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PainterofCrap posted:Short term: Cut a piece of 1" rigid foam board & wedge it carefully in the hole. This is perfect, thank you very much!
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Jan 1, 2018 22:40
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Putting in a new sink and vanity tomorrow. Thoughts on plumbers putty vs silicone for sealing the drain?
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Jan 2, 2018 06:30
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vulturesrow posted:Putting in a new sink and vanity tomorrow. Thoughts on plumbers putty vs silicone for sealing the drain? Putty will be easier if you ever have to remove the drain for some reason.
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Jan 2, 2018 06:33
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It's not something I really plan to do but what is the likelihood that I would have to?
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Jan 2, 2018 06:41
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vulturesrow posted:It's not something I really plan to do but what is the likelihood that I would have to? Personally, I've used both silicon and plumbers putty, and have noticed no difference in ease or effectiveness. My standard of deciding which I'm going to use is "which one do I have on hand".
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Jan 2, 2018 14:27
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vulturesrow posted:It's not something I really plan to do but what is the likelihood that I would have to? There's always a chance you don't have the basket screwed tightly enough, so it leaks later on even with silicone or putty. Or you add a disposal. Or this, or that. Putty always is my vote. edit- also cleaning up cured silicone is hella messier
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Jan 2, 2018 18:03
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The plumbers putty I have says not to use it for sink drains with plastic pieces but I used it anyway.
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Jan 2, 2018 18:09
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vulturesrow posted:Putting in a new sink and vanity tomorrow. Thoughts on plumbers putty vs silicone for sealing the drain? If it's a plastic drain, use silicone. Plastic drains can't be screwed down tightly enough with plumber's putty. The nut will jump threads before the putty squeezes out, so you can't tighten in the drain all the way. Plastic drains like that will work for 7-8 years, until the nut fails anyway because of the lovely plastic.
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Jan 2, 2018 20:22
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kid sinister posted:If it's a plastic drain, use silicone. Plastic drains can't be screwed down tightly enough with plumber's putty. The nut will jump threads before the putty squeezes out, so you can't tighten in the drain all the way. Plastic drains like that will work for 7-8 years, until the nut fails anyway because of the lovely plastic. Speaking of that, what the hell is up with using lovely plastic traps under sinks these days? Even professional plumbers install them rather than tried and true glued PVC. I call a plumber to have it done right, not to do something I could do with $9 in parts from Lowes. The worst part is after a few years the weight of the water sitting in the trap pulls the fittings apart causing the sink to drain into the cabinet.
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Jan 2, 2018 21:38
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I don't want my trap glued on, I want a compression fitting I can easily take off to clear it if necessary.
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Jan 2, 2018 22:07
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I don't want my trap glued on, I want a compression fitting I can easily take off to clear it if necessary. Glued on traps, fake biceps, walkaround butt, what's next FOR GODS SAKE?!?
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Jan 2, 2018 22:15
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Exposed roofing nails in the attic: snip 'em, bend 'em, jam corks over 'em, __________? Option one I guess is do nothing, but it's a walk-up attic and I've got a curious little kid; I've told him "don't go in there" but walking into a nail seems a pretty harsh punishment for noncompliance. Hell I was joking about the corks but I can get 100 for $14, that honestly seems like the easiest way to do this. jackpot fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 2, 2018 |
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Jan 2, 2018 22:26
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When my house was being remodeled, my contractor and/or electrician decided to install the (8) exterior lights directly on the siding as seen below. This looks pretty lazy/sloppy, so I want to find some plates that fit the contour of the siding to mount behind the lights. They only had one type at Menards and it didn't fit my siding. I assume I can probably order the proper plates if I can figure out what type of siding is on my house. Unfortunately, I don't have any extra/scrap pieces of siding, so am I going to need to take off a piece to find some identifying info on the backside? I don't know how to take off siding and it's too drat cold outside right now, so I hope that's not the case.
