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To be honest, after buying from Crutchfield once, if it was a first-time install on a car I'd owned (as in it had the factory radio), I'd buy from them again - simply because they heavily discount the adapters, dash kits, etc. If I already have everything I need (i.e. replacing an already aftermarket stereo), I'd be hitting Amazon or SonicElectronix. I'd keep the chimes too, personally. Stock stereo sends it through the front left speaker. I think the trend for the adapters is to run them through a small speaker in the adapter, but they usually have adjustable volume. My car is a weird one - it uses the same stereo your Malibu uses, but doesn't run any chimes or retained accessory power via the stereo (yet the other cars on the same platform did just that - I have the Saturn Ion, which is on the same platform as the Cobalt, G5, and HHR). GM was too lazy to move all of that on a single-generation car I guess. My choices were the super basic adapter, or one that retained OnStar. OnStar is too expensive for me to bother with on such an old (2006) car.
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Dec 24, 2017 12:55
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Looks like the Sony X100 is the only reasonably priced unit that will give me Android Auto. And none of the 3 units on crutchfield can play CDs. 😞
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Dec 25, 2017 11:50
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:To be honest, after buying from Crutchfield once, if it was a first-time install on a car I'd owned (as in it had the factory radio), I'd buy from them again - simply because they heavily discount the adapters, dash kits, etc. If I already have everything I need (i.e. replacing an already aftermarket stereo), I'd be hitting Amazon or SonicElectronix. Good call, as once a car hits a certain age they won't let you sign up for On-Star any more, and I believe it was 10 years when it happened to my grandparents 1999 Buick.
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Dec 26, 2017 18:49
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Oddhair posted:Good call, as once a car hits a certain age they won't let you sign up for On-Star any more, and I believe it was 10 years when it happened to my grandparents 1999 Buick. That was more likely due to that Buick having an analog cell radio that won't work anymore. Same thing happened to my mom's 02 Trailblazer - not that she ever used OnStar, but around that same time period she received a notice that it would no longer function.
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Dec 26, 2017 19:11
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Yeah, they're still more than happy to take your money, so long as the hardware in the car is still capable of communicating with them. Mine is one of the earlier digital versions, it'll still be supported until Verizon shuts down their 3G network (which they're slowly doing). It just lacks a lot of the bells and whistles of the newer versions (no smartphone support, for example). Newer versions are on AT&T's LTE network, IIRC. One real issue, though, is the OnStar module has a battery in it - it's intended to keep the radio and OnStar system powered in the event of a crash that disables the car's electrical system, for long enough for them to get the crash data (recorded by the airbag computer, I believe - GM has had EDRs in the airbag modules since the 90s), GPS location, and notify you that they're sending help. On older models, it's not rechargeable (newer ones moved to a Li-Ion battery). Disconnecting the car battery with the ignition switch in the run position will trigger the system to run off of the backup battery until it's depleted as well, and I don't know if there's a way to ever reset the module to work off of car power again. That battery does wear out eventually. Newer versions have a replaceable battery, older ones had it soldered. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Dec 26, 2017 |
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Dec 26, 2017 22:59
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My new JBL Car Stereo has a parking break sensor that apparently should be run all the way across the driver's console to a wire in some random harness near the driver's wheel well. Can I just wire it to ground or will that cause issues?
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Jan 9, 2018 01:03
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I have a 2015 is250 w/o the premium audio system. It is really pretty good stock but I am used to having a 10 inch dual voice coil sub with aftermarket stuff. Any ideas of how to improve upon the existing system without loving up the resell value? I imagine when I sell it the buyer will want the stock system. I can't change the head unit as it is integral with the nav etc. There was an option for the original owner to get an 800ish watt "Mark Levinson Premium Surround Sound Audio" system but they essentially got every option except that. I suppose that system is retrofittable but serious money as I expect the entire interior needs to be removed. Also, how do I stop the goddamn license plate rattle for good? Two hole mount so it is going to jiggle no matter what - I've tried putting some of the VHB velcro on but it isn't enough.
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Jan 9, 2018 01:23
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:My new JBL Car Stereo has a parking break sensor that apparently should be run all the way across the driver's console to a wire in some random harness near the driver's wheel well. Can I just wire it to ground or will that cause issues? What color is your car? The parking brake sensor is generally just so it knows when you're not allowed to watch movies on the screen. In a lot of cases you can bypass it (check the you of tubes). If you don't have it hooked up it'll probably just break that feature, which probably doesn't matter much because you don't watch movies in your car, right?
