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I'm debating moving my woodworking shop into my unfinished basement from my unheated garage(its been way too cold to work this winter). However I'm concerned about dust since this is connected to my living area via the stairs and venting. One thing I was considering is having my dust collector remain in the garage and just run a 4" pipe into the basement with some kind of remote starter. If I use a 2 stage collector for chips and have that in the basement I can empty it relatively easily without having to trudge outside. Would negative major airflow be an issue if I am venting outside? The garage would be closed so would that also have an issue with its own airflow? I know nothing about this but it seems like it could be an issue. I'm also considering building a wall with a door to block things off from the stairs even further, but that alone wouldnt be 100% seal, plus I want the actual shop to remain as dust free as possible for health reasons when Im working. Anything else I haven't thought about or other ideas?
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Jan 22, 2018 18:24
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If you are blowing air from the basement outside, you would have air from the rest of the house moving into the basement. Dust from the basement would generally not move against the airflow into the house. Even just a curtain in the doorway into the basement should be plenty to avoid any issues.
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Jan 22, 2018 18:52
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Hubis posted:Bad seal/mechanical connection around the drain? tetrapyloctomy posted:Gremlins. After a lot of close up inspection it looks like it's a combination of two things: 1) Hairline fractures in the shower stall base through which water is leaking when we stand in the shower, and 2) other hairline cracks in the bathroom floor tile grout that are "wicking" water away over to the master bedroom carpet. Still not certain but that seems to be the direction we're heading in.
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Jan 22, 2018 18:56
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Don't you already have a door at the top of the stairs into the basement to stop the spiders escaping into the house and all your heat escaping into the basement?
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Jan 22, 2018 18:59
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Hieronymous Alloy posted:Update: I had this happen in my house growing up. Fiberglass insert with no mortar bed or anything supporting it underneath+a couple thousand showers=broken pvc collar that separates and pours water into the downstairs ceiling when someone was in the shower but was relatively sealed up when nobody was standing in it. The biggest hassle was finding a drywall dude willing to come out to mud and sand a 3x3 hole in the downstairs ceiling used to access the drain to fix it.
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Jan 24, 2018 02:59
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I continue to find it shocking to this day that suburban residential water heating systems and washer/dryer systems cost upwards of four figures each. Absolutely unbelievable
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Jan 24, 2018 22:29
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A3th3r posted:I continue to find it shocking to this day that suburban residential water heating systems and washer/dryer systems cost upwards of four figures each. Absolutely unbelievable I just bought a returned-but-unused Bosch 500 Condensing Dryer from Lowes for $40, marked down from $1199.99. Works great. The returned and scratch/dent poo poo can get stupid cheap at Home Depot / Lowes especially if sits around for a week or two.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:08
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stupid puma posted:Fiberglass insert with no mortar bed or anything supporting it underneath This is how the jetted tub in our new house (closing Friday wheeee) was apparently installed. Previous owners had it that way for 7 years before our inspector found it floating two inches above the subfloor, held up only by the tub edges. We had them fix it.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:43
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Ooh, water damage chat! (Skip to the photos if you wish, since they may be all you need to know.) So we recently took on a DIY project that probably should not have been DIY. We wanted to replace the shower faucet/handle assembly -- or as little of it as possible I guess -- in the master bathroom, because when we flipped the diverter to go from faucet to shower, it barely made any difference whatsoever in how much water continued to come out of the faucet. Figured it would be a relatively easy way to reduce our water bill. Fiberglass tub-style shower. (Brief backstory: 2-story Colonial house built in 1987, used as rental property until we bought it last June, so most things are in "good but could be better" condition.) After we shut off the water and unscrewed the faucet assembly, we had a lot of trouble detaching the interior "cap" which I could describe in more detail but it's beside the point. (Googling "shower Delta cap" reveals this to be a common problem.) One thing led to another and we ended up misjudging the situation and in the process, broke a pipe. About 2 hours after the actual break, we noticed it was leaking. We put a plastic bag on it. A few hours later it had collected enough