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stinch posted:if you still a few smaller holes around the circumference the sawdust can get out and the hole saw will go through quickly in one go. Of all the tips I've learned over the years, this is probably the most valuable. Just run the hole saw down until it makes a mark, drill some ~10mm holes around the periphery, maybe 30mm apart, so number of holes depends on diameter of hole saw, then experience divine hole sawing.
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Jan 12, 2018 12:46
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sharkytm posted:$10 USB endoscope? Yeah, just sure which ones are worth a poo poo
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Jan 12, 2018 19:02
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, just sure which ones are worth a poo poo At that price range, they are probably all the same poo poo internally anyway. I have a cheap endoscope that I was able to fish a bolt out of a bellhousing with, you'll be fine for cylinder wall inspection with one.
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Jan 12, 2018 21:03
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, just sure which ones are worth a poo poo Was this a pun?  
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Jan 12, 2018 22:07
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That's what I get for replying whist my mind is elsewhere 
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Jan 12, 2018 22:31
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Where should I go and how much should I spend to get a basic ratchet and socket set? After reading about Harbor Freight’s torque wrenches being not terrible for basic auto work, I’m wondering if I should look there too.
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Jan 23, 2018 23:04
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Where should I go and how much should I spend to get a basic ratchet and socket set? After reading about Harbor Freight’s torque wrenches being not terrible for basic auto work, I’m wondering if I should look there too. What kind of work will you be doing with it and how often? Personally, I tend to recommend getting the second-cheapest brand from a reputable retailer as a starter kit. As time goes on, you'll be adding stuff to it as the need arises and if you use it a lot, you can treat yourself to a 'nice' kit, knowing what it is you like about them
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Jan 23, 2018 23:14
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Basic maintenance on a BMW, starting with replacing a loose taillight assembly, but mostly plugs and fluids and brake pads. I’m planning to do a few HPDEs and autocross, but even so, pretty light duty, I’d think.
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Jan 23, 2018 23:21
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Pick up a Huskey socket set from Lowes or whatever and replace the things that break with used Mac, Snapon, Craftsman (meh), etc from eBay.
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Jan 23, 2018 23:34
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Sounds good. Am I right to be grabbing a $20 torque wrench from Harbor Freight, too?
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Jan 23, 2018 23:46
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Sounds good. Am I right to be grabbing a $20 torque wrench from Harbor Freight, too? Yup, perfect for a starter set. You might buy 2, one 1/2" for lugs and one 3/8" for smaller stuff.
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Jan 23, 2018 23:59
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I've got the Tekton 3/8" and 1/4" sets in the blow molded cases, and for ~$40 each they're an excellent deal. Easy to store, easy to carry, and easy to see if you're missing something. The ratchets are decent, as good or better than my Craftsman USA RP ratchets. I've used them as a portable set, and done plenty of work from brakes to timing belts with them. Easier than hauling around my Craftsman sockets in Hansen trays, and they fit nicely in a tool bag for working around the house too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RCYX4WI and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RCYX504 are the sets I have.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:04
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Avoid the 3/8s HF torque wrench. The detent in anything below half way to its max torque setting is going to be very soft as to be unnoticable.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:06
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Is that a problem unique to HF? I have an old but higher-end 3/8 torque wrench inherited from my late father in law (I thiiiiink it's a Proto?) that has an inconsistent and often very weak click action to it. Last calibrated in 1985 according to the sticker. It will click at the same point but I can let off and reapply force and get either a weaker or stronger click without even removing it from the fastener. It's nice to have, especially with the smaller head and sockets, but it's somewhat maddening to use compared to my 1/2" torque wrenches where once it goes CLICK there's no doubt.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:12
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I bitched about the cheapest basic socket set at Harbor Freight before. Annoyingly, it's all 1/4" sockets and a 3/8" ratchet, so you need an adapter to use them together. I finally had to do something more than remove some trim pieces and put some torque on it. Twisted the adapter in half. Woo! (I'm a 140 lb weakling.) So, um, don't buy that.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:13
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I think you're going to need some specialty sockets, bmw likes to use torx and reverse torx IIRC. It's been awhile since I've been under one.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:17
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Elmnt80 posted:Avoid the 3/8s HF torque wrench. The detent in anything below half way to its max torque setting is going to be very soft as to be unnoticable. Seconding this. It's so easy to blow past that it's almost not worth buying. Almost.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:31
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Sounds good. Am I right to be grabbing a $20 torque wrench from Harbor Freight, too? Don't pay $20 for them.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:37
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I have an el cheapo Tekton torque wrench that's alright. Not the best but it gets the job done when I'm working somewhere I really, really don't want to overtorque something. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24330-8-Inch-ft-lb-13-6-108-5/dp/B00FMPKAD0/ Uthor posted:I bitched about the cheapest basic socket set at Harbor Freight before. Annoyingly, it's all 1/4" sockets and a 3/8" ratchet, so you need an adapter to use them together. I finally had to do something more than remove some trim pieces and put some torque on it. Twisted the adapter in half. Woo! Yeah, that's pretty much the fate for all adapters 
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Jan 24, 2018 00:37
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BlackMK4 posted:I have an el cheapo Tekton torque wrench that's alright. Not the best but it gets the job done when I'm working somewhere I really, really don't want to overtorque something. I have always assumed that the point of adapters was to act as a physical method of informing you that you should buy the right tool for that job.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:44
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spog posted:I have always assumed that the point of adapters was to act as a physical method of informing you that you should buy the right tool for that job. The adapter was the only way to use the ratchet that came with the sockets in the tool set that I bought! Obviously, a $5 HF socket set turns out to not by the right tool.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:51
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jamal posted:I think you're going to need some specialty sockets, bmw likes to use torx and reverse torx IIRC. It's been awhile since I've been under one. Depending on year, you'll also have triple square to deal with. Lisle sells a master kit, part number 60850.
