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I've been getting some very minor surging at low speed the last couple of months, and a cursory google indicates this could be caused by any of half a dozen different things from desynced carbs to a dodgy IG coil. Where's the best place to start troubleshooting in terms of what I can rule out and/or fix myself, bearing in mind I've never touched a fuelling system before?
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Jan 24, 2018 23:32
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I'd give it an Italian tune up and replace the plugs as a first step. If that doesn't help you could try and check for spark quality but I don't really know how to do that. Had the bike been sitting at all? If not, carb sync never hurts.
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Jan 24, 2018 23:46
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Renaissance Robot posted:I've been getting some very minor surging at low speed the last couple of months, and a cursory google indicates this could be caused by any of half a dozen different things from desynced carbs to a dodgy IG coil. Which bike? I'd look at plugs, carb sync/pilots, a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak if it's big enough.
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Jan 25, 2018 02:17
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 All those little spots are from the bike just being left out in the weather. Is it possible to clean up the chrome with the right product or are those fairings hosed (visually, structurally they're totally fine)?
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Jan 25, 2018 03:16
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You can scrub it with aluminum foil and WD-40 and it will take the rust off, but because the steel is exposed in the pits, it will always rust again eventually unless you have it re-chromed.
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Jan 25, 2018 03:47
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XYLOPAGUS posted:I'd give it an Italian tune up and replace the plugs as a first step. If that doesn't help you could try and check for spark quality but I don't really know how to do that. Had the bike been sitting at all? If not, carb sync never hurts. Slavvy posted:Which bike? I'd look at plugs, carb sync/pilots, a vacuum leak or an exhaust leak if it's big enough. 2001 ZX6E. It's not been sitting but it did only get used for short slow hops for a couple of months in autumn. Thanks for the input, I'll start at plugs and work my way backwards. e/ okay gently caress that, turns out it's surging at all speeds and revs, it's just only noticeable in lower gears. Tried giving the beans in 2nd and 3rd on the motorway this morning and as soon as I stopped accelerating and levelled off the bike started surging really noticeably. The surges are a lot stronger at high speed. Seems like that's probably definitely an air/fuel issue? Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 08:34
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robotsinmyhead posted:I dunno where else to ask this: In order: No. It’s registered and titled in your name. Just need to make sure theyve signed wherever the release is and you keep a copy of the payoff letter. No, as long as your name is correct and you’re not super-OCD.
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Jan 25, 2018 14:45
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Knifegrab posted:
What sagebrush said. You can also remove the fender and soak the whole thing in vinegar, or more effectively, phosphoric acid.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:37
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I mounted a fresh set of tires myself for the first time. Went pretty easily, I didn't have too much trouble getting everything put together, but the rear has an audible air leak at the bead. Now what? Unmount, remount, hope it takes?
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Jan 26, 2018 04:04
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Deflate, break the bead, check you haven't torn the sidewall, swear a lot, rotate the tire 180 degrees and try again. If that doesn't work you have a dinged rim. E: I'll bet you feel dumb not paying a shop twenty bucks to do it
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Jan 26, 2018 04:21
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RadioPassive posted:I mounted a fresh set of tires myself for the first time. Went pretty easily, I didn't have too much trouble getting everything put together, but the rear has an audible air leak at the bead. Now what? Unmount, remount, hope it takes? It worked for your dad
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Jan 26, 2018 04:24
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PO seems to have partially stripped the heads pf the JIS screws holding the top cover onto my front master cylinder (2005 KLR650). I'm going to try borrowing a JIS driver from work on Monday and seeing if there's enough left on the heads to back them out, either way I am going to be replacing them. Should I go with hex or regular Phillips (assuming there's no secret reason JIS heads are necessary)?
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Jan 26, 2018 05:16
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Get hex ones to fix it permanently. E: also in future this situation is best handled by an impact driver Slavvy fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jan 26, 2018 |
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Jan 26, 2018 05:23
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Those screws are recessed into the reservoir cap, I'm not sure cap screws would seal properly. Worth a shot, though.
