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devicenull posted:Ugh, bathroom sink stopped working... snaking it worked but I was tempted to just throw the snake away afterwards rather then clean the hair and black muck off it. Just rinse it off in the bathroom sink! Problem solved.
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Feb 10, 2018 19:32
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Front door inside handle broke, and the set I bought from Home Depot didn’t fit my 2 3/8” door. Luckily the manufacturer of my current setup is local, so 2 hours later I have one with a thick door kit, for half the price.
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Feb 10, 2018 19:51
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I feel like I unlocked a homeowner achievement this weekend. I bought a pressure washer at Costco- the 3100 PSI one with the Honda engine. I've already cleaned the whole driveway and front porch, now I'm looking for other things to pressure wash.
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Feb 12, 2018 19:01
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Whatever you do don’t use it on a shingles roof. Looked at a house once where that had obviously been done. Inspector said the roof needed to be replaced because of how scored it was.
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Feb 12, 2018 19:22
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Economic Sinkhole posted:I feel like I unlocked a homeowner achievement this weekend. I bought a pressure washer at Costco- the 3100 PSI one with the Honda engine. I've already cleaned the whole driveway and front porch, now I'm looking for other things to pressure wash.  That's a lot of PSI. The "1700" PSI harbor fright one cleans pretty well, but it is a fairly narrow stream.
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Feb 12, 2018 19:33
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Whatever you do don’t use it on a shingles roof. Even ignoring damage to the roof, it'd be waaaay too easy to spray water up underneath the shingles. and rip apart the tar paper underneath that, at which point the water would have easy access to your roof deck. Enjoy your new, rotten roof that has to be completely torn down and replaced!
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Feb 12, 2018 19:37
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Mower chat reminded me that I'd left my mower under a tarp below my back deck all winter and hadn't done anything to prep it for winter. I decided to go for broke, so I put some old fuel in it and it started after a half-dozen pulls. I think this fuel is from before we bought this house, so its over 18 months old. That said, I really need to get a new mower. My lawn is 90% on a fairly steep hill and the FWD doesn't really do anything to get up the hill. To make it worse, I'm in the pacific northwest and our grass is thick and wet in the spring and the first mow of spring can clog your mower every ten feet. I was interested in AWD mowers, but from what I can find they have limited utility over a decent RWD model. I'm currently eyeballing this model. H110Hawk posted:
I'm not sure of the PSI, but when I used a gas pressure washer at my old house with the 1 degree nozzle, it literally blew blacktop off the driveway and shot it 10 ft into the air.
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Feb 14, 2018 06:15
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Kanish posted:Ha I just bought a dishwasher from lowes, and they offered $15 install and hauling away, so I took them up on it. The contractor they used to deliver and install didn't call the day before, and emailed my wife an I a window of 4 - 6 pm. When my wife got home at 3:30 pm the dishwasher was sitting on the front porch. Honestly, all of the delivery/install people that the big box stores hire out are garbage. We had non-stop issues with delivery and install with a dishwasher from Home Depot and a fridge from JCPenney. If you have a local shop that price matches, go with them instead. Only good install experience I’ve had was with a screen door from Home Depot. Guy was extremely knowledgeable and knocked it out quick and with quality.
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Feb 14, 2018 06:27
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Do electric mowers still need to be prepped for winter? Authentically curious, I don't live in a climate with snow
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Feb 14, 2018 06:35
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I mean maybe if there is a battery you could take that out? Probably not much else.
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Feb 14, 2018 07:00
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HEY NONG MAN posted:I mean maybe if there is a battery you could take that out? Probably not much else. You probably shouldn't be leaving the battery in them anyways.
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Feb 14, 2018 11:09
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After closing on my house on Dec 20th, taking possession on the 29th, having my pipes freeze over New Year's, I will finally spend the first night in my house tonight.  That said, my kitchen cabinets are still off the wall in the kitchen, which still has pipes exposed. Bathroom tile isn't 100% finished, kitchen ceiling suffered water damage when they were repairing (you'd think they'd use compressed air to check for leaks rather than just turning on the water - this is the one thing I'm genuinely upset/annoyed about). But at least, as soon as I put up the shower curtain rod, I'll have a house that functions. Technically I could use the stove, but it's 3 feet away from the wall right now... Never should have bought a house 
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Feb 14, 2018 21:25
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totalnewbie posted:After closing on my house on Dec 20th, taking possession on the 29th, having my pipes freeze over New Year's, I will finally spend the first night in my house tonight. Whatever happened with the utility covering the damages? You have any luck with that?