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Jan 9, 2018 02:11
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no pubes yet sorry posted:I have a 2015 is250 w/o the premium audio system. It is really pretty good stock but I am used to having a 10 inch dual voice coil sub with aftermarket stuff. Easiest general way is to patch a subwoofer in to line level on one of the rear speakers. You could probably even fashion up a y-cable so you don't even have to install a tap. You'll probably still need to run a power wire but there's almost always a path from engine bay in to the car that will be removable. Another thing to check is to see if your stereo happens to have any pre-outs that aren't being used; it may be that they exist but just aren't used because you don't have the "expensive" set-up.
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Jan 9, 2018 02:14
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:My new JBL Car Stereo has a parking break sensor that apparently should be run all the way across the driver's console to a wire in some random harness near the driver's wheel well. Can I just wire it to ground or will that cause issues? MikeyTsi posted:If you don't have it hooked up it'll probably just break that feature, which probably doesn't matter much because you don't watch movies in your car, right?
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Jan 11, 2018 16:19
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MikeyTsi posted:What color is your car? My Pioneer wont let me adjust, or enable, dimmer if i dont have a barking break censer wire installed.
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Jan 11, 2018 17:36
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Sormus posted:My Pioneer wont let me adjust, or enable, dimmer if i dont have a barking break censer wire installed. Like I said, check for a bypass. I have a Pioneer myself (AVIC Z130BT), that I've bypassed the parking brake check on. I've loaded firmware and CAN-MAPS updates on it like 4 times. Even verified it plays movies once, but then never did it again because I don't ever need to actually watch movies in my car. Here's an enthusiast site for Pioneer stuff, it's got a lot of information. https://avic411.com/
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Jan 12, 2018 23:48
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I have the wire installed now, the post was more along the lines "It also disables lots of other completely unrelated stuff, because they can."
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Jan 13, 2018 00:49
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MonkeyFit posted:Looks like the Sony X100 is the only reasonably priced unit that will give me Android Auto. And none of the 3 units on crutchfield can play CDs. 😞 I love me XAV-AX100 and have it 95% installed. I need the ae64 whatever dude to answer my emails
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Jan 26, 2018 17:04
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Wasabi the J posted:I love me XAV-AX100 and have it 95% installed. Had a question about these: the USB on the back seems annoying. I'm assuming one can run a long extension cable somewhere?
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Jan 26, 2018 17:56
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Uthor posted:Had a question about these: the USB on the back seems annoying. I'm assuming one can run a long extension cable somewhere? https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+car+port+mount&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1
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Jan 26, 2018 21:58
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I don't know the first thing about car audio, I want to put a cheap head unit in my beater 02' Dakota. Is there anything special I need to just plug a cheapo radio in? It's already got some sort of aftermarket faceplate on the dash and a single 22 pin connector. I was hoping I could just buy something dirt cheap and toss it in without having to fuss with it much.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:06
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Uthor posted:Had a question about these: the USB on the back seems annoying. I'm assuming one can run a long extension cable somewhere? Yup. The only negative remark I can give it is that is completely ridiculous not to have an auxiliary TRS jack input in TYOOL 2017, and I really wish the screen was a bit better; but it has inputs for USB, backup cameras from any country and orientation (mirrored or non and refresh rate can be selected from the head unit), and allows custom steering wheel controls. It's nearly perfect for an entry level Android Auto head unit.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:53
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MikeyTsi posted:https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+car+port+mount&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1 Honestly, I'd just run a cable to the glove box and let it dangle loose. Or run it with the Android Auto connection to my arm rest and let it dangle loose in there. But those are cool. Wasabi the J posted:Yup. The only negative remark I can give it is that is completely ridiculous not to have an auxiliary TRS jack input in TYOOL 2017, and I really wish the screen was a bit better; but it has inputs for USB, backup cameras from any country and orientation (mirrored or non and refresh rate can be selected from the head unit), and allows custom steering wheel controls. What's wrong with the screen? Low resolution I can deal with (currently using a head unit from ~09 VW), lag would maybe make my crazy (though, again ~09 VW head unit).
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Jan 26, 2018 23:01
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Uthor posted:Honestly, I'd just run a cable to the glove box and let it dangle loose. Or run it with the Android Auto connection to my arm rest and let it dangle loose in there. Yeah, those are valid options, and what I usually do. But some people want an actual mount to plug in to. The main thing is that if you have the plug on the front it's taking up space that could be used for other things, like screen size or navigation buttons.
