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Crossposting my Swooping HawksBoon posted:Three more of these guys to go, four Shining Spears, and maaaaaaybe a custom Skyrunner Autarch before Adepticon.
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Feb 9, 2018 02:47
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Yeast posted:Stynelrez. its weird for me my old garbage airbrush worked with stynelrez primer but vallejo would splatter and do weird stuff no matter if you thinned it or not, but my 105 is the opposite gives no shits about state of vallejo but sputters and gets dry tip with stynelrez no matter how I mess with it. 
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Feb 9, 2018 03:42
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Yeast posted:Stynelrez. Oh yeah, I switched over last year. Way nicer matte, way thinner. It was more meant to show that sometimes you just get an unreproduceable, nonsensical error because airbrushes run on voodoo and luck, rather than physics.
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Feb 9, 2018 04:39
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Here’s a weird question: if I’m moving across the country (and we’re not driving there), what’s the best way to send hobby supplies like paint and solvents to my new place? Or will I have to just get rid of it all and buy replacements? This is in the US and we’re using movers, but they obviously don’t take anything flammable. (Maybe I won’t even be able to take my acrylic paints either...)
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Feb 9, 2018 08:39
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You'll be fine boxing them up, it's just acrylic paint. Maybe throw them in zip lock bags if you're worried about them somehow popping.
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Feb 9, 2018 09:12
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I’m not super worried about my acrylics, but I’m a bit worried about my spray paints and lacquers and such. I might be able to mail them to myself? I just hate to waste stuff like this...
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Feb 9, 2018 09:16
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Yeah, you'd be fine mailing those if the movers are putting your stuff on a plane. They get shipped all the time.
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Feb 9, 2018 09:34
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Avenging Dentist posted:I’m not super worried about my acrylics, but I’m a bit worried about my spray paints and lacquers and such. I might be able to mail them to myself? I just hate to waste stuff like this... Mailing should be fine. Check local regulations for the spray paint, but stuff like glues should be fine. Alternatively you can check some of that stuff if you're flying.
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Feb 9, 2018 15:45
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Quick question. I'm going to get my paints in about an hours time and I want to get this colour on my guns:  There's no way I'm going to be able to do the mad poo poo with the tubes hanging out the bottom of it but does the following seem about right: Incubi Darkness Drakenhof Nightshade Baharoth/Teslis/Lothern Blue I can't decide whether it's the "Sea Green" in the Citadel app (Incubi Darkness, Coelia Greenshade, Kabalite Green, Sybarite Green) or closer to what I've listed above. e: maybe I want incubi darkness with nuln oil?
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Feb 9, 2018 16:28
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Why not buy a few and experiment?
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Feb 9, 2018 16:34
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Not a bad idea actually. Guess I'll get both and do a few test gaunts. This is what I'm going to go for, any comments/criticism welcome. Skin Base: Ceramic White Shade: Drakenhof Nightshade Layer: Pallid Wich Flesh Edge: White Scar Carapace Base: 1st Abbadon Black, Khorne Red Shade: Nuln Oil Layer/Edge: Wazzadakka/Wild Rider Tubes/Small skin details Caledor Sky Drakenhof Nightshade Teclis Blue Lothern Blue Weapon/Hooves Incubi Darkness Drakenhof Nightshade Baharoth/Teslis/Lothern Blue Teeth Base: Rakarth Flesh Shade: Rekland Fleshshade Layer: Pallid Wych Flesh Edge: White Scar Wings Base: 1st, Abbadon Black, 2nd Khorne Red Shade: Carroburg Crimson Edge/Layer: Wazdakka/Wild Rider Mouth/Toungue Screamer Pink Carroburg Crimson Pink Horror Emperor’s Children Eyes Nuln Oil Blue Horror
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Feb 9, 2018 16:38
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Just make sure whatever method you pick doesn't make you go crazy as you do all your troops. Also the gun effect looks like a fairly simple blend that you could do with some practice.
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Feb 9, 2018 16:46
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Z the IVth posted:Avoiding the dreaded pink with red is always tricky. I've not tried it personally, but I think you could go one of two ways Thanks for the words and advice. Im going to put some time into him today SRM posted:This board is so loving cool and I wish I was playing on it instead of my kinda whatever Tablescapes board. Thanks man. I'm really pleased with how it turned out
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Feb 9, 2018 17:23
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Entropy238 posted:Not a bad idea actually. Guess I'll get both and do a few test gaunts. The turquoise in the blue mix almost makes me think there's Sotek Green in there, so maybe consider that as one of your base coat options (it's also a great color in general). Coelia Greenshade is also really pretty as an alternative to Drakenhof. Good luck, post pictures!
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Feb 9, 2018 17:58
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Been ages since i posted the first colour test for this but i finally got the airbrushing for the starter fleet done today.