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Jan 26, 2018 07:47
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Confirming that hex reservoir bolts are good poo poo and easy to safely break loose if the threads corrode, just don't overtighten them. The secret advantage of JIS heads iirc is that they're actually harder to strip than phillips providing you only ever use a JIS screwdriver on them, which nobody ever does because who in the gently caress even owns one? If PO did have a JIS driver though they would also be easier to overtighten if they were a wazzock (a problem phillips is designed to fix by having rounded corners at the crux of the bit whereas JIS has the slots meet almost at a right angle, which is why phillips bits are so good at drilling out JIS heads) so you'd still probably want to reach for an impact driver.
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Jan 26, 2018 08:38
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Awesome, will do. I can probably get a JIS bit + impact driver from work assuming the guy is there on Monday, then it'll be time to bleed and install SS line. Am also going to try and get 6mm hex bit for that as well - there are a few stubborn bolts on the parts bike frame standing in my way of complete disassembly.
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Jan 26, 2018 09:03
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Renaissance Robot posted:who in the gently caress even owns one? Mechanics.
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Jan 26, 2018 09:19
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RadioPassive posted:Unmount, remount, hope it takes? Yes. Same thing has happened to me. I took it off, deflated and just pressed it off the bead with my foot - the underlying problem being that it hadn't seated properly. Sprayed on some soapy water and inflated/deflated many times, using close to 50 psi at times before it seated with a groan instead of a ping. I wasn't too happy about that, but the the tire wore out fine. Just a reluctant orifice, that's all.
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Jan 26, 2018 10:07
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Knifegrab posted:
I’v no clue what bike this is or what status or money value it has, but if it is a ”nice bike”, it’s not super expensive to have it re-done at a locla shop or some craftmanship school. I had some similar looking dirt guards for an old motorcycle re-done for 90$ and they looked really great. Just jank it out, and carry it to a shop.
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Jan 26, 2018 14:45
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Renaissance Robot posted:The secret advantage of JIS heads iirc is that they're actually harder to strip than phillips providing you only ever use a JIS screwdriver on them, which nobody ever does because who in the gently caress even owns one?  me
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Jan 26, 2018 18:55
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Linking for anyone who wants to buy a handy one: https://www.google.com/search?q=muji+screwdriver+set
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Jan 26, 2018 19:38
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what is with people on craigslist acting super offended when you shoot down their 30% off asking price lowball? No I dont want to give you a person I dont know who has never even seen the motorcycle yet a free 1/3rd off for no reason. You just know that if they cant afford a $3000 motorcycle and all they have is $2000 they probably cant afford to insure and maintain it properly. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Jan 26, 2018 |
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Jan 26, 2018 19:49
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Slavvy posted:Mechanics. Who [in the community of POs we buy used motorcycles from] even owns one? Clearly not enough or we wouldn't run into stripped JIS heads so often.
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Jan 26, 2018 19:52
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Renaissance Robot posted:Who [in the community of POs we buy used motorcycles from] even owns one? Clearly not enough or we wouldn't run into stripped JIS heads so often. Yeah people who have them are a statistical blip admittedly.
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Jan 26, 2018 20:31
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The real secret is to buy motorcycles that were never maintained, so all of the JIS heads are pristine. Then buy JIS screwdrivers because you need to catch up on maintenance, use them once, and sell the bike.
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Jan 26, 2018 20:35
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I occasionally work on Japanese X-Ray machines at work and they are predictably festooned with JIS screws - I don't own a JIS screwdriver. I am part of the problem.
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Jan 26, 2018 21:06
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Knifegrab posted:All those little spots are from the bike just being left out in the weather. Is it possible to clean up the chrome with the right product or are those fairings hosed (visually, structurally they're totally fine)?
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Jan 26, 2018 22:59
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JIS screwdrivers are great. Anecdotal evidence: Honda uses JIS screws on their generator shrouds, I used to use Snap-On and Craftsman screwdrivers on these, which sometimes required breaking out the impact driver due to corrosion. After buying the JIS screwdrivers, the only time I need the impact driver (with JIS bits) now is when someone else has gotten to them first, but the JIS screwdrivers will usually work through that as well. Truly magical.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:34
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JIS drivers have that funny aspect where the screwdriver you need is always one size bigger than the one you think you need. After working on cars for half a decade and getting used to just using whatever screwdriver fit the hole, it was difficult to get in the mindset of selecting screwdrivers the way you use sockets or whatever.