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Jan 2, 2018 22:59
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:I don't want my trap glued on, I want a compression fitting I can easily take off to clear it if necessary. That's what clean-outs are for.  I can understand not wanting a trap permanently attached, but there should be a middle ground somewhere between gluing the crap out of it and having it fall off at some random point in the future when the seal decides that gravity won the fight.
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Jan 2, 2018 23:10
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PremiumSupport posted:That's what clean-outs are for. Do the screw on ones actually just fall off and randomly fail? I can't think of a time I've ever seen that happen. I can't imagine the pain in the rear end having one glued on would cause the one time you need to unclog your sink. How does a cleanout solve this? You push the gunk through the p-trap to your nearest cleanout?
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Jan 2, 2018 23:18
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Mr Executive posted:When my house was being remodeled, my contractor and/or electrician decided to install the (8) exterior lights directly on the siding as seen below. This looks pretty lazy/sloppy, so I want to find some plates that fit the contour of the siding to mount behind the lights. They only had one type at Menards and it didn't fit my siding. I assume I can probably order the proper plates if I can figure out what type of siding is on my house. Unfortunately, I don't have any extra/scrap pieces of siding, so am I going to need to take off a piece to find some identifying info on the backside? I don't know how to take off siding and it's too drat cold outside right now, so I hope that's not the case. I used these on my garage when I was installing some exterior lighting. They sit right on top the siding and are available in a few different profiles. Also doubles as a listed box to make electrical connections in. Look great and are also paintable if so desired. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W6ZOCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jan 2, 2018 23:25
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stevewm posted:I used these on my garage when I was installing some exterior lighting. They sit right on top the siding and are available in a few different profiles. Also doubles as a listed box to make electrical connections in. Look great and are also paintable if so desired. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. It looks like I have "dutch lap" siding. The particular blocks you linked to won't work, but it looks like there's lots of other options on Amazon and Menards/etc... I suppose I have to measure the depth of the lap or whatever, but I should be able to find something that will work.
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Jan 2, 2018 23:47
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H110Hawk posted:Do the screw on ones actually just fall off and randomly fail? I can't think of a time I've ever seen that happen. I can't imagine the pain in the rear end having one glued on would cause the one time you need to unclog your sink. How does a cleanout solve this? You push the gunk through the p-trap to your nearest cleanout? I've had it happen when the plastic wedge gasket gets worn out. At work there's a common kitchen for the whole building where the trap has been removed a lot over the years. That trap straight-up fell off the horizontal side when we had a clog last month and someone tried to clear it with the garbage disposal. (They tried for like 2 minutes too, which put a lot of nasty drain-water under the raised floor that my apprentice and I got to wet-vac up. It was wonderful.) The plastic edge was chunky and rough from having been tightened down many times.
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Jan 2, 2018 23:51
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H110Hawk posted:Do the screw on ones actually just fall off and randomly fail? I can't think of a time I've ever seen that happen. I can't imagine the pain in the rear end having one glued on would cause the one time you need to unclog your sink. How does a cleanout solve this? You push the gunk through the p-trap to your nearest cleanout? glynnenstein posted:I've had it happen when the plastic wedge gasket gets worn out. At work there's a common kitchen for the whole building where the trap has been removed a lot over the years. That trap straight-up fell off the horizontal side when we had a clog last month and someone tried to clear it with the garbage disposal. (They tried for like 2 minutes too, which put a lot of nasty drain-water under the raised floor that my apprentice and I got to wet-vac up. It was wonderful.) The plastic edge was chunky and rough from having been tightened down many times. This. It happened in both my house and my mother's house a couple months apart. The plastic ring gasket wears out and can no longer hold the pipe up against gravity pulling down on the water in the trap. The fitting slides down the pipe that extends vertically from the sink until the connection is broken and water flows out of the pipes. If you don't open your cupboard regularly (who does, the plumbing is in the way so you can't really store anything down there) it can go on for days or weeks before being noticed. e: It doesn't even have to be from repeated removals. In both cases I've been involved in the plumbing hadn't been touched in years. The plastic just aged and failed. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 3, 2018 00:04
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Fair enough. Thankfully we open the sink cabinet several times a week as all the cleaning supplies and trash bags are under there. The bathroom sink on the other hand is hidden behind drawers.
