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Adjust the hinge-plates upwards a bit?
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Jan 23, 2018 03:14
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The body side doesn't adjust, the door side is adjusted up as far as it goes. A jack was involved.
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Jan 23, 2018 03:52
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Javid posted:89 cougar. Saggy door on an MN12? You are absolutely not the first. I've been out of that game for a while but there are some platform specific forums that might be worth a browse. Can't recall the name unfortunately. Somebody might even have a kit for that fix.
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Jan 23, 2018 04:27
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I had to google MN12, but yep. The doors are about 8 feet long, I'm not hugely surprised it's an issue. I'm on a cougar forum but it's mostly dudes polishing their actual classics, not a lot of interest in the late 80s models. E: First result is here: http://www.mn12tech.com/door-hinge-repair.php However that's just a walkthrough of the hinge pin replacement I already did. It suggests replacing the striker bolts, which I was considering anyway. I don't imagine that will fully address the problem, though. Javid fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 04:56
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2006 Saturn Ion. 2.2L, 5 speed manual. 196k. Maintenance has generally been kept up on, but it's due for plugs (has AC Delco iridium plugs with right at 100k, and overdue for a fuel filter). Has the original primary o2 sensor. Just did a road trip in it. I did the exact same road trip 23 months ago. Last time, I managed a hair over 35 MPG from my front door to my destination, plus a week's worth of driving, and about 33 coming back. This time, I managed 27 MPG from door to door, plus 4 days of driving. Coming back I nailed 32 MPG on the nose. 2 years ago, I drove much more aggressively than I did this time (ac on the whole time, cruise at 85-95 - this time was cruise at or slightly above the speed limit [basically staying with traffic], and the ac crapped out almost a year ago). The last trip was mid February. This trip was, well... this weekend. Would winter fuel cause this much of a discrepancy? When do southern states (TX) switch between winter and summer blends? The car does surge and ping a little during WOT, but outside of high RPM WOT it drives fine (yes, a fuel filter is on my shopping list, so are new plugs). Just trying to figure out why the mileage was so much worse. Driving down was into a headwind, so a drop in MPG was expected, but driving back was done with no real wind. The mileage for this car has never been fantastic, but 27 MPG is close to what I usually get in the city.
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Jan 23, 2018 10:11
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kid sinister posted:No it's not adjustable. It's a moot point anyway since my truck still has the surging idle. It's still doing the 500 RPM drop when I take my foot off the accelerator. I fixed that cable too. It didn't die as often with the new TPS though. You got a torch?
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Jan 23, 2018 15:23
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Whatever happened to kastein? That jeep guru guy
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Jan 23, 2018 15:54
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Would winter fuel cause this much of a discrepancy? If southern states get winterized/oxygenated fuel during the winter months, absolutely. When they put additives into the fuel to help it burn in colder weather they reduce the fuel content, which usually results in a decrease in economy. Also what was the temperature like? Colder air is denser and therefore has higher oxygen content, which then requires more fuel per cycle and increases wind resistance slightly. Everything in the winter works to drive fuel economy down. During the 11 day polar vortex cycle we just went through I was lucky to average 21 MPG in mixed driving, when I usually get mid to high 20s in the winter - although to be fair we were in the single/negative digits during that time.
