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Reposting this from my Z thread just would like more opinions as I have never ran into this: So i got it all apart and have some questions to bounce off the more experienced gear heads in here:  So I am a little worried about this (but I don't know if I should be). The engine is unknown mileage, PO claimed it was a JDM long block. I have never pulled one apart that has the wear from the rear main seal spring. It is very very thin, I can just barely feel it (i would say the difference in material is maybe the thickness of a fingernail maybe less). Should i hit it with the highest grit sandpaper I can find? Try to move the spring on the new rear main forward or backwards, or just not worry about it? (It was pulled for leaking from the rear main seal) Secondly:   PO stated that clutch was replaced when engine was replaced (read "recently", probably bullshit) rivets are starting to show does that mean time to get a new clutch? No burning or scoring on flywheel, one little darkened patch on the pressure plate. The friction plate kind of looks like it was slipping, maybe I need to get a stronger pressure plate and friction plate anyways. I wanted to get the exhaust manifolds off without pulling the engine but I think that is impossible, so likely the engine will get pulled again in December in which case I can replace the clutch then.
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Feb 6, 2018 16:58
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The rivets are generally (always?) visible, even on a brand-new in-box clutch disc. If you knew the nominal thickness of the disc when new you could measure it with a pair of calipers to figure out how much is left - but that being said you've already done over half the work of replacing it at this point so you might as well, unless pulling the engine in December is a foregone conclusion.
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Feb 6, 2018 21:26
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Yeah, if you've got that poo poo apart, replace the clutch. Might as well do the pilot bearing/bushing too.
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Feb 7, 2018 13:39
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Anyone know where i can get a 89 honda 2.0 A series valve cover?
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Feb 8, 2018 05:12
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A salvage yard
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Feb 8, 2018 05:53
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Salvage yard or ebay. I found one (and only one) on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1989-HONDA-ACCORD-ENGINE-CYLINDER-HEAD-VALVE-COVER-OEM/232514488337 You can use one from 1986-1989 Accords, I'm assuming you're in the US; trim levels will differ for Canada or outside of North America. SOME 2nd gen (84-87) Prelude Sis had an A20A3 (I think most of them were an A18, or the B20A that powered the 3rd gens). e: go read the jan chat thread, everdave and I dug up the part numbers. brand new one isn't happening, but we both have junkyard connections (him more than me) and can probably find one. There's also the 3geez.com forums. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Feb 8, 2018 |
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Feb 8, 2018 06:48
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1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 I've been thinking about adding a roof rack to the topper for my Ranger. This would make hauling my GF's canoe a bit easier and maybe help with moving her from Regina to here in Quebec in May. Our current plan is for me to drive to Regina, pick up her, her stuff, and a rental UHaul trailer (the 4x8). Her stuff includes a canoe which we have already put on top of my truck without any problems, and a bicycle that might or might not fit inside either the back of the truck or the trailer, given those spaces will also be full of stuff. I guess I have 2 questions: 1) Can I just bolt whatever roof rack to the top of my truck topper? I think I could put something together at Home Depot if it doesn't need to fit the curves of a specific vehicle. The topper is not a high-low, it's flat and when on the truck the roof is the same level as the roof of the cab. It's a cheap piece of fibreglass and it already leaks water in when it rains (mostly around the windows) so a few small holes in the roof won't make a difference. But I don't know about structural and weight considerations. There's a topper with basic bars on top available on Kijiji here for free, but it's got a broken back window and I already have a topper. The alternative is to find the kind of rack that goes around the outside of my topper. New, those are around $250-$300 from a quick google, and maybe one will show up used in the next few months. Total weight to carry on the rack (and it would be reasonably evenly distributed) is on the order of 150 pounds, plus whatever aerodynamic effects (minimal for the canoe, maybe more for the bike?). 2) Does a bike rack exist that mounts on the trailer hitch but still allows me to pull a trailer? Or, even if such a thing were possible, would that be a really bad idea for some reason?
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Feb 8, 2018 16:13
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ExecuDork posted:1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 for the bike rack you'd probably want something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/p-D210.html usual caveat applies of do not exceed the max tongue weight
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Feb 8, 2018 18:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Salvage yard or ebay. I found one (and only one) on ebay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1989-HONDA-ACCORD-ENGINE-CYLINDER-HEAD-VALVE-COVER-OEM/232514488337 Thanks for the response. in the end i RTVed my way to freedom of this pos in my shop.
