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 Been slow as hell to getting around to this update, and I still need to get the videos off of my wife's phone. Decided to do Zip Tie Drags as a day trip this year, so I drove down to Tucson and back on Saturday. Drove in, went through a very quick tech inspection, and parked in a staging lane. Had this pull up (and immediately draw a crowd) right behind me.   They apparently built it in the past few weeks for a grand total of $600. It has "Because Roadkill", somehow two years in a row they have picked the one weekend in January with lovely weather. Friday was 78 degrees and sunny, Saturday peaked at 66 and got much colder around 3PM when the weather really showed up. It was windy all day so after things went sideways on the very first pass down the track (an hour after scheduled), they gave up on trying to keep the track prepped to a full quarter mile and reduced all runs to 1/8 mile only. I don't have the timeslip handy but my numbers for both runs ended up extremely close to each other, as well as very close to what ended up being a 15-flat full quarter run from last year. I didn't seem to have any traction issues so I'm thinking I've gained surprisingly little power, but I'm also comparing against literally one year old runs so who knows. Did some walking around:     Lined up for a second pass, with plenty of time to kill:   Lined up for a third pass, during which they were handing out awards for the car show, and then trying to get the Fans vs F&F runs in:  I went and grabbed lunch (the track food there is surprisingly decent) and while we were standing in line, the temperature dropped at least 20 degrees instantly. So we figured the rain was coming. They got exactly one run in, between the red C10 on the far right and Finnegan in NASCARLO. NASCARLO proved to be unlaunchable again and the C10 beat him, though if it had been a full quarter it probably would've gone the other way. Next up was going to be the yellow junkyard turbo LS Vega on the far left against the dirt Hornet, but, true to form, the Hornet started puking ATF literally right as they pulled it to the water box. By the time they got the Muscle Truck running enough to take its place, it had started raining. F&F did burnouts for distance in the Muscle Truck and General Maintenance, I stupidly didn't grab a photo of the obscene smoke cloud they generated. They called the track lost and did some Q&A, though at this point I was cold enough that we went ahead and took off.
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Jan 24, 2018 22:10
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Is that the Green Hornay that belongs to Finnegan's friend in the second-to-last picture there?
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Jan 24, 2018 22:31
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It is. I think they actually hired him as a photographer or something now.
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Jan 24, 2018 23:45
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Neat. Bummer that the event got blown/froze out.
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Jan 25, 2018 00:14
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No stubby Bob? That thing would be a show stopper all by itself.
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Jan 25, 2018 04:39
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Stubby Bob was there last year, but given how the front suspension looked at the end of its last video... I think it probably isn't remotely drivable right now. Hell, last year it was still broken but at least looked mostly straight. They idled it around though didn't dare lift the front wheels on it. I think they also broke General Mayhem at the end of the episode they just released on MTOD, Rotsun is probably also broke as gently caress, and I think I saw something on Facebook that Draguar apparently tried to kill itself at the start of the cruise at Irwindale. Because Roadkill. 
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Jan 25, 2018 05:19
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You would think that they would make stubby bob a priority though, just because it would be the star of the show at whatever drag strip they went to. Fix the issues and wheelie it all the way down the track, I would go just to see that.
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Jan 25, 2018 06:02
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Given they broke the wheelie bar they built, the track probably isn't keen on them dragging the trailer hitch down the track.
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Jan 25, 2018 06:08
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I'm surprised that light trailer axle and front suspension (or lack thereof) held on for as long as it did. They're lucky that the failure wasn't a lot more catastrophic. I imagine that, much like Sims truck, the front bodywork of that now Roadkill-iconic truck is impossible to come by.
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Jan 25, 2018 13:27
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angryrobots posted:I'm surprised that light trailer axle and front suspension (or lack thereof) held on for as long as it did. They're lucky that the failure wasn't a lot more catastrophic. I imagine that, much like Sims truck, the front bodywork of that now Roadkill-iconic truck is impossible to come by. My buddy has a 48 like Stubby Bob and I think they are just now reproing the front fenders in metal. You can get them in fiberglass for a long time now. A few years ago I know he paid a ton of money for a front fender with minimal rust and dents.
