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cakesmith handyman posted:Absolutely, the bolt on the right looks good. The only problem with using those bolts is that they are really intended to mount it. I'd probably drill a new hole in the back, sand some of the surrounding housing bare on the inside, and add a bolt there. Edit: I'll also have to check if neutral is already tied to the housing once I have it to inspect in person. armorer fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 23:21
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armorer posted:I could probably ask this in the electronics thread, but I figure it's simple enough to ask here as well. I'm putting a new cord on this old stage light for a friend: First you need to find out if the entire thing is already grounded to neutral. That bracket that the socket is mounted to looks funny. Is the entire socket connected via metal to the neutral screw? On regular Edison bulb sockets, the outside screw ring is connected to neutral. What kind of bulbs does that thing take? Also, figure out some sort of cord clamp or relief.
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Jan 13, 2018 05:04
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kid sinister posted:First you need to find out if the entire thing is already grounded to neutral. That bracket that the socket is mounted to looks funny. Is the entire socket connected via metal to the neutral screw? On regular Edison bulb sockets, the outside screw ring is connected to neutral. What kind of bulbs does that thing take? I don't actually have it yet, that's a photo my friend provided. I will check if neutral is already tied to the case though. I don't know what the bulb is at this point either.
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Jan 13, 2018 07:48
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Bought a lovely table at Costco, which is offgassing pretty grossly since unpacking last night. Got 2 huge shop fans and 2 small oscillating fans and the windows open. Suck air in or blow air out?
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Jan 13, 2018 18:36
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canyoneer posted:Bought a lovely table at Costco, which is offgassing pretty grossly since unpacking last night. Got 2 huge shop fans and 2 small oscillating fans and the windows open. Suck air in or blow air out?
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Jan 13, 2018 18:38
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How can I clean out these cracks between the glass and wood on my table? As far as I can tell the glass doesn't lift up. Post it notes?
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Jan 14, 2018 19:00
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Toothbrush and vacuum
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Jan 14, 2018 20:00
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armorer posted:I could probably ask this in the electronics thread, but I figure it's simple enough to ask here as well. I'm putting a new cord on this old stage light for a friend: canyoneer posted:Bought a lovely table at Costco, which is offgassing pretty grossly since unpacking last night. Got 2 huge shop fans and 2 small oscillating fans and the windows open. Suck air in or blow air out? GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jan 14, 2018 |
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Jan 14, 2018 20:18
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subpar anachronism posted:How can I clean out these cracks between the glass and wood on my table? As far as I can tell the glass doesn't lift up. Post it notes? The glass absolutely does lift out of there. It's just been in that spot long enough to be stuck to the little rubber standoffs (one of which you can see in the corner).
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Jan 14, 2018 20:27
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subpar anachronism posted:How can I clean out these cracks between the glass and wood on my table? As far as I can tell the glass doesn't lift up. Post it notes? Can of compressed air?
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Jan 14, 2018 20:41
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Motronic posted:The glass absolutely does lift out of there. It's just been in that spot long enough to be stuck to the little rubber standoffs (one of which you can see in the corner). Is there a way for me to pry them apart without risking messing up the table too badly? Credit card maybe? e: that worked a charm, popped it right off, now I can clean
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Jan 14, 2018 20:54
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Glass table tops are almost without exception tempered glass. While still fragile, they’re a hell of a lot sturdier than most people assume they are.
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Jan 14, 2018 21:22
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GWBBQ posted:That looks like a bayonet-style base for the bulb, so it's grounded through neutral. Use a polarized plug and make sure it's wired with the hot to the smaller prong and neutral to the larger one. Also, you absolutely need strain relief and a grommet where the cord comes through the housing. Thanks - I fixed it up yesterday and it actually had a three conductor cable originally, so I just rewired it the way it had originally been wired (ground to the housing).
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Jan 15, 2018 13:19
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After a few days, I can safely say the humidifier install was a success. My house has been moistened. The wiring to the humidistat is pretty sloppy, though. Is there a particular type of conduit I could use to cleanly route the wires from the furnace/thermometer to the humidistat? Ideally it would be something that I could stick/screw to the return duct where the humidistat is mounted, but I don't know if anything like that exists.