water to make us worried. But having done basically all we could do for the night, short of paying an arm and a leg for an emergency plumbing housecall, we just had to leave it. Pretty early the next morning -- yesterday -- a plumber came over and fixed the pipes, installed the new faucet, etc. (We also now have a handy trap door on the other side of the wall to see how the pipes are doing.) Obviously they checked their work and everything seemed good. But last night, I noticed this stain on the ceiling of the living room directly below:   (If you look closely, there is a very slight "bulge" near the stain as well.) Of course, I didn't stare at this particular spot in the ceiling the night before, so I have no idea how it looked back around the time the leak was actually, definitively happening. But if I touch the spot now, it doesn't feel particularly wet. Possibly a little damp, like slightly cold? We've looked at the pipes through the trap door with the water turned on, in all configurations, and so far have not witnessed any leaking. The stain does not look any different this morning. My best guess, given all the information, is that this stain is the result of that one night where it was leaking, but the leak is now fixed. Does that seem likely, and is there anything else I should be looking out for? Also, assuming there's no more leak, do I have to do anything like "air it out" or is it probably as dry as it's gonna get?
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Jan 25, 2018 17:13
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Sir Lemming posted:Ooh, water damage chat! (Skip to the photos if you wish, since they may be all you need to know.)
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Jan 25, 2018 17:29
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I'd drill a hole in it and see if water collected. You're going to have to repair it at some point anyway. If you use a hole saw, say 2", you can also replug the hole with what you remove if you're careful, which means only a weird skinny ring of smooth spackle on an otherwise textured ceiling instead of a more obvious defect. Would you not just drill a little hole and spackle it?
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Jan 25, 2018 17:36
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Unless you've a boroscope a bigger hole is easier to look through.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:02
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w00tmonger posted:Would you not just drill a little hole and spackle it? cakesmith handyman posted:Unless you've a boroscope a bigger hole is easier to look through.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:27
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My smallish (roughly 20'x24') 2 car wood-framed garage that was likely built in the 40's or 50's has a slab that is cracking badly. That crack runs the perimeter of the garage. There are also some cracks in the middle of the floor, and circular areas where the slab has bubbled.  It could be patched, but it would just be a neverending patch job since the old slab is shifting. The garage sits near an alley, and there are regulations regarding garage placement; if I were to tear it down and start over, it would have to be moved, and space is limited. Also, the structure of the garage is intact and in good shape, and it has a fairly new roof. So I'd like to salvage it if possible, and then add insulation and heat because I spend an inordinate of time in the garage tinkering. So my question is, is it possible to raise the building up a few feet, demo the slab, pour a new slab, and lower the garage back down? I wouldn't be doing this myself, I would hire a local pro. Obviously, anything is possible with enough Trump Bucks, so I guess the real question is, would it economically feasible? Gorson fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jan 26, 2018 |
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Jan 26, 2018 00:13
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I've seen people demo houses down to the frame and raise the whole thing on blocks to redo it from the foundation but still count as a remodel instead of a new build to avoid some permits and inspections. Your local laws may vary but I think it's a reasonable option for a simple structure like a garage.
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Jan 26, 2018 00:18
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Could you get away without lifting it and instead just support it while you demo the slab. You could do it in a number of smaller sections and support the structure using either internal supports, temporary external supports or slip blocks under the walls to take the weight while you dug it out and repoured it....
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Jan 26, 2018 00:52
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Gorson posted:My smallish (roughly 20'x24') 2 car wood-framed garage that was likely built in the 40's or 50's has a slab that is cracking badly. Why not just get some garage flooring? http://racedeck.com/ is apparently good. Seems like it would be way, way cheaper then replacing the existing slab.
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Jan 26, 2018 01:36
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How do you de-texture a wall? Some walls in my house are smooth and have the blobby kind of texture which isn't too terrible, and some have texture sharp enough to feel like a cheese grater on your hand. If I wanted to get rid of the latter, would I just sand the poo poo out of it and paint?