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Jan 3, 2018 00:56
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Does anyone know what this cap on the top of a heat pump is called? It's a plastic cap that snaps into place. Unfortunately, one of the tabs on mine has broken and now it rattles loudly. I'm sure I could replace it easily if I knew what it was called so I could google it.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:14
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McCracAttack posted:Does anyone know what this cap on the top of a heat pump is called? It's purely cosmetic so take it off and throw it away. Alternatively, put some tape or caulk or glue or wire or literally anything on it to stop it rattling for the moment then forget about it for three years.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:34
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McCracAttack posted:Does anyone know what this cap on the top of a heat pump is called? Heat pump cap? https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a38b371c11/Trane-Heat-Pump-Cap-Lid-Cover-Parts
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Jan 3, 2018 03:36
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Heat pump cap? https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a38b371c11/Trane-Heat-Pump-Cap-Lid-Cover-Parts babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's purely cosmetic so take it off and throw it away. Alternatively, put some tape or caulk or glue or wire or literally anything on it to stop it rattling for the moment then forget about it for three years.
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Jan 3, 2018 03:50
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McCracAttack posted:The nuts that hold the fan motor on are under there so I guess it's supposed to protect them from rusting or something. Did you notice how it's not weather sealed on the bottom? babyeatingpsychopath was right, they're entirely cosmetic.
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Jan 3, 2018 04:27
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I have a question... maybe it's just because it's loving cold outside and I'm afraid of making poo poo worse, but I'm finding myself overly hand-wringy about replacing the weatherstripping on our front door. (I can feel cold drafts...) It's a 1942 house. The door has a lip of wood, facing inward) that has a brassy metal lip/flashing nailed to it. So you kind of close the door INTO the lip. It's janky and not doing a very good job. It's also gapped near the lock set so air pours in there. I'm going to pry out the nailed in flashing. And then ideally put something back on OVER the same area (which I imagine would look a little tore up given my previous nail-prying.) I guess I just need to feel a little more confident about what I want to buy at Home Depot to put up. Adhesive foam/rubber type Some kind of nail-in type... etc? 
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Jan 3, 2018 18:47
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Feenix posted:I have a question... maybe it's just because it's loving cold outside and I'm afraid of making poo poo worse, but I'm finding myself overly hand-wringy about replacing the weatherstripping on our front door. (I can feel cold drafts...) There's an aluminum strip with a rubber seal. Tiny tacks every foot or so. Go with that. Tack it flush to the shut door, even if the door is ajar some. Take some snips to cut to length, and for bonus points, slightly angle the top jamb pieces to snug to the header.
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Jan 3, 2018 19:13
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Mr. Mambold posted:There's an aluminum strip with a rubber seal. Tiny tacks every foot or so. Go with that. Tack it flush to the shut door, even if the door is ajar some. Take some snips to cut to length, and for bonus points, slightly angle the top jamb pieces to snug to the header.
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Jan 3, 2018 19:29
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Feenix posted:I have a question... maybe it's just because it's loving cold outside and I'm afraid of making poo poo worse, but I'm finding myself overly hand-wringy about replacing the weatherstripping on our front door. (I can feel cold drafts...) The door has a lip, or the frame does? If it's on the frame, that's the stop. What's that dark gray strip all the way in the corner that's all tore up? Try pulling it toward the outside . Is it mounted in a little slot on the stop that it just presses into? If so, that little slot is called a "kerf" and you can buy kerf mounted weatherstripping. If it's not kerf mounted, then just get the stick on kind of weatherstripping. You stick the top and latch strips to the edge of the stop facing the door, then for the hinge side of the door, you stick it in the stop-jamb corner but on the jamb so it's facing the door. Weather sealing the door bottom is a little different. There's different kinds depending your threshold and the gap between. Some thresholds have 2 little slots that you stick a strip of rubber in to make an arch against the bottom of the door. There's also weatherstripping that can mount on the bottom of your door. Some are metal with a plastic insert, or are one big piece of plastic. There are also sweeps that mount to the back of the door on the bottom. Overall, it can be a real pain to get weatherstripping that can seal your older door, while still allowing it to close both easily and completely.