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Feb 9, 2018 19:07
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I got some Tamiya acrylic paint. I only really have experience with Citadel paint, should Tamiya behave the same?
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Feb 9, 2018 21:23
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I think the main difference is that it's alcohol-based. I'm not sure how well water would work to thin it (or how well it'd mix with water-based acrylics). Everything else should be pretty similar though?
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Feb 9, 2018 21:27
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Bistromatic posted:Been ages since i posted the first colour test for this but i finally got the airbrushing for the starter fleet done today. Those are gonna look lovely
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Feb 9, 2018 21:28
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Avenging Dentist posted:I think the main difference is that it's alcohol-based. I'm not sure how well water would work to thin it (or how well it'd mix with water-based acrylics). Everything else should be pretty similar though? Water works extremely poorly with Tamiya paints. I ruined several models the first time I started working with it, all because no one had told me that. You can thin it with high percentage alcohol, or with Tamiya's own expensive (but good) thinner. It's pretty easy to work with, once you learn to keep water away from it, but there is a little bit of a learning curve. I don't know if Mango Polo reads this thread, but he might be worth messaging, he is something of an expert of the stuff.
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Feb 9, 2018 21:32
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What's the technique for thinning with paint thinner? When I use water I can just dip brush in paint, wipe paint on pallet, dip brush in water, mix with paint on pallet. But that eventually contaminates the water. Which is no problem with tap water, I just throw out the remainder and get some more, but that seems wasteful if I'm doing it with paint thinner.
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Feb 9, 2018 21:45
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I HATE painting marines. But I love my large idiot sons.           Also I haven't painting in like, nine months or so.
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Feb 9, 2018 21:51
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Guy Goodbody posted:What's the technique for thinning with paint thinner? When I use water I can just dip brush in paint, wipe paint on pallet, dip brush in water, mix with paint on pallet. But that eventually contaminates the water. Which is no problem with tap water, I just throw out the remainder and get some more, but that seems wasteful if I'm doing it with paint thinner. Use a dropper bottle.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:13
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Don't use a dropper bottle because it will either melt through the bottle or evaporate through the top. Use a glass eye dropper, but be careful not to get the spirit into the rubber part. I also recommend mineral spirit and not turpentine.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:25
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Boon posted:Crossposting my Swooping Hawks I was thinking of doing this theme with my Scourges as well. Purple & Teal is one of my favorite combos.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:26
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BULBASAUR posted:Don't use a dropper bottle because it will either melt through the bottle or evaporate through the top. True if it is like turpentine, turpenoid or odorless mineral spirits, but acrylic thinners are fine with plastic.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:28
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BULBASAUR posted:Don't use a dropper bottle because it will either melt through the bottle or evaporate through the top. I assume he's not using actual paint thinner for water-based acrylics. EDIT: I'm a dummy, he's using Tamiya paints.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:32
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Use a dropper bottle. That makes sense. Thanks. Felime posted:True if it is like turpentine, turpenoid or odorless mineral spirits, but acrylic thinners are fine with plastic. Tamiya thinner comes in a plastic bottle, so I'm assuming that should be fine
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Feb 9, 2018 22:32
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I need some advice on brushes. When I first got back into this a couple of months ago I got the following:
My understanding now is that these brushes are average at best and bad at worst. The 000 has stray hairs and doesn't hold a point, the Standard brush has a fork in it and a stray strand and the S Layer has one stray strand. I've gotten better at looking after them (brush soap, not leaving them on their tips, not letting paint get halfway past the tip etc.). I'm trying to figure out is this something I've done or are these brushes prone to this? I'm keen to maybe get some better brushes but don't want to waste my money if I'm doing something wrong which might ruin them.
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Feb 10, 2018 00:04
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Guy Goodbody posted:Tamiya thinner comes in a plastic bottle, so I'm assuming that should be fine The kind of plastic matters here! Remember, even nail polish remover (acetone) comes in plastic bottles, but it will melt your polystyrene figures. If you're not certain that the plastic is compatible with your thinner, don't use it.
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Feb 10, 2018 00:35
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Welp, 5 hours later and here's my first gaunt: Bear in mind this is the first thing I've painted in about 13-14 years. Some things I learned: – Make sure the caps are fully down on the washes before you shake them  – Washes are amazing – I need to get better brushes, couldn't get a fine enough point to do feathering
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Feb 10, 2018 00:58
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So I'm working on this primaris libertarian, and I've done zandri dust on the interior cloak.  I think I want the outer cloak to be red. I have mephiston and evil sunz scarlet. Would a base of the first and layer of the second look like this? It's what I'm working off of, apart from the blue and (better painting skills, of course) 
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Feb 10, 2018 03:14
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Red_Fred posted:I need some advice on brushes. When I first got back into this a couple of months ago I got the following: I went through the same thing with Army Painter brushes, which I assume are around the same level as Citadel. The brushes don't hold a point after one painting session, there's loose strands that drag paint onto unwanted areas when attempting to do delicate work, etc. My friend who's really good swears by the highest "tier" of brushes from Michael's craft store, which I have. They're good brushes as far as not falling apart, but the hairs seem to be not as good at holding paint. Trying to thin the paint often results in a mess as the brush seems to hold onto the water and "let go" of the actual pigment, meaning any kind of watering down paint turns it into a wash. He thinks it's because I'm thinning with water and maybe Lahmian Medium would work better. I bought a W&N Series 7 #0 and it's really nice compared to any other brush I've tried, but I've only had one session with it.