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Feb 9, 2018 02:30
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ExecuDork posted:1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 I've seen people mount a bike rack to a trailer, if that's any help. Can you get the topper with the bars off kijiji and just transfer the bars? I wouldn't worry too much about building one as long as all you're putting on top there is a canoe and you tie the canoe down to the truck, not just the topper.
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Feb 9, 2018 03:42
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Breakfast Feud posted:I've seen people mount a bike rack to a trailer, if that's any help. I have OPINIONS about putting canoes on vehicles, but this isn't the place for that. Certainly, yes, the canoe will be tied to the truck, not just to the topper/rack.
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Feb 9, 2018 16:36
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ExecuDork posted:I could get that free topper and move the bars (probably easier than moving the window the other direction - the picture looks very similar to mine but it's probably not an exact match). Then I'd have a really crappy topper to get rid of, not sure how that would work. I guess the dump, but I don't know. I live in an appartment, I don't have the space to have something like that sitting around attached to a "free - I will help you take it!" ad. As someone that frequently straps kayaks to roof racks, would you mind going over your opinions?
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Feb 9, 2018 19:34
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I wad driving to a job interview in Kansas and I passed a guy with a kayak on his roof rack and I was like who are you kidding dude where are you going
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Feb 9, 2018 19:43
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tactlessbastard posted:I wad driving to a job interview in Kansas and I passed a guy with a kayak on his roof rack and I was like who are you kidding dude where are you going If he was going south, to OKC's whitewater park, probably. Or far out of state.
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Feb 9, 2018 20:08
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ExecuDork posted:I think I could put something together at Home Depot if it doesn't need to fit the curves of a specific vehicle. The topper is not a high-low, it's flat and when on the truck the roof is the same level as the roof of the cab. It's a cheap piece of fibreglass and it already leaks water in when it rains (mostly around the windows) so a few small holes in the roof won't make a difference. A bit off topic but grab some silicone rubber sealant for those leaky windows.
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Feb 9, 2018 20:37
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EightBit posted:As someone that frequently straps kayaks to roof racks, would you mind going over your opinions? These opinions come from my fiancee, it's her boat. We've gone on about half-a-dozen canoe trips so far, and put that canoe (and one other) onto a few vehicles. You absolutely need to secure the boat to the car very thoroughly, because 100 km/h on the highway will push that boat all over the place and any movement is bad. I don't care that you're only going 1/2 mile, tie that loving thing up!  Canoodling my Bimmer 1 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrHere's her boat on the BMW I used to have; note the lack of a roof rack. You can click through and read my comment under the photo, but the basic idea is the boat has jumbo pool noodles fitted over the gunwales (sliced down their lengths, carved cut-outs for the thwart) to provide a pad between the boat and the car. The boat is held tightly against the car (slightly deforming the roof; the sunroof still kinda worked) by a large ratchet strap, and that strap meets up with itself inside the car; we tie the excess strap up out of the way in the back seat.  SD 091 3 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrHere's a view of the hanging strap (tied off to prevent slipping) from my fiancee's old car, a Ranger very similar to the one I currently own. At the front of the vehicle, there are two ropes that come down to the front corners of the car. There is ALWAYS a place to tie on a rope on a car. On the BMW we'd lift the hood and tie on to the rail that holds the top of the radiator, just inside. At the back, it's the same story - on the BMW we tied on to the trunk lid hinges. On my Ranger the two tail ropes go almost straight down to the trailer hitch, we tie on to the loops on the side of the hitch for the safety chains. Some cars have more obvious tie-down points than others, but no car is completely without appropriate hardpoints. This is what the front tie-downs look like from the driver's seat (this is the BMW).  