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Jan 24, 2018 00:52
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I guess it depends on the model years. E46 won't have any triple square or reverse torx, but will have regular torx for strange things like door panels. GODDAMN WINDOW REGULATORS I guess E90 brought e-torx (and the begin of the decline of BMW).
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Jan 24, 2018 00:58
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BlackMK4 posted:I guess it depends on the model years. E46 won't have any triple square or reverse torx, but will have regular torx for strange things like door panels. GODDAMN WINDOW REGULATORS
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Jan 24, 2018 01:10
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InitialDave posted:Triple-square seems to be more VAG's weird thing most of the time, though even E30s have some E-Torx heads on them. e36 differentials have them too
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Jan 24, 2018 01:17
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BraveUlysses posted:e36 differentials have them too
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Jan 24, 2018 01:21
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I’ve got an F30, a 2013 328i. So far, the video I watched on replacing the taillight assembly mentioned some Torx bolts holding in the trunk liner, though I was planning to use a Torx bit in my drill to deal with those. What I’ve read so far on fluids, plugs, and pads seems to suggest that I won’t need anything too special for those, but I’m totally fine spending a few extra bucks on more sockets if needed. I’m walking distance from an OSH and biking distance from a Home Depot, if worst comes to worst.
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Jan 24, 2018 01:40
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InitialDave posted:Triple-square seems to be more VAG's weird thing most of the time, though even E30s have some E-Torx heads on them. Yeah, I have a set of triple squares. Only used them once, to replace a Jetta door latch. Can't think of where the E30 has etorx... 
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Jan 24, 2018 02:30
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Bellhousing bolts when M20-powered, I believe.
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Jan 24, 2018 03:11
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Thanks for the coupon link, BeastofExmoor. I’ll use that for sure. So if I want to avoid HF for the 3/8” torque wrench, what should I do for that instead? 1/2” HF, 3/8” Tekton?
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Jan 24, 2018 04:11
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Tekton will be fine. Or HF. It's all user preference at this level with the click. They've been tested. Couple things... 1) Keep it clean. Oils will remove the white lettering. 2) Unload the wrench (meaning back it off) before storing. Don't undo too much or you can actually yank it apart. Don't get hung up in accuracy +/-. You want consistency. With that said, would I trust a HF torque wrench on TTY bolts on a LT4? Probably not. But for lug nuts and diff covers good enough. Just follow basic criss-cross pattern type fastening with a step up or two in getting there.
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Jan 24, 2018 16:57
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C-Bangin' it 
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Big Taint posted:Bellhousing bolts when M20-powered, I believe.
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Jan 24, 2018 18:02
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Colostomy Bag posted:Tekton will be fine. Or HF. It's all user preference at this level with the click. They've been tested. Guess which $10 torque wrench I used to assemble my last couple engine builds. 
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Jan 25, 2018 09:21
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I bought 4 of the 3/8 HF torque wrenches for me and some buddies, and before I gave them out I tested them all with a digital torque meter. Every one of them was +/- 2%, so there's some very scientific data for you.
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Jan 25, 2018 15:41
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Heh, doesn't surprise me. Car Craft ran them through their paces years ago and they were amazed how accurate they were vs price. Interesting read on how they read if you don't unload them: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/
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Jan 25, 2018 16:26
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Anyone have a suggestion for a relatively cheap ($150 or less) yet powerful pneumatic impact wrench? I have a DeWalt DCF899 lithium ion impact, but I've encountered a handful of fasteners it hasn't had the torque to break free, like wheel lugs that some tire tech hammered with an impact set to full power. Air isn't a problem - my father in law installed his Quincy QT-5 compressor in my garage after moving into a house with a two car attached (used to have a three car detached with workshop space), which can do ~17 CFM @ 175 PSI. Currently eyeing this HF 3/4 drive impact at ~$100 that hits for 1000 ft-lbs. Weight or size really isn't a concern as I'll only be using this when the DCF899 can't handle something.
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Jan 25, 2018 16:47
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I've got this HF Earthquake 1/2" that has done well. Takes even the toughest crank pulley and CV axle bolts off, and running off an older 30gal Craftsman compressor. I know you're not concerned with size/weight, but I'm impressed with it for the size. I'd say either would do well as a backup to an electric. https://harborfreight.com/12-in-aluminum-air-impact-wrench-68424.html
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Jan 25, 2018 17:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, doesn't surprise me. Car Craft ran them through their paces years ago and they were amazed how accurate they were vs price. That is indeed interesting. I always left it loaded because I didn't think it really mattered despite the instructions clearly suggesting it be unloaded  . I still would like to see it internally to better understand it but  . I need to take my HF 1/2" back and exchange it, it slips a fair amount (handle turns with 0 torque being applied). edit: my earthquake failed after a few years (I even oiled it every time I used it) so I just bought an lithium ion to replace it for lugs and such.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:00
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Larrymer posted:That is indeed interesting. I always left it loaded because I didn't think it really mattered despite the instructions clearly suggesting it be unloaded I'm guilty as well and never thought much about it at the time and probably should replace mine due to it. Live and learn.
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Jan 26, 2018 16:39
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Are the harbor freight breaker bars okay? I know they replace their hand tools if they break, so I would think so. Is one with the adjustable angle head worth the extra money?
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Jan 27, 2018 01:45
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