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MomJeans420 posted:Not that it matters because my friend already bought the car, but I thought the new Jeep Grand Cherokees were lemons, but I don't remember why I thought that. Am I right? I'm pretty sure you thought that because jeep hasn't made a good car in like 70 years. 
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Feb 3, 2018 05:30
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How the gently caress does Audi score better than Toyota?
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Feb 3, 2018 05:37
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:My girlfriend bought a 2002 Honda Metropolitan and was only able to fill up at one particular pump at one specific Shell gas station. She’s had problems at other stations where she is unable to pump gas and now we’ve moved away from that Shell. If the pumps in your area have vapour recovery nozzles, you need a decent seal or they’ll refuse to dispense. There may be a leak. Or you could have the opposite problem, an obstruction in the neck that causes backpressure, shutting the pump off.
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Feb 3, 2018 06:14
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I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. I currently have 80,000 miles on the truck. I have never replaced the shock absorbers. I have the budget now to do so but I've never done this before. Is there a preferred brand? Can I just grab 4 of the same type or are the front set different from the rear set? edit: Holy Crap, what about struts? Turkson fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 06:15
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wesleywillis posted:How the gently caress does Audi score better than Toyota? Consumer reports is weird. I much more trust a company (like warranty direct in the UK) that use the data when they sell aftermarket warranties than a company like CR that don't really have a financial stake in the same way. If you have a financial stake in not overrating a car/brands reliability, that makes it much more trustworthy in my eyes.
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Feb 3, 2018 11:40
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Turkson posted:I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500. I currently have 80,000 miles on the truck. I have never replaced the shock absorbers. Usually the front and back are different for some reason or another, I'm not sure if that truck has struts in the front but if it does get quick struts (strut/spring already combined). Compressing springs is not a good time. As for brand I have had good luck with Monroe on my cars. KYB/Bilstein are higher end but ACDelco may be OEM for your truck as they provide a lot of parts to GM. Just don't buy "economy" grade ones from any brand, I hear they don't last. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 15:36
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wesleywillis posted:How the gently caress does Audi score better than Toyota? Because "best car" isn't an objective measure of anything. It's partly based on user-submitted data (which is rather suspect in its own right), but also on how much CR liked them. Meaning, it's mostly subjective and bullshit. CR is garbage for car evaluations.
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Feb 3, 2018 15:43
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Toyota is the highest ranker for reliability but they get dinged a lot for subjective things like "road noise" in the cab and stuff like that. That's probably why their road test is lower than you'd expect.
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Feb 3, 2018 16:03
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It's similar to how a lot of those "Initial Reliability" things don't account for severity, just % of cars sold that have "Problems". So if 10% of your Toyotas have minor rattles, bits breaking off from gorilla-strengthing them and blaming the mfr, etc, meanwhile 5% of Audis experience catastrophic engine failure within the first 5k miles, then Audi gets rated as a more reliable brand.
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Feb 3, 2018 17:33
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Enourmo posted:It's similar to how a lot of those "Initial Reliability" things don't account for severity, just % of cars sold that have "Problems". So if 10% of your Toyotas have minor rattles, bits breaking off from gorilla-strengthing them and blaming the mfr, etc, meanwhile 5% of Audis experience catastrophic engine failure within the first 5k miles, then Audi gets rated as a more reliable brand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0jTcGBxh6w&index=9&list=PLoC1ZyvZc4zEuD2u7mCERyImjrTb1vc7G
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Feb 3, 2018 18:15
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Is it dangerous to remove the top of the fuel filler neck? I've spent the last couple days removing/destroying the 6 bolts that hold on my 1995 Ford f150 truck bed, and only now that I have them all do I realize I I don't actually know how to remove the fuel filler necks. They're in multiple parts, and the upper hose / flared piece you actually put the gas nozzle into is only held in by a hose clamp. But if I take it off, am I creating an opening to my gas tank? It could rain any hour now and now I'm sitting here like an idiot trying to find you tube videos about it. This video doesn't seem to think you have to do anything other than remove the filler neck from the lower hose. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Feb 3, 2018 |
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Feb 3, 2018 20:00
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It'll let fuel vapors out, but if you're in a well-ventilated area and only use hand tools it should be fine.
