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tehk posted:Can someone confirm that mid to late 1960's Chevys did not have models on their titles? Is there a door count? To the DMV are these cars listed as 68' Chevy or were they later retrofitted with model info? Would a 67 Chevelle and a Corvair essentially be the same thing according to the title/dmv? That's entirely a state issue. My 1966 Corvette's title in OK, UT, and NV I think all have said "Corvette."
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Jan 28, 2018 17:49
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I just got a 2002 PT Cruiser. I get a grinding sound when going under about 25 MPH and when turning right. I am pretty sure the sound is coming from the front passenger wheel. Took it off today and snapped the photo's I am linking below. From my Youtubing and Googling I guess it is either the CV Axle, Ball Joint, or Wheel Bearing. Could maybe be the pads and rotors which I am hoping for and took the wheel off to look at them because that is about all I can do. Anyway if you look at what I assume is the Lower Control Arm or Knuckle to the left of the CV Axle does that screw look really bad to you and maybe the problem aside from the lovely rotor and pads? Thanks! https://doncorleone.imgur.com/all/ First 8 pics fe; maybe it is cambering and I am an idiot, idk anymore Michael Corleone fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 01:29
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Does anybody make one of those 150-250ish piece toolset cases, but with only metric? Something kobalt / craftsman / etc level quality.
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Jan 29, 2018 09:57
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I goes my problem is a bad lower control arm bushing. I don't remember steering wheel vibration, but my picture looks exactly like a Youtube video I just watched of a 2003 Neon which is basically the same as a cruiser. This isn't going to fall off or anything if I drive off the highway for a couple miles the next couple days until my dad can look at it, right?
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Jan 29, 2018 14:41
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I had the timing belt and pulleys/tensioner replaced on my 2001 ford zx2, and the timing belt is slowly working itself towards the front of the sprockets/pulleys. I've been taking the timing cover off and pushing it back towards the middle of the sprockets before each drive. Is there a trick to setting the tension just right so it doesn't walk itself free? The tensioner model looks like the GATES T43003 on this page: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,escort,2.0l+l4+dohc,1420490,engine,timing+belt+tensioner,5721 
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Jan 29, 2018 16:41
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Something isn't tightened up properly, or the tensioner or pulley is bent. Pull it off and/or shim it I guess?
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Jan 29, 2018 17:02
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I did a timing belt on my Zetec-powered Focus about two years ago. There should have been a set of instructions that came with the timing kit, IIRC the tensioner needs to be adjusted with an Allen key inserted into the hex pattern, then tighten the bolt down enough that it doesn't move around but not too tight that you can't adjust it. Then it's basically guess and check the position until the belt stops walking in either direction.
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Jan 29, 2018 19:28
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Triikan posted:Does anybody make one of those 150-250ish piece toolset cases, but with only metric? Something kobalt / craftsman / etc level quality. There's a tools thread over in DIY. You might want to ask there.
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Jan 29, 2018 20:17
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Can a Toyota hybrid limp to a gas station if it completely runs out of fuel? Not that I have any intention of trying, since I assume it could require draining the batter lower than is optimal.
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Jan 29, 2018 20:51
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Something isn't tightened up properly, or the tensioner or pulley is bent. Pull it off and/or shim it I guess? The shop might have overtightened it. I backed it off some and made the arrow point at the little window. The belt moved outwards a little right when I started the engine, but it stayed there while running and after stopping and starting the engine again. Good enough I guess  Before adjusting:  Running it after adjusting:   After I stopped it again (the thing is spring loaded and moved a little to the right while running) 
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Jan 29, 2018 20:53
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Can a Toyota hybrid limp to a gas station if it completely runs out of fuel? Not that I have any intention of trying, since I assume it could require draining the batter lower than is optimal. Not really. It will go a short distance on battery alone before it completely shuts down to protect said battery. You can’t just fill it up and go after running out either. It will need the codes cleared before it will attempt to start again, or if you managed to go too far it will need the battery charged at the dealer. Don’t do it.
