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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Typically the tube is to extend a hole above the surface of the ground. kid sinister posted:Sonotube is a big cardboard tube for extending concrete above ground. Word..... So would it be shoved all the way to the bottom and then left there, with (whatever desired length) sticking out of the ground? Or if I wanted say, 2 feet of stick up, I shove it in far enough that it'll stay steady and reasonably level? Like I mean I wouldn't use a 3 foot piece of tube if I wanted to have the top of the post 2 feet above ground, I'd use minimum of four? Or five feet?
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Feb 18, 2018 21:25
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wesleywillis posted:Word..... So would it be shoved all the way to the bottom and then left there, with (whatever desired length) sticking out of the ground? Or if I wanted say, 2 feet of stick up, I shove it in far enough that it'll stay steady and reasonably level? Like I mean I wouldn't use a 3 foot piece of tube if I wanted to have the top of the post 2 feet above ground, I'd use minimum of four? Or five feet? The answer is kind of...it depends. The sonotube lets you form up a strong column of concrete that extends up from whatever your underground footing surface is up to the ground level, where you can tie it into your fencepost or deck post or whatever. The footing you need depends on what you are doing. Fence? Probably no footing other then the diameter of the tube, put the tube down past whatever your local frostline is/your local building code says. If you're building a deck, you have to calculate the load that the deck post is responsible for, then make a big enough footing at the bottom to distribute that many pounds over many square inches. Building code tells you max PSI (pounds per square inch) depending on what type of soil you're building on top of. You can use something like http://www.bigfootsystems.com/include/photos.htm (ignore the janky website and just look at the pictures) for a premade footer diameter that you can pour all at once with your sonotube. Other options include framing out a small concrete pad, pouring that, then using rebar to tie in the vertical column, or constructing a framing + tube monstrosity that you can fill all at once. I wouldn't recommend bringing a sonotube two feet above ground, unless you're doing big stuff like commercial light poles or something else specialized. Do you have something you're thinking about or just curious about the tubes?
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Feb 18, 2018 21:47
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TacoHavoc posted:The answer is kind of...it depends. Curiosity at the moment. I've always been interested in this sort of thing. But my big dream is to build a cottage/cabin/shack of some sort. Nothing huge, maybe like 1 floor 20'x24'. Fake edit: Holy gently caress those bigfoot motherfuckers look dope!
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Feb 18, 2018 22:05
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mr.belowaverage posted:The vertical jambs are both bowed in in the centre, and the head jamb is almost half an inch lower on the left. Looking at those photos: you have a masonry wall with sufficient header (the pair of lumber bits at the top) but no way do you have sufficient lumber with just one jamb stud on each side to translate the wall load to the ground. One stud on each side is not nearly enough support, which is why the jamb studs are bowing and, consequently, the header's not square any more. You will need to jack up the opening, remove the framing that's there, widen the opening, and put at least two studs per side in there; possibly 4x4 post, or steel supports tied to the masonry wall. This is not a simple job for the inexperienced; jacking up the door opening can crack the wall above and/or on either or both sides of the opening if not done with care. You can think about ways to level the header once that structural defect is resolved - there may be enough lumber there to shave off a half-inch.
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Feb 19, 2018 02:14
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PainterofCrap posted:jackin it Hmm. If this was conventional timber framing or a newer house, I'd agree, but this masonry/jamb system is 128 years old with only slight deflection. I'm not sure that degree of restructuring is necessary in this case. I do know my way around structural repair and framing, but I am not a structural engineer so I could still be underestimating this problem. Taking another run at it today, the door itself may have a slight warp which is complicating things. I believe it will straighten in time once I have it properly installed. I'm going to remove it and take some better pictures tomorrow with a long level or straightedge to see if anyone can provide more feedback or advice.
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Feb 19, 2018 03:53
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mr.belowaverage posted:Hmm. If this was conventional timber framing or a newer house, I'd agree, but this masonry/jamb system is 128 years old with only slight deflection. I'm not sure that degree of restructuring is necessary in this case. I do know my way around structural repair and framing, but I am not a structural engineer so I could still be underestimating this problem. In the picture of the left side, is the masonry missing or cracked away under the header extension? It looks like it, and if so the weight that the header is bearing is not being distributed as intended, causing the trimmer studs to bow.
