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EDIT: Disregard! Was asking about mounting a hood range, but think I might have figured it out.
melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Feb 7, 2018 |
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Feb 7, 2018 01:10
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Edit: NM
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Feb 7, 2018 01:32
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My pull out larder top runner took a poo poo and died, so I've ordered new runners. The old runners have these U shaped bracket things welded onto them as you can probably see in the pic, no idea what they're called closest thing I can find is called a top hat bracket which is for making an electrical channel; so there's a 25 mm difference between the new and the old runners. Would a well secured batten between the cabinet carcass and the new runners be ok strengthwise, considering the metal frame is being hung from the side instead of a runner directly underneath and one above? Alternately I could keep the old bottom runner in place and just batten the new top runner? Thanks
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Feb 7, 2018 19:03
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A LOVELY LAD posted:My pull out larder top runner took a poo poo and died, so I've ordered new runners. Are you completely sure that the spacer is welded to the slide or is it screwed to it?
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Feb 7, 2018 22:32
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kid sinister posted:Are you completely sure that the spacer is welded to the slide or is it screwed to it? Yeah, spot welds by the looks of things - I tried the ole stick a screwdriver in the gap and mash it with a hammer but that didn't really work in separating them. Either way the spacer doesn't cover the full 25mm - the new runners are about 10mm thinner than the old ones.
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Feb 7, 2018 22:49
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A question about some erosion/wearing down that I'm seeing on the side of my house (top-end of foundation, maybe? I don't know). Our house is about 8 years old. Cookie-cutter suburban house. Cheap build quality. All of that. Over time I've noticed this layer of grey concrete-like stuff that is flaking off and crumbling. It looks like the original builder slathered a thin layer of some protective coating on the foundation. But it's flaking off and crumbling with time. I circled the stuff that has been crumbling off, and pointed arrows at the material that seems to be wearing away.  What is this stuff, and does it need to be re-applied as it wears away? I hope I'm making sense, here. melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:42 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 00:52
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It's just a decorative layer of stucco. It's cosmetic only AFAIK, I don't think you really need to reapply it unless it's bothering you. My house (built 5 years ago) has the same poo poo and is also crumbling over time.
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Feb 8, 2018 01:05
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melon cat posted:A question about some erosion/wearing down that I'm seeing on the side of my house (top-end of foundation, maybe? I don't know). Our house is about 8 years old. Cookie-cutter suburban house. Cheap build quality. All of that. That is called ‘efflouresence’ And is what happens when groundwater and the lime in mortar really love each other, and move through your foundation wall, where, through the miracle of evaporation, the calcium carbonate crystallizes into being.
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Feb 8, 2018 05:51
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Yeah, spot welds by the looks of things - I tried the ole stick a screwdriver in the gap and mash it with a hammer but that didn't really work in separating them. Either way the spacer doesn't cover the full 25mm - the new runners are about 10mm thinner than the old ones. Sounds like you'll need to cut some wood to fit, attach that to the cabinets, then attach your new slides to it.
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Feb 8, 2018 06:07
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kid sinister posted:Sounds like you'll need to cut some wood to fit, attach that to the cabinets, then attach your new slides to it. Cool, that's what I was meaning by the batten. Cheers!
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Feb 8, 2018 18:27
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Cool, that's what I was meaning by the batten. Cheers! You might want to think ahead with the slide attachment points to that wood. Don't put a screw through the wood and into the cabinet right where you'll later need to attach the slide to the wood.
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Feb 8, 2018 19:12
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Yeah, spot welds by the looks of things Drilling out the spot welds possible? Hopefully you can then secure the new sliders through this hole to the cabinets.
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Feb 8, 2018 19:47
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Our furnace exhaust pipe (?) is in our laundry room, in a tight corridor where we frequently pass. The pipe gets really hot and has burned both me and my wife. Is it possible too insulate this somehow or is that a bad idea?
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Feb 9, 2018 02:46
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me your dad posted:Our furnace exhaust pipe (?) is in our laundry room, in a tight corridor where we frequently pass. The pipe gets really hot and has burned both me and my wife. Is it possible too insulate this somehow or is that a bad idea? Technically it's called a "flue", and you might just want to build something around it. Also, how tight are quarters if you can't avoid it while walking? Do you have a picture? if possible, it may make sense to reroute it.