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Feb 3, 2018 20:20
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Got it; so once I get the bed off I'll just put the filler neck back on before putting the truck into my garage and
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Feb 3, 2018 20:38
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MomJeans420 posted:Not that it matters because my friend already bought the car, but I thought the new Jeep Grand Cherokees were lemons, but I don't remember why I thought that. Am I right? I wouldn't touch anything with the 3.6L V6, but that's not a GC issue, it's a Chrysler issue. Coworker's wife has had a '16 Grand since new with the diesel, and it's been great for them.
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Feb 3, 2018 20:54
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I'm doing my first valve adjustment on my 1978 fiat x19 (1.3l fiat sohc) and I'm a bit concerned about the edges of the cam lobes. They aren't noticeably rough when you touch the edges or anything, they feel almost as smooth as the cam lobes themselves. https://imgur.com/At8HAGg Is this just the way some cams are ground, or is it wearing really weirdly on the shim buckets or something? I also have absolutely no idea about the history of this engine, except that it isn't original.
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Feb 3, 2018 22:39
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spog posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0jTcGBxh6w&index=9&list=PLoC1ZyvZc4zEuD2u7mCERyImjrTb1vc7G  when your ad campaigns invoke enough of a negative reaction to be made fun of on loving tumblr you done hosed up
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Feb 4, 2018 08:55
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spog posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0jTcGBxh6w&index=9&list=PLoC1ZyvZc4zEuD2u7mCERyImjrTb1vc7G Okay his loving accent is pissing me the gently caress off, but that's pretty funny.
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Feb 4, 2018 11:53
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Okay his loving accent is pissing me the gently caress off, but that's pretty funny. I think for the purposes of making him both hateable and yet still more appealing than THOSE loving COMMERCIALS, it works. Also, poop jokes.
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Feb 4, 2018 16:59
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What is the cover-your-rear end procedure for buying a car with a lost title? Further complication, car is in CA where I am but appears to have last been registered in OR.
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Feb 5, 2018 07:25
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bawfuls posted:What is the cover-your-rear end procedure for buying a car with a lost title? Further complication, car is in CA where I am but appears to have last been registered in OR. Look into what it takes to get a new one. That is what the current owner should be doing to get it straightened out, not you. "Lost title" usually means the car is stolen. There's a decent chance it will be impounded by the cops at some point and you'll lose all your money. To protect yourself, buy a car with a clean title. You don't have to buy this one.
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Feb 5, 2018 07:30
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Deteriorata posted:To protect yourself, buy a car with a clean title. You don't have to buy this one. Yeah yeah but it's a really good deal, man
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Feb 5, 2018 15:37
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wesleywillis posted:How the gently caress does Audi score better than Toyota? Passion of the owners. "You own a Toyota. What do you think of it?" "Yeah, I like it a lot!" "You own an Audi. What do you think of it?" "FUCKEN JAVOL MOTHERFUCKERS MY AUDI RULES ALL!!!!" *Quatro AWD explodes* Also price. You paid $25K for your Toyota and that's fine. You paid $50K for your Audi and you MUST justify that, every day, to everybody (especially yourself).
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Feb 5, 2018 17:22
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CR rates a bad window switch the same way they rate a dead engine.
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Feb 5, 2018 17:24
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Professor Shark posted:I ended up stopping by Apple Auto Glass today and the guy came out (in the pouring rain) and looking at it with me for about 10 minutes. Late to the party - the real sealing action of that gasket goes on where the glass and the body meet. Confirming the damage is just cosmetic.
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Feb 5, 2018 17:45
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Deteriorata posted:Look into what it takes to get a new one. That is what the current owner should be doing to get it straightened out, not you. "Lost title" usually means the car is stolen. There's a decent chance it will be impounded by the cops at some point and you'll lose all your money. tactlessbastard posted:Yeah yeah but it's a really good deal, man
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Feb 5, 2018 18:59
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I just put nice wheels and tires on my 1995 ford bronco and I wanted to buy wheel locks and or something to protect my spare tire. Wheel locks only seem to come in sets of 4 or 20, neither of which would really help. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 5, 2018 22:48
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iamthehans posted:I just put nice wheels and tires on my 1995 ford bronco and I wanted to buy wheel locks and or something to protect my spare tire. Wheel locks only seem to come in sets of 4 or 20, neither of which would really help. Anyone have any suggestions? You only need one per wheel...
