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Powershift posted:After 2? years of it being mounted, i finally wired in my pick-n-pull switch panel. Powershift posted:powerfist butt I am such a child Metal Geir Skogul posted:Conversion vans and/or old ambulances are chock full of expensive, awesome switches. You'll appreciate this: I found an ambulance once in the self-service yard. All the equipment had been removed, but all the (high-quality!) wiring was still there, and some miscellaneous breaker and switch panels. If I had the time and money then, I would have stripped the whole rear cabin. As it was, I hacked out a 6' bundle of nice 14-12 gauge wires with nice automotive grade insulation, and a pile of self-resetting breakers that fit into standard blade fuse holders. Those breakers are handy for troubleshooting something that keeps popping fuses.
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# ? Feb 9, 2018 23:27 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 03:59 |
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Powershift posted:
Are those the right dies for RBY crimps? The ones on the outside kinda look more like it. Also, if it's like the ratcheting crimpers I'm used to using, usually there's a little rotary toothed thinger on the handle somewhere for setting how tightly it crimps. Does yours have that thinger? Probably all stuff you are aware of anyway
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# ? Feb 10, 2018 07:24 |
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Dad's truck, '05 Nissan Titan, has been in dire need of some TLC for the past year but I've only had time for the bare-minimum critical stuff (brakes, cooling system, erc.) His starter finally started giving out. I was summoned after Dad became somewhat intimidated by the phrase "Remove Intake Manifold". Oh no. Don't loving tell me... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmwULeXiSCU Goddammit. "I've got the little fokker in sight!" Stopped for beer and pizza. Already got the new starter slotted in. Gonna go ahead and do the plugs as well, since they're nearly 200k miles old. Should do the right bank valve cover gasket, it's a little bit weepy, but Dad forgot to order them so welp. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Feb 10, 2018 |
# ? Feb 10, 2018 20:49 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Project Miata: Mine were so rusted I couldn't even tell that it was a torx fitting. Explains why the allen key I managed to pound in didn't actually work, despite the fact that it seemed to fit. I wound up grabbing the ball with vice grips through the rubber boot, and getting an impact on the nut. It took a while, but worked in the end. At which point I replaced the swaybar and endlinks with adjustable ones.
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# ? Feb 10, 2018 23:09 |
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Beach Bum posted:Dad's truck, '05 Nissan Titan, has been in dire need of some TLC for the past year but I've only had time for the bare-minimum critical stuff (brakes, cooling system, erc.) Did they team up with Toyota for this bullshit? I've had to do starters on the 1uz in the ls400? and it's godawful. With 240k miles on my truck, I know my time is coming.... At least there's enough access between the runners you can beat on it with a stick if it dies. Chevy makes a v8 with pushrods that's easy to work on and it continues to be more powerful, reliable*, and fuel efficient than anything else on the market. Something to be said for simplicity * except for the first generation of active cylinder deactivation...
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 00:55 |
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Since I've had the Crown I've been trying to figure out why the audio is so quiet. Looking through the manuals and things I could find seemed to point out a factory amplifier for the thing. I assumed it was some sort of problem with that since it would explain why the audio was there, just super quiet. In poking around it and checking the fuses, crawling all over the inside and under the hood, I noticed something. It has rear stereo controls for the backseat passengers. There is an analog volume knob back there. It was turned almost down to zero. A little twist and wow fixed the stereo being quiet real quick. Now I have to figure out what to do with the whole thing proper, the two rear rear speakers do not work and the rest are old and clippy. The headunit will allow a perfectly placed double din touchscreen unit right in it's place too!
