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Mirconium posted:This is going to be kind of a dumb question but... I honestly am a little stumped. I'm a newish rider, did the MSF and all that, but first personal bike. I got a 2015 CBR300R and I've been enjoying plenty, that thing is so easy to lean. But... I can't get the mirrors to adjust right and I don't know what the hell I am doing wrong. No matter how hard I work I can't really get a clear view behind myself, if I adjust the mirrors so that I have the angle to look behind myself all I see is my arms, and not what cars are behind me. Are the stock mirror stalks just too stubby? I'm not a huge fat guy or anything, I'm 5'6" and 140 (hence the tinybike), but unless I tuck my elbows quite uncomfortably into my gut I can't see a drat thing behind myself. Should I get one of those fisheye mirror inserts or something? Am I just missing something really obvious? It's not you, it's the mirrors. If you google "cbr300r mirror extenders" a good portion of the hits are folks in forums asking where to buy or best brand of mirror extenders. If you don't like the options, there's always bar end mirrors. I don't like them because it makes he bike "wider", but it is better than staring at your shoulders. There's also straight up after market mirrors as well. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-mirror-extensions http://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-mirror-wideners-honda-cbf600-04-07 https://www.ebay.com/i/232378227645?chn=ps As a former MSF instructor, "TURN YOUR HEAD and LOOK!" Skreemer fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Feb 1, 2018 |
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Feb 1, 2018 20:17
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On my bike the stock mirrors pretty much show your elbows until you tuck them in, but you can grab the mirrors off a different model and they're better. I never bothered, but it may be worth checking bike specific forums since your bike is so common, someone has probably had the same issue. It does make me neurotic about doing a head check before I change lanes though.
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Feb 1, 2018 20:18
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Just get a Reevu 
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Feb 1, 2018 20:26
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LOL
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Feb 1, 2018 20:37
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Get some extenders for your stock mirrors and also the bar-end mirrors. Then go full Quadrophenia and start adding mirrors left and right until you can finally see everything. Turn your head my rear end!
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Feb 1, 2018 21:29
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Get bar-end mirrors -- they have a much better angle of view, and unless you're lane splitting the extra "wideness" doesn't matter. Make sure you get ones that are big one enough (3+ inches). Also just get used to turning your head around. Checking your blind spots is mandatory in a car, and it's more important on a motorcycle.
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Feb 1, 2018 21:49
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Sagebrush posted:Also just get used to turning your head around. Quadrophenia.
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Feb 1, 2018 22:06
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Do they make a motorcycle version of the Wink mirror that was offered in the BMW 2002?
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Feb 2, 2018 03:35
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My rear tire is worn down to the bars but my front has more life in it, do I need to replace them in pairs? I'll keep the same tire on either way (Q3s).
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Feb 2, 2018 23:16
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people replace tires separately and mix brands all the time. As long as you arent tracking the bike and need a specific consistent performance level from your tires its fine. Just get something high quality and there wont be a problem. Most people wear out 2 rears before replacing a front. Depending on the bike it may be worth it to get something other than the stock tires again. Budget bikes often get pretty poor tires stock and as little as $30 more can make a huge difference.  You can be like these cool guys and get an ultra long wearing car tire. Turning is for suckers. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 23:28
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yea i'm on like rear tire #3 with the original front still on. fuckin contractors dropping nails everywhere
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Feb 2, 2018 23:29
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Good to know, I've been doing tons of freeway riding and maybe hitting the throttle too hard because I wore the center down to the bars, but the sides still have tread. Fauxtool posted:Depending on the bike it may be worth it to get something other than the stock tires again. Budget bikes often get pretty poor tires stock and as little as $30 more can make a huge difference. The stock tires are very good on this bike, but supposedly terrifying in the rain, so I swapped them out for Dunlop Q3s, which also have good traction, but do pretty well in the rain (at least I've felt comfortable on them when it's pouring, but I haven't tried to push a corner too hard if it's wet). It looks like the Q3+s are out now, supposedly they have 20% longer life, which I'll happily take. Dunlop's website recommends higher pressures now too, 38 in the rear, weird.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:51
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Fauxtool posted:people replace tires separately and mix brands all the time. As long as you arent tracking the bike and need a specific consistent performance level from your tires its fine. This is the most meta advrider joke ever and I love it.
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Feb 3, 2018 14:00
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I ran Q2's a long time ago and they wore out super fast. I'm not sure if the Q3's are any better, but the Qualifier series has always had a reputation for absolute poo poo life. If you are doing a lot of freeway miles you might want to look into different brands.
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Feb 3, 2018 16:59
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jfc when will people learn not to use photobucket?
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Feb 4, 2018 00:28
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honda trail needs a rebuild. Leaking oil and it appears a crank seal has been going out as it is smoking white smoke. Any guides for rebuilding one of these? I have no problem tearing down a two stroke and this would be my first four stroke.
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Feb 4, 2018 04:33
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stgdz posted:honda trail needs a rebuild. Leaking oil and it appears a crank seal has been going out as it is smoking white smoke. Is that like a CT110 (postie bike here in Australia)? There is heaps of info out there about those. I've found Facebook groups to be really useful for info and cheap spares. It's really about all I use FB for now these days.