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Jan 25, 2018 18:28
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 That upper ball joint is not breaking free of the spindle for anything. Gonna have to grab a pickle fork along with a ball joint press, because the lower ball joint is drat near seized (and might have been making the noise instead of the control arm shafts). At this point I'm effectively doing a full on front suspension rebuild other than the shocks (which are still in very good shape) and pitman / idler arms. I still haven't had much luck with the "smack the spindle" trick to pop the taper loose, either. The tie rod end and lower ball joint both came out only when I smacked them straight on the threads.
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Feb 5, 2018 00:39
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I've had poo poo for luck with pickle forks. poo poo, I broke one last time I tried. There's a J-xxxxx tool for popping ball joints out of the spindle but like all J- tools, it's $Texas. I built a knockoff out of a bolt, a big nut, a socket, and a couple washers. If you've got hardware laying around, check that out. I remember posting about it in my thread a while back but I don't remember if there are pictures. Edit: This guy:  Yours would obviously have to be a bit longer to reach between the top and bottom of the spindle. Head of the bolt goes up against the ball joint you're wanting to push out; socket goes over the other side's ball joint or against the other castle nut. One wrench on the bolt and one on the nut; then just "loosen" it until it gets long enough to push the taper out. Worked a treat when I swapped my control arms. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 00:58
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I might jack the lower control arm back up and thread what's left of the castle but (had to cut a tip off after the hammering) to provide additional tension.
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Feb 5, 2018 01:52
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I've had great success with the loaned 3-finger ball joint separator from autozone, hit it with your impact and it should come off nice and smooth-like.
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Feb 5, 2018 02:38
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I popped the ball joints on my super beetle by putting the whole control arm (which on a beetle is hilariously tiny) on a couple of planks of wood, wedging some inside the assembly, and lowering the car down and then leaning on it. Popped the ball joint right out. Of course I only had one balljoint because it was a macpherson setup and everything was micromachines sized  On the crown vic I have an ebay version of the 3-finger balljoint press but boy howdy does that thing distort and bend sometimes. Specifically this one: 
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Feb 5, 2018 02:46
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A trick that has often worked in the rust belt is smacking the spindle downard with all the weight of the spindle pulling it down. Right on the top in front of the ball joint. Also let it sit in panther piss and or atf overnight. It will either be fallen down when you come back to it or awaiting more vigorous application of BFH
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Feb 5, 2018 02:51
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Checked the service manual and the GM tool is J-23742. It's essentially a bolt and a really long nut. It's also $180. Edit: Bam https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all11174 Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Feb 5, 2018 |
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Feb 5, 2018 16:56
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That looks neat as hell. If this thing fights me too much more I might get that. I know I can do this without it, I've done it before to put these spindles on in the first place 18 years ago gently caress I'm old
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Feb 5, 2018 19:16
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Haven't touched the truck since the last post. Just lots of boring poo poo. I get to have the fender on the Honda fixed by a paintless dent repair, got a nice new windshield on the Jeep, and then literally while getting into the Jeep afterwards, the driver's window regulator took a poo poo. So now that window is held up by painters tape too.
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Feb 24, 2018 06:09
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IOwnCalculus posted:Haven't touched the truck since the last post. Just lots of boring poo poo. I get to have the fender on the Honda fixed by a paintless dent repair, got a nice new windshield on the Jeep, and then literally while getting into the Jeep afterwards, the driver's window regulator took a poo poo. So now that window is held up by painters tape too. Arent wjs great. My regulator has been having a hard time getting back up. Then the other day I parked a little hard at the gas station aNd the ignition wouldnt budge. And now its developing a small random idle lope. Just empty every pocket.
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Feb 24, 2018 17:43
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After much banging and swearing, got the driver's side suspension completely removed. I lost track of how many gloves I burned through and I'm still covered in grease.    The lower ball joint was super gritty, so I think that's where the noise was coming from.
