted:Oh, this is marvelous. I noticed my MIL's coolant was low the other day and filled it up yesterday evening before leaving for a bit. Right up to the full line on the recovery tank. Either a big leak, or a really bad head gasket leak. Check the oil and do a compression test.
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Jan 2, 2018 19:39
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Krakkles posted:You're already above the carrier break, but I would definitely do bearings while you're in there as well, though, and probably look at a master install kit. You'll need to do the whole gear spacing/shims thing when doing this, as far as I'm aware. I was considering new bearings as well, but if I didn't want to do anything except the barest minimum then r&p is all I need right?
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Jan 2, 2018 20:12
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Karma Comedian posted:I was considering new bearings as well, but if I didn't want to do anything except the barest minimum then r&p is all I need right? If you're close with your god, go for it. The new gears are probably going to be a little different than the current set. You'll want to run some patterns to make sure they're meshing right. If you have to adjust that at all, you're going to need some shims. Install kits will come with those shims. You might be able to find different packages that include bearings and some that don't. I say spend the money and buy an install kit.
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Jan 2, 2018 20:50
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sharkytm posted:Either a big leak, or a really bad head gasket leak. Check the oil and do a compression test. Yup, that's a significant leak. The tricky thing with coolant leaks is sometimes they don't show up when the system isn't pressurized, so you might need to get it hot and running and then go looking for it. When the radiator in my Ranger cracked, you could only see the leak while it was running. You can also look for the traces of dried coolant, though if it's had nothing but water in it, that will be harder. Antifreeze will leave some sort of colored trail when it dries. Except for the Zerex G05, that leaves the barest whiff of white spots. 
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Jan 2, 2018 20:52
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I, uh, ran out of gas. I'm not sure how: I've had this '17 subaru outback 2.5L since new to present-day, 33000 miles. With the fuel gauge reading over 1/8 tank, ~80 miles fuel range, & no low-fuel warning, it died on the interstate on a long, slight descending grade & it wouldn't restart. I put 16 total gallons in it (manual says 18.5 gal capacity) to fill up afterwards. Based on experience with this car, we should have been able to drive at least another 50 miles comfortably. We've stopped for fuel before and put anywhere from 17-18 gallons in after ~460 miles on the tank. Should I go looking for problems in the fuel tank (contamination) or filters (water/contamination)? Any thing else I should consider?
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Jan 2, 2018 21:32
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Geoj posted:This is exactly what claybar is made for. I will swear by 3M’s buffing compound until I die.
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Jan 2, 2018 21:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:snip What gets me is the absolute nothing under the vehicle. The only puddles I've seen, even since adding antifreeze to the recovery tank, are in the morning from condensation dripping off. Nothing green. sharkytm posted:Either a big leak, or a really bad head gasket leak. Check the oil and do a compression test. I guess it's time to get it into a mechanic then, since my MIL won't let me anywhere near anything like a compression test. Wouldn't be such a big deal if her vehicle wasn't the only working one right now. Separate but related - '10 Chevy Traverse, what are the odds that driving at a redlined temp gauge for maybe ~15 total damaged the head gasket?
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Jan 2, 2018 21:49
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nine16thsdago posted:I, uh, ran out of gas. I'm not sure how: I've had this '17 subaru outback 2.5L since new to present-day, 33000 miles. With the fuel gauge reading over 1/8 tank, ~80 miles fuel range, & no low-fuel warning, it died on the interstate on a long, slight descending grade & it wouldn't restart. I put 16 total gallons in it (manual says 18.5 gal capacity) to fill up afterwards. Might just be that the pump pickup is towards the rear of the tank, and the downhill grade made the fuel slosh to the front such that the pump ran dry. If the car sounds like it's running fine I wouldn't worry about it. E: Long-term it's a good idea to keep the tank well above empty anyway, the pump is cooled by fuel so having less of it can make the pump run warmer and reduce its lifetime. I try to fill up around 1/4 tank.
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Jan 2, 2018 22:09
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Anybody remember what happened to Cars & Parts Magazine? My dad had a subscription to it back in the early to mid 90s. It was a mag, that was just old restored antiques and survivors. No hot rods, resto mods (that I remember) or any of that. Just straight up old cars. I guess its probably not published anymore, but anyone remember when they stopped? Why they stopped etc?
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Jan 3, 2018 00:00
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D34THROW posted:Separate but related - '10 Chevy Traverse, what are the odds that driving at a redlined temp gauge for maybe ~15 total damaged the head gasket? The odds aren't in your favor. It's supposed to be a pretty solid engine (3.6 LLT), but it's an all aluminum motor - being run hot for that long may warp not only the heads, but the block itself (and some googling has confirmed that this happens when they run hot). Compression test will tell a bit, so will checking the coolant for exhaust gases. How's the oil look?
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Jan 3, 2018 00:04
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