Wayne to Rosedale (3 of 11) by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe view shouldn't be significantly obstructed at all. It's a matter of shoving the boat forward and back before you tighten the ratchet strap, and getting everything lined up straight. Because you drive from one side of the car rather than the middle it always looks like the boat is crooked but if you're outside you can see how it's lined up. You asked about a kayak on a rack, though, which changes a few things but the main message is the same: Tie that thing down, front and back. Aerodynamics will shove the front end sideways at highway speeds (hell, that'll happen at suburban street speeds) no matter how good your center strap (or pair of straps fairly close together) is held down. We borrowed a friend's Subaru, to which he had recently added both a rack and a cargo cage thing. That worked *really* well, the extra height meant the boat hardly took up any of the view from the driver's seat, and made it possible to open the tailgate at least a little.  Day 5 Savanna and Canoe by Martin Brummell, on Flickr(the car's name was Savanna) It's hard to see in this picture but we didn't use the ratchet strap for this one. Two ropes hold the canoe down on the roof cage, with two more at each end. The rear ropes are nearly parallel and tie on to the trailer hitch, the front ropes form that VERY NECESSARY V-shape and were tied to the front bumper. The key thing is to learn how to tie proper knots. I don't know all the names of all of the knots, and I couldn't explain how to tie them without holding the rope in my hands, but you can very easily apply just two critical ones to your boats and not worry about it: bowline (loop around solid object, like the thwart of the canoe) and a trucker's hitch that lets you pull down as hard as you want to tighten before securing it with a set of half-hitches.  Rope Skills by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThis is a trucker's hitch with half-hitches I used to set up a clothesline inside the tent I lived in for a summer. I was quite proud of myself for remembering how to do it, I think it only took me five or six tries to get it. I've never tried to put a kayak on a car, just canoes, and if you have a rack already the padding from the pool noodles is unnecessary anyway. Just think about the direction of forces acting on the boat while you're driving, and have ropes providing tension to resist movement in those directions. I find it helpful to imagine the boat as an airplane tied to the car - it can roll (slide off the roof to one side), pitch (front or back moves up or down), and yaw (front or back pivots sideways). The big strap holds it in place and keeps things from bouncing around too much, and controls roll. The front and back ropes stop pitch (both are necessary because the ropes can't stop their end coming down) and yaw (the V-shape at the front). If your kayak is really short and light you might get away with just a pair of over-the-top straps, but I would always go with the fore-and-aft pairs in any case. Rope is cheap and widely available, and beats having your boat fall off. I have put one canoe at a time on my truck sans rack, but for the upcoming move I'm considering adding a rack to the topper so I can carry both the boat and my fiancee's bicycle up there. Without a rack, there's really only a way to attach one object, and with a rack I could potentially carry two canoes (so my fiancee and I could bring some friends on a trip).  Tarrandus and her summer shoes by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI don't have a picture of my Ranger wearing a canoe on my Flickr, yet. Those pictures are still buried on a harddrive for now. Ethics_Gradient posted:A bit off topic but grab some silicone rubber sealant for those leaky windows. Good idea, thanks! Sooner or later I'll dig the topper out of the snowbank (it's leaning up against a fence in the parking lot of my building) and put it back on my truck - I had to take it off to pass out-of-province inspection because it blocks the "cyclop", the high centre-mount brakelight. tactlessbastard posted:I wad driving to a job interview in Kansas and I passed a guy with a kayak on his roof rack and I was like who are you kidding dude where are you going ExecuDork fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Feb 10, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 23:59
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As far as synthetic oil, is it all the same or is there actually a significant difference? I want to do synthetic on my new to me car because Im driving it so drat much, but Ive always just gotten conventional. Im also getting 0W-20, which is new. Ive always used 5W-30.
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Feb 10, 2018 00:29
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0w20 is only available as synthetic anyway, but beyond that they're pretty much all the same. If you have a GM product they'll want you to use something with Dexos labeling on it somewhere, which I think most synthetics also have.
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Feb 10, 2018 00:39
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Take the free topper, transfer the rack and then cut up the topper with a sawzall and drive it to the dump. Never thought I'd read that many words about tying boats to cars but here we are! Thanks!