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Feb 5, 2018 23:50
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EightBit posted:You only need one per wheel... and 4 wheels plus the spare = 5 spare is on the back of the truck. its 5 lugs per wheels.
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Feb 6, 2018 00:11
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bawfuls posted:So the AI consensus is just don't even bother? If the owner procures a replacement title from the DMV, does that still leave me potentially vulnerable? This is a 45 year old car so it is at least plausible the title was legitimately lost. Whatever online VIN search came up in google couldn't find any theft or salvage records of it. I was just kidding, but I can't imagine undertaking selling a vehicle without having title to it so it does sound fishy.
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Feb 6, 2018 00:56
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iamthehans posted:and 4 wheels plus the spare = 5 spare is on the back of the truck. its 5 lugs per wheels. Padlock on a short chain for the rear. Or buy a set of 4 and only bother using one for the spare, as any thief serious enough to jack up your car will be able to get the locknuts off quicker than you can blink.
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Feb 6, 2018 01:15
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bawfuls posted:What is the cover-your-rear end procedure for buying a car with a lost title? Further complication, car is in CA where I am but appears to have last been registered in OR. $93 and five weeks. This shouldn’t be your problem. https://www.dmv.org/or-oregon/replacing-a-lost-title.php E: oregon dmv link http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/trorreplonly.pdf
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Feb 6, 2018 01:32
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bawfuls posted:So the AI consensus is just don't even bother? If the owner procures a replacement title from the DMV, does that still leave me potentially vulnerable? This is a 45 year old car so it is at least plausible the title was legitimately lost. Whatever online VIN search came up in google couldn't find any theft or salvage records of it. A 45 year old car is a bit different. Some states don't even require a title on a car that old. Check your state laws. I had a 1959 Edsel for a while. It had a title. If the owner can get a new title from the DMV, you should be clear. It should be his problem, though, not yours. His not wanting to bother with one and just laughing it off as no big deal would give me pause. I would not consider buying a car without a title. If someone is serious about selling a car, they should get everything in order first. Those unwilling to do so usually have a reason beyond laziness.
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Feb 6, 2018 03:15
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Were muscle cars sold in Japan during the 60s? If so, what models were offered? Did they have their own niche? I'm writing a story and I'm planning to write in a 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28, but I'm not sure if that was ever sold in Japan.
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Feb 6, 2018 03:25
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That seems like the kind of car that would only end up in Japan if an American soldier brought it on deployment somehow.
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Feb 6, 2018 03:51
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Schneider Heim posted:Were muscle cars sold in Japan during the 60s? If so, what models were offered? Did they have their own niche? I'm writing a story and I'm planning to write in a 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z28, but I'm not sure if that was ever sold in Japan. I just had a peek at Japanese Wikipedia; apparently only around 10 were sold of the first generation (1967-69). If set in the present day, perhaps others were imported individually in the following years, IOwnCalculus posted:That seems like the kind of car that would only end up in Japan if an American soldier brought it on deployment somehow. is quite correct as the Status of Forces Agreement has pretty generous provisions for American servicepeople. OTOH I'm not sure how possible it is to leave vehicles there, especially if the owner isn't covered by the SOFA. I'm not sure if Japan has more chill import restrictions on older vehicles like the US, where anything over 25 years old is fair game without needing all the compliancing. I'd lead towards it being more difficult though, as Japanese cars have a biannual safety inspection that is basically designed to take older cars off the road. Classics do exist in Japan now but comparatively speaking they are less common, though typically they are immaculately maintained by their very dedicated owners. If you want to look up other makes/models, you can look up the English page on Wikipedia, then go to the Japanese version (if it exists, will be 日本語 in the languages sidebar), and then you can run it through Google Translate if you don't read Japanese. Might try a Mustang? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Feb 6, 2018 |
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Feb 6, 2018 08:06
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About how much would it cost to replace suspension/engine/drivetrain on a car? My uncle has a 1972 Gran Torino (2-door fastback, 250cid I6, 3-speed manual) and he has been intimating that he might leave it to me when he passes (he’s 85 and not healthy  ) and I’m thinking about what to do with it.- It might be a restore project, but it has a replacement engine and a shabby interior. - I could just sell it, but I wouldn’t mind having a solid piece of American heavy metal in the garage. - I could get it built into a hot rod. And I really like rebuilding it as a hot rod as an option but I know that’ll be some cash. I was thinking about a stiffer suspension, upgraded motor and a more modern 5-speed transmission. Is this idea really stupid? How much would this kind of overhaul cost, ballpark?