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Jan 29, 2018 22:29
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Info: 2007 Kia Rio, 1.6L 153K miles I'm having a weird problem where my girlfriend's Rio will stall while driving for a second, causing the belts to squeal like crazy, the battery light to come on/headlights dim for a moment, and the seatbelt light to start flashing. This happened several times today, both at highway speeds and at low, <30 speeds. There is also a low, harsh, rumbling type of noise coming from the engine - I can't quite tell if it is the power steering pump or something else though. Even after doing the screwdriver-as-a-stethoscope trick on the power steering pump and the engine body. Oddly enough, it does not throw a single code even after doing this several times inside of a minute. Nor does it have a particularly noticeable pattern - I've tried to find some kind of consistent condition to trigger it but so far I'm coming up short. I've tried braking hard then gunning it, letting it roll almost to a stop and gunning it, letting it roll almost to a stop and accelerating at a constant rate, nothing seems to make it happen consistently. I did manage to coax a cylinder 2 misfire code out of it, but that never got past a pending and I wasn't able to get it back after clearing the pending code out and trying again. Cylinder 2 is the last one in the firing order, however, so my gut feeling is the misfire is a byproduct and symptom of whatever the hell is going on. I figure it's most likely the power steering pump or the water pump - has anybody else experienced something like this? I've dealt with failed power steering pumps before, but when they gave out they basically stopped creating pressure. I've run into failed water pumps as well, but they just had corroded and stopped moving coolant around - I've never run into one of them(or any other accessory on the belt system) that caused the engine to stall out intermittently. Admittedly I have not had time to do much comprehensive troubleshooting - I was planning on removing the power steering belt and drive around the block a few times to see if the rumbling noise did or did not cease to try and eliminate/confirm it as the problem source. But that probably won't be able to happen until Saturday, and I was hoping perhaps somebody else's experience could help me focus troubleshooting efforts.
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Jan 30, 2018 08:41
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IIRC, those run the water pump off of the timing belt (not 100% on that). So your power steering, AC, or alternator are trying to seize up. Or maybe an idler/tensioner pulley. First thing, make sure the AC is off (the ac will still run if the HVAC is set to defrost). Still happening? Remove the serpentine belt. With the key off, spin each pulley by hand. Whatever pulley doesn't spin easily and smoothly is your culprit. Going to guess it's the PS or alternator. If you have multiple belts, remove all of them (except for the timing belt, but that should be tucked away behind a cover). If the HVAC has been on defrost, the compressor is likely, but you won't notice that unless you have the key on/ac on/engine off when trying to turn the ac pulley (or jumping the ac clutch relay). With the AC clutch engaged, the compressor won't turn easily, but it should still turn smooth-ish (no feeling of grinding, or metal on metal, or any of that). If there's room, you can grab the center portion of the AC pulley instead of loving with electrical; that's the part that actually spins when the clutch engages. FWIW, right before my AC compressor locked up, I had the exact same thing happening, but it locked up within an hour of initial symptoms. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 09:35
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Also, do those tests on a cold engine. If the compressor is locked up, or in the process of locking up, the clutch on it can get REALLY loving hot. Like roast your finger if you so much as graze it hot.
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Jan 30, 2018 14:54
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Quick question. I'm changing the gear oil in a "speed reducer" Its more or less a winch mounted on one of our machines. Worm gear and straight gear in this bitch. It uses straight 80w90 gear oil. I've never changed it since we bought the thing (used) and I have no idea if the previous owners did or not. Should I dump a bit of seafoam in there to clean up any sludge? or just run the winch line in and out a bunch of times to warm poo poo up and just drain it as is?
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Jan 30, 2018 15:50
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Unless it gets really hot during operation I wouldn't worry about sludge forming inside. Sludge is the end result of lighter molecules burning/evaporating and leaving the heavier stuff behind in a semi-solid state and you typically only see it in engines. Gearboxes tend to be sealed/mostly sealed units and as a result there's little opportunity for the gear oil to escape. I'd drain it after its been in operation long enough for the housing to get warm, then check the state of the fluid that gets drained before taking further action. As long as it just looks like used oil you should be fine. If you want to be really thorough Blackstone will do analysis on gear oil. Geoj fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Jan 30, 2018 |
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Jan 30, 2018 16:01
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Can a Toyota hybrid limp to a gas station if it completely runs out of fuel? Not that I have any intention of trying, since I assume it could require draining the batter lower than is optimal. The older ones will let you do this to the point of draining the battery below 30% and requiring a special HV battery charge at the dealer. Depending on charge you'd be lucky to get 1 mile at 25mph. The newer ones will stop you.