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Jan 27, 2018 01:26
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Right? I always used to use #2 Phillips in P3 JIS stuff. Also, for anyone considering them, you only really need P2 and P3 for everything moto-related. I also highly recommend the thru-tang ones that you can beat on when you're faced with PO fuckery; these also have a hex on the shank for those stupid tight screws.
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Jan 27, 2018 01:38
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The real secret to JIS screws is this: Don’t buy JIS screwdrivers, just hit the JIS screws with an impact driver with a regular ol Phillips bit in it and replace them with Allen sockets. Pro-Mode: grab the JIS bit by the head with vice grips and twist it out and replace it with Allen sockets
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Jan 27, 2018 01:58
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Super Slash posted:This has basically been my winter albeit less severe than yours, all I do is pour some cheap cola over the rust spots and scrub them with a little ball of aluminium foil. Takes it right off but it isn't a long term fix, being its cold wet and the roads are loaded with salt it comes back in few days. https://www.amazon.com/ACF-50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant-Compound-Aerosol/dp/B000P1C8UO/
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Jan 27, 2018 04:42
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The real secret to JIS screws is this: This. I have a JIS set but for the most part, screws were so far gone it required vice grips or an impact driver to get un-stuck. If you MUST keep the JIS screws looking pretty then use a JIS driver. I got pretty good at using a ball peen hammer to knock em loose and a JIS driver pushed VERY tightly in there with my Popeye forearms making a quick jerking motion to break that initial tension against the head. If you can replace them with something else, do. Just make sure that if you use dissimilar metals that you use some form of loctite or paint or something to keep them from bonding forever.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:43
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The real secret to JIS screws is this: Same. Nobody ever scratched their paintwork or cut their hand open with an allen wrench.
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Jan 27, 2018 10:28
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:pushed VERY tightly in there with my Popeye forearms making a quick jerking motion to break that initial tension against the head. Stop that or you'll go blind.
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Jan 28, 2018 01:18
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Who had that funky way of cleaning rotor buttons again? Involving some kinda bolt contraption? Mine are gunked af again
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Jan 29, 2018 15:17
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Take a bolt that fits thru the button and a nut and clamp the button in them, then turn it with a ratchet while you spray it with brake cleaner. Works great
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Jan 29, 2018 15:41
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Jan 29, 2018 15:59
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This is going to be kind of a dumb question but... I honestly am a little stumped. I'm a newish rider, did the MSF and all that, but first personal bike. I got a 2015 CBR300R and I've been enjoying plenty, that thing is so easy to lean. But... I can't get the mirrors to adjust right and I don't know what the hell I am doing wrong. No matter how hard I work I can't really get a clear view behind myself, if I adjust the mirrors so that I have the angle to look behind myself all I see is my arms, and not what cars are behind me. Are the stock mirror stalks just too stubby? I'm not a huge fat guy or anything, I'm 5'6" and 140 (hence the tinybike), but unless I tuck my elbows quite uncomfortably into my gut I can't see a drat thing behind myself. Should I get one of those fisheye mirror inserts or something? Am I just missing something really obvious?
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Feb 1, 2018 20:00
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Mirconium posted:This is going to be kind of a dumb question but... I honestly am a little stumped. I'm a newish rider, did the MSF and all that, but first personal bike. I got a 2015 CBR300R and I've been enjoying plenty, that thing is so easy to lean. But... I can't get the mirrors to adjust right and I don't know what the hell I am doing wrong. No matter how hard I work I can't really get a clear view behind myself, if I adjust the mirrors so that I have the angle to look behind myself all I see is my arms, and not what cars are behind me. Are the stock mirror stalks just too stubby? I'm not a huge fat guy or anything, I'm 5'6" and 140 (hence the tinybike), but unless I tuck my elbows quite uncomfortably into my gut I can't see a drat thing behind myself. Should I get one of those fisheye mirror inserts or something? Am I just missing something really obvious? Welcome to bikes. A lot of models have poo poo mirrors, especially sport or sport faux styles. Bar end mirrors might be worth looking into, or aftermarket mirrors with wider/taller stalks. I have the same issue as you do and use bar ends and love them.
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Feb 1, 2018 20:11
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