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Feb 10, 2018 01:26
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RE: Canoe talk, with my old car, I tied it down under the front bumper to the tow loops, or whatever that were used to secure the car to the truck for transport from the dock-yard-dealer. On the back, there was one tie point that I could use for tying it off on the passenger side. For the driver side, I went to an exhaust shop and had then weld a loop of exhaust hanger to the passenger side. The exhaust hanger was about 1/2 or 9/16 inch diameter. Worked quite well. For my new (not new anymore) car I had a roof rack, I'd wrap a strap around each cross bar over the canoe and tighten t down. Then straps at the front, on the factory tie downs underneath the front bumper. I had a seamstress make cloth sleeves to fit over the straps so that they didn't wear my bumper paint off quite as much as the bare straps. For the back there wasn't much, but I came up with this which I bolted to where the trailer hitch would go: 2 pieces of 2 X 5 X , 2 pieces of 2 X 3 X , flat steel plate 4 pieces of 1 X 6 X thick flat steel. 2 pieces of 5/16 round steel bar, 6 inches long.         Total cost for materials: Metal: less than 15 bucks Bolts and washers: ~ 20 bucks Time spent: Probably 5-6 hours
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Feb 10, 2018 17:56
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Tell me you put in a new timing belt while you had it apart. It's supposed to be done either every 60k or 90k depending on year model on the Rio. Yeah I tossed a new one in there. I installed a new timing belt the week she bought it, but since it's kind of a pain in the rear end to do and one of those "while you're in there" things it was worth the $35 for a new one and not having to re-do the process later just for the belt. Also interference engines and laziness regarding timing belts really don't mix. Probably should have swapped the water pump too the first time I changed the belt, but hindsight is always 20/20 and the pump was just fine when she bought it. DogonCrook posted:What where the symptoms of the first ps pump? It could be something up in the actual steering gearbox. The symptoms were "it was hosed and stopped pumping fluid completely." I did do the lock-to-lock turning when I put the new one in and while I had it up on jackstands this time, fluid lines were leak-free then and they're still leak-free now. Thankfully. It does need a good flush done and a filter put in though, the first pump failure wasn't brought to my attention until it was too late so it was a major rush job and unfortunately she's a little bit stereotypical when it comes to car issues - last minute/too late is when I typically find out about things going wrong. Since the PS and serpentine belts were still looking new and I can have them both off, on, and tensioned in 30 minutes by now so I just elected to wash them in hot water and Dawn, clean the pulleys squeaky clean, and roll with it. The squeal was caused by hosed bearings causing momentary seizes rather than contamination so I'm not terribly worried, if a squeal comes back they're <$10 for both so I'll just toss on a pair of new ones and be done with it. Anyways the alternator was the second half of the equation, all noises ceased when I removed the serpentine belt powering it/the new waterpump and started the car and revved the engine for a minute(and just a minute on a colder day, I'm well aware of the potential to cook the head by doing that), and came back once the belt was reinstalled. FYI swapping an alternator on a Rio is a big pain in the rear end, you have to disassemble like half of the poo poo in the front of the engine bay to actually get it out - PS pump and bracket have to be unbolted and moved out of the way, the radiator fan in front of it, every piece of electrical wiring needs to be taken off its bracket and shifted out of the way, etc. Also you need to remove the passenger wheel and all mud shielding to get your hands in to the right places and prevent the alternator from falling onto the oil filter and puncturing it during removal. Thank you RockAuto for carrying non-rebuilds for a decent price, I learned my lesson about retail store remans when I had a Corolla in the early 2000s. Pretty sure they just swap new bearings in and give them a powerwash to get the grime off before going into the box. Also shout out to the Hyundai/Kia engineers for making basically every bolt on this car use 10, 12, and 13mm heads. Compared to the mishmash of metric/SAE and head sizes that is my Ranger, it's fantastic to take apart. So I guess if anybody is paging through this thread and has an older Rio, learn from my experience: 1. If your alternator is shot just swap the timing belt and water pump along with it, and avoid another hassle in the future. 2. Make sure you have some washers or M8-sized tube stock on hand, some Rios have a 24mm tall bolt post on them and other ones have a 14mm tall bolt post, and it's the same post on the pump that part of the alternator tensioning bracket attaches to. Parts stores don't appear to differentiate between them. So if you wind up with a short-post pump and own a Rio that came with a tall-post pump, you need to take up the space somehow to make the tensioning bracket go straight.
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Feb 10, 2018 20:33
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I need to replace the headlight bulbs in my 2006 Dodge Durango. I would like to get some very bright bulbs. Where or what should I look for? I have prime, but I don't know what to search for.
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Feb 10, 2018 22:23
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Dennis McClaren posted:I need to replace the headlight bulbs in my 2006 Dodge Durango. I would like to get some very bright bulbs. Where or what should I look for? I have prime, but I don't know what to search for. Your Durango uses 9006 bulbs; about 10 years ago some bulb manufacturers started producing halogen infrared bulbs which have a coating on the inside of the bulb that bounces infrared radiation back at the filament resulting in 75% higher lumen output at the same current & voltage. If you can find a pair of 9012 HIR bulbs (they're somewhat rare as the technology didn't really take off) the bases can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets in your headlights, at which point they're physically and optically identical to normal 9006 halogens.
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Feb 10, 2018 22:52
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Man, you guys are doing canoe/kayak tie downs the hard way. Do your boats not have hard tie down points that you can run a ratchet strap through?
