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LogisticEarth posted:Generally, a skilled flooring company should be able to either refinish or replace/blend in something like that. If you want a fully homogeneous floor, it might be worth refinishing the whole shebang. If it can't be matched, maybe put in some tile there to act as an entryway?
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Jan 10, 2018 03:15
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One option since it's such a small area, if you can't get matching material, is to "steal" some from a closet. Basically cut the floor out of a closet, use the reclaimed flooring to patch the highly visible/public area, and put down some kind of non-matching whatever flooring in the closet where nobody will see it much.
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Jan 10, 2018 05:27
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Leperflesh posted:One option since it's such a small area, if you can't get matching material, is to "steal" some from a closet. Basically cut the floor out of a closet, use the reclaimed flooring to patch the highly visible/public area, and put down some kind of non-matching whatever flooring in the closet where nobody will see it much. Seems to me like if the flooring's old though that the closet will still be a mismatch compared to the floor in the room, just because the room gets so much more traffic and sunlight than a closet floor would.
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Jan 10, 2018 05:54
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Definitely a possibility, yeah. But like if you're trying to match and the original flooring isn't available, the stuff in the closet might be a better match than whatever totally different product is available now. It's just something to consider. As an aside, when we were resurfacing our hardwood floors, we used a closet to test a couple different stains before we decided on one. Same wood, and no difference in wear once we sanded it all down anyway, and nobody's going to care that a couple planks in a bedroom closet are stained different colors.
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Jan 10, 2018 05:57
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Edit: Wrong thread.
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Jan 10, 2018 16:34
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I like these ideas but it's a moot point. All my closets and rooms except wet/eating areas (tile) are carpet with just the slab underneath. Yay early 90s construction! The only wood in the house is the formal dining room which attaches to the 2-foot spot in question that extends from the front door to the carpeted living area. I suppose I could just tile it instead, I hadn't considered that. It might be a mishmash of too many textures at once though. Bad pictures but it's the best I can find on my phone right now.
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Jan 10, 2018 17:31
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If that is slab on grade, it's very likely engineered flooring and will probably be hard to blend. Personally, it looks like a good area for tile as it's an entrance area.
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Jan 10, 2018 23:10
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And there's a squirrel stuck in my woodstove...again. The first time it happened was over the summer. It was in the woodstove, and when I open the door to shove a trap in there, he scampered up the flue and into the horizontal portion of the chimney, like so:  Her then fell into the clean-out on the outside, so I was able to detach it from the rest of the chimney pipe and set it on the ground and he ran away. It's in our basement, and isn't a main source of heat, so we hadn't ever used the stove at that point, only been in the house a couple years. We decided this winter to try and use it, see if it made the house any warmer. Had it inspected, it was all ok except a bad chimney cap...replaced that, figured squirrel problems would be solved...but no. We have used it a decent amount since about mid December since we've had VERY cold weather in the northeast. But this past week temps were a lot warmer, so we felt no need to use it, decided to save the wood for the real cold days. I went into the basement this morning and heard scampering in the woodstove again. I plan to try the same strategy, make noise to scare him up the chimney and into the cleanout and then remove it. What can I do to keep squirrels out of there? I though the new chimney cap would help, but I guess there's still enough of a gap. I assume they crawl up the braces that run from the roof to the chimney, so can I put something on those that they can't get around? Pics from when we had the inspection done:  That's the old chimney cap, the one I installed is just the generic one they have at Lowe's: 
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Jan 12, 2018 16:23
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Wrap some hardware cloth around that cap so animals can't get in or buy a chimney cap with mesh already installed.
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Jan 12, 2018 17:27
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You could also look for stuff designed to keep squirrels out of bird feeders.
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Jan 12, 2018 18:01
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Any fire should turn them to carbon pretty quick but if you insist upon keeping them out they sell caps designed to do that. You can probably also add the spark arrestor for your cap that will keep them out. https://www.menards.com/main/heatin...44453726750.htm Elephanthead fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 18:07
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Speaking of cold northeast weather, just got my first real utility bills. $280 for gas for the month, and that’s with the thermostat at 64 daytime/60 overnight. Electric was $140 but I’m guessing that’s within normal. I remember my 2BR apartment in philly.. $18 electric bill and AC/water were built into rent 
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Jan 12, 2018 22:06
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DrBouvenstein posted:I assume they crawl up the braces that run from the roof to the chimney, so can I put something on those that they can't get around? Rat guards (Though squirrels might be better jumpers so ymmv.)