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Mar 4, 2018 01:01
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I've had poo poo for luck with pickle forks. poo poo, I broke one last time I tried. There's a J-xxxxx tool for popping ball joints out of the spindle but like all J- tools, it's $Texas. I built a knockoff out of a bolt, a big nut, a socket, and a couple washers. If you've got hardware laying around, check that out. I remember posting about it in my thread a while back but I don't remember if there are pictures. My pickle fork looks like a looney tunes exploded cigar on the pounding end but that's mostly because once I'm in a job I'm too loving stubborn to go out and get a better tool to finish it.
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May 15, 2018 06:22
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I just rent them, so they're someone else's problem I pulled the passenger side suspension off too, but haven't done anything to the C10 since. I have changed the rear output shaft seal on the WJ twice again, the second time with a new used driveshaft since clearly the one I got a few years ago just has too much surface finish damage on the slip yoke to not shred seals. Also did a transmission service and finally installed the Lubelocker transmission pan gasket. I shouldn't ever need a tube of RTV again for a transmission or axle service on that thing.
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May 15, 2018 07:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:I shouldn't ever need a tube of RTV again for a transmission or axle service on that thing.  Chrysler, Chrysler never changes.
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May 15, 2018 12:13
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8ender posted:My pickle fork looks like a looney tunes exploded cigar on the pounding end but that's mostly because once I'm in a job I'm too loving stubborn to go out and get a better tool to finish it. Grind that mushroom off. I got nailed just above the safety glasses by a piece from a pickle fork years ago. Ditto with chisels.
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May 16, 2018 05:11
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sharkytm posted:Grind that mushroom off. I got nailed just above the safety glasses by a piece from a pickle fork years ago. Ditto with chisels. I really should but it's almost a matter of pride that the pickle fork has survived this long. Also that when friends see it they can't understand how a 170lb nerd hulked out on it hard enough to do the damage. Perhaps I'll get another and keep it as a trophy.
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May 16, 2018 06:02
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I popped the ball joints on my super beetle by putting the whole control arm (which on a beetle is hilariously tiny) on a couple of planks of wood, wedging some inside the assembly, and lowering the car down and then leaning on it. Popped the ball joint right out. I got one of those but with a less cast look and more hardened tool look. I did my idler arm last week and could only get it 1/4 the way in (no room to hammer it in plus I wanted to save the boot), and that 1/4 way in was mainly on one tooth/side. It still separated the joint and didn't damage the boot and I've used it with susp and tie rods last year, so it's definitely a keeper, and doesn't look bendy when using it and a sharper fork to get in there and seat better. quick pic  Link to aussie store for more clues so someone may work out the same USA retailer or ebay stock http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ToolPro-Tie-Rod-End-Ball-Joint-Separator/377217
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May 16, 2018 13:01
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Fo3 posted:I got one of those but with a less cast look and more hardened tool look. I did my idler arm last week and could only get it 1/4 the way in (no room to hammer it in plus I wanted to save the boot), and that 1/4 way in was mainly on one tooth/side. It still separated the joint and didn't damage the boot and I've used it with susp and tie rods last year, so it's definitely a keeper, and doesn't look bendy when using it and a sharper fork to get in there and seat better. That looks pretty similar to the HF one https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
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May 17, 2018 06:21
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Raluek posted:That looks pretty similar to the HF one https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html Dunno, that's different enough that it could have come from a completely different chinese factory and made with different steel/quality.
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May 18, 2018 12:57
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Jesus loving christ. The expansion valve on the CR-V stuck shut. It's not a dash out job but I kinda wish it was, some of these fasteners are just impossible to get at.
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May 23, 2018 07:51
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Anti archive bump. The WJ was getting more and more wandery going down the road, so I ordered up some new rear control arms. Just put them in, and probably drank a gallon of water while doing so. It's not like anything about the job is full on bullshit, but there are three bolts in the top of the axle. They're massive, and have a giant helping of blue loctite from the factory. Unfortunately the arm blocks any real access from the top, so a 21mm ratcheting wrench is your only option, along with whatever extra leverage you can get. I suppose in theory it would be possible to separate the ball joint from the arm and pull the arm first so you could get a rattlegun in there, but I could get even less leverage on that nut, and I didn't have a deep well socket to get an impact on it. So I just heaved on those three bolts by hand. I did leave the arm and ball joint separate until after I got them both in the car, so running those three bolts back down was much easier. The only thing that was a pain in the dick to torque are the lower control arm bolts. You've got to hold both the nut and the bolt, while applying 120 ft lb, while the Jeep is on the ground. Haven't driven it further than around the block yet, but the upper control arm was definitely due for replacement. Both bushings were very loose, and the ball joint has a small amount of play.