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Jan 26, 2018 02:10
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Thanks for the leak tips, I'll have to see if I can drain it some time this weekend. We're eventually planning on some nearly floor-to-ceiling cabinet type things in that same area, so imperfections in the ceiling are no big deal. (Well, additional imperfections.)
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Jan 26, 2018 02:24
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peanut posted:I've seen people demo houses down to the frame and raise the whole thing on blocks to redo it from the foundation but still count as a remodel instead of a new build to avoid some permits and inspections. This is a possibility, though if I went that far I think I'd just build a bigger, more modern garage in a spot that would meet regulations. There is clearance (10' from the house, 15' from the street or alley) for a decent sized garage, but just barely. This would also require a new 15' driveway to the alley. devicenull posted:Why not just get some garage flooring? http://racedeck.com/ is apparently good. Seems like it would be way, way cheaper then replacing the existing slab. If you look at the second pic you can see part of the slab sits higher, the slab has cracked into sections and they are shifting vertically. I don't think that flooring would work well on an uneven surface. Tomarse posted:Could you get away without lifting it and instead just support it while you demo the slab. You could do it in a number of smaller sections and support the structure using either internal supports, temporary external supports or slip blocks under the walls to take the weight while you dug it out and repoured it....  This could work and if I do it by section I might be able to pull it off by myself. I could first get the old slab out fairly easily without touching the structure because it has separated from the foundation. What about a cinder block foundation, then a slab poured inside that perimeter?
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Jan 26, 2018 02:32
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Gorson posted:
I'm not a professional engineer and have never seen your garage but if it is somewhat like the wooden sheds I have dealt with you could DIY something like this: So first empty your garage fully and remove the doors to reduce the weight and improve access. I'd also be tempted to remove any glass windows if it has them. Then you are left with something like this:  Then break out a T shape in the old slab going under the centres of each wall and dig out to your chosen depth. Add extra garage supports standing on the old slab if you think it needs them here (in red). I would just use 2x4's for this and screw them to the wall joists.  Then shutter it and pour new concrete into that section going under the walls (you will need to dig out and shutter on the outside of the walls too) Remember that you need to join your multiple seperate new pours together. If you were using rebar in your new slab and wanted to use this to help join the parts you will need to remember to lay your rebar out extending into the old area and shutter round it.  After you have done this you can work through the remaining old sections, relocating any supports as required. I'm sure someone else can say more about best practice for joining seperately poured concrete sections together, but since this is only a small single storey wooden home garage/workshop I don't think that strength of the overall slab is going to be a massive issue.
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Jan 26, 2018 13:14
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well my bathroom fan is dead so time for a new one...are these panasonic whisper fans worth the extra money? seem well made from the installation videos i saw on youtube. https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-05VQ5-WhisperCeiling-Ceiling-Mounted/dp/B003YO36E6/
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Jan 26, 2018 23:05
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BraveUlysses posted:well my bathroom fan is dead so time for a new one...are these panasonic whisper fans worth the extra money? seem well made from the installation videos i saw on youtube.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:29
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BraveUlysses posted:well my bathroom fan is dead so time for a new one...are these panasonic whisper fans worth the extra money? seem well made from the installation videos i saw on youtube. They're the gold standard these days. I wouldn't install anything less. We got the 150CFM model and it moves some serious air in our tiny little bathroom.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:38
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Tomarse posted:I'm not a professional engineer and have never seen your garage but if it is somewhat like the wooden sheds I have dealt with you could DIY something like this: This is fantastic. Thank you. There is a fair amount of weight that can be shed (no pun intended). It has asphalt shingles for siding (yep) and I'd like to replace it with not-dumb siding so this would be the time to rip that all down. It must be several hundred pounds worth.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:52
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Gorson posted:This is fantastic. Thank you. There is a fair amount of weight that can be shed (no pun intended). It has asphalt shingles for siding (yep) and I'd like to replace it with not-dumb siding so this would be the time to rip that all down. It must be several hundred pounds worth. Given the era of construction, you might want to check and make sure those aren't asbestos-laden shingles before you start tearing them off.