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Feb 19, 2018 04:47
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angryrobots posted:In the picture of the left side, is the masonry missing or cracked away under the header extension? It looks like it, and if so the weight that the header is bearing is not being distributed as intended, causing the trimmer studs to bow. I cheated. I had to barricade the door when I first put it in to hold it, and used pictures of the opposite door across to house to illustrate the construction. Here are pictures of the actual frame and door in question:  Yes, this frame is ugly and rough and needs restoration.      Head jamb gap at latch side; this is good, door is contacting threshold right now. It's the hinge side that's too tight. Out of level head jamb Header and head jamb under some inner brick wythe settling. This is a structural double-brick masonry wall. Most of the load is carried by the brick in this system, not the header. Exterior wythe is unsettled and solid.  Proposed fix:  I think if I jack the header from beneath just a small amount, and insert some solid wood shim between it and the side jamb/jack stud it should level out. Needs maybe max 1/2" lift.Cracks in the brickwork from settling should absorb the movement. Or crack more and start falling out. Then I guess it's mason and steel lintel time!
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Feb 19, 2018 18:25
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mr.belowaverage posted:
The masonry is structural yes, but the purpose of the header is to distribute the load that would go into the gaping opening of the door, onto the brick on either side. It appears that the contact area of the header (on both sides but especially the left) has suffered cracking and missing masonry which someone, or many someones have attempted to shim up and mortar over the top of. I'm not a mason, but I would guess that the header was never big enough, and/or improperly tied into or supported by the masonry. (Edit- possibly the opening was enlarged at a later date to accommodate a taller door). If I understand your attempted fix diagram correctly, you intend to shim between the header and the trimmer board which is not intended to support point load in that manner, and will bow even more than it is already. It may be possible to properly support the existing header and tie it into the brick wall permanently, but I don't think that's a project to do based on internet advice (not from me anyhow). I would have someone look at that before it turns into a bigger problem. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Feb 19, 2018 |
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Feb 19, 2018 23:48
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mr.belowaverage posted:Hmm. If this was conventional timber framing or a newer house, I'd agree, but this masonry/jamb system is 128 years old with only slight deflection. I'm not sure that degree of restructuring is necessary in this case. I do know my way around structural repair and framing, but I am not a structural engineer so I could still be underestimating this problem That timber is supporting that opening. it's even more critical for a heavy-weight build such as your masonry wall than if it were wood-framed, which is far, far less dead-weight. The only way that opening would be self-supporting would be if there were a keyed archway built above it. The studs are bowing because of ongoing settlement. That's also causing the cracks you're seeing in the masonry. It's slow & inexorable...but only up to a point. The bowing is your fair warning.
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Feb 20, 2018 01:36
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Any thoughts on what that U shaped pipe might be for? Our finished basement has a drop ceiling and today, the ceiling tile directly under it had gotten soggy enough that it just crumbled when I tried to take it down for drying. There's an upstairs bathroom (toilet, sink, shower) in the same area as the pipe, but if it's a leak from that bathroom, the tile would constantly be soggy which it isn't. I only remember 1 other time this happened, about 4-5 months ago when I believe there was some intense rain. There was only 0.13" rain this past weekend, but the week before saw 1.22" and the week before that saw 2.47", so it may just have been accumulating without me noticing. Another theory relates to an exhaust chimney that began leaking water during rainstorms a couple years ago. The cap on the chimney had rusted through, leaving a partially uncovered hole for rainwater to come down. This appears to be a normal water pipe though since it appears to connect to smaller brass piping above the U. I also wonder if it might have to do with condensation since it has suddenly gotten warmer in the past few days. Right now a drop of water is falling once every 20 seconds. FYI we do have natural gas heating.  