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Jan 12, 2018 23:34
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Elephanthead posted:Any fire should turn them to carbon pretty quick but if you insist upon keeping them out they sell caps designed to do that. You can probably also add the spark arrestor for your cap that will keep them out. This is the right answer. It's a good idea to have a spark arrestor anyway, and the fine mesh will keep animals out of the chimney as a bonus.
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Jan 13, 2018 00:32
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Need a "how screwed am I" assessment: It seems like there's opossums in our upstairs walls (at least one, but probably two). How the gently caress do we get them out? We don't have an attic or crawlspace, so do we have to cut down a chunk of a wall so that the wildlife control people can get in there?
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Jan 18, 2018 20:12
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I'd imagine they'd try to lure the animals out and then trap them. After all, if they got in, hopefully they can get out.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:19
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Got a question about some flooring. My friends redid their kitchen floor, which ended up leaving a gap of about 6 inches between the kitchen laminate and hardwood in the next room. It's slightly higher leveled on the non kitchen side and basically needs a strip of something laid down to bridge the divide. What terms should I use to search for how to fix this for them? I want it to be my wedding present to them in June.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:07
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Spikes32 posted:Got a question about some flooring. My friends redid their kitchen floor, which ended up leaving a gap of about 6 inches between the kitchen laminate and hardwood in the next room. It's slightly higher leveled on the non kitchen side and basically needs a strip of something laid down to bridge the divide. What terms should I use to search for how to fix this for them? I want it to be my wedding present to them in June. You need a threshold.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:43
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Spikes32 posted:Got a question about some flooring. My friends redid their kitchen floor, which ended up leaving a gap of about 6 inches between the kitchen laminate and hardwood in the next room. It's slightly higher leveled on the non kitchen side and basically needs a strip of something laid down to bridge the divide. What terms should I use to search for how to fix this for them? I want it to be my wedding present to them in June. Why is the gap 6”?
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Jan 18, 2018 22:03
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mattfl posted:You need a threshold. Thanks!
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Jan 18, 2018 22:18
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veiled boner fuel posted:Why is the gap 6”? Because of how the previous floor was laid out and they didn't have previous diy experience when renovating large parts of their just bought 1970s condo
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Jan 18, 2018 22:19
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veiled boner fuel posted:Why is the gap 6”? Seems large enough to make a threshold look silly. Maybe tile would work better.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:28
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Yeah your typical threshold piece is 2 or 3”, not the 7 or 8” that it sounds like this needs. It sounds like they need to put down some more laminate but maybe I’m misunderstanding the issue.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:36
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Next time I'm over at their house I'll take a picture. Maybe they do just need more laminate, but I remember there being a reason they didn't just put more laminate down originally
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Jan 18, 2018 22:43
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anyone have a toilet that uses air pressure to blast poop on its journey? I'm looking to replace the toilets in my house (both of the design that gravity plus a bunch of water is all you need) and I like the idea of these air pressure toilets but I want to get a sense of how loud they are. Are they as loud as the commercial toilets that just get line pressure or are they quieter than that?
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Jan 22, 2018 18:16
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What the gently caress
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Jan 22, 2018 18:45
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Hey, toilets are serious business. The Roman Empire collapsed because they didn't have toilets.
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Jan 22, 2018 19:12
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Molybdenum posted:anyone have a toilet that uses air pressure to blast poop on its journey? I'm looking to replace the toilets in my house (both of the design that gravity plus a bunch of water is all you need) and I like the idea of these air pressure toilets but I want to get a sense of how loud they are. Are they as loud as the commercial toilets that just get line pressure or are they quieter than that? Forcing a bunch of air down your pipe seems like a terrible idea. For example, there's an open-to-the-air pipe as part of that sewer line, basically a standpipe that goes up through the roof or something. If your sewer line is clogged downstream, and you force your toilet water in using high pressure, it's gonna climb up that stack, then when the air pressure stops, it's gonna come right back down that stack... and right out your toilet, goosh, like a poo poo eruption.
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Jan 22, 2018 19:22
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I think he meant this https://www.thespruce.com/pressure-assisted-toilet-works-1824909
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Jan 22, 2018 19:25
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Now I want the space shuttle toilet with a strong enough vacuum pump to make it work.
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Jan 22, 2018 19:38
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AIUI the proper solution here is a macerating toilet with a pump.