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Jan 27, 2018 00:54
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Magnus Praeda posted:Given the era of construction, you might want to check and make sure those aren't asbestos-laden shingles before you start tearing them off. Worth looking into. AFAIK asbestos shingles and tiles were hard, like slate. These appear to be just standard floppy asphalt shingles. Did they ever combine the two?  Ideally I'd also like to install a new header, remove the center post and heavy wooden doors, and install a single insulated aluminum door. A door on the side where the hose hanger is would also be nice, currently the only way in is the overheads.
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Jan 27, 2018 17:41
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cakesmith handyman posted:dividing up our downstairs which is currently fairly open plan, but suffers from no clear division of purpose, I'm in the midst of building the stud wall for this project and it's taken me ages to identify the purpose of random lumps of wood in the ceiling. Lessons learnt so far: buy a proper drywall jab saw. Oscillating multitools are incredible where no other tool fits. A 25mm adjustment to my plan would have simplified one section of the new wall considerably.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:31
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm in the midst of building the stud wall for this project and it's taken me ages to identify the purpose of random lumps of wood in the ceiling. Oscillating saws are also awesome for precise cuts in drywall.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm in the midst of building the stud wall for this project and it's taken me ages to identify the purpose of random lumps of wood in the ceiling. Rotozip is 100% worth it if you're going to be doing a bunch of drywall work. It's way, way quicker then a drywall saw. The only downside is it produces tons of dust.
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Jan 27, 2018 20:49
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There is nothing precise about the mess I'm making of the current drywall. Oh another thing, drywall ruins every blade you put near it.
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Jan 27, 2018 20:50
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Gorson posted:Worth looking into. AFAIK asbestos shingles and tiles were hard, like slate. These appear to be just standard floppy asphalt shingles. Did they ever combine the two? Huh. I can't say I've ever seen those used like that so I thought you were talking about the hard kind. There were some asphalt roofing shingles that included asbestos (because the 1930s-1950s was basically "put asbestos in EVERYTHING!") but it's less common. Might be worth getting an expert to come look at it to make sure, but you're probably in the clear. I'm looking forward to seeing that garage all spiffed up! The side entry will be great, too.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:53
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Magnus Praeda posted:Huh. I can't say I've ever seen those used like that so I thought you were talking about the hard kind. There were some asphalt roofing shingles that included asbestos (because the 1930s-1950s was basically "put asbestos in EVERYTHING!") but it's less common. Might be worth getting an expert to come look at it to make sure, but you're probably in the clear. Yeah it was "asbestos in your coffee, in your socks, sprinkle some on your children's oatmeal for extra flavor!" back then. The house is brick, so they chose the shingles to imitate that. The color matches almost perfectly and from 50 feet away it does actually look like brick. I'll probably replace it with vinyl, which sucks but is cheap and durable.
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Jan 28, 2018 14:36
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It actually doesn't look bad, so if it's holding up well I wouldn't touch it for the time being. (But this could just be because I look around my own place and see the patch of ceiling that I haven't bothered properly to skim-coat, consider the spots in the finished attic that also need patch work, think about the ticking sound I hear in the bathroom with running lots of water, think about the water softener I still haven't purchased, remember that the HVAC guy is supposed to get back to me about an air-handler motor and a humidifier system, etc., and just conclude, "I'm sure the moment I tried to re-side a garage I'd want the money for something else.")
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Jan 28, 2018 16:21
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That garage is kawaii af, I'd just add a side door and a non-cracking foundation.