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Feb 9, 2018 02:51
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n.. posted:It's just a decorative layer of stucco. It's cosmetic only AFAIK, I don't think you really need to reapply it unless it's bothering you. My house (built 5 years ago) has the same poo poo and is also crumbling over time. PainterofCrap posted:That is called ‘efflouresence’ And is what happens when groundwater and the lime in mortar really love each other, and move through your foundation wall, where, through the miracle of evaporation, the calcium carbonate crystallizes into being. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 17:30
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kid sinister posted:You might want to think ahead with the slide attachment points to that wood. Don't put a screw through the wood and into the cabinet right where you'll later need to attach the slide to the wood. Shame Boner posted:Drilling out the spot welds possible? Hopefully you can then secure the new sliders through this hole to the cabinets. It was turning out to be a bit of a frustration, so I've managed to repair the old runner (hopefully)!
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Feb 9, 2018 18:38
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So I've started working on my basement in my free time. I've gotten rid of a lot of the old wood paneling and junk and I'm working on cleaning the walls and floor so I can paint them when the weather's better, but I'm seeing a few things that concern me. I've found a light switch on the ceiling. Some of the wires down below are starting to slip free of their moorings. I found a few electrical sockets in an out of the way corner that've come loose and are just, you know. Hanging out. I would like to call someone to check for problems and address the ones that are found, but do I call an electrician, a handy man, etc? What do I say aside from, "Please come over and make sure my house doesn't burn down?"
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Feb 9, 2018 21:16
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melon cat posted:Jesus christ pal can you NSFW that sentence? This song came on when I read that! Strange, when I hear efflorescence, I hear this.
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Feb 9, 2018 21:20
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NerdyMcNerdNerd posted:... Wires I'll assume are live An electrician, just tell them you've found lose wires etc and need a survey doing and a quote for any significant remedial work.
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Feb 10, 2018 21:22
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Range hood question. I've decided to connect a separate appliance cord so I can just plug our new replacement hood into a standard 120 volt outlet. But how do I connect the appliance cable's ground wire? White 1 to white 2. Black 1 to Black 2. Those are simple. But does Green 1 go under the same grounding screw as Green 2 (Ground A)? Or does it get wrapped and screwed to its own grounding screw (Screw B)? Also, what's the properly way to properly wrap stranded wire around a ground screw? I've wrapped solid before, but not stranded. I'm sure that I'm over-thinking this, probably.
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Feb 11, 2018 19:42
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melon cat posted:Also, what's the properly way to properly wrap stranded wire around a ground screw? I've wrapped solid before, but not stranded. I'm sure that I'm over-thinking this, probably.
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Feb 11, 2018 19:56
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We had a really heavy rain yesterday and now one of our downstairs rooms is wet. Doesn’t appear to be coming from the ceiling or walls but looks like it’s happened before. Where should we start as far as looking for the cause?
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Feb 11, 2018 21:48
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Slugworth posted:Strip a bit off the end of the wire. Now go a bit further back, and strip some more, but instead of taking this bit off entirely, just slide it to the tip of the wire. Make your loop, tighten the screw. The little bit of cover at the tip will keep it from flattening and unbraiding. I'll definitely do that- thanks for telling me about that. But the big question now is- how do I connect the appliance cable's ground wire? Do I tie it around Ground A, or Ground B? Edit: Thanks dudes. Ground B it is! melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 22:00
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melon cat posted:I'll definitely do that- thanks for telling me about that. But the big question now is- how do I connect the appliance cable's ground wire? Do I tie it around Ground A, or Ground B? Ground B should be fine. Find a wiring diagram for your unit. If you want to be sure test continuity between them with your multimeter.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:09
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Ground B preferably.
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Feb 11, 2018 22:23
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Rubiks Pubes posted:We had a really heavy rain yesterday and now one of our downstairs rooms is wet. Doesn’t appear to be coming from the ceiling or walls but looks like it’s happened before. Where should we start as far as looking for the cause? Where in the room is it wet, in the center or along the wall? How's the grade outside? Did/do you have standing water against the foundation of this room? Basement, slab or crawlspace?
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Feb 11, 2018 22:29
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Rubiks Pubes posted:We had a really heavy rain yesterday and now one of our downstairs rooms is wet. Doesn’t appear to be coming from the ceiling or walls but looks like it’s happened before. Where should we start as far as looking for the cause? Well first check your downspouts and make sure you are directing water as far from your house and possible and that you aren't trapping water up against the house. Might also want to look into dumping top soil all around your foundation. What kind of basement is it? What kind of foundation do you have?