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Feb 11, 2018 00:25
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Hey all I have a question that I am trying to suss out. I have it narrowed down to a couple things now but have no real answers yet. 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5L about 200k+ miles on it. Just the last few days the car has completely shut off when going up hill. I mean a total loss of power but all the lights and displays stay on perfectly. You can immediately turn it back on with out a problem but when you do and are going uphill. It still shuts off in about 2 seconds. My wife incorrectly described the issue to me so I bought and replaced the alternator thinking it was an electrical issue. After further troubleshooting it came to light it happened to her more than once and always going up hill. This is now accompanied by a slight gas scent when you are outside of the car. I was able to get it going 60mph down a residential road with out any loss of power or strange happenings but the moment you go uphill it dies. I am even able to go DOWN hill without a problem. Im leaning on it either being a fuel pump issue, or a clog/leak in the fuel line. I know there are all other kinds of sensors and things that could malfunction but as of now I have yet to try and run any check engine codes as I dont have a system to check and have yet to run down to oreillys to have them run the codes. At no time does the check engine light come on during normal operation only during the initial flash when the car restarts.
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Feb 11, 2018 03:49
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Geoj posted:Your Durango uses 9006 bulbs; about 10 years ago some bulb manufacturers started producing halogen infrared bulbs which have a coating on the inside of the bulb that bounces infrared radiation back at the filament resulting in 75% higher lumen output at the same current & voltage. If you can find a pair of 9012 HIR bulbs (they're somewhat rare as the technology didn't really take off) the bases can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets in your headlights, at which point they're physically and optically identical to normal 9006 halogens. On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option?
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Feb 11, 2018 03:49
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Geoj posted:Your Durango uses 9006 bulbs; about 10 years ago some bulb manufacturers started producing halogen infrared bulbs which have a coating on the inside of the bulb that bounces infrared radiation back at the filament resulting in 75% higher lumen output at the same current & voltage. If you can find a pair of 9012 HIR bulbs (they're somewhat rare as the technology didn't really take off) the bases can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets in your headlights, at which point they're physically and optically identical to normal 9006 halogens. This is amazing and my next weekend project. Never did I expect to be able to get that bright. Cheers mate,
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Feb 11, 2018 05:26
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tangy yet delightful posted:On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option? Unless there's an optically similar bulb that fits in your headlights and has higher output options are limited. Blue coated bulbs like silverstars are largely snake oil, and overdriven bulbs are made by sketchy manufacturers and can overheat/melt factory harnesses and housings. You can get premium OE bulbs from European manufacturers/brands - GE Nighthawk, Narva Rangepower or Phillips Vision Plus, which will typically be at the high end of a given bulb's output specification, but you'll only be looking at a 5-10% output increase over the bulbs the car came with.
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Feb 11, 2018 07:43
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tangy yet delightful posted:On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option? Geoj posted:Unless there's an optically similar bulb that fits in your headlights and has higher output options are limited. Blue coated bulbs like silverstars are largely snake oil, and overdriven bulbs are made by sketchy manufacturers and can overheat/melt factory harnesses and housings. Sure, sure, or... https://www.rallyinnovations.com/collections/rally-light-bar and https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sY6KTPJNwQo
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Feb 11, 2018 14:38
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tangy yet delightful posted:On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option? Your Impreza uses H11 bulbs, my Prius C does as well. I modified some H9 bulbs by cutting the tab inside the connector of the bulb with a sidecutter. The H9 is 65 watts instead of 55 watts. The H9 is 2100 lumens vs the H11's 1350, so it's significantly brighter, but looks totally stock in terms of color temperature. Way more light on the road, but I've never been flashed with these. The downside is the H9 has half the life of the H11, so you'll be replacing them often, like once a year. My headlights are not difficult to replace, and normal H9 bulbs are less than $10, so I really like them. I really hate LED/HID bulbs for foggy/snowy driving. Even OEM LED setups make it much harder to see. I was driving a 2014 Corolla in a snowstorm once and it was just useless. I really like stock halogen or even yellower lights for fog/snow.
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Feb 11, 2018 16:18
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H9 in H11 housing works very well. I've been running bone-stock Osram H9s in my wife's '06 Fusion for over a year - no melted harnesses or housings, no flashing from opposing traffic and substantially brighter than the H11s it came with. builds character posted:Sure, sure, or... https://www.rallyinnovations.com/collections/rally-light-bar and https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sY6KTPJNwQo If blinding oncoming traffic isn't a concern you could just slap in a HID retrofit kit and bolt on 2 or 3 "off-road use only" auxiliary LED bars too... Geoj fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Feb 11, 2018 |
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Feb 11, 2018 20:41
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0toShifty posted:Your Impreza uses H11 bulbs, my Prius C does as well. That's awesome, I am definitely going to do this and then I'll probably just buy some spares to keep in the glovebox. That, or I'll get a lightbar 
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Feb 11, 2018 21:34
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Yeah please stay away from the fake rear end HID bullshit. Thank you. Sincerely: other drivers.