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Jan 26, 2018 23:26
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Uthor posted:Honestly, I'd just run a cable to the glove box and let it dangle loose. Or run it with the Android Auto connection to my arm rest and let it dangle loose in there. Nothing really, it's usable in Las Vegas sunlight. I'm just a screen snob and hate capacitive and non OLED screens. No lag, just not really designed for touch, just tapping; that being said there's not a ton of reason to go dragging stuff around by touch, anyway. Android Auto works flawlessly.
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Jan 27, 2018 09:14
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Cool. I think I talked myself into getting that for my annual bday/tax rebate gift (assuming I didn't gently caress myself with the 401(k) to IRA transfer hahaha oh God). It'd be nice to have Bluetooth calling for once, especially since I have an actual commute to work for the first time in years.
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Jan 27, 2018 10:25
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So I bought a fox acoustics single 12 inch ported box for under the rear seat of my Ram. One of the recommended subs for this box is the sundown audio sa 12s. The manufacturer and a few reviews say that the depth fits fine, but I was wondering if anyone had a similar setup if the top of the speaker hits the underside of the seat when it's folded down?
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Feb 9, 2018 13:19
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I just got a JVC Android Auto unit for my 2011 Chevy Cruze. Got everything wired up alright, but how in the unholy gently caress are you supposed to fit all that poo poo back in behind the head unit??
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Feb 16, 2018 05:04
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Very carefully. I just had the same struggle with a Kenwood android auto unit in a 2018 Forester. So many wires.
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Feb 16, 2018 15:42
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Does anyone have any strong opinions on active subwoofers? I'm thinking of lazy install of something either under the driver's seat or in the trunk.
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Feb 16, 2018 16:24
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Opinions on db drive? I did no research whatsoever when I first upgraded my system, and I have a db drive amp and had a db subwoofer. I have since destroyed the subwoofer probably because I'm an idiot. I'm still not entirely sure what happened. I have banned myself from purchasing anything else until I know what the hell I'm doing. This stuff seems like learning a new language and I cannot seem to find anything that helps me understand it. I'm not sure if there is just a steep learning curve or if my brain is not capable of understanding. Any suggested readings or videos for dumbasses to learn car audio? Goobish fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Feb 16, 2018 |
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Feb 16, 2018 20:40
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Goobish posted:Opinions on db drive? I did no research whatsoever when I first upgraded my system, and I have a db drive amp and had a db subwoofer. I have since destroyed the subwoofer probably because I'm an idiot. I'm still not entirely sure what happened. I have banned myself from purchasing anything else until I know what the hell I'm doing. Well, one of the first google hits I got was them for sale at Walmart, so it's probably not the best gear on the planet. The fundamentals are the same regardless, run power wire of sufficient gauge to match the output, fuse near the battery (within a foot), fuse the other end near the amp. Make sure you're using a good ground for the amp (I usually connect it to a seat belt or seat bracket since they have nice big bolts and are basically always a good ground point). Set crossovers to match output. Set your gain levels all the way down. Turn on stereo. Put stereo to volume where you either get distortion, you max out the volume. If distortion, back off until distortion ceases. Turn up gain until you get distortion again, then back off until it ceases. Congratulations, you've just tuned an amplifier/speaker setup.
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Feb 17, 2018 01:23
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Sormus posted:Does anyone have any strong opinions on active subwoofers? I'm thinking of lazy install of something either under the driver's seat or in the trunk. Planet Audio P8UAW 8 inch 800-watt Amplified Subwoofer System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKGWCGA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf It’s not going to win an SPL competition, but it puts out tons of bass, sounds good, and it’s worked really well. Has lots of adjustments if your head unit doesn’t handle it. Took about 30 minutes to install, piece of cake.
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Feb 19, 2018 18:28
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Anyone ever have a head unit delay start up? My Pioneer AVH4200NEX does this on random intervals for random durations of time. Never for more than a minute after the car has started, however. It has never also stayed off which leads me to believe its the head unit and not the wiring harness.
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Feb 23, 2018 14:08
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It's a 'smart' head unit so is full of clever software bullshit. Firmware upgrade available for it? Might need prodding that way.
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Feb 23, 2018 14:37
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I have two 12" 700w 4ohm dvc subs. What size/how many channels Amp should I be looking to run, and how should I wire the subs (in sequence or parallel)? I don't know why a different ohm level might be preferable and I want to make the most of what I've got.