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 05:11
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Josh Lyman posted:Any thoughts on what that U shaped pipe might be for? Our finished basement has a drop ceiling and today, the ceiling tile directly under it had gotten soggy enough that it just crumbled when I tried to take it down for drying. There's an upstairs bathroom (toilet, sink, shower) in the same area as the pipe, but if it's a leak from that bathroom, the tile would constantly be soggy which it isn't. I only remember 1 other time this happened, about 4-5 months ago when I believe there was some intense rain. There was only 0.13" rain this past weekend, but the week before saw 1.22" and the week before that saw 2.47", so it may just have been accumulating without me noticing. That would be the trap for your bathtub. You'll need to get a closer look and see what's leaking. Check that everything is tight and that there aren't any cracks. It might be that the cleanout cover for that trap needs to be replaced.
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Feb 20, 2018 07:14
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I just recently bought myself a wort chiller for making beer, and would like to brew a batch this weekend. Like most wort chillers, it connects via a 3/4" garden hose connector: I know there are little adapters that convert a house faucet to a hose connector, but my faucet is the kind that has the built in sprayer nozzle, kind of like this:  I noticed that the nozzle part screws into the hose that goes back down into the faucet...is that connector the same kind that a "normal" faucet has, so I can just get the same "faucet to hose" adapter? DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 15:05
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DrBouvenstein posted:I just recently bought myself a wort chiller for making beer, and would like to brew a batch this weekend. Like most wort chillers, it connects via a 3/4" garden hose connector: If you have a regular sink in your bathroom you might see if there is a water bed filling hose setup. There isn't going to be something easy to adapt that sink outlet. Otherwise you could see about adapting the valve into a multi outlet valve from the wall. That is much more work though, especially if it is copper.
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Feb 20, 2018 15:19
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H110Hawk posted:If you have a regular sink in your bathroom you might see if there is a water bed filling hose setup. There isn't going to be something easy to adapt that sink outlet. Otherwise you could see about adapting the valve into a multi outlet valve from the wall. That is much more work though, especially if it is copper. There are replacement aerators with garden hose threads available at most hardware stores. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 18:53
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DrBouvenstein posted:I just recently bought myself a wort chiller for making beer, and would like to brew a batch this weekend. Like most wort chillers, it connects via a 3/4" garden hose connector: Check your clothes washer cold supply line. Often these are terminated with a 3/4" NPT male fitting already. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 19:07
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kid sinister posted:There are replacement aerators with garden hose theeads available at most hardware stores. There you go. Magic. We always filled my water bed with a hose through the window.
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Feb 20, 2018 19:12
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H110Hawk posted:If you have a regular sink in your bathroom you might see if there is a water bed filling hose setup. Ahh, yes...if. I have some kind of "farm house" faucet or whatever in there. Looks like this:  The previous owner is the one who installed both of these...I actually hate the bathroom one, maybe this is the motivation I need to replace it with something more" standard" that can accept the aerator-to-3/4" hose adapter. I also plan to install a utility sink in the basement, but that's not a "do it this weekend" project, plus I'm not sure if I like the idea if hauling a couple gallons of nearly boiling wort down a flight of stairs.
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Feb 20, 2018 20:38
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DrBouvenstein posted:Ahh, yes...if. I have some kind of "farm house" faucet or whatever in there. Looks like this: Well shoot. Is your washer down there? If so, you might want to do what Shame Boner recommended. Better yet, use one of these so you don't have to unhook your washer every time you want to fill'er up.
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Feb 20, 2018 20:47
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DrBouvenstein posted:Ahh, yes...if. I have some kind of "farm house" faucet or whatever in there. Looks like this: FWIW, substitute a 8 lb bag of ice instead of a gallon of water (assuming you're dumping the wort into water). It'll all instantly melt, and you'll be left with something way closer to your target temperature.
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Feb 21, 2018 01:24
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angryrobots posted:It may be possible to properly support the existing header and tie it into the brick wall permanently, but I don't think that's a project to do based on internet advice PainterofCrap posted:That timber is supporting that opening. it's even more critical for a heavy-weight build such as your masonry wall than if it were wood-framed, which is far, far less dead-weight. The only way that opening would be self-supporting would be if there were a keyed archway built above it. Good points. Without a keyed arch or lintel, I know the side jambs aren't designed for that load. Maybe a simple angle iron notched into the brick and hugging the header will do. I have an architect working on other items in the house, maybe I can run this past him. Thanks for the thoughts.