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Feb 4, 2018 05:25
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Hate to double-post, but: Could I get recommendations for commonly-used consumables to keep stocked? I have a fair bit already but got a bit overwhelmed looking at stuff all the different types of thread locker/antiseize, etc. Already have: JB Weld  Engine oil DOT4 brake fluid Air filter cleaner + oil Chain lube Penetrating oil Brake cleaner Carb cleaner Degreaser
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Feb 4, 2018 08:57
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10mm sockets
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Feb 4, 2018 09:06
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Copper grease for thread protection/anti-seize. A huge pile of fabric rags. (this is probably the most important one)
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Feb 4, 2018 09:49
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I have a new question! I'm finally getting around to hooking up the fuse box I built, and need a couple of ring crimp terminals for the main power leads to the battery. I have absolutely no idea which ones to get. There's millions of these things in various sizes and presumably with different current ratings. The wire I'm using is thin wall 3mm2 rated for 33A, and while I'll only be running up to about 6A through the fuse box for now I'd like to be consistent and have the terminals rated for at least as much as the wire. Or maybe current rating isn't really a thing for the terminals and I only need to worry about the size of the wire and the size of the hole the battery bolt goes through? 
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Feb 4, 2018 10:22
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Fauxtool posted:10mm sockets Buy them in packs of 100. Add waterproof grease and Loctite blue to the list, and Simple Green for general light cleaning.
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Feb 4, 2018 14:28
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+white lithium grease spray, PTFE spray, brake clean spray and throttle body/carb cleaner spray.
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Feb 4, 2018 15:12
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graphite lube for lock cylinders. seconding grease, high pressure moly will be fine. loctite 242, 247 I use acetone for general cleaning of metal parts. (do not use this on plastics!) for a penetrant mix it with some automatic trans fluid. copper antiseize is fine. Renaissance Robot posted:I have absolutely no idea which ones to get. There's millions of these things in various sizes and presumably with different current ratings. The wire I'm using is thin wall 3mm2 rated for 33A, and while I'll only be running up to about 6A through the fuse box for now I'd like to be consistent and have the terminals rated for at least as much as the wire. 3mm^2 is close to 12awg. Use yellow ring terminals. buy either nylon (translucent) or naked and heatshrink over it. Yellow ring terminals are generally rated for 40-50A, don't sweat it.
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Feb 4, 2018 18:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:I have a new question! I'm finally getting around to hooking up the fuse box I built, and need a couple of ring crimp terminals for the main power leads to the battery. Pick the one that fits over the terminal. Pretty much by definition it'll be capable of dealing with the current.
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Feb 4, 2018 19:50
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 -shiny side up HJL Fauxtool posted:
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Feb 4, 2018 21:03
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I have an 04 SV with ~ 36k miles on it. It still has the original coolant hoses and fuel line which are supposed to be replaced every ~4 years or so. There are no leaks on either and they look fine, is this something I should replace now as a precautionary measure? I suppose it wouldn't hurt and should last the rest of the life of the bike, so why not.
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Feb 6, 2018 15:19
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It would be like $25 in hose parts, so you might as well. Otherwise, they become stiff and can crack over time, leading to unexpected leaks and annoying removal when they do have to be removed (such as when repairing/maintaining something else on the bike).
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Feb 6, 2018 15:32
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bsamu posted:coolant hoses and fuel line which are supposed to be replaced every ~4 years lol
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Feb 7, 2018 06:55
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Feb 7, 2018 07:10
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emptyquote into oblivion
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Feb 7, 2018 09:27
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Replacement schedule: when they break, sell the bike.
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Feb 7, 2018 13:52
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So almost as often as a starter clutch on an MV?
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Feb 7, 2018 16:19
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ya the schedule seemed uh ... impressively ambitious. I also haven't found the molded hoses for that cheap.
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Feb 7, 2018 21:02
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They put that stuff in purely as a CYA exercise in case someone's brake line perishes in Dubai or something, if you live anywhere besides a sweltering hellhole or a frozen wasteland it'll be fine.
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Feb 7, 2018 21:09
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My GoPro Hero Session 5 arrives tomorrow, any better places to mount it than the side of my helmet? Not vlogging so I don't care about wind noise or anything like this, just wanted it for around town and upcoming track day.
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Feb 7, 2018 21:23
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I like watching the ones with a gimbal setup on the tank, I think it’s a cool effect
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Feb 7, 2018 21:33
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MomJeans420 posted:My GoPro Hero Session 5 arrives tomorrow, any better places to mount it than the side of my helmet? Not vlogging so I don't care about wind noise or anything like this, just wanted it for around town and upcoming track day. Chin mount is the best. I've seen some neat shots too low on the side of the bike. Use the WiFi and your phone to experiment.
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Feb 7, 2018 22:21
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MomJeans420 posted:My GoPro Hero Session 5 arrives tomorrow, any better places to mount it than the side of my helmet? Not vlogging so I don't care about wind noise or anything like this, just wanted it for around town and upcoming track day. Yeah, what Keket said. Chin mount has always worked well for me. Keep in mind that some trackday providers won't allow you to have a helmet- or even a body-mounted camera. I had to attach it to the bars and then safety-wire it to the bike.
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Feb 7, 2018 23:37
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Hmmm, looks like chin mount will give a better view of the bike and controls, at least that way if I gently caress up everyone can tell me I grabbed too much front brake or something like that. I'll go play around with different locations this weekend. It felt like side mount would be more out of the way, but I'm not sure why chin mount feels like it'd be in the way. I guess chin mount seems like it would get in the way tucked, but I'm usually too worried about scratching my tinted visor on my windscreen to try and fully tuck anyway (not that I need to for freeways). re: trackday - this is a gokart track with dirt so I think they're more liberal, at least I've seen pics of guys with a helmet mounted cam there A MIRACLE posted:I like watching the ones with a gimbal setup on the tank, I think it’s a cool effect OK the gyro stabilized tank mounts might be a necessity, this is pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjueRW0L-kA MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 01:09
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