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 01:01 |
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KakerMix posted:The headunit will allow a perfectly placed double din touchscreen unit right in it's place too! love that.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 01:07 |
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sneakyfrog posted:love that.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 01:15 |
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That's the kind of stuff companies should be copying, not all the touchscreen bullshit.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 01:41 |
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guuuh if you dont wire up those top switches you are a criminal.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 01:44 |
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I don't know why you would want to change any of that. Just get a cassette adapter.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 02:02 |
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Rhyno posted:I don't know why you would want to change any of that. Just get a cassette adapter. I agree with this, or add an aux in directly if the head unit has an unused input
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 02:03 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I agree with this, or add an aux in directly if the head unit has an unused input Another option would be to wire in a secondary HU under a seat or in the trunk.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 02:05 |
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TrueChaos posted:Mine were so rusted I couldn't even tell that it was a torx fitting. Explains why the allen key I managed to pound in didn't actually work, despite the fact that it seemed to fit. Mine were also completely rusted inside. They were completely rounded off inside as well as the nut being seized onto the threads. I tried hex keys in standard and metric as well as torx drives and nothing worked so it got wheel’d. I did a standard end link because I just wanted to match the other side for when I resell the car in the spring; trying to keep costs low.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 02:21 |
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I agree with this, or add an aux in directly if the head unit has an unused input Buy an FM modulator (not a transmitter). iSimple makes one for $20 that will do an aux input, for like $60 you can add bluetooth. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPB...1518312961&sr=2 https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISFM...keywords=isfm23 EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 11, 2018 |
# ? Feb 11, 2018 02:34 |
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You can also get an amazingly anachronistic device known as a Bluetooth cassette adapter, then you just need to plug it in and charge it occasionally. No wiring mods needed. I got one for my MJ and then realized the drat tape deck is broken. Whoops.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 03:24 |
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Hmmm, could you then stick that in a tape to 8-track adapter?
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 03:27 |
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You're very clever young man but it's adapters right the way down
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 03:28 |
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kastein posted:You can also get an amazingly anachronistic device known as a Bluetooth cassette adapter, then you just need to plug it in and charge it occasionally. No wiring mods needed. Cut the wires from the mechanical part of the tape deck itself, and solder in a Chinese Bluetooth A2DP chip like a $2 XS3868. The tape deck should feed into the pre-amp side of the radio anyway and you're good to go. You'd have to wire the tape sense wire to a switch of some kind. Admittedly, I haven't done this on my own radio yet because I just now reassembled it and got it to work in the target car before the snow hit. I'm thinking I might need some more isolation but it should work... ish. Similar project: https://web.archive.org/web/20120627050409/http://roofus.me/post/14200436365/tape-deck-a2dp-conversion Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Feb 11, 2018 |
# ? Feb 11, 2018 03:33 |
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Our tape adapter sound like rear end in this thing (but not in our other 1990 JDM car's tape deck ), the mechanical action of a tape deck from 1990 whirring away adds a lot of noise and hiss to the audio and while I do like the aesthetics a whole lot the functionality not so much. The tape heads in the unit are either dirty or it's just a circa just-after-the-80s tape deck with all the problems that entails. I'd also like to keep those cool switches and knobs up top functional but we all know that it isn't going to happen. A double-din flat touchscreen head-unit fits perfectly there and won't look nearly as out of place as the standard din units not called 'Continental', with the benefit of it being able to be turned off. I'll keep the deck though for sure, can always undo the android auto install. I wonder if the Crown can use other Toyota harnesses from that era, I ordered a US-market harness for a 1987-1997 Honda off Amazon and it fits the 1990 Acty perfectly. Probably special because it's a Crown though. OR I can buy some of these, record my music onto them and take advantage of the 'metal' function in the tape deck!
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 04:02 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Cut the wires from the mechanical part of the tape deck itself, and solder in a Chinese Bluetooth A2DP chip like a $2 XS3868. The tape deck should feed into the pre-amp side of the radio anyway and you're good to go. I have a couple of those modules sitting here for when I get tired of screwing with the stupid tape deck. His audio connections are kinda ghetto but work, I'd probably do it with op amps and stuff instead, but hey if it works...
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 04:41 |
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kastein posted:I have a couple of those modules sitting here for when I get tired of screwing with the stupid tape deck. His audio connections are kinda ghetto but work, I'd probably do it with op amps and stuff instead, but hey if it works... Do it.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 04:58 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Cut the wires from the mechanical part of the tape deck itself, and solder in a Chinese Bluetooth A2DP chip like a $2 XS3868. The tape deck should feed into the pre-amp side of the radio anyway and you're good to go. The last car radio I wanted an AUX input for I tapped directly into the audio amp. They almost always have an off the shelf drop-in radio demodulator card, these are usually labeled quite well. The few I've taken apart with such a design actually had the pinouts silkscreened on. From there I cut the traces on the audio R and audio L lines and wired in a DPDT switch, common to the audio amp, one side to the radio, one side to the AUX in jack, you could put this to your bluetooth adapter. I find this method better than dicking with the tape player. Often there's some software filter on the output of the tape player that makes an AUX input sound weird, it also won't work unless it "thinks" you have a tape inserted blah blah blah. If you piggyback off the radio side of things, you're going into an input designed for what you're doing, and you don't have to deal with fooling the thing into thinking it has a tape. You just tell it to play the radio and hit your switch. I had a Subaru that had a nasty ground loop hum I never found, but I fixed it with audio isolation transformers, you can get these for a couple bucks online. Not a big deal.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 15:58 |
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Too bad Japan uses a weird FM band that would be interesting to make a working adapter for. I bet someone makes a downconverter to do the 76-90MHz it uses. I really wouldn't dare doing it without decent shielding, since that is right up against commercial HF and amateur stuff, and both would not appreciate you blasting in the Initial D soundtrack into their bands, not that you could hear it as the modulation is almost 20x for FM broadcast versus commercial band communications FM. At that point, get a radio for that from a UK (right band but even tuning steps) or African (the same as US?) market and gut it.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 18:52 |
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DJ Commie posted:both would not appreciate you blasting in the Initial D soundtrack into their bands, I would.