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Jan 23, 2018 16:08
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My 1997 Ranger had a completely dead battery on the weekend. I called CAA, the towtruck driver checked the voltage and said it was reading 1.9V but he was able to get it running with a boost and I sat there running it for nearly an hour to charge it back up. He looked at and felt the battery then told me to have a look - my battery is toast, it's bulging on four sides. I bought it new from Canadian Tire in October and I have the receipt (somewhere, I know I didn't throw it out) so I'm planning to claim the warranty and just get a straight replacement. But I'm a little concerned that the reason this battery failed might be because it's not actually the correct battery for my truck. Yesterday night, the truck was completely dead again - not even a flicker from the dome light, and nothing at all on the instruments when I turned the key, nevermind starter noises. The Canadian Tire website lists a couple of 590CCA batteries in their house brand, Motomaster, including the one I bought a few months ago. But other websites list all 650CCA and higher batteries when I put in my truck's details - it has the 4.0L V6, NOT the 3.0L "Vulcan" that seems to have been put in many more Rangers, and I'm worried some store inventory software is making a mistake. The battery I took out of my truck in October had a higher rating, I can't remember the exact details but it was well over 600CCA (maybe 700? or 750?) and the battery itself was larger - about 2 inches longer in the direction that lines up with the front-rear axis of the vehicle when installed; the battery has to be a specific width to fit on the battery tray and be held down by the little clamp at the base. Various websites also list higher-CCA batteries, but for considerably higher prices, up around $250-$300 for the Optima batteries, for example. Weirdly, the link for a battery listed on a page will include "650CCA" but the description will say "Cold Cranking Amps: 850" or other numbers. Where would you look to confirm the correct battery characteristics if you don't trust the website of your local supplier? Where's a good place to read up on car batteries and how they work / are rated?
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Jan 23, 2018 16:15
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:2006 Saturn Ion. 2.2L, 5 speed manual. 196k. I wouldn't be surprised if everything you listed contributed to the dip in fuel economy. Plugs and winter gas especially.
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Jan 23, 2018 16:31
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ExecuDork posted:My 1997 Ranger had a completely dead battery on the weekend. I called CAA, the towtruck driver checked the voltage and said it was reading 1.9V but he was able to get it running with a boost and I sat there running it for nearly an hour to charge it back up. He looked at and felt the battery then told me to have a look - my battery is toast, it's bulging on four sides. I bought it new from Canadian Tire in October and I have the receipt (somewhere, I know I didn't throw it out) so I'm planning to claim the warranty and just get a straight replacement. But I'm a little concerned that the reason this battery failed might be because it's not actually the correct battery for my truck. Yesterday night, the truck was completely dead again - not even a flicker from the dome light, and nothing at all on the instruments when I turned the key, nevermind starter noises. The battery dying quickly after being deep cycled to ~2V is expected. Usually once a car battery goes a volt or two below 12 its toast. Actually if the battery is bulging on all four sides remove it from the truck and leave it outside until you're ready to dispose of it - its a ticking timebomb at this point and certainly shouldn't be used. ExecuDork posted:The Canadian Tire website lists a couple of 590CCA batteries in their house brand, Motomaster, including the one I bought a few months ago. But other websites list all 650CCA and higher batteries when I put in my truck's details - it has the 4.0L V6, NOT the 3.0L "Vulcan" that seems to have been put in many more Rangers, and I'm worried some store inventory software is making a mistake. Check the battery manufacturer's application guide. I just checked your Ranger against one with the 3.0 V6 on Interstate Battery's application guide and they suggest the same batteries for both engines - group 65, with the lowest CCA rated battery being 650. Geoj fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 16:39
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ExecuDork posted:My 1997 Ranger had a completely dead battery on the weekend. I called CAA, the towtruck driver checked the voltage and said it was reading 1.9V but he was able to get it running with a boost and I sat there running it for nearly an hour to charge it back up. He looked at and felt the battery then told me to have a look - my battery is toast, it's bulging on four sides. I bought it new from Canadian Tire in October and I have the receipt (somewhere, I know I didn't throw it out) so I'm planning to claim the warranty and just get a straight replacement. But I'm a little concerned that the reason this battery failed might be because it's not actually the correct battery for my truck. Yesterday night, the truck was completely dead again - not even a flicker from the dome light, and nothing at all on the instruments when I turned the key, nevermind starter noises. Bulging on 4 sides, maybe it froze? The CCA being off won’t make a huge difference.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:18