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Jan 15, 2018 19:16
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I know we've had discussions in the past about bathroom vent fans, but this thread is gigantic and I'm not about to try to go digging up the last one, so anyone care to recommend a fan / trustworthy manufacturer? I have a 6" diameter hole venting directly to the outdoors, so installation should be pretty straightforward at least. I care more about noise level and ability to ventilate than I do about cost; I don't really care about timers or auto shutoffs or whatever. If the fan automatically sealed up when not in use, that'd be nice; the cheapo one that's currently there lets a lot of outside air in when the wind is blowing in the right (wrong) direction. EDIT: something I would like clarification on however: the fan I currently have is installed basically inside the vent hole leading to the outside. Seems like most fans are supposed to be installed in the ceiling, but that would require punching another hole slightly higher up the wall. I'd rather re-use the existing hole, if possible. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 21:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I know we've had discussions in the past about bathroom vent fans, but this thread is gigantic and I'm not about to try to go digging up the last one, so anyone care to recommend a fan / trustworthy manufacturer? I have a 6" diameter hole venting directly to the outdoors, so installation should be pretty straightforward at least. I care more about noise level and ability to ventilate than I do about cost; I don't really care about timers or auto shutoffs or whatever. If the fan automatically sealed up when not in use, that'd be nice; the cheapo one that's currently there lets a lot of outside air in when the wind is blowing in the right (wrong) direction. Panasonic ultra quiet ones. They're the only game in town in my book.
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Jan 15, 2018 21:21
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Hm, thanks...unfortunately it seems like there's hardly any in-wall bathroom fans on the market. Basically everything is intended to be ceiling-mounted. There is this Panasonic wall fan, which seems like the best available option (still an order of magnitude louder than the ceiling-mount ones), but it requires an 8" duct as opposed to my current 6". Which means cutting a bigger hole in the wall, through stucco on the outside and tile on the inside. I'm not really equipped to do that.
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Jan 15, 2018 21:57
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H110Hawk posted:Panasonic ultra quiet ones. They're the only game in town in my book. +1 We have a 110 cfm one in our tiny bathroom and it's awesome. Definitely go with the 6 inch ducting though, that seems to quiet it down even more.
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Jan 16, 2018 01:53
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kid sinister posted:First you need to find out if the entire thing is already grounded to neutral. That bracket that the socket is mounted to looks funny. Is the entire socket connected via metal to the neutral screw? On regular Edison bulb sockets, the outside screw ring is connected to neutral. What kind of bulbs does that thing take? GWBBQ posted:That looks like a bayonet-style base for the bulb, so it's grounded through neutral. Use a polarized plug and make sure it's wired with the hot to the smaller prong and neutral to the larger one.Also, you absolutely need strain relief and a grommet where the cord comes through the housing. .......... armorer posted:Thanks - I fixed it up yesterday and it actually had a three conductor cable originally, so I just rewired it the way it had originally been wired (ground to the housing). Whydoihavevoltageonmyground.txt
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Jan 16, 2018 21:27
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Why do people want quiet fans in their bathroom? The noise is a nice privacy mask when I'm having a particularly loud making GBS threads session.
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Jan 16, 2018 21:28
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My dog doesn't care how loud I am in the bathroom, but I absolutely care about how loud the fan is when I have to leave it running for half an hour after I shower.
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Jan 16, 2018 21:36
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angryrobots posted:.......... No but really, neutral wasn't tied to the case, ground was. The cord on it was just not grounded and was quite a mess. I tested multiple possibilities with a multimeter. It was also kind of obvious when I saw a vestigial disconnected wire tied to the case though. Edit: And regarding the bayonet style lamp, it has two contacts points on the bottom, the shell was not tied to either of them. It's like this: https://www.bulbamerica.com/products/ushio-etc-150w-single-ended-halogen-lamp?CAWELAID=120150920000389386&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=11299623006&CATCI=pla-122808166806&catargetid=120150920000802091&cadevice=m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3JLg-6zd2AIVWYezCh1O-AiVEAQYASABEgKwxvD_BwE armorer fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 21:43
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armorer posted:No but really, neutral wasn't tied to the case, ground was. The cord on it was just not grounded and was quite a mess. I tested multiple possibilities with a multimeter. It was also kind of obvious when I saw a vestigial disconnected wire tied to the case though. Good deal, you have it covered! Edit - just to be sure, you toned/ohmed out that neutral wasn't also connected via the bulbholder? If you ohm out between the neutral and ground on the prongs of your new plug, there should be zero connection angryrobots fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jan 16, 2018 |
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Jan 16, 2018 21:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My dog doesn't care how loud I am in the bathroom, but I absolutely care about how loud the fan is when I have to leave it running for half an hour after I shower. Need a silent fan on a humidity controlled switch and a loud fan that you can control for poops.
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Jan 16, 2018 22:40
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Spagghentleman posted:Why do people want quiet fans in their bathroom? The noise is a nice privacy mask when I'm having a particularly loud making GBS threads session. Shy? I leave the fan off when I'm making GBS threads. I'm trying to save electricity and be green.
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Jan 16, 2018 22:54
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Spagghentleman posted:Why do people want quiet fans in their bathroom? The noise is a nice privacy mask when I'm having a particularly loud making GBS threads session. To embarrass guests wanting the same thing. Great for your daughter's date!
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Jan 16, 2018 23:21
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Spagghentleman posted:Why do people want quiet fans in their bathroom? The noise is a nice privacy mask when I'm having a particularly loud making GBS threads session. That's what the sonos speaker in the bathroom is for. I'd rather not listen to a super loud fan all the time.