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Jul 16, 2018 04:41
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Also I keep having bad ideas about swapping a WJ D44HD into the C10. They're the same width, the WJ axle already has trailing arm brackets and disc brakes, and it seems like the ball joint mount could be repurposed for a bolt on panhard bar mount. Same bolt pattern, just a smaller hub size on the WJ. The D44 also gets rid of c-clips. The difference is that a WJ axle with a Varilok can be had for fuckall, while getting a 12-bolt set up for trailing arms with any form of limited slip and disc brakes will be $Texas.
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Jul 16, 2018 06:10
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Careful there man, much more of that talk and you're going to find yourself rebuilding a rickety old 1800s house in the middle of the Massachusetts Wasteland.
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Jul 16, 2018 08:21
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It's an aluminum d44 right? I'd avoid it, you're likely to spin the tubes in a truck like that. I'll have to think about what axles would be a better choice. Maybe an f150 fx4 8.8? Iirc they're limited slip, wider than explorer axles, 5x5 or 5x5.5, and 31 spline, but double check all of that.
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Jul 16, 2018 14:52
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Reality is that I'm probably best off having the axle I have reworked as needed. The 12-bolt is plenty strong, it's just annoying that if I ever get around to ditching the leaf springs, I won't be able to have a replacement axle ready to go.
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Jul 16, 2018 21:15
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Hive mind, need some advice. I've had this happen twice now since the incident last year where it got hot enough to puke coolant out of the overflow - I can get the Jeep to approach an overheat, but only in specific conditions. Namely, it has to be either on a long uphill grade (ie I17 north out of Phoenix) or towing a large enclosed trailer on level ground. Happened in May going up 17 trying to maintain 75, happened today hauling a Uhaul 6x12 enclosed trailer around town. In the case of the trailer, I couldn't go faster than about 55-60 on flat ground without the temperature starting to climb well north of 210. Given the 4.7's known problems with dropped valve seats when hot, I back out of it as soon as I notice it getting warm at all. For what it's worth I tow in drive with OD off. But sitting at idle, it not only cools off, it drops below 210 by a bit. So it seems to be very much load based. Part of me wants to think that maybe the radiator is gunked up somehow, but part of me worries I've got a tiny head gasket leak. Even though it still passes combustion gas checks of the coolant. Thoughts? If it sounds like a radiator issue, I'll swap that out come fall when it's not brutal to work on. If this sounds like a HG issue, I'll probably just drive it and keep feeding it maintenance as required, but with an eye towards replacing the Jeep long term (or short if the engine nukes).
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Jul 30, 2018 01:18
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Thermostat not opening fully, fan clutch (if it uses one), radiator, and water pump (specifically, rusted impellers that are slowly returning to the My old car would do almost exactly the same when the thermostat was essentially stuck halfway open (along with taking a long time to warm up on cold days). It could almost close all the way, but the gasket that normally sealed the thermostat itself (not the one for the housing) had gotten bunched up in both the spring and between the plate/body. It couldn't get more than halfway open.
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Jul 30, 2018 05:48
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Thermostat is less than a year old, water pump is probably a year old, and I wouldn't expect the fan to be an issue at 70+.
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Jul 30, 2018 07:04
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Wouldn't hurt to look at the thermostat again to make sure it's opening fully, but beyond that I got nothin..
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Jul 30, 2018 07:15
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I had a similar problem with my TJ over heating while under load. There was a small pinhole leak in the radiator that only lost fluid when very hot so there was never any fluid on the ground. You couldn't really see it because it was behind the ac condenser. But once the radiator was out of the vehicle it was obvious that coolant was coming out and evaporating off.
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Jul 30, 2018 12:52
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