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Feb 15, 2018 03:33
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Insurance isn't filing a claim until they get all the repairs done and over with so they know how much to go after them for. Also discovered the cold water from the sink tap is literally a trickle. Hope that's easily fixed
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Feb 15, 2018 05:06
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Your supply line for your cold water might be occluded to the point that it has no way to supply an adequate flow. Are your pipes galvanized by chance?
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Feb 15, 2018 05:22
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No, copper. They were just repaired. I sent a video to the contractor. Well, who needs to wash their hands anyway..
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Feb 15, 2018 14:07
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Edit: wrong thread
Sepist fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Feb 15, 2018 |
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Feb 15, 2018 14:29
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So it looks like the previous owners did a bang up job keeping the house up to code, I just have one issue - the taxes. The county tax assessment is for a 2 family but it's a single family home. There is a mother daughter suite upstairs we plan to rent in a month. If I get my taxes fixed it will lower my taxes by 4k based on comps. There's no way I get an assessor out here before I rent it out right? I guess my alternative is don't rent it yet but I'm worried the assessor will see the cabinets and mark it as a second kitchen
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Feb 16, 2018 13:27
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Sepist posted:So it looks like the previous owners did a bang up job keeping the house up to code, I just have one issue - the taxes. I don't know what state you are in but just because you are not renting it doesn't change the facts. I can't buy a 8 unit walk up and leave it empty except for me and get it taxed as a single family. Now if you are not zoned for multi family you might have a good argument it is for a parent. That said just call the assessor and get them to lower whatever you can. That is the game. If they are up for election they will want your vote in the primary where 15 people vote.
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Feb 16, 2018 14:21
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Wait, if you're planning on renting out the upstairs doesn't that make it a 2 family home or are you trying to cheat on taxes? edit: I use the term 'cheat' loosely. I moved out of my house, rented it, and a year later, moved back in. During the rental time, I lost the homestead exemption. My taxes went up some ridiculous number. I went to the county tax office and the lady just had me sign a form saying it was a non rental vacation property, and the taxes went back down to homestead exemption rate. Just tell them what you're trying to accomplish and most likely they'll help you out and it will take like 15 minutes. TheWevel fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 17:38
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Yes I'm trying to loosely cheat my taxes I guess. Doesn't matter the assessment office is flooded they won't be out here for a long time and by then we will have a renter. Best case is they don't even look at my property type grievance and just give me the standard 6% they do everyone else here.
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Feb 17, 2018 19:37
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Oh good you weren't able to lie your way into an undeserved reassessment, that's a relief to the rest of us
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Feb 17, 2018 20:37
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Our new house had this sitting outside that didn't get cleaned up by agent any idea what it is? If I want to try to get rid of it by putting it up on Craiglist for free it'd help to know. (Wood thing in good condition might be ignored)
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Feb 19, 2018 07:06
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FuzzySlippers posted:Our new house had this sitting outside that didn't get cleaned up by agent The wood thing in lovely condition is a half assed attempt as a raised landscape bed. The one (two) in good condition is for firewood. Chances are good you have a fireplace and actually have a use for those.
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Feb 19, 2018 07:26
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Motronic posted:The wood thing in lovely condition is a half assed attempt as a raised landscape bed. The one (two) in good condition is for firewood. Thanks. So the two things with rails help firewood delivery or just storage? We have a fireplace and they left a huge mound of firewood. (I have never lived in a house with a fireplace in working order, I'm pretty fireplace dumb)
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Feb 19, 2018 08:37
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You stack the wood on it. Keep it covered or under a roof.
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Feb 19, 2018 08:39
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So my wife and I finally bit the bullet and ordered new quartz coutnertops this weekend. This is replacing older laminate counter tops where the backsplash goes up the wall and is the same material as the laminate top. We want to install a tile backsplash once the new counters are installed, but we need to have the old backsplash off the wall before the fabricator templates for the new countertops. I pulled out the range to test how easy it would be to remove the backsplash and unfortunately it is glued on quite well and is taking most of the wall with it. Does anyone have experience with tiling over a laminate backsplash? Google tells me it's okay as long as it's roughed up.
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Feb 20, 2018 16:54
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but the drywall out and just install a new piece. It's faster. Also don't tile over laminate.
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Feb 20, 2018 16:56
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I had a really similar situation, but it was painted formica over 2 layers of old glue from previous tile and who knows what else. Couldn't pull the drywall off as it was old plaster and crumbly in corners and a huge mess, so I ended up scraping off all the formica, leveling out the old glue with joint compound, sanding as flat as possible, then putting up new 1/2" drywall on top of it with adhesive and screws. Then tiled on top of that. Turned out great.