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Geoj posted:The battery dying quickly after being deep cycled to ~2V is expected. Usually once a car battery goes a volt or two below 12 its toast. I'll pull the battery out tonight when I get home. Presumably I'll need to bring it to Canadian Tire to claim the warranty and get a replacement, but if it could rupture at any time I'd rather not be carrying it when that happens. How can I carry a bulging battery to dispose of it? I suppose I could get an acid-resistant bin, I have a couple of big Rubbermaid bins around that could easily hold it. Given it was drained to dead by 6 weeks of sitting still in winter (including temperatures as low as -30 C), what can I do to look for parasitic draw after I get a new battery? Just poke every connector and ground I find with a multimeter? Go through the fuse panel with the multimeter? I've never really worked on anything electrical on a car before, beyond simple replacement of things like batteries, fuses, and bulbs. EDIT: rdb, I didn't see your response while I was writing the above. Yeah, frozen seems possible given this place had a severe cold snap while I was away. But I've lived in wintery places for a while, and I've never had a problem with a battery getting permanently damaged by temperatures of -30 C and colder. They go dead at really cold temperatures, but they don't get broken and a new battery should always be able to crank the engine at -30. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 17:23
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ExecuDork posted:Cool, thanks, that's very helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs
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Jan 23, 2018 17:34
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BoyBlunder posted:Whatever happened to kastein? That jeep guru guy It's been 4 days since his last post, I don't think you need to worry. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3527505&pagenumber=58&perpage=40#post480451087
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Jan 23, 2018 17:45
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ExecuDork posted:Cool, thanks, that's very helpful. The more a battery is discharged the more water it contains making it freeze at higher temperatures. In this case I would suggest removing the battery from the truck and storing it inside if you plan on leaving it again. For a battery to drain over 6 weeks is not ideal but hardly an alarming amount of parasitic drain and you may not find a culprit. Overnight or every couple days is a problem.
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Jan 23, 2018 17:47
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wesleywillis posted:You got a torch? Just propane. I was thinking about doing that yesterday but it was super windy outside and I'm working in my driveway. Just heat up the outside right?
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Jan 23, 2018 18:15
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rdb posted:The more a battery is discharged the more water it contains making it freeze at higher temperatures. In this case I would suggest removing the battery from the truck and storing it inside if you plan on leaving it again. For a battery to drain over 6 weeks is not ideal but hardly an alarming amount of parasitic drain and you may not find a culprit. Overnight or every couple days is a problem. Have folks used the solar battery tenders out there (for those that don't have things like "garages" with "outlets" to plug into at night) and any recommendations/thoughts on those? Seems like they could be a decent solution to leaving a battery out in the cold all winter if you're only driving every six weeks.
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Jan 23, 2018 18:33
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Geoj posted:If southern states get winterized/oxygenated fuel during the winter months, absolutely. When they put additives into the fuel to help it burn in colder weather they reduce the fuel content, which usually results in a decrease in economy. Also what was the temperature like? Colder air is denser and therefore has higher oxygen content, which then requires more fuel per cycle and increases wind resistance slightly. So that's why my fuel economy goes down in the winter. I thought it was diff oil not getting up to temp or something like that.
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Jan 23, 2018 18:36
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ExecuDork posted:How can I carry a bulging battery to dispose of it? I suppose I could get an acid-resistant bin, I have a couple of big Rubbermaid bins around that could easily hold it. A plastic bin would work. Realistically its more likely to not explode, but if it does cleaning it up outside will be substantially easier. You definitely don't want to try to charge it further though. ExecuDork posted:Given it was drained to dead by 6 weeks of sitting still in winter (including temperatures as low as -30 C), what can I do to look for parasitic draw after I get a new battery? Just poke every connector and ground I find with a multimeter? Go through the fuse panel with the multimeter? I've never really worked on anything electrical on a car before, beyond simple replacement of things like batteries, fuses, and bulbs. You might be putting the cart before the horse here. Its possible you were sold a defective battery. Also in the possible column, your alternator could be toast - dead/dying alternators will kill a battery in short order by either under or over-charging it. Generally when looking for a drain the procedure is wait 20-30 minutes (although on an older truck with few standby electrical systems this may not be necessary,) disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and connect your volt meter between the terminal and the battery set to mA. There's likely going to be some draw with everything off, but if you see north of 100 mA there's something drawing more current than it should. At that point start pulling fuses one at a time until the draw reduces, then you have your culprit (or at least the circuit its connected to.) 22 Eargesplitten posted:So that's why my fuel economy goes down in the winter. I thought it was diff oil not getting up to temp or something like that. That would have an effect early on, but unless you're only making short drives or experiencing extreme low temperatures there's enough friction taking place within the differential to warm the oil.