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 18:55 |
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DJ Commie posted:I bet someone makes a downconverter to do the 76-90MHz it uses. They do. Google "FM band expander," but I think you lose some stations on the extents still. You can also bodge the poo poo out of the board itself, because a lot of the radios were designed to work in North America and need a few little tweaks to change them. From NZ, but the FM standard is the same as ours, I think: https://jeremy.geek.nz/2010/07/02/a-guide-to-hacking-japanese-car-radios/ Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Feb 11, 2018 |
# ? Feb 11, 2018 19:52 |
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Band expanders tend to mess with reception quality
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# ? Feb 11, 2018 20:51 |
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Put in a CD changer Bluetooth adapter that I got for like 30 bucks. Best investment in a long time. Going from silence/bad radio stations to having Spotify starting on my phone by just pushing "next track" on the steering wheel is a godsend. I have missed having my own music. Added bonus is that I now can take phone calls, so I don't have to stop and call up to ask if it was important. Only weird thing is that some songs, mainly downloaded from YouTube, mess with the satellite speakers to give off a buzz at high treble, not dependent on volume in the way that the buzz is there at any volume but still louder/quieter depending on volume. Encoding of the songs that messing it up, maybe?
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# ? Feb 12, 2018 08:52 |
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Powershift posted:Hmmm, could you then stick that in a tape to 8-track adapter? kastein posted:You're very clever young man but it's adapters right the way down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppo3IgHWDzA
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# ? Feb 12, 2018 09:17 |
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I tried to narrow down the source of the "Saab stereo cuts in and out randomly plus occasional weird popping noises". Step one: stab stereo Connections on the back looked fine, no frayed wiring. Moving on to what I really suspected the issue was: Amp1 This amplifier is under the left side front seat and is apparently the source of nearly all 2nd gen Saab 9-3 stereo woes. Turns out it's very prone to corrosion: This car has spent it's whole life in NC, so this is just from occasional dampness. What about replacing everything with aftermarket? Great idea, except the the signal for the speakers is carried on fiber option, so I'd have to also rewire everything. Which I don't feel like doing. According to the internets, pulling the fiber optic from the amp connector and inserting a loopback fixes these issues and maintains functionality. I think I might lose the rear speakers, but those barely work now, so not out anything. And for $10 for the loopback vs. $150 for a used Amp1, not going to complain.
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# ? Feb 12, 2018 15:38 |
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Got my bench illuminated as gently caress. Yeah I'm a slob. Working on storage solutions. but first, let's wing this bastard back together. Seems to keep the fuel in the right places now, but the extra pressure of Actually Functioning Properly (as well as being r&r'd a bunch during diagnosis, I'm sure) ruptured one of the signal pressure lines to the warm-up regulator. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Feb 12, 2018 |
# ? Feb 12, 2018 17:54 |
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I decided to take a $17 chance on THIS bluetooth cassette adapter thing because thinking about it and going over what you guys suggested it would be best to just keep the stock stereo there and add an aux input of some kind. Whatever touchscreen headunit I install is going to age faster than the rest of the car so why not just keep the phone outside the headunit and swap as needed with an AUX cable? I don't plan on doing any bluetooth calling or whatever so I don't need that aspect either. First though I'll see if this bluetooth tape adapter thing works well, actual tapes sound great in the stereo, my limited edition Minus the Bear tape does anyway
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# ? Feb 13, 2018 05:40 |
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This thread shows two tags in my bookmarks page.