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Jan 22, 2018 19:46
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Molybdenum posted:anyone have a toilet that uses air pressure to blast poop on its journey? I'm looking to replace the toilets in my house (both of the design that gravity plus a bunch of water is all you need) and I like the idea of these air pressure toilets but I want to get a sense of how loud they are. Are they as loud as the commercial toilets that just get line pressure or are they quieter than that?
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Jan 22, 2018 23:40
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They also have a tendency to spray poop up the back of the toilet. I’ve seen a kind of wall of poop behind toilets in a place or two that has these. (Still inside the actual toilet, along the back. Not outside the toilet as far as I’ve noticed.)
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Jan 22, 2018 23:50
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Molybdenum posted:anyone have a toilet that uses air pressure to blast poop on its journey? I'm looking to replace the toilets in my house (both of the design that gravity plus a bunch of water is all you need) and I like the idea of these air pressure toilets but I want to get a sense of how loud they are. Are they as loud as the commercial toilets that just get line pressure or are they quieter than that? They absolutely are just as loud as 90 PSI fed commercial toilets where you think they might get sucked through the floor when you flush them. AI buddy put them in his restaurant bathrooms after a remodel. They don't do any better job than the standard ones there were in there before.
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Jan 23, 2018 04:45
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I have kind of a weird HVAC issue going on. I have a two story house with one unit per floor. Both units are in the attic and suck air in from the upstairs hallway. No humidifiers on the units. The last few days, the downstairs unit seems to be heating the upstairs more than the downstairs - I turned up the thermostat a couple degrees and by the time it had gotten the downstairs warm (which took longer than usual) the upstairs had gone up 5 degrees. I looked around the units in the attic and everything looks and sounds right to me. Some air is definitely coming out of the vents downstairs but it might not be as much as before, it's hard to tell. I can't find any obvious air leaks coming out of places they shouldn't upstairs. I plan to call the HVAC company so a professional can come diagnose it, but this is a goofy issue and I was curious if anyone had any theories? All I can think of is a blower fan that is not rotating as fast as it should, but even that seems like it wouldn't cause the upstairs to heat so much. Edit to add: I just called a guy and discussed the issue, he seems to think it's pretty normal based on my open floor plan. He thinks that since it's only below 40 here for a few weeks a year I might just not have noticed it too much in the past, since the same effect wouldn't occur with A/C. Droo fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 17:13
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Droo posted:Hot air rises I am surprised you don't have cold air returns in the downstairs for the downstairs unit. (You may) but if you are sucking all the air off the upstairs ceiling it is just going to make the circulation worse for retaining heat where it don't want to be. Of course in the summer the reverse is true so may just be a design decision.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:35
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Molybdenum posted:anyone have a toilet that uses air pressure to blast poop on its journey? I'm looking to replace the toilets in my house (both of the design that gravity plus a bunch of water is all you need) and I like the idea of these air pressure toilets but I want to get a sense of how loud they are. Are they as loud as the commercial toilets that just get line pressure or are they quieter than that? I had a similar problem in my old house. The old pre-1.6 gallon toilets literally wouldn't flush poo poo. Replaced them and poop went down every time.
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Jan 23, 2018 19:31
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Frozen pipes saga: Getting a new bathroom floor to fix the cold water pipe break. Have to tear into the kitchen wall to find the hot water pipe break. Estimate so far to fix cold water / restore bathroom + fix hot water (but doesn't include restore yet) is 5500. My deductible is 1000 and they're paying for everything else. No claim submitted to utility company, yet, because final costs aren't clear. If utility pays up then I'll get reimbursed for my deductible.
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Jan 23, 2018 19:34
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Alereon posted:Pressure assisted toilets don't actually perform any better than good quality gravity flush toilets in tests, they're just louder and more expensive. Check out an American Standard Champion 4 Max as an example of a good performing gravity flush toilet. This is the one true answer--I replaced both of my toilets with these and the plunger is now completely obsolete. Even the small closet bathroom, I replaced the kids height round bowl toilet with the elongated chair height Champion 4, and it only added 1" overall to the depth of the toilet. Meanwhile, removing the pedestal sink and installing an Ikea sideways vanity that was 10" deep added 7" of space, making the whole bathroom so much more useable and spacious. You could flush a bucket of golf balls with that baby, it's a huge quality of life improvement.
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Jan 24, 2018 14:31
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OSU_Matthew posted:You could flush a bucket of golf balls with that baby, it's a huge quality of life improvement. While impressive please don't flush the baby. 
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Jan 24, 2018 14:58
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