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Giant Isopod posted:How does VMC Black Grey compare to VMC German Grey? Darker than German Grey, and I think a little less blue. Black Grey is perfectly highlighted by VMC Basalt Grey, and shaded by a black wash. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 2, 2018 |
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Feb 2, 2018 22:29
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dexefiend posted:Darker than German Grey, and I think a little less blue. Which wash do you use in particular? When I use army painter dark tone it gets pretty gloss looking, while its really the matte effect of VMC black grey that I love so much.
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Feb 2, 2018 22:51
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Booley posted:Does anyone have any advice for traveling with hobby supplies? I'm going to be spending a week and a half in a hotel room on the other side of the country and don't want to spend all my evenings watching TV. I'm planning on getting all the airbrush work done on a couple squads that I can bring, and I'll check a bag. My biggest question is about a palette, since I use a wet palette at home but I'm not sure it'll travel well. The citadel palette pad seems overpriced, but its also the only thing I can see on amazon smaller than 9x12. I'm assuming weight/size isn't unlimited. So usually dollar stores have a selection of those little clear plastic trays that click shut and have little dividers. I use them for small delicate paint brushes and tools. Ziplock baggy a few paint pots, and check art stores for palette paper book things, they have more selection of sizes though not necessarily better prices. And I mean actual art stores not loving Michaels (most areas have a supply store where all the cool art school kids go) Big McHuge posted:I live in an apartment in the frozen north. However, I have a spare bathroom with a fan. If I put a towel on the bottom of the door and wear a mask, I should be alright with priming a single miniature in there, right? Totally can, but get a shoe box or something to catch over spray or your walls will catch particles/get dusted. I wouldn't even bother with the towel if the fans on, but generally I don't care either. moths posted:Why are you nerds buying so many? You only have one butthole. Don't assume how much I can stuff up there  
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Feb 2, 2018 23:09
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dexefiend posted:Darker than German Grey, and I think a little less blue. Thanks for the answer, and double thanks for the highlight and shade. I've been doing a lot of futzing around with near-blacks and not happy with them so this is much appreciated.
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Feb 2, 2018 23:59
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I use VMC Dark Gray highlighted with VMC Basalt Gray and then washed with Army Painter Dark Tone and I think it looks great.
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Feb 3, 2018 00:32
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So I finally decided to try and learn how to paint with an airbrush since I have a bunch of tanks left for my marines. I have the first razorback/rhino I hand painted (still minus all detail work and iconography):  But I don't think the scheme works with the Vindi, pred and Whirlwind I have left, I'm debating painting every tank with a different pattern, like heraldry on old shields, or painting each class with a different scheme (IE duping the rhino/back and doing something new with the other models. I like the idea of painting the softer targets with the tan facing and the more durable units with blue facing as if to draw fire. I'm playing with this here:  (Can you tell I'm not artsy?)
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Feb 3, 2018 04:14
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Philthy posted:Gold star. Just making sure Ivory and Hull Red were on there and they are. For this recommended paint list, has their been any consensus on the best "effects" type of paint? Terrain, slime, blood that sort of thing.
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Feb 3, 2018 17:15
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I got a carnifex and a few stealers done this week.
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Feb 3, 2018 19:31
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Painting my first non-bones miniatures and I'm struggling with paint thickness a lot. I'm using reaper paints and VMC and thinning with a 1:1 ratio of water, but the paint seems super thin and isn't sticking to the mini the way that they did for the bones. I have to do 5-6 coats to get a solid base coat, and even then the high points still seem lighter than the other parts. I realize I could just not thin the paint as much, but I keep reading that that's a rookie mistake. Part of it could be that I'm trying to paint a really textured part of the mini (a fur cape), and the only other factor that's different from bones is that I primed this one with krylon colormaster white primer. Just wondering if anyone has any advice? Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 21:21
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I'm hoping to crowd source some wing color ideas and opinions. The pics are a bit over saturated and washed out, but the models are a contrasting teal and purple (Sotek Green to Temple Guard Blue, Xerxes Purple to Genestealer Purple/Emperors Children) with an accent of grey (Eshin Grey to Administratum Grey). They're not blended yet, but I'm looking forward at how I want to the wings and looking at peacock feathers and MSP suggested rainbow coloring, like a parrot. What are your thoughts? Peacock like feathers would be hard, but doable. I'm concerned that it may be too "green" as I plan to use the same colors as the armor. But I can also break up the wings with purple on the inner sections that move into green on the outer?  My first redone (rough) Swooping Hawk below:  
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Feb 3, 2018 21:22
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Finally finished!  