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# ? Feb 13, 2018 06:19 |
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The dummy antenna on the top of the '05 Saab 9-3 got cracked open, so I replaced that with an aftermarket one. Sorry, no pictures, which is for the best, there was a fair amount of strong arming and minor roof panel damage to get the original off. The replacement was originally help in place my 3M foam tape....so a touch sketchy. I lined the edges with Super Black weather stripping adhesive, then made two separate passes to ensure it was fully adhered and watertight. Also installed a fiber optic loop back to attempt to remedy the issue with the stereo cutting in and out as well as random pops and crackles, caused by this situation with Amp1: Initial indications are that it's done the trick. Next things to fix: cruise control and possibly the passenger seat weight sensor.
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 01:53 |
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I washed and waxed my car yesterday. I was thinking it was just looking old and then bam. A coat of wax and out looks great again. I really need to get a rotary buffer and some pads.
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 05:41 |
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I spy a first-gen RX-7 base-model steering wheel. Stereo chat: my Pioneer mechless unit in the Crown Vic has something similar to line noise while on the "iPod" input, but it doesn't change with volume or engine speed, and it'll do it even if there's nothing plugged into the input (disclaimer - I'm using an extension cable with a panel mounted socket, and have not yet disconnected that since it's behind the radio.) The sound is not present in the radio. I don't recall if it's there for Bluetooth. I think it's just a defect in the radio, and should have sent it in for warranty. It's quiet enough that it's not usually annoying, but sometimes. My solution will likely be to replace the head unit with a double-DIN touchscreen, since I hat the backup cam being on the little display of my rear-view mirror dashcam. Can't see it in full daylight, especially with sunglasses on. nadmonk posted:The dummy antenna on the top of the '05 Saab 9-3 got cracked open, so I replaced that with an aftermarket one. Sorry, no pictures, which is for the best, there was a fair amount of strong arming and minor roof panel damage to get the original off. quote:Also installed a fiber optic loop back to attempt to remedy the issue with the stereo cutting in and out as well as random pops and crackles, caused by this situation with Amp1: Could you have cracked it open, cleaned up the rust, and resoldered connections to fix it? Should work, as long as actual components aren't damaged.
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 18:09 |
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Darchangel posted:I spy a first-gen RX-7 base-model steering wheel. Does it happen without the engine running at all, just with the key in ACC? I guess it's possible you have the audio cable behind the dash around some signal wire that's coupling noise in, could be worth poking around with your setup there. If you get a touch screen unit, make sure you get a loving volume knob. The ones that have up/down buttons or touch screen volume control are absolutely godawful miserable to use. I'm honestly not a touch screen fan in the first place, but at least a volume knob means you can turn the volume down without taking your eyes off the road to dick around with the radio.
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 19:12 |
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Darchangel posted:I spy a first-gen RX-7 base-model steering wheel. From what I've seen on the Saab forums, that is possible, but it's pretty dependent on which part decided to corrode itself out. From what I saw, it looked like it might have been in the fiber optic transceiver module itself, which helpfully is almost entirely encased behind a thin metal box staked down to the board. The work required would be pretty delicate and I don't have quite enough faith in my soldiering abilities to tackle that. Pretty much everyone went the loopback option to fix the issues they hit. I put in a fiber optic loopback last night and it solved the stereo problems and improved sound quality in the rear speaker. The 3M foam definitely felt strong enough to hold it without worries. A secondary concern I had was that the part was a little sketchy as far as sealing out water. I'm sure the 3M tape would have been fine on it's own, but I feel better with the Super Black on there also
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 19:57 |
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This Bluetooth tape adapter I ordered doesn't work well for me. It could be the tape itself or our phones but it's all tinny and seems to be missing the bottom half of the audio. You can adjust things to get it there but then it's just super quiet. Sounds the same in the Acty so it's tape player independent. Oh well, on to figuring out how to hijack the FM audio signal!
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 22:08 |
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# ? Jun 13, 2024 03:59 |
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nadmonk posted:From what I've seen on the Saab forums, that is possible, but it's pretty dependent on which part decided to corrode itself out. From what I saw, it looked like it might have been in the fiber optic transceiver module itself, which helpfully is almost entirely encased behind a thin metal box staked down to the board. The work required would be pretty delicate and I don't have quite enough faith in my soldiering abilities to tackle that. Pretty much everyone went the loopback option to fix the issues they hit. Well, it's either hosed and you didn't do anything, or it's still hosed because you tried something and learned a lesson, or it's working because you tried something and learned a lesson. Trying something, even if you're going to gently caress it up, seems like the best thing to do here
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# ? Feb 14, 2018 22:09 |