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Feb 23, 2018 22:39
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I believe the rule of thumb is to get an oversized amp, not oversized speakers. 1500W should do it. For wiring. Use this: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6Y0SwdlqEYH/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html
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Feb 23, 2018 22:50
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Is each voice coil 4 ohms, or is that combined? (I'm suspecting each is 4 ohms, so you can wire each sub as either 8 or 2 ohms if you're combining the voice coils into 1 set of wires). I'd probably run each sub in parallel across the coils (so 2 ohms), then wire them in series between each other, which would present a 4 ohm load to the amp. Get a beefy monoblock amp, or a not quite as beefy 2 channel amp that's 2 ohm stable when bridged (a lot of cheaper amps are only 2 ohm stable when not bridged... remember bridging basically cuts the resistance seen by the amp in half, so 2 ohms when bridged looks like 1 ohm to the amp). (darchangel, please correct me if I'm wrong.. it's been a long time since I thought about a lot of this stuff)
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Feb 24, 2018 10:42
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I have an 08 Mazda 3. I’ve been happy enough with my stock HU and aux input from my iPhone. That is, until I upgraded from my old iPhone to an 8 with no 3.5mm jack. Now I’m looking for a decent BT -> Aux converter. I have a few concerns that I’m trying to address: Should turn on and off with my car so nothing battery powered Would be nice if it either didn’t have a mic or had an external mic plug since I’ll be shoving this into my arm rest console. Needs to auto connect to my phone without needing to dig it out and push buttons. I’m sure I’m not the first person with this issue so I’m just looking to see if anyone has a similar setup. I’m not looking to invest any money into a HU since the only ones I’ve found which are stock looking are buggy (from past experience), and honestly it’s a ten year old car so I’ll probably be upgrading soon anyway. If there isn’t a good option I’ll likely just end up finding some kind of lightning breakout cable that does both charging and audio.
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Feb 24, 2018 21:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Is each voice coil 4 ohms, or is that combined? (I'm suspecting each is 4 ohms, so you can wire each sub as either 8 or 2 ohms if you're combining the voice coils into 1 set of wires). A 2ohm load by parallel wiring 2x 4ohm drivers is just seen by the amp as 2ohm. It's only when drivers are put into something like a folded horn sub can they be seen by an amp as anything other than how they're wired due to the cabinet adding mechanical resistance to the whole assembly. It's rare anyone puts folded horn cabs in cars (though SPL drag cars are missing a trick by not doing so, they go loud with gently caress all power). If an amp is 4ohm per side, bridging it will let it take a 2ohm load. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Feb 24, 2018 |
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Feb 24, 2018 22:23
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Since everyone kind of glossed over the link I sent.
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Feb 24, 2018 22:34
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Ah, didn't spot the dual voice coil thing as I was just replying to STR. You can wire them up as shown in your image for a 4ohm load or you could series parallel them like so for a 2ohm load which is easier for a car amp.
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Feb 24, 2018 23:24
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Martytoof posted:I have an 08 Mazda 3. I’ve been happy enough with my stock HU and aux input from my iPhone. That is, until I upgraded from my old iPhone to an 8 with no 3.5mm jack. Now I’m looking for a decent BT -> Aux converter. There's tonnes on the market that run off microusb. Before I upgraded the head unit, I had a little tp link one running into my aux in, powered by a wired in 12v > USB cable, although if memory serves I had to gently caress around with earthing to keep noise down. Test it with the car running before you button everything up.
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Feb 25, 2018 00:12
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Martytoof posted:I have an 08 Mazda 3. I’ve been happy enough with my stock HU and aux input from my iPhone. That is, until I upgraded from my old iPhone to an 8 with no 3.5mm jack. Now I’m looking for a decent BT -> Aux converter. Don't the new iPhones come with a Lightning to 3.5mm adapter in the box? I think they're like $7 to replace. As for bluetooth, I put one of the Amazon Basics ones in my dad's truck. It's intended to be run from a wall outlet, but the adapter is 12V so I thought I'd take a chance in snipping the cord off the adapter and wiring it to the truck directly (since auto "12V" is actually like 14.5V". That has been fine so far, although I think it has a super cheap 3.5mm jack in it because sometimes the cable needs to be wiggled to keep one side from cutting out. But, judging by its reviews, this is probably not a common complaint. Oh, and yes it will connect automatically if the phone's bluetooth is on, and I wired it to a switch so it wouldn't grab the phone's audio when the stereo was off. You could probably tap into the amp turn on wire if you wanted to automate this, though.
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Feb 25, 2018 02:33
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