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Jan 17, 2018 01:49
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Got a new furnace installed, 2-stage. It seems to run way more than my 20 year old one-stage, though presumably at a lower level. Is this really more efficient since it's a natural gas furnace? Seems like the electricity costs being the key consideration, I would want a hot and fast burn with minimal blower activity.
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Jan 17, 2018 23:41
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baquerd posted:Got a new furnace installed, 2-stage. It seems to run way more than my 20 year old one-stage, though presumably at a lower level. Is this really more efficient since it's a natural gas furnace? Seems like the electricity costs being the key consideration, I would want a hot and fast burn with minimal blower activity. the blower on low will use way less electricity than the blower on high since there will be much less static pressure. The gas will come on at a lower level because there will be a greater heat rise with lower airflow, so gas-wise it's close to a wash. edit: apparently this is only true for ECM/BPMs (which is likely what you have). 2-stage furnaces with PSC motors may or may not use more energy depending on test parameters (so that's a wash too) quote:Based on the 2006 ASHRAE test procedure, which appears to provide a more accurate method for calculating the energy consumption of two-stage furnaces, the results indicate that two-stage technology by itself does not save energy. However, the combination of two-stage furnaces with BPM motors provides electricity savings and overall financial benefits to the consumers. https://aceee.org/files/proceedings/2006/data/papers/SS06_Panel1_Paper16.pdf Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 00:06
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 Question, my mother lives in a cabin with a fireplace like this with 4 heatilators, I think they are called? She had the chimney inspected a month ago and the inspector said everything looked great because it’s all masonry and holds up better than the metal ones. Anyway I wasn’t there but when I visited there seems to be steam coming from the top of chimney even when the flue is closed. Is there cold air going in through the vents or do I need a chimney cap thing? I assumed he would have answered this but I am not sure.
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Jan 18, 2018 05:07
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To Battle posted:
Does she have a gas furnace or water heater that shares a chimney in the basement beneath that spot?
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Jan 18, 2018 05:18
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kid sinister posted:Does she have a gas furnace or water heater that shares a chimney in the basement beneath that spot? She does have a water heater that’s right underneath it in the crawl space.There are two openings on top of the chimney as well. Is one for the water heater, baseboard she has?
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Jan 18, 2018 06:03
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I know it most likely means service is needed, but this is about the 3rd time in 2 months my oil furnace isn’t on despite my thermostat saying it should be. Every time, one press of the reset button resolves it instantly... Anyone have any experience with these kinds of issues? Is there a “most likely problem is...” kind of answer?
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Jan 18, 2018 16:20
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Feenix posted:I know it most likely means service is needed, but this is about the 3rd time in 2 months my oil furnace isn’t on despite my thermostat saying it should be. Every time, one press of the reset button resolves it instantly... The reset is some kind of safety, so you should have someone come out. Frequently it's a bad sensor that just needs to be replaced. I'd bet on a flame proof, but it could conceivably be a roll-out sensor or an overheat.
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Jan 18, 2018 16:43
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To Battle posted:She does have a water heater that’s right underneath it in the crawl space.There are two openings on top of the chimney as well. Is one for the water heater, baseboard she has? You got it. You probably saw the smoke from the water heater and not the fireplace.
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Jan 18, 2018 18:18
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Feenix posted:I know it most likely means service is needed, but this is about the 3rd time in 2 months my oil furnace isn’t on despite my thermostat saying it should be. Every time, one press of the reset button resolves it instantly... Most likely problem is a clogged fuel filter followed by points, flame sensor or the nozzle. All but the flame sensor should be replaced annually. They are cheap parts and required to make it run efficiently.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:10
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kid sinister posted:You got it. You probably saw the smoke from the water heater and not the fireplace. Awesome thank you!
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Jan 18, 2018 20:22
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I have a Noritz gas tankless water heater (don't have the model number handy, but it's a smaller one for an 1100sf home built in 2011). In the summer, it will regularly just cut off for 30-60 seconds in the middle of a shower or whatever and then kick back on. It never happens in the winter. I've only noticed it happening when the temp outside is above 75f or so. What could it be? I can't really test again until the weather warms up but I'm trying to figure out how to diagnose the problem. Is the flame cutting off because it's too hot? seems unlikely when it's 75f outside but it is mounted on the southern side of my house with some sun exposure. Still seems unlikely, though.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:32
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Motronic posted:Most likely problem is a clogged fuel filter followed by points, flame sensor or the nozzle. All but the flame sensor should be replaced annually. They are cheap parts and required to make it run efficiently. Thank you. (And Glynnenstein). Are these parts things I can buy and do myself as semi-handy or should I just have a tech out?
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Jan 18, 2018 21:31
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I wouldn't try working on my only source of residential heat in the winter for the first time without someone to help who knows what's up.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:39
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