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Feb 11, 2018 23:05
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The Dave posted:Well first check your downspouts and make sure you are directing water as far from your house and possible and that you aren't trapping water up against the house. Might also want to look into dumping top soil all around your foundation. It is wet in a corner and in the adjacent closet which share the same exterior wall. There were a few areas on the outside that needed to be caulked which I have taken care of today. We added some of the little tray drains beneath the downspouts to direct the water away better. The basement is finished and carpeted and there is a concrete foundation. One other thing I noticed is that the dryer vent (which is on the same wall) was separated from the wall on the outside of the house, I reattached this and caulked it as well. Kinda pisses me off because the previous owner had obviously had the problem before (carpet pad in that corner is different and newer) and they didn’t divulge it during the sale process.
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Feb 11, 2018 23:29
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Maybe they did some repairs and thought it was fixed? Basements develop leaks way more often than they tend to stay dry.
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Feb 12, 2018 02:10
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I don't understand why basements aren't just built as steel bathtubs, it seems like you could manage the corrosion pretty easily galvanically, especially with a stainless "tub". Would it float the house out of the ground or something?
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Feb 12, 2018 03:06
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Depending on the soil composition the basement is dug into: quite possibly. My house is built into an old sand dune (i.e. most of southern NewJersey) so: not for me.
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Feb 12, 2018 03:44
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So, I want to repaint the thresholds on these two doors – front and back.   I’ll likely be replacing the stained raised thresholds with new ones, but am thinking about how to best remove the gray paint from rest of the outer threshold(s) and repaint. I figure these are the steps I’ll need to take- with some questions: 1. Remove existing gray paint – either chemically or with a hot air gun and sand. Q1: Any thoughts on the best way to do this? Both thresholds have seen lots of sun and moisture – would a hot air gun and scraper be the best solution? 2. Repair – either sand down to good wood, and/or repair any obvious/large cracks with a durable filler. Q2: Any recommendations here? Is there a magic product that could work on the cracks or in general? I don’t really want to remove & replace these, as that would be a much larger job to take apart the frame to get at that piece. 3. Repaint – Q3: I think this is pretty straightforward, but open to suggestions.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:37
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shovelbum posted:I don't understand why basements aren't just built as steel bathtubs, it seems like you could manage the corrosion pretty easily galvanically, especially with a stainless "tub". Would it float the house out of the ground or something? That would be so freaking expensive.
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Feb 12, 2018 08:54
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KillHour posted:That would be so freaking expensive. Yeah no poo poo! If you have the space it will always be cheaper to build up or out rather than down.
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Feb 12, 2018 09:04
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If I had the money, I would just make my basement a fallout shelter.
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Feb 12, 2018 14:49
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If I had the money, I would just get my crumbling walls repaired but holy poo poo is that expensive and now I'm probably going to do it myself which will take 400x as long and won't look as good.
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Feb 12, 2018 15:08
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:So, I want to repaint the thresholds on these two doors – front and back. Here is a TOH video showing a mroe complex repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3l5q0xaQEf8
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Feb 12, 2018 18:21
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This loving range hood, man.  What's the best way to fill a larger hole in particle board cabinetry? Asking because holes 'A' and 'B' are causing some play and jiggle in the vent assembly so I want to fill 'em up, and hole 'C' is in a place where I need to screw in some rails for my new range hood.  Can I just get use some cheapy spray foam in a can, or something (like this one)? Just wondering if these spray foam products can be counted on to support drilling in a screw and holding 1 of 4 screws for the rail assembly (hood range weighs about 20 pounds).
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Feb 12, 2018 21:27
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melon cat posted:Just wondering if these spray foam products can be counted on to support drilling in a screw and holding 1 of 4 screws for the rail assembly (hood range weighs about 20 pounds). No. You'll need to insert new material that's thoroughly supported by the existing material. Either that, or replace the entire sheet. Indeed, if you can tolerate the offset it'd introduce, probably the easiest solution would be to get a new 1/2" sheet of plywood, cut a hole in it for the exhaust, and then screw it down directly on top of the particle board.
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Feb 12, 2018 21:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:No. You'll need to insert new material that's thoroughly supported by the existing material. Either that, or replace the entire sheet. Indeed, if you can tolerate the offset it'd introduce, probably the easiest solution would be to get a new 1/2" sheet of plywood, cut a hole in it for the exhaust, and then screw it down directly on top of the particle board.  .
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Feb 12, 2018 21:50
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