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Feb 3, 2018 21:32
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Good choice of color palette and nice blends on that sword. Ace!
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Feb 3, 2018 22:18
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Victory Lap!Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Well that turned out pretty drat good.
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Feb 4, 2018 04:30
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For the first time I used an airbrush to basecoat an army with exactly what was required and I'm really happy with how quickly it all went down. I have to ask though, is there an intermediate step between using it purely for basecoat and going bananas with masking?
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Feb 4, 2018 08:48
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Southern Heel posted:For the first time I used an airbrush to basecoat an army with exactly what was required and I'm really happy with how quickly it all went down. I have to ask though, is there an intermediate step between using it purely for basecoat and going bananas with masking? Yeah, you can start doing some basic shading/highlighting as well without any real masking. Just spray a lighter color onto the raised surfaces.
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Feb 4, 2018 08:49
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If applied some GW crackle paint too thin, to the point of there being no crackle in some areas, is there any reason I should just slather some more of it over those parts?Mikey Purp posted:Painting my first non-bones miniatures and I'm struggling with paint thickness a lot. I'm using reaper paints and VMC and thinning with a 1:1 ratio of water, but the paint seems super thin and isn't sticking to the mini the way that they did for the bones. I have to do 5-6 coats to get a solid base coat, and even then the high points still seem lighter than the other parts. I realize I could just not thin the paint as much, but I keep reading that that's a rookie mistake. Are you priming before you paint? Priming is not really optional for non-bones minis. e: ok you are, I missed that somehow... I thin by feel but 1:1 seems really thin to me for a basecoat. Some Reaper paints are also pre-thinned, I forget which line that is though. Thick your paints imo.
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Feb 4, 2018 18:23
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The Moon Monster posted:If applied some GW crackle paint too thin, to the point of there being no crackle in some areas, is there any reason I should just slather some more of it over those parts? Yeah no reason why not, though I would put down a darker colour first before the second coat of crackle, so that it shows through when it cracks.
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Feb 4, 2018 21:27
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Anybody out there with a bottle of Vallejo Model Air black grey, #71.056, and if so, is your batch way more green-grey than black-grey?
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Feb 4, 2018 22:44
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You can add water to those crackling paints to get more medium and a different crackling effect. Don't overdo it though. Something like 8:1 crackle:water is the sweet spot. Southern Heel posted:For the first time I used an airbrush to basecoat an army with exactly what was required and I'm really happy with how quickly it all went down. I have to ask though, is there an intermediate step between using it purely for basecoat and going bananas with masking? I airbrush all my small bright color blocks, like red or white, after I prime. Highlights and everything. Then I mask those up and then do the rest of my base colors.
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Feb 5, 2018 01:29
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Hi all, I'm wondering if there's a good place to go for bulk 40k-scale scenery bits (windows, gun mounts, walkways, statues, etc)? My wife and I decided to make an Imperator Titan for some reason, and so we'll be in need of a shitton of bits. Already checking out Pegasus and Secret Weapon Miniatures, so got those. Much thanks  .
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Feb 5, 2018 02:19
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Victory Lap! So while I love most of this, I think having the tabard be the same bone colour as the helm and shoulders misses a trick. IMO it should be the same red as the rope.
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Feb 5, 2018 07:01
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Crossposting from, Historicals thread, I decided that I spend way too much time painting for a substandard result, so I deliberately did these as quickly as possible while still being somewhat relaxed, I think it was about 4 hours all told:  BULBASAUR posted:I airbrush all my small bright color blocks, like red or white, after I prime. Highlights and everything. Then I mask those up and then do the rest of my base colors. I think I need more practise then - I can't imagine being able to hit anything so small as to only catch a small highlight.