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Feb 11, 2018 21:42
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My friend's 2004 Toyota Rav4 has a broken passenger-side sun visor thingy, and it's clear to me that it's trivially easy to replace as long as I can find the part. Where's a good place online to get a cheap replacement? Is there something akin to bikebandit for cars? I'm more used to bikes.
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Feb 12, 2018 00:48
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https://www.rockauto.com and/or Amazon prime once you have the part number.
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Feb 12, 2018 01:15
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Got new battery. Put new battery in. Bolt and clip that holds battery in place broke off during removal, so now battery is just waited down by its own 65lbs or whatever. I assume it might still move around while I'm driving or over bumps, etc. When I re-connected the terminals to the post, the positive terminal was a little too small for the post. I got it to stretch over since it's soft lead, and tightened it. SEEMS like everything is hooked up okay, if not a little rigged in some aspects. But technically, I don't see any electrical misconnections. The battery light keeps coming on? I did my google and it seems this sometimes happens after a battery replacement. But it's bothering me, because out of 5 starts, 1 of those is a missed connection and I have to go mess with the battery cables to get it to start. While driving everything is fine, except the RED battery light wont go off. I dont want more issues down the road with this. Any suggestions?
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Feb 12, 2018 17:43
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Battery light while running usually typically indicates an alternator issue.
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Feb 12, 2018 17:56
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EightBit posted:Man, you guys are doing canoe/kayak tie downs the hard way. Do your boats not have hard tie down points that you can run a ratchet strap through? My Ranger is old enough to drink in the States, and I absolutely treat it like crap and literally bash on it with a big dumb hammer. But I don't want to create new places for the rust monster to dig in, and I don't want to build up any bad habits for the next time I put a boat on a nice car. Where rope bends over a part of the bodywork I'll pad the contact point with a bit of scrap leather held in place with duct tape (to the rope, not to a painted surface!). All bets are off if you're putting a bunch of boats on a trailer. Ratchet straps would make standardization across the entire load easier, and probably quicker to set up and take down. Dennis McClaren posted:While driving everything is fine, except the RED battery light wont go off. I dont want more issues down the road with this. Any suggestions? Today I'm all about the tieing things down.
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Feb 12, 2018 18:04
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Back for another stupid question on my motovan build. Last time I was asking about removing the seat railings (a job 0 bodyshops are interested in, fwiw). Fortunately, I've decided to weld one side of the bike mounts to the seat railings as that should provide a pretty sturdy mount and then I can use some steel spacers down to the van floor where I can bolt through and just use bolts + huge washers. Second, a new problem has cropped up. To refresh, this is an '04 AWD savana with 165k miles on a 5.3 v8. Symptoms Whenever I put gas in it, it cranks and doesn't want to start. If it does start, it dies immediately. I can get it to stay running by giving it gas, but if I stop giving it gas it dies immediately. The idle isn't particularly rough when it's trying to die and I'm giving it gas. If I'm fast, I can rev to keep it running, stop revving, put it in gear, rev again to stop it from dying, but then it tries to die, revs and sort of slams into gear which, frankly, sounds like a pretty dumb thing for me to do more than once. If I rev it a bit and don't let it die, then after maybe a minute it's fine. I can start it normally 100% of the time and can turn it off after it's been running anywhere from two seconds to two hours and it will start with no break or with a 2-5 minute break (roughly the equivalent of how long it takes to fill up with gas) with no issues so I'm assuming it's not some sensor related to hot starts. Has anyone heard of something like this/have advice? I am currently assuming it is the fuel pump and that I should test to make sure it's putting out appropriate pressure, but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas before doing that. There are no check engine lights/OBDII codes. Here you can see the eventual plan sort of shaping up. That cardboard is for mocking up the wall I'm going to put right behind the seat. One bike on the left, one bike on the right and then a little bike in between (maybe facing the other way). 
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Feb 12, 2018 19:37
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 22:55 |
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when my '89 f150 was having issues with idle (could gas to keep alive) it ended up being the MAP sensor. but i also checked the iac valve and the TPS/throttle body. i'd start there and make sure they all test within range.
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Feb 12, 2018 23:15
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