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Jan 23, 2018 18:49
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kid sinister posted:No it's not adjustable. It's a moot point anyway since my truck still has the surging idle. It's still doing the 500 RPM drop when I take my foot off the accelerator. I fixed that cable too. It didn't die as often with the new TPS though. There are special vice grips for bolts that are kinda v shaped, those might do the trick if there is room. If not a muffler shop will get it out pretty cheap if you dont feel like loving with it. Personally id pull a sparkplug or two and figure outif you are going lean or rich. Id wager its lean since it dies after heat soaking. That could be the o2 but imo you would be rich, especially if you have exhaust leaks. If its dirty it would command more fuel and go rich. The fuel pump is definitely falling down and aside from barely having the psi to get an adequate spray pattern whatever is causing the low psi is probably adding a gently caress ton of heat to the fuel maybe even occasionally vaporizing or adding bubbles in the line. Its heat related so thats something to think about and imo step one is figuring out if its rich or lean when it actually dies. E: also i guess you could smell it. Even with a cat, rich smells good and gassy, lean is closer to getting maced. Theres a kinda of sting or bite to it. Sorry if you already know this, but trust your nose on this one. EE:these are the type of vice grips im talking about. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SBBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1516736815&sr=1-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65 DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 20:32
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DogonCrook posted:There are special vice grips for bolts that are kinda v shaped, those might do the trick if there is room. If not a muffler shop will get it out pretty cheap if you dont feel like loving with it. I fixed the exhaust leaks, at least I think I did. I replaced both flanges on either side with new split flanges. The left flange was bent to hell and the right flange looked okay, but I replaced both of them anyway. It does kinda sound like it has an exhaust leak still, but there is no more smoke that I can see in the engine bay leaking out at the manifold/pipe connections. I got all 3 fuel filters. I haven't put them on yet though. I should do the high pressure pump while I'm down there? What PSI would I need? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Jan 23, 2018 |
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Jan 23, 2018 21:59
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kid sinister posted:I fixed the exhaust leaks, at least I think I did. I replaced both flanges on either side with new split flanges. The left flange was bent to hell and the right flange looked okay, but I replaced both of them anyway. It does kinda sound like it has an exhaust leak still, but there is no more smoke that I can see in the engine bay leaking out at the manifold/pipe connections. Back in the day, I remember checking for exhaust leaks by shoving a rag in the tail pipe with the engine running and then just looking for smoke. If the leak is down stream of the o2 sensor though, then its probably not the problem.
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Jan 23, 2018 22:16
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kid sinister posted:I fixed the exhaust leaks, at least I think I did. I replaced both flanges on either side with new split flanges. The left flange was bent to hell and the right flange looked okay, but I replaced both of them anyway. It does kinda sound like it has an exhaust leak still, but there is no more smoke that I can see in the engine bay leaking out at the manifold/pipe connections. The high pressure pump is what i would guess. Im not 100% thats the problem but its struggling so it will be soon if it isnt yet. Unless the egr is new or replaced thats another possible air source and itll cause a surging idle while hot as well. The egr stuck open will also only be noticeable after its hot. That said those numbers for the pump is gonna lead to problems down the road one way or the other and give you all the problems roached injectors will like incomplete combustion, misfires, clogged cats, and horrible mileage etc. its right on the cusp so imo may as well knock it out. You could look into the egr for free so you may want to do that first.
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Jan 23, 2018 22:34
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DogonCrook posted:The high pressure pump is what i would guess. Im not 100% thats the problem but its struggling so it will be soon if it isnt yet. Unless the egr is new or replaced thats another possible air source and itll cause a surging idle while hot as well. The egr stuck open will also only be noticeable after its hot. That said those numbers for the pump is gonna lead to problems down the road one way or the other and give you all the problems roached injectors will like incomplete combustion, misfires, clogged cats, and horrible mileage etc. its right on the cusp so imo may as well knock it out. You could look into the egr for free so you may want to do that first. EGR is 5-ish years old? I sprayed it all up with starter fluid and its pipe under the intake manifold too. It didn't surge from that. The EGR sensor is original though. I had to go to a junkyard for one after 3 new ones from 3 different manufacturers tested out of spec and gave me CELs. What stats would I need on a fuel pump? I looked up a couple and the numbers are all over the place.