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Feb 20, 2018 17:28
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Goons, last weekend (2/9 - 2/11) it rained like hell for three straight days. I noticed some minor flooding in my basement that I patched up. That patch has held just fine (we've had about 4 days of lighter rain on and off since) but while down in the basement patching the leak and cleaning up the mess I noticed the Sump Pump going a mile a minute. My sump currently takes about 2 minutes from empty to overflowing. I understand the sump pump is serving its intended purpose, but nine days later it's still running on a cycle of about kicking on every 10 seconds and running for 3-5 seconds day and night. I looked out back and my yard is still very much water-logged, so I understand the water it's ejecting is just seeping back in. I'm one burned out motor or power outage from disaster and it's a terrible feeling. Wanting to be proactive instead of saying "good enough", I plan to dig an underground basin further away from the house (with the help of a handy neighbor) to try and keep the water further away from the foundation in the future. I figure if I'm doing that I may as well get myself a new pump and check valves at the same time since the current ones came with the house and who knows how much life it's got left. The previous owners were anything but organized and handy; they took an impressive amount of shortcuts everywhere they could. The one I have now is a 1/3hp Flowtec pedestal pump. After basic Google searching it sounds like submersible pumps are better. Does anyone have a good recommendation on which one to buy, assuming my pit can accommodate one? I am willing to pay more as 2,3, or 4 hundred spent now sounds a lot better than 2,3, or 4 thousand spent after a lovely pump dies at the worse possible time. Also curious if I should upgrade to 1/2hp, or if 1/3 is fine since the current one seems to be getting the job done. The house also came with a Craftsman battery backup / emergency secondary pump I am debating replacing too, if anyone has suggestions there as well. At minimum I am going to replace the check valve on it because I think some water is coming back down the pipe based on the sounds I hear. The sump shoots up about 9 feet of pipe and currently discharges into my back yard about 2 feet from the foundation. The pit itself looks to be regulation, based on other pits I've seen in homes. Rough estimate is 18" deep, 18 or 24 inches across.
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Feb 20, 2018 23:56
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No Butt Stuff posted:but the drywall out and just install a new piece. It's faster. Also don't tile over laminate. Yeah cut out the drywall behind the backsplash and replace. They sell this light tile backer that is easier to stick tile too and water resistant.
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Feb 21, 2018 02:39
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loving joys of homeownership my furnace isn't transitioning from the initial test airflow stage to the "fire" stage. It's going to get down to 32f here tonight and my fragile Los Angeles skin cannot take the bitter cold.
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Feb 21, 2018 04:52
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check your pilot light and/or thermocouple. My furnace just runs air when the pilot light is out, or when it thinks the pilot light is out (which causes it to cut off the gas to the pilot light).
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Feb 21, 2018 04:54
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Leperflesh posted:check your pilot light and/or thermocouple. My furnace just runs air when the pilot light is out, or when it thinks the pilot light is out (which causes it to cut off the gas to the pilot light). Last time this happened it was a critter had chewed a wire that was to (I presume) the thermocouple. I am hoping that repair simply failed. I have never been up there so this should be an adventure. My dad fixed it last time. 
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Feb 21, 2018 05:01
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Yeah, I had a similar problem, turned out that when I replaced the furnace air filter, I accidentally caught the (~24-gauge) thermocouple wire in the furnace door. That was a delicate soldering job, at least compared to the copper pipe I more usually work with.
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Feb 21, 2018 05:25
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poo poo I need to change my furnace filters. Gotta make a calendar reminder or some poo poo.
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Feb 21, 2018 06:39
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I too need to change my filter. Sadly this was all steady state - it worked this morning, and the filter is remote from the furnace. I made a bigger post in the fix it fast thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734407&pagenumber=541#post481492602 Also now that my attic hatch is insulated plus has a 6" loose fill insulation dam built it is both REALLY heavy compared to its old plywood self, plus harder to climb into with my shorty ladder.
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Feb 21, 2018 07:04
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The Rev posted:discharges into my back yard about 2 feet from the foundation I think I found your problem
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Feb 21, 2018 14:50
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Ghostnuke posted:I think I found your problem Depending on the soil/grade around the outlet, but yeah. If your sump is filling up then by definition your soil is at saturation, and pumping the water out that close will only help once the top layer begin drying out by effectively pumping the ground water flooding your sump up to the surface so it can evaporate. If you can't run it down to a storm drain, somewhere with a grade that will cause it to flow away from the house would really be preferable.
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Feb 21, 2018 15:19
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HEY NONG MAN posted:poo poo I need to change my furnace filters. Gotta make a calendar reminder or some poo poo. Most thermostats have a bug that will pop up unless you insist upon the good old honeywell dial o matic.
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Feb 21, 2018 16:17
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