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Feb 5, 2018 10:04
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Thanqol posted:So while I love most of this, I think having the tabard be the same bone colour as the helm and shoulders misses a trick. IMO it should be the same red as the rope. I can see the appeal, and I'll admit I hadn't thought of that. In retrospect I think I prefer the white for the tabard; I like using red as an accent color (rope, purity seals, buttons) and I would be worried that if I made the tabard red it would detract too much from the overall style. I might think about using it for my Captain, or I might stick with the notion that the more "bone" color in the uniform the higher the rank.
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Feb 5, 2018 16:25
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Mikey Purp posted:Painting my first non-bones miniatures and I'm struggling with paint thickness a lot. I'm using reaper paints and VMC and thinning with a 1:1 ratio of water, but the paint seems super thin and isn't sticking to the mini the way that they did for the bones. I have to do 5-6 coats to get a solid base coat, and even then the high points still seem lighter than the other parts. I realize I could just not thin the paint as much, but I keep reading that that's a rookie mistake. Honestly, there is no hard and fast rule about thinning, because all paints are different. Also, thinning to the consistency of "skim milk" is a terrible way to describe anything. It's just something you have to play with. My first question is are you shaking your paints really well? It take a lot of mixing for these paints and your paint may be in a glob on the bottom of the jar while you're just using colored water. You can get tiny (5-6mm) glass or hematite beads pretty cheaply, and they help with paint agitation when you put them in the bottles (the droppers pop right out.) You can also get a brush handle in the bottle and see if you can stir things up. What I do is put a couple of drops in my palette, then wet my brush and drop a couple of drops of water into the paint, then stir it up. If you're doing it correctly, the first coat should look kind of bad, and not quite cover. The second coat should cover everything. At absolute most, you might do a third coat - anything more and your paint is way too thin. Get a model with large surface area, like a Space Marine - prime it up and test your technique out on a large, flat surface. At least you'll be able to determine if it is your paint or just a trick of the lighting on contours.
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Feb 5, 2018 17:52
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How many beads per pot do you guys recommend? 2?
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Feb 5, 2018 18:01
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I’ve put two beads in each of mine, mainly because I ordered waaaay too many. It seems to work though
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Feb 5, 2018 18:05
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Zuul the Cat posted:How many beads per pot do you guys recommend? 2? It depends on what you're using. For a while I used hematite, because it doesn't rust, but I only put in one bead per pot because hematite is fragile and two hematite beads banging against each other could conceivably shatter. And for my metallics, I used glass beads (hematite is magnetic and I'm paranoid about the metallic pigment; this is probably unreasonable) -- and again only used one per pot, because, well, glass. I've since switched to stainless steel, and I use two per pot, but the trick is stainless steel will rust unless you get the high-end stuff -- the quality of steel marketed as stainless has really declined over the course of the last fifty years or so, and unless you're buying marine grade, you'll end up with tiny rusted balls shedding what is effectively red-brown pigment into your paint. I decided to trust these because they're specifically sold as paint pot agitators by a hobby paint and model shop, but before that I only knew I needed marine grade steel and wasn't willing to trust random ebay sellers to actually be selling what they claimed to be.
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Feb 5, 2018 18:45
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I just use one, though two might be better, since I've noticed that one bead tends to go right up that nozzle and get stuck sometimes.
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Feb 5, 2018 19:09
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Stephenls posted:And for my metallics, I used glass beads (hematite is magnetic and I'm paranoid about the metallic pigment; this is probably unreasonable) -- and again only used one per pot, because, well, glass. My understanding is metallic paint flakes are typically mica.
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Feb 5, 2018 21:30
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What type of tape do you guys recommend for masking off painted portions of vehicles for designs? Going to try to mask off my Hemlock & add black stripes with a rattlecan.
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Feb 5, 2018 22:10
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People recommended Tamiya masking tape to me
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Feb 6, 2018 01:06
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I can see the appeal, and I'll admit I hadn't thought of that. In retrospect I think I prefer the white for the tabard; I like using red as an accent color (rope, purity seals, buttons) and I would be worried that if I made the tabard red it would detract too much from the overall style. I might think about using it for my Captain, or I might stick with the notion that the more "bone" color in the uniform the higher the rank. If you're going to stick with white for the tabard, at very least make it a different white to the bone white of the armour. That's just visually confusing to look at, it makes it super easy to misjudge the texture of the cloth. A smooth ulthulan-grey white shaded with agrax would be way preferable IMO. Do a test model, at least.