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Jan 23, 2018 23:08
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kid sinister posted:EGR is 5-ish years old? I sprayed it all up with starter fluid and its pipe under the intake manifold too. It didn't surge from that. The EGR sensor is original though. I had to go to a junkyard for one after 3 new ones from 3 different manufacturers tested out of spec and gave me CELs. I think the general rule is 5lbs over what your injectors need to keep them operating correctly . But if its 10lbs under what it put out stock something is up. Thats kinda why i dont know if its for sure the fuel pump causing the issue but the fuel pump is dying. The ratings for injectors are kinda misleading too so i really dont know for sure what they need. Hitting the low end of psi doesnt necessarily mean its bad but it should be able to at least clear 40 psi. Especially if its supposed to put out 45. E: if it an 88 you can always just delete the egr. EE: also im not talking about a vac leak around the egr, if tge egr sticks open even a little, exhaust is going to either lean the mixture or cause so much turbulance it cant fire right at idle. Its fine at speed and you wont notice but it cant hold a steady idle. It also wouldnt be noticeable when cold. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jan 24, 2018 |
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Jan 24, 2018 00:15
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So if you google "slotted head bolt" it shows you flathead screws lol. Anyways my power steering pump is held on by two bolts with slots cut into the head like its a sliced pie. What kind of bolt is that, and also why is it that necessary? I cant find these bolts except in a kit with the entire mount. The kit mentions it as if it were noteable "includes correct slotted head bolts" but this is a rare ps pump (federal style) so its the only kit i can actually find (yearone, the kits on ebay appear to be the exact same). It gave me pause that they noted it was "correct". I read that two ways, it just means for original restorations its correct or, they mean correct as in, "lol if you dont use these". If i can find just the bolts that would be awesome but barring that is there any reason a regular bolt would not work? I feel like it would be fine and who knows what Chrysler was thinking but im not super knowledgeable about bolts so i figured id double check. I really dont get what function the slots serve either it seems like a weaker bolt head.
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Jan 24, 2018 03:13
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DogonCrook posted:So if you google "slotted head bolt" it shows you flathead screws lol. Anyways my power steering pump is held on by two bolts with slots cut into the head like its a sliced pie. What kind of bolt is that, and also why is it that necessary? I used to work for a fastener company in college. Do you got a picture and maybe I can repay the favor? You're probably right about being able to use something else that fits. Do you know the thread size and pitch? E: length too, and maybe head diameter if it has to go somewhere tight. E2: what year/make/model too? There are some weird ones out there, like decades old Land Rovers with weird British threads. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jan 24, 2018 |
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Jan 24, 2018 03:48
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kid sinister posted:I used to work for a fastener company in college. Do you got a picture and maybe I can repay the favor? You're probably right about being able to use something else that fits. Do you know the thread size and pitch? E: length too, and maybe head diameter if it has to go somewhere tight. Thanks! https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/ps26 Heres the kit. Its the three smaller bolts and if you zoom in you can see the slots. Im mainly curious if its a weird alloy or something. The slots dont really seem to serve a purpose. They bolt through a flat plate straight into the housing and im pretty sure there is no washer.
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Jan 24, 2018 05:13
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I've got an '08 Ford Fusion that I just rolled 100K miles. Is there any maintenance I should be looking at having done? I've had it since about 50K miles, and have only done oil changes and the brakes. I'm thinking about doing ATF flush, but I've also heard that sometimes it can actually cause issues to flush it on high mileage cars. Any thoughts on what my priorities should be to keep it running smoothly? Thanks.