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Jan 30, 2018 16:31
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Good advice "IOwnCalculus" posted:Good common sense Thanks, glad to know it's not likely to be something far worse like the timing belt being trashed. These have an interference engine so my fears about this being related to timing belt-related issues (and potentially having trashed a valve or piston already) are allayed. I was trying not to look for zebras instead of horses when I was hearing hoofbeats, but zero codes getting thrown from this was loving weird and threw me for a loop.
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Jan 30, 2018 17:03
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If I'm never supposed to get under a car with just a jack, what do I do about jacking up the engine when changing the motor mounts? Can I get a jack stand under there too? If it matters, 4.9L i-6 in an f150. Don't wanna crush my hand.
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Jan 30, 2018 19:43
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Jack B Nimble posted:If I'm never supposed to get under a car with just a jack, what do I do about jacking up the engine when changing the motor mounts? Can I get a jack stand under there too? If it matters, 4.9L i-6 in an f150. If you're using an engine hoist you can put a post to essentially lock it out at whatever height you need (4x4" is probably a safe bet) to ensure it doesn't lose pressure when it's got the motor. If you're jacking up the motor then I'd use stands and wood to make sure the motor's not supported by the jack.
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Jan 30, 2018 20:29
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I would absolutely put jackstands under the engine if I was changing the mounts. A jack is inherently unstable, it's a single point of contact. Jacks slip, jacks fail, jacks hate you and want to kill you. Buy a few more jackstands and be safe and happy. I can re-post the story from the Emergency Room nurse about the patient who accidentally parked his Honda on his own face if somebody needs that reminder.
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Jan 30, 2018 21:35
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ExecuDork posted:Jacks slip, jacks fail, jacks hate you and want to kill you. My Christmas present to myself last month was a new 3.5 ton jack. While taking it out of the box and assembling it, I managed to pinch my right hand right in the corner by the base of my thumb. I ended up needing 6 stitches. The nurse asked if I wanted a tetanus shot. I told her it was brand new painted steel and I was literally taking it out of the box. And it wasn't even put together yet! Make no mistake: the only natural predator of humans are jacks. There's a reason farmer jacks are known as "widowmakers".
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Jan 30, 2018 21:58
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Rude, all this hate, but I'll see if my current stands reach the engine. In my head the engine is higher than the side rails of the chassis but what do I know.
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Jan 30, 2018 23:38
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There's a bit of "be smart about it" involved in that particular repair. I wouldn't remove more than one mount at a time, and I'd see what your actual range of motion of the engine is with the mount removed (within reason). Where you won't be able to avoid it sometimes is when you have to line up the bolt holes - say you've got the mount bolted to the engine but need to get the bolt from the mount to the frame lined up. Every car I've done that on I've needed to play with a floor jack to do so. The upshot is that for all but the smallest floor jacks, this is a trivial amount of load.
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Jan 30, 2018 23:43
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rdb posted:Not really. It will go a short distance on battery alone before it completely shuts down to protect said battery. You can’t just fill it up and go after running out either. It will need the codes cleared before it will attempt to start again, or if you managed to go too far it will need the battery charged at the dealer. Don’t do it. Got it. I was leaning that way with how quickly the battery drains when running just on the electric motor, but I wasn’t sure. I know at least the Volt plug-in tries to run on just electric for 40+ miles, but I wasn’t sure if the Toyota conventional hybrids would even do it for a few miles. Speaking of Toyota hybrids, my proximity unlocking fob started having to be closer and closer to work and now it doesn’t work at all. The button still works. Is it probably the button battery in the fob?