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Feb 6, 2018 12:00
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Thanqol posted:If you're going to stick with white for the tabard, at very least make it a different white to the bone white of the armour. That's just visually confusing to look at, it makes it super easy to misjudge the texture of the cloth. A smooth ulthulan-grey white shaded with agrax would be way preferable IMO. Do a test model, at least. The quality of the picture isn't very good, but I specifically used a wet blending technique instead of drybrushing to differentiate between the cloth and ceramic. I spent a lot of time experimenting with other colors and whites and ultimately that's what I settled on. I appreciate the input though; it's helpful to run through what I did and make sure that I am sufficiently comfortable in my method.
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Feb 6, 2018 13:59
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I'm looking to magnetize my bases and my storage/transport boxes instead of dealing with foam, as Chaos Space Marine stuff is too spikey. I was curious if anyone else has done this. I bought a couple sturdy plastic boxes (Really Useful Boxes brand), but now I need to find the right sized magnets and something to attach them to. So a few questions: Which size rare earth magnets are perfect for putting under GW bases? I'm looking to do 1 per 25mm/32mm base, 1-2 per 40mm, and 3-4 per 60mm depending on weight. Anyone have experience with these steel infused sheets? http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/magnetic-sheets/75-steel-rubber-sheet-for-magnetic-trays-and-crafts.html Will they be strong enough for army transportation if they are laid down in each box? Is there a different method people recommend? Thanks! Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Feb 6, 2018 |
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Feb 6, 2018 22:11
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darnon posted:My understanding is metallic paint flakes are typically mica. The higher quality ones tend to use aluminum. Which is still not magnetic. As I said, I’m probably just being paranoid.
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Feb 6, 2018 22:30
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I bought a ton of white vallejo primer and white just isn't doing it for me. I don't want to prime black, because I find it is is way too dark for most models and I hate having to paint 6 layers of a light color to even get it visible. I'm thinking Dark Gray is a good middle ground. Is there any reason why I shouldn't mix black Vallejo PAINT (not primer) in with the white Vallejo primer to darken it? I know primers contain resins vs pigment, but I don't know if I am going to chemically screw something up. The Vallejo page says it can be mixed with "auxiliaries" but doesn't mention paints. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/primers/family/22
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Feb 7, 2018 00:05
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Bazanga posted:I bought a ton of white vallejo primer and white just isn't doing it for me. I don't want to prime black, because I find it is is way too dark for most models and I hate having to paint 6 layers of a light color to even get it visible. I'm thinking Dark Gray is a good middle ground. Is there any reason why I shouldn't mix black Vallejo PAINT (not primer) in with the white Vallejo primer to darken it? I know primers contain resins vs pigment, but I don't know if I am going to chemically screw something up. The Vallejo page says it can be mixed with "auxiliaries" but doesn't mention paints. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/primers/family/22 I don't have an answer to your question, but Vallejo's "grey" primer is very light so if you buy more primer be sure to go for "dark grey" or something.
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Feb 7, 2018 00:51
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There’s five Vallejo primers worth mentioning along the spectrum from black to white. Black primer is black. German Panzer Grey primer is very, very close to black but not actually there, and at this point seems to me like the ideal dark primer if you’re not priming in prep for actual like black armor or something. UMS Ghost Grey is closest to what you would expect from a grey primer, being about halfway between their black and white primers. It’s also slightly cool—that is, it has a moderate blue tint. Grey, which you would expect to be close to halfway between black and white, is very light, but has good coverage. Their white primer is both white and covers like poo poo unless you shake it really well and use it unthinned. I’ve found the best zenithal priming solution is German Panzer Grey -> UMS Ghost Grey -> (almost unthinned) White. If you’re not doing fancy bullshit and want a light color that covers well, just their regular grey would probably be ideal. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Feb 7, 2018 |
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Feb 7, 2018 03:04
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What's the best way to paint dots? I want to make a pattern of dots of the same size, but I can't get them consistent with a brush tip.
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Feb 7, 2018 03:08
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Micron pen if they're tiny.
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Feb 7, 2018 04:04
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