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Jan 24, 2018 05:29
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Look at your owner's manual if you have it (if you don't, it should be on Ford's website somewhere). Not knowing the car, I'd suggest spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, a drain/fill on the transmission (not necessarily a flush), replace coolant, replace brake fluid, and anything else the owner's manual suggests for 100k. 100k isn't a magic number where everything suddenly wears out, but that's the typical maintenance list for ~100k on a lot of cars. Most people never think about coolant or brake fluid.
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Jan 24, 2018 06:29
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I bought and fixed a 2006 Fusion with rod knock for my wife around this time last year. It started life as a rental and has 174k on its (at least as far as I can tell) factory original automatic transmission. All we did to it was drop the pan, change the filter and top off the fluid to replace what was lost (about 3.5 quarts) using Valvoline synthetic ATF that meets the Mazda ATF spec required by the FNR5. Transmission still shifts smoothly and doesn't slip.
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Jan 24, 2018 06:37
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Breakfast Feud posted:Get something that's listed to fit your model, or has good reviews online. Try to find some pics. I've been told if your car cover is too loose the wind will move it and the movement will eventually wear away your clearcoat. No idea how true that is, though. Interesting. Is it just better to leave my car out without a cover then?
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Jan 24, 2018 07:29
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kid sinister posted:EGR is 5-ish years old? I sprayed it all up with starter fluid and its pipe under the intake manifold too. It didn't surge from that. The EGR sensor is original though. I had to go to a junkyard for one after 3 new ones from 3 different manufacturers tested out of spec and gave me CELs. I didnt think about it before and maybe it already came up but did you replace the coolant temp sensor? Thats basically your choke and im not sure that would always throw a code if it just reads colder than it should or is lazy.
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Jan 24, 2018 07:51
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DogonCrook posted:Thanks! That description got it right: those are place bolts. It's technical, but they're a type of locking bolt that's very good at resisting vibrating loose. They're used for flywheels a lot, like mine. And I replaced the coolant temp sensor. The old one kind of fell apart when I redid the lower intake manifold gaskets a couple months ago. Its pigtail could use replacing though. The plastic retainer clip broke off. The gauge reads temp change as it warms just fine. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Jan 24, 2018 |
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Jan 24, 2018 08:01
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kid sinister posted:That description got it right: those are place bolts. It's technical, but they're a type of locking bolt that's very good at resisting vibrating loose. They're used for flywheels a lot, like mine. Thanks for the info on the bolt i found some. There should be two, one goes to the gauge and the other goes to the ecu. The gauge one is technically called a sender i guess. The one thay goes to the computer is an ect and that's the one that acts as a choke. It may be in the same area.
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Jan 24, 2018 08:18
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DogonCrook posted:Thanks for the info on the bolt i found some. Oh I know the one you're talking about. It screws into the lower intake manifold on my 302. That one is still stock. I looked them up and they look pretty cheap too.
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Jan 25, 2018 01:07
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kid sinister posted:Oh I know the one you're talking about. It screws into the lower intake manifold on my 302. That one is still stock. I looked them up and they look pretty cheap too. It has an air temp sensor too and im not really sure it could cause this and still be able to start very well but you may want to check it. While i was looking it up i found a mega thread for surging idle on this era fords. A lot of it you have already gone over and covered bit it might be handy if its not the ect and you have to start checking all the sensor voltages. https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/help-me-create-the-surging-idle-checklist.698148/
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Jan 25, 2018 01:48
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quote:14.) VSS sensor defective or wiring damaged. The MAF and Speed Density cruse control equipped cars will have a vehicle speed sensor on the speedo cable pickup. The purpose of the VSS is to increase the idle speed as the car slows to a stop. If the sensor is defective, you can experience stalling as you slow to a stop. That one kinda jumps out at me. KS, I forget, does your truck have cruise? Does it work?
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Jan 25, 2018 03:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:That one kinda jumps out at me. KS, I forget, does your truck have cruise? Does it work? Yeah it does. First one I've ever seen on a manual too. I haven't tried it in a over a year, but it worked then. I just redid its vacuum line too. But mines MAP, not MAF. I suppose I could unhook its accelerator cable to see if it stops doing that.
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Jan 25, 2018 05:57
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