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Feb 6, 2018 09:11
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$0 to $500,000,000,000,000,000,000,000. Seriously, there's no way anybody can ballpark that. You should be able to figure out the suspension prices from Rockauto or eBay (or maybe car-part.com). A modern drivetrain is going to require some significant retrofitting and fab work. You may be able to swap in a V8 and 4 speed that were originally offered in the Gran Torino with little work; if a later 5 speed was offered behind the same family engine, then if it's a floor shift (and not 3 on the tree), you can probably make it work relatively easily. It really depends on how common parts are, how difficult whatever swap you want to do is, where you live in the world, how available parts are, etc etc etc. It's not a particularly common car today, but the 72 was offered with 5 different V8s and 3 different transmissions (1 auto 3 speed, 1 manual 3 speed, 1 manual 4 speed). And IIRC, the bellhousing pattern differed a bit depending on which engine it had. I would think your best bet would be to look at what it takes to swap in a Windsor V8 with a 4 speed, then see what it takes to bolt up a later 5 speed (the Windsor ran well into the late 90s, and was offered with 5 speeds in the later years in the F series trucks - a Fox body 5.0 Mustang transmission should bolt up to a 351W if you get the correct flywheel, but will probably carry a cost premium because ~Mustang~). The majority of the cost will depend on how much work you're willing to do yourself. Windsor engines are plentiful and cheap (though don't go too crazy with the HP on one), so are 5 speeds that bolt up to them. The hard part is bolting into the car. I'd also strongly recommend a conversion to some kind of electronic ignition when you do this swap. The factory option is Ford DuraSpark (preferably DuraSpark II), but Pertronix makes one of the easiest drop-in electronic ignition systems from what I understand). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Feb 6, 2018 |
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Feb 6, 2018 09:47
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I just had a peek at Japanese Wikipedia; apparently only around 10 were sold of the first generation (1967-69). If set in the present day, perhaps others were imported individually in the following years, IOwnCalculus posted:That seems like the kind of car that would only end up in Japan if an American soldier brought it on deployment somehow. Thank you. I'm actually thinking of that scenario as the car's origin story.
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Feb 6, 2018 09:49
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Deteriorata posted:A 45 year old car is a bit different. Some states don't even require a title on a car that old. Check your state laws. This basically, I would only make an exception for something that is both old and worthless even restored that has also not been running for a good long time as the most likely scenario there is it's just been sitting as an abandoned project. But this is also considering I live in a state where anything pre-86 does not require a title to register. Question, my 05 Prius has been shuddering violently when the gas engine is running and the car is in gear unless you are accelerating hard, especially when you are going gently up a steep hill. It runs butter smooth when the car is in neutral/park or is only running on the electric motor. Also the traction control flickers occasionally when it does it. Any ideas?
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Feb 6, 2018 13:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:$0 to $500,000,000,000,000,000,000,000. If you hire someone else to do the work, expect labor to be about 3x the cost of parts. As a really, really rough ballpark. You can buy a brand new 5.0 from Ford for $8-10k. You can get an older-style Ford crate motor from Summit or a dozen other places for less (probably 4-6k, turnkey). A 5 speed will probably run 2-3k. If you're looking at buying a used motor and rebuilding it, you can luck out and get it down for just a couple thousand (maybe less), or you can really build it up for more. Drivetrain-wise, the cost is 100% up to you. The other stuff...it's 50% up to you.
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Feb 6, 2018 16:21
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