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Jan 3, 2018 20:22
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I've got a vented crawlspace under 1/4 of my house and I've been considering sealing it up and converting it to conditioned space... now moreso than ever as mice have found their way in and have completely hosed the insulation under the floor, resulting in a very chilly living room. Is this a dumb idea? If not, what type of insulation should I use to cover the walls? I've seen lots of recommendations for rigid foam or spray foam but I don't want to install drywall. Is fiberglass batting my only option?
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Jan 3, 2018 20:26
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Feenix posted:I think I saw this in a video and he was doing it on the perpendicular part of the door... outside... is that what you are saying? Not where my existing flashing is? Yeah. Weatherstrip sort of evolved from the foldy copper stuff you probably have that sat inside the space between the door and jamb to the tack-up outside stuff. Then kerf cut jamb-up maybe 20-30 years ago like kid sinister is talking about. If you don't have the modern kerfed jamb, forget that.
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Jan 3, 2018 20:51
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Yeah I have that brass flashing nailed in. I found some rubber teardrop-shaped adhesive. Gonna pry off the old and get that new one in. After that, sweep and threshold.  thanks guys!
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Jan 3, 2018 21:23
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The stuff I got has kind of ambiguous instructions, but logic tells me that the bubble portion of the teardrop shape should be towards the outdoors facing edge of the door stop, right? Wall / Door Frame / Door Stop / Skinny side / Fat Side / Mother Nature ie: The fat bottom of the teardrop pointed into the door's open space vs pointed into the door frame. Yes?
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Jan 3, 2018 22:06
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Pre-hung interior doors going into my basement. Do I install them before flooring, or after? edit: google says “after.” I guess that makes sense. I’ll just have to factor in underlayment when framing, and I’ll have door stored in the garage for a few months to take advantage of the door sale at Menards. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jan 3, 2018 |
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Jan 3, 2018 22:31
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Hi, is there a way to un-"frost" glass, or basically fill in or buff out thousands of very shallow scratches? There's a sliding glass door in my house damaged from previous owners whom I guess had a dog that would scratch at it frequently to get in. I've read that toothpaste could buff it out, and i tried that on one spot but I couldn't notice any improvement.
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Jan 4, 2018 00:06
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Feenix posted:The stuff I got has kind of ambiguous instructions, but logic tells me that the bubble portion of the teardrop shape should be towards the outdoors facing edge of the door stop, right? What. Sounds backwards. Draw or take a picture, please, you dont' want to install it wrong.
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Jan 4, 2018 00:22
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PainterofCrap posted:Is it an overhead sectional (assume so) Yes Metal, yes pebbled Yes, paneled No windows Yes, also it's insulated and even has a newish opener 
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Jan 4, 2018 00:54
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Mr. Mambold posted:What. Sounds backwards. Draw or take a picture, please, you dont' want to install it wrong.  Here is a crude drawing. I may have just been being too wordy. GRay is doorframe. Red is door "stop" (lip in frame) Black line is the rubber teardrop shaped liner/stripping. Teardrops are indicating which way the fat end is pointed. Towards the great outdoors. Tree is tree.
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Jan 4, 2018 01:08
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That drawing is terrible. How about a picture?
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Jan 4, 2018 01:59
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kid sinister posted:That drawing is terrible. How about a picture? The drawing is amazing. Don't be jealous. :p I will get a picture, but it's not going to do much good. It just looks like a black strip and detail is hard to discern. All I was asking is if the rubber strip (which is tubular, but teardrop shaped, should have the round part facing the... actually I just realized I sorta have a picture... I put it up so it's kinda moot now. Just wanted to make sure...  What you are looking at, is the fat part of the rubber teardrop. Facing "inward" into the door's negative space. The skinny part of the strip (the point of the teardrop) is facing the kerf. Is that right orientation?
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Jan 4, 2018 02:46
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