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Jan 31, 2018 01:36
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Update on my own stupid question, I tested all the accessories today and to my delight they all turned smoothly which meant I had to resort to other methods. So, I selectively removed belts and found that A) it's definitely not the A/C(thank god, that's such an expensive hassle to fix), B) it's definitely something on the water pump/alternator side. The crankshaft drives the water pump and alternator directly, and the water pump has a secondary pulley which drives the power steering pump, so unfortunately I can't drive the power steering without driving the alternator as well and test each item individually. So I did the wiggle test like you do for bad wheel bearings and found that the water pump wiggled ever so slightly when pressed on at 12/6 or 3/9 o'clock. Given the choice of betting on a new part to test with, I chose the $60 waterpump rather than the $260 alternator. Several hours and a huge mess later(Rios make you remove an engine mount, the timing belt, and the crankshaft pulley to swap the waterpump, and leave a poo poo ton of coolant trapped in the engine even after you drain it, turns out) I had a brand new water pump installed and buttoned the rest up. Started up the car for the first time, sounded good! Nice and smooth, no harsh grinding/rumbling noise. So I went out for a drive, got about a mile in and was feeling hopeful, then the belt slipped again. But, this time it didn't stall the car or set off the battery light, just a momentary, very quiet belt slip that didn't impact the crankshaft's rotation at all. I could only get it to slip once or twice more afterwards, I drove a good 4-5 miles total and had no slips after those first ones while the engine was cold. A different noise appeared after the slippage, much quieter than before but still not one I should be hearing. More of a low humming that changed pitch with RPMs. So given all this it seems likely I've gotten unlucky and a combo of things have started to go bad simultaneously. Given the car is at 153K(ish) and had 100K of that put on by its PO(who was a bank teller with 2 small children and definitely did not prioritize car maintenance) it's not surprising that I may have run into a situation where there are concurrent issues stacking up at once - I know the alternator has been at least partially submerged a couple times in the last 2 1/2 years from hitting pooled water during storms and 153K is a pretty good lifetime for the bearings on the water pump(it was definitely OEM). When I get home tomorrow I'm going to remove the power steering pump's belt and try driving around the neighborhood for a while, and see what happens. No noises, no slippages - definitely the power steering pump going bad. Noise/slippage, alternator needs replacement. If the PS pump has gone bad, is it better to flush out the system using the failing pump, or install a new one and then flush it out? Instinct tells me to use the bad one to flush so you don't exposed the new one to any shavings/contaminants, but I've never done it before and it's way overdue for a flush anyways. A detail had forgotten to mention before - both belts powering the alternator and power steering pump are less than a year old. I did examine them for any fouling today with nothing to speak of. So I'm fairly confident these latest slips are not just a result of the belts being old/fouled.
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Feb 1, 2018 06:50
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I was scrapping out my ice covered car today and I hit the rubber seal around my windshield:   Did I gently caress up my car?
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Feb 1, 2018 16:47
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My girlfriend bought a 2002 Honda Metropolitan and was only able to fill up at one particular pump at one specific Shell gas station. She’s had problems at other stations where she is unable to pump gas and now we’ve moved away from that Shell. Extremely dumb question but I haven’t had the time to go to a station with her. Is there some trick to getting the handle to catch?
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Feb 1, 2018 17:18
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Kilersquirrel posted:Several hours and a huge mess later(Rios make you remove an engine mount, the timing belt, and the crankshaft pulley to swap the waterpump, and leave a poo poo ton of coolant trapped in the engine even after you drain it, turns out) I had a brand new water pump installed and buttoned the rest up. Tell me you put in a new timing belt while you had it apart. It's supposed to be done either every 60k or 90k depending on year model on the Rio.
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Feb 1, 2018 17:50
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Kilersquirrel posted:Update on my own stupid question, I tested all the accessories today and to my delight they all turned smoothly which meant I had to resort to other methods. What where the symptoms of the first ps pump? It could be something up in the actual steering gearbox. First i would get a new belt. Once a belt slips even once its downhill from there and it will want to slip on a non serpentine setup which the power steering section is basically. A belt that has previously slipped is definetly more prone too it. Also pull the cap off the ps pump resevoir and jack the front wheels off the ground. Turn lock to lock 20 times with the engine off and check for bubbles in the ps fluid. If there are bubbles in the lines that should clear them and if there is like a leak introducing air, the bubbles wont stop forming and there is a problem. If you did this when you installed it and there are now bubbles again thats a problem. And check for signs of excessive heat around the ac clutch like discoloration and make sure the ac clutch isnt dragging when its not engaged. EE: oh and as for which to flush yeah flush with the old one and add a inline filter on your new one. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Feb 1, 2018 |
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Feb 1, 2018 18:47
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Professor Shark posted:I was scrapping out my ice covered car today and I hit the rubber seal around my windshield: I'm having a really difficult time parsing these picture.