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Feb 21, 2018 02:00
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Ye olde furnace is not firing. I decided to get up there and have a look see since this thread and previously watching my dad fix it gave me confidence and misguided hope it was the same problem as last time: a critter chewed a wire. Sadly that doesn't appear to be the case. Where I am now: Thermostat calls for heat, transformer clicks on inside the furnace, gives 115Vac to the inducer motor, 24Vac to the pressure sensor thingy next to it, but the motor does not turn. Eventually faults out to 3 blinks. "Pressure switch open, should be closed." I didn't see (but it's just as likely I'm blind) a start/run capacitor, and I think it's optional based on the wiring diagram? Old repair appears intact, no obvious critter chewings. No obviously loose wires, no scorch marks on the control board. Everything seems snug, though some insulation on the wires sounds a little crinkly. Is this a bad inducer motor? Is there a start capacitor I'm missing? Or where do I go from here? I took some pictures: What it is: "Tempstar" on the outside panel, inside plate says "International Comfort Products", Manufactured 2009.  Diag and wiring:   I noted on the inducer motor the capacitor says "some models" The guts:   You can see the prior repair here, the yellow wire nut. That goes to the molex connector and up to the white horizontal cylinder thingy behind the gas inlet valve (front and center, Blue and Yellow/Green wire) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 07:02
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kid sinister posted:That would be the trap for your bathtub. You'll need to get a closer look and see what's leaking. Check that everything is tight and that there aren't any cracks. It might be that the cleanout cover for that trap needs to be replaced. The dripping finally stopped overnight but it's not like that roommate stopped showering so I have no idea what's causing it.
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Feb 21, 2018 07:20
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devicenull posted:FWIW, substitute a 8 lb bag of ice instead of a gallon of water (assuming you're dumping the wort into water). It'll all instantly melt, and you'll be left with something way closer to your target temperature. I've heard that's a terrible idea because there's no way to know how "clean" the ice is. Looks like I'k stuck carrying a giant pot full of nearly boiling liquid down my stairs to the basement...blast. I'm assuming that actually doing my boil in the basement with a propane burner is a terrible idea? I have one already that I use (outside,) and I assume that the whole "propane tank inside" thing is a no-no?
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Feb 21, 2018 15:27
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DrBouvenstein posted:I've heard that's a terrible idea because there's no way to know how "clean" the ice is. Run a hose back up from the basement?
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Feb 21, 2018 16:03
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shovelbum posted:Run a hose back up from the basement? I mean, I'm not a fan of a hose being run all over the house, either. It'd be probably close to 50' worth to get from the laundry hookup to the kitchen sink OR bathroom sink/tub...but it might be the easiest option for now. Maybe one of those extendable hoses? I'm not sure if they're good for use as an actual, outdoor hose, but for one I can keep inside and not take up a lot of space or be annoying to drag around it might be good.
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Feb 21, 2018 16:57
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DrBouvenstein posted:I mean, I'm not a fan of a hose being run all over the house, either. It'd be probably close to 50' worth to get from the laundry hookup to the kitchen sink OR bathroom sink/tub...but it might be the easiest option for now. Those are REALLY BAD to use indoors because they hold pressure until they're empty, even with the water shut off, due to their elastic nature and shrink as you try to drain them. Learned that one the hard way breaking up clogs in a sewage machine with one of those things.
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Feb 21, 2018 17:00
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H110Hawk posted:Ye olde furnace is not firing. I decided to get up there and have a look see since this thread and previously watching my dad fix it gave me confidence and misguided hope it was the same problem as last time: a critter chewed a wire. Sadly that doesn't appear to be the case. Apologies if I missed this/you've already done it: Are you getting a trouble code, and did you replace the fuse? I had a similar problem with ours that I thought had to be wiring, it was the drat fuse.
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Feb 21, 2018 18:13
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NancyPants posted:Apologies if I missed this/you've already done it: Are you getting a trouble code, and did you replace the fuse? I had a similar problem with ours that I thought had to be wiring, it was the drat fuse. Oh good the one bit of info I thought "must make sure to say" - 3 blinks. "Pressure Switch Open, should be closed." Fuse is good. (Otherwise I hope I wouldn't be getting 115 + 24 VAC Hot->Ground.) Edit: