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Yeah a face painting tutorial I read recommended starting with the eyes, and putting a varnish over them to ensure they'll be okay as you do the rest. The thought of doing mid-paint varnishing to protect seemed like a great idea.
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Jan 9, 2018 07:09
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Finished the first redone escort for my Eldar fleet. I decided to keep the under-hull black rather than drybrush grey on it (because I thought it looked unclean).
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Jan 9, 2018 07:32
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Through an airbrush I found Vallejo matte varnish to be my favourite, and liquitex gloss in the orange label. I think you should definitely seal plastic models, skin oils and handling really wear down on thin acrylic coats. e: not to mention a final matte varnish can improve the finish as some acrylic paints can appear quite glossy. ijyt fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Jan 9, 2018 |
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Jan 9, 2018 09:14
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Has anybody here got experience with Minitaire Ghost Tints or candy coating? Both these minis were airbrushed with metallics and then a ghost tint layer applied  This guy seems to have the effect I want, but when I tried the purple...  It looks like this, which has pretty much inked it. Is this just a case of applying too much, or does it need to be thinned more with multiple passes? What's a good thinning ratio? Edit: for some reason my host seems to randomly rotate JPGs when using timg. If you view the image normally they appear the right way up 
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Jan 9, 2018 12:10
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I think it's a matter of too much being applied. I've used ghost tint several times and it's never looked like that, especially the purple. I find that one pass is usually good enough. Don't overdo it. Keep it light, possibly holding the airbrush further away than you'd usually do.
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Jan 9, 2018 15:11
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glitchkrieg posted:Has anybody here got experience with Minitaire Ghost Tints or candy coating? I also had very different results between magenta and purple. the magenta worked great (but the color wasn't what I wanted) and the purple came out runny in spots and too thick in others.
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Jan 9, 2018 16:09
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Xxx-post from the 30k threadHixson posted:I don't think I posted my beautiful full bodied haired Ahriman on SA before
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Jan 9, 2018 17:44
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Don't clearcoat, it's not really necessary when you don't have metal models anymore. the wrongest take Anyone have a good recipe using GW paints for plasma coils? I'm aiming for the teal to white that the studio uses.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:08
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The Sex Cannon posted:Anyone have a good recipe using GW paints for plasma coils? I'm aiming for the teal to white that the studio uses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpSVZiYLuPY
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Jan 9, 2018 18:33
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Slimnoid posted:I think it's a matter of too much being applied. I've used ghost tint several times and it's never looked like that, especially the purple. Did you thin at all?
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Jan 9, 2018 18:45
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What do y'all use for cleaning your airbrush after use/between colors?
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Jan 9, 2018 18:47
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Airbrush cleaner or 50/50 water/ammonia free glass cleaner in a condiment squeeze bottle. I use both and don't notice much difference, but there are camps on both side.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:55
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Good looking out, dude.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:55
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mango sentinel posted:What do y'all use for cleaning your airbrush after use/between colors? Between colors? I just run water through it and wipe out the cup with a paper towel. If I'm going from dark to light and there's still some stubborn paint I'll run some airbrush cleaner through it.
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Jan 9, 2018 18:55
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glitchkrieg posted:Did you thin at all? Not at all. I wouldn't really know what to thin it with anyway, so I just run it straight through the airbrush. Admittedly though, Badger's quality control on ghost tint can be a bit spotty. I have two bottles of their oil discharge and they come off looking very different. That might've been because it was around the initial launch of their painting brand that I got them, but I'm not the only one who's had issues with their paints.
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Jan 9, 2018 21:45
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Their first release of their minitaire paints was notoriously awful in terms of quality control. They've supposedly improved a lot since then.
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Jan 9, 2018 22:01
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mango sentinel posted:What do y'all use for cleaning your airbrush after use/between colors? windex, followed by water
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Jan 9, 2018 22:03
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X-Post Finished up one Shining Spear - I wanted to do a much more intricate pattern on the canopy, but it turned out to be really complicated with the blending (grey doesn't blend well) and so I went with a mini sun-burst pattern.   
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Jan 9, 2018 22:35
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I'm about to start painting for the first time in like 10 years and I've been reading up a bit on some stuff, so I've got a quick and probably dumb question about zenithal priming: Most of the tutorials I'm seeing follow up the black / grey / white steps by spraying on a basecoat color, but what if I'm working with a mini that doesn't really have one central color to use as a base? Can I use a brush to apply thin basecoats in different colors to each part of the model and get roughly the same effect, or is zenithal priming just not an ideal choice for something like that?
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Jan 9, 2018 22:45
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Most models have multiple colors and you have two ways to get around that: 1) Do a single basecolor over the entire model and then block out the rest using a brush 2) Spray a basecolor over your secondary colors first, then mask them off, and do your basecolor
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Jan 9, 2018 23:32
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BULBASAUR posted:Most models have multiple colors and you have two ways to get around that: 3) Physically separate the model into pieces, paint them individually, and then glue them together afterwards.
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Jan 9, 2018 23:37
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I'm about to start painting for the first time in like 10 years and I've been reading up a bit on some stuff, so I've got a quick and probably dumb question about zenithal priming: If you a big primary color that covers most of the model, it can help, especially if you can zenithal that as well (adding in a shadow and highlight color to the process). However, it's not necessary. Once you have the initial greyscale zenithal done, you can brush on light coats with a brush.
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Jan 10, 2018 00:05
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:3) Physically separate the model into pieces, paint them individually, and then glue them together afterwards. 4) Keep your models in shrink wrapped boxes as you click buy on the shiny new release.
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Jan 10, 2018 00:09
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ijyt posted:4) Keep your models in shrink wrapped boxes as you click buy on the shiny new release. this cuts way too deep
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Jan 10, 2018 00:24
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ijyt posted:4) Keep your models in shrink wrapped boxes as you click buy on the shiny new release. 5) Get out of the hobby while still having hundreds of dollars worth of unpainted miniatures, immediately start new army when you get back in.
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Jan 10, 2018 01:36
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:5) Get out of the hobby while still having hundreds of dollars worth of unpainted miniatures, immediately start new army when you get back in. 6) Start another painting and modeling progress thread when one already exists in the same sub forum i still love u bae BULBASAUR fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 10, 2018 |
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Jan 10, 2018 02:27
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Another question: is there a place to buy Scale 75 paints that doesn't have crazy shipping costs to the US? The last time I painted I was using Vallejo stuff but I wasn't a huge fan of the way it thinned with just water. I've heard Scale 75 is the new hot thing so I wanted to try them out, but that seems to be like the only paint range that the War Store doesn't sell. I've heard their metallics are especially great, which has always been a huge pain in the rear end for me.
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Jan 10, 2018 02:49
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Another question: is there a place to buy Scale 75 paints that doesn't have crazy shipping costs to the US? The last time I painted I was using Vallejo stuff but I wasn't a huge fan of the way it thinned with just water. I've heard Scale 75 is the new hot thing so I wanted to try them out, but that seems to be like the only paint range that the War Store doesn't sell. Yes, https://scale75usa.myshopify.com/. Shipping can still take a bit if it needs to get shipped from spain first, but shipping costs seem reasonable.
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Jan 10, 2018 02:59
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Noble Knight also stocks most of the range.
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Jan 10, 2018 05:08
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Another question: is there a place to buy Scale 75 paints that doesn't have crazy shipping costs to the US? The last time I painted I was using Vallejo stuff but I wasn't a huge fan of the way it thinned with just water. I've heard Scale 75 is the new hot thing so I wanted to try them out, but that seems to be like the only paint range that the War Store doesn't sell. I've been using greenstuffworld
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Jan 10, 2018 06:41
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BULBASAUR posted:6) Start another painting and modeling progress thread when one already exists in the same sub forum 7) Start keeping track of your painting in the hopes of staying motivated, only to discover that you take over three hours to paint a single Space Marine. I love you back.
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Jan 10, 2018 06:44
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:3) Physically separate the model into pieces, paint them individually, and then glue them together afterwards. I've been doing this for my Black Templars. I keep the shoulder pads separate and put down a base of white, and the rest of the marine I base in black. Because gently caress painting white over a black base.
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Jan 10, 2018 10:36
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:only to discover that you take over three hours to paint a single Space Marine. Pff, speedpainters.
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Jan 10, 2018 11:01
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Floppychop posted:I've been doing this for my Black Templars. Celestra Grey then Ulthuan Grey holla
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Jan 10, 2018 15:27
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:5) Get out of the hobby while still having hundreds of dollars worth of unpainted miniatures, immediately start new army when you get back in. This is a very real problem. Been buying Ork stuff since I got back in which was my #1 love before, now and forever, but I did an inventory on unbuilt and unpainted stuff yesterday and oooh boy. That sure is an unassailable mountain I've got going there. Its stored in 7 different containers. Solution? Bought some Death Guard, wont be buying more until I'm near finished painting them. (And thus the cycle begins anew)
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Jan 10, 2018 16:01
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How close is Army Painter Dragon Red to GW Mephiston Red? I need to buy probably 2 or 3 cans for my Eldar & Bloodbound, but I don't want to pay GW prices.
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Jan 10, 2018 17:52
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Zuul the Cat posted:How close is Army Painter Dragon Red to GW Mephiston Red? The shade is very noticeably different and the finish looks quite a bit different than the GW sprays as well. I want to say it's brighter but it's been a while since I've used it.
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Jan 10, 2018 17:57
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Zuul the Cat posted:How close is Army Painter Dragon Red to GW Mephiston Red? I have a model primed with dragon red, i can slap some mephiston on part of it tonight and see how it compares. Pure red as basically the same as evil sunz scarlet, but no idea about dragon red.
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Jan 10, 2018 19:06
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Miles O'Brian posted:This is a very real problem. Been buying Ork stuff since I got back in which was my #1 love before, now and forever, but I did an inventory on unbuilt and unpainted stuff yesterday and oooh boy. That sure is an unassailable mountain I've got going there. Its stored in 7 different containers. The secret is to put it all in a box and never look at it.
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Jan 10, 2018 20:39
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People were asking about doing shiny metallics way earlier in the thread and I suggested the Molotow chrome pen. Well I've found a much more durable solution. AK True Metal wax Skip to about 10 minutes in for the polish process on their steel color. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPNGFAgWmGU It looks like the more work you're willing to put into the polish, the shinier the result. I'm not sure how the thinner will react to plastics, but it looks just fine on the parts used in the video. Just thought this might be of some use to someone.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:15
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