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Jan 28, 2018 23:04
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tetrapyloctomy posted:It actually doesn't look bad, so if it's holding up well I wouldn't touch it for the time being. (But this could just be because I look around my own place and see the patch of ceiling that I haven't bothered properly to skim-coat, consider the spots in the finished attic that also need patch work, think about the ticking sound I hear in the bathroom with running lots of water, think about the water softener I still haven't purchased, remember that the HVAC guy is supposed to get back to me about an air-handler motor and a humidifier system, etc., and just conclude, "I'm sure the moment I tried to re-side a garage I'd want the money for something else.") It's chipping a bit in places but not too bad. But yeah the money could be spent more wisely. For example my sidewalks that have sunk a full 2" below the surface. There is also the matter of 500 square feet of unfinished attic that would be easy to finish out and add a huge amount of value to the house. peanut posted:That garage is kawaii af, I'd just add a side door and a non-cracking foundation. I'm an old and had to look that word up, but thanks! Did you see the little homemade wooden birdhouse by the window? The garage (and house) are both very  .
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Jan 29, 2018 22:47
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My backyard needs a deck, and I've never built one before but there's a first time for everything. I'm pretty handy with this type of thing, but I don't want to Grover it, and everything I've read online makes me wonder if this is waaay more complicated than I think. I want to keep it low to the ground, though I've read low-level wood decks will rot away in no time (my yard really sucks at draining, but I live in Dallas so the rain isn't super frequent). My foundation comes up really high, so my thought is I could build a 16x20-ish free-standing deck that sits just below it with some landscape fabric and deck blocks. If it rots, then I've wasted a lot of time and money but I don't have concrete poo poo buried in my yard at least. Am I a moron? Another problem I have is the mound of dirt that rises up to meet my house. Is it okay to dig the blocks into that so they're all level, or do I need to clear that out? The foundation was repaired right before I moved it but it seems like all the houses in my neighborhood "float" like this.   
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Jan 30, 2018 23:40
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Friend posted:I want to keep it low to the ground, though I've read low-level wood decks will rot away in no time (my yard really sucks at draining) I'm no building expert, but you're going to want some kind of footing in there. Check with your jurisdiction about what you want to do, print out those 3 pictures and a sketch showing rough dimensions with you. Even if it doesn't rain frequently, if your ground is always damp and you irrigate that lawn of yours it's going to be double the work in no time flat to rebuild it. Pour some concrete footers at the correct intervals and stand your deck off those using the correct metal post/concrete anchors into pressure treated wood.
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Jan 31, 2018 00:07
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Friend posted:My backyard needs a deck, and I've never built one before but there's a first time for everything. I'm pretty handy with this type of thing, but I don't want to Grover it, and everything I've read online makes me wonder if this is waaay more complicated than I think. It should only be “floating” on piers added during the foundation repair, unless it’s older than it looks, in which case it’s probably on a pier and beam foundation. Should be pretty easy to tell what you have...floor vents for the AC and a wonky floor usually are indicators of the latter. Do you have the foundation report from the inspection? Or the repair warranty (which should have been transferable if done by previous owner)? Not sure why exactly there’d be a mound of dirt to meet your foundation other than that it just got there somehow by previous owners watering the yard to keep vegetation around the foundation (which is what you want), but when in doubt call a foundation specialist or engineer out and ask them before you do anything. E: The dirt is probably FROM the foundation repair after looking over your photos closer (first one looks like from a listing photo?), and the foundation definitely looks slab to me. So again the dirt is probably from that repair, because they have to dig under it, put the house on jacks, and put in piers. Still maybe ask the company who did it what is safe and not safe to do before messing with anything foundational. life is killing me fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jan 31, 2018 |
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Jan 31, 2018 15:18
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Our fancy professional deck's slab is anchored to the house foundation. Lacking such tools and know-how, leave a 2cm gap between the deck and house and you'll be good. I would definitely at least float it on a grid of cinder blocks. What's your vision for deck usage? Ours is just 270 x 180 (9x6 feet) but it still gets plenty of use for playing and picnics because it's in the right location.
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Jan 31, 2018 23:49
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