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Feb 1, 2018 19:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I'm having a really difficult time parsing these picture. Me too. Professor Shark, can you draw on a picture with MS Paint or something, show us where you think you damaged it? It's really uncommon for people to damage their car scraping ice off of it. Literally millions of people do it every time it snows, so basically SOMEBODY is scraping their windows at all times between October and April. Yet you don't hear about auto-glass shops getting swamped when it's icy - their seasonal business picks up in the spring, when the gravel previously spread on icy roads gets tossed at every car following every big truck. ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 1, 2018 |
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Feb 1, 2018 21:08
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I'll try to take better pictures tomorrow, but basically the rubber seal (gasket?) around the edge of the windshield is split for about a 1" section, caused by me trying to hack at the ice.
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Feb 2, 2018 00:01
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Professor Shark posted:I'll try to take better pictures tomorrow, but basically the rubber seal (gasket?) around the edge of the windshield is split for about a 1" section, caused by me trying to hack at the ice. When it warms up & dries up, get yourself a tube of black, or clear, silicone caulk. Roll back/carefully pry up the gasket at & on either side of the rip. Clean the area thoroughly with denatured or isopropyl alcohol. After it dries, run a bead of the caulk along the windshield and let the gasket back down on it. Gemtly push it down, wiping off excess with at least a thousand paper towels. Leave in a warm & dry place over night. Later, you can scrape cured residue off the glass with a razor.
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Feb 2, 2018 02:11
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I live in Canada and we’re at least two months away from not-frozen-hellscape weather, is this repair something I can put off for the time being? I’m somewhat concerned about water getting under it and freezing, messing things up for my windshield.
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Feb 2, 2018 13:02
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Professor Shark posted:I live in Canada and we’re at least two months away from not-frozen-hellscape weather, is this repair something I can put off for the time being? I’m somewhat concerned about water getting under it and freezing, messing things up for my windshield. Just looks like a minor surface scuff to me. If you are concerned, you could slap some vaseline over it as a temp fix.
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Feb 2, 2018 13:13
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2014 Acura RDX Tech - Rear backup camera All of a sudden all three views from my backup cameras are showing a black screen. I believe there are two different cameras on the vehicle (One to provide a straight reverse view at just above license plate level and another to provide a birds eye view of the bumper.) This leads me to believe that there must be a problem with the wiring or a connector from the cameras to the monitor. My wife took it to the dealership today and they said its probably the camera, which will cost approx. $800. If it's the camera, why am I having trouble with all three camera views? I've exhausted google for a wiring diagram. Does anyone have resources to help me troubleshoot this before shelling out $800? Wiring diagrams, or some sort of repair walkthrough would be extremely helpful. Over the winter the image on my rear backup camera would get a little blurry. Not super weird, I assume there is just some moisture on the lens etc. and backup cameras are not known to be the greatest in terms of image quality. It's possible the camera shorted out or something because of moisture, but that doesn't explain all of the views going black at the same time.
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Feb 3, 2018 00:18
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spog posted:Just looks like a minor surface scuff to me. I ended up stopping by Apple Auto Glass today and the guy came out (in the pouring rain) and looking at it with me for about 10 minutes. He decided that while there was a small break, it wasn't really that big a deal and wouldn't cause any damage. He did not charge me for his time, I was happy.
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Feb 3, 2018 01:30
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Not that it matters because my friend already bought the car, but I thought the new Jeep Grand Cherokees were lemons, but I don't remember why I thought that. Am I right?
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Feb 3, 2018 02:28
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They're loving ugly, at least.
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Feb 3, 2018 02:38
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