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Feb 10, 2018 07:16
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I can echo the sentiment that the Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes are fantastic for the price. I used to regularly chew through the cheapo synthetic sets and just accept that they would fray or get hooked tips or whatever after a couple months. When I finally decided to drop ten or fifteen bucks a piece on three of the W&N brushes I was pretty blown away at how much better they both handled and cleaned up, and still have those same three from a year or so ago and they still hold their shape fantastically. It's absolutely worth it.
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Feb 10, 2018 10:08
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The really nice thing about better brushes like the Series 7s and Raphael 8404s of the world is that the bigger brushes (1s and 2s) will hold a point that's fine enough for everything up to and possibly including eyeballs depending on the steadiness of your hand. This means you get to use a brush with a larger capacity for paint, which in turns means that it tends to keep flowing off the brush well for a much longer period of time. I do the overwhelming majority of my work with a #2 Series 7, and only rarely do I reach for the #1 or #0.
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Feb 10, 2018 11:29
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Entropy238 posted:
I learned the hard way that with the first GW pots I've bought since early 2000's. Half of my Agrax Earthshade ended up in the bottom of my art box and I only noticed because something dripped on my sock; there was a trail across the kitchen. They click shut, but you also have to click them shut on the back side.  Also gonna praise the WN 7 series #1, it has such a nice point. I also happened to have a stray Blick Studio Series #4 round that has been great too. It's kolinsky red sable and holds a point so far, been great for anything but fine detail. I'd pick up some smaller sizes of those when I am in need of brushes.
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Feb 10, 2018 16:28
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What’s the best way to thin paint using a wet palette? I tried making a homemade one and I got the impression that the water makes it a) self-thinning and b) maybe too runny at times. I didn’t end up using my water pot at all. Is this normal?
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Feb 10, 2018 17:39
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Tardigrade posted:What’s the best way to thin paint using a wet palette? I tried making a homemade one and I got the impression that the water makes it a) self-thinning and b) maybe too runny at times. I didn’t end up using my water pot at all. Is this normal? I don't know about a "best" way to thin paint on a wet palette, but one method I've seen is where people put the paint on the palette in blobs, unthinned, with drops of a water-flow improver mix nearby. This lets them mix their paints to the desired consistency on the fly. (I have yet to master this technique, being more in favor of the "let's overdrench the palette paper and let everything flow together into one huge colorless mass by the end of the week" method.) TheBigAristotle posted:So I'm working on this primaris libertarian, and I've done zandri dust on the interior cloak. I like those shades so far, but I'd suggest that you shade the recesses on the reds with a really contrasting color, like a purple or dark blue. As long as you apply it in thin enough layers, the effect will be pretty striking. (Definitely go for a cool blue or turquoise somewhere else on the model, though, like on the force sword; variety will really make this guy pop.)
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Feb 10, 2018 18:03
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Dr. Gargunza posted:I don't know about a "best" way to thin paint on a wet palette, but one method I've seen is where people put the paint on the palette in blobs, unthinned, with drops of a water-flow improver mix nearby. This lets them mix their paints to the desired consistency on the fly. (I have yet to master this technique, being more in favor of the "let's overdrench the palette paper and let everything flow together into one huge colorless mass by the end of the week" method.) I was thinking about a green on the blade, something really bright, I see a lot of blues on that sword in photos. Yay or nay? (I have no sense for aesthetics)
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Feb 10, 2018 18:11
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Tardigrade posted:What’s the best way to thin paint using a wet palette? I tried making a homemade one and I got the impression that the water makes it a) self-thinning and b) maybe too runny at times. I didn’t end up using my water pot at all. Is this normal? You might be using too much water in the pallete. It shouldn't appear to be watering down the paint, just keeping it from drying out. Are you using parchment paper or something else?
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Feb 10, 2018 18:17
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Booyah- posted:You might be using too much water in the pallete. It shouldn't appear to be watering down the paint, just keeping it from drying out. Are you using parchment paper or something else? Reynolds Parchment paper, it says so on the box. Standard cooking issue. I do think I might be putting too much water then.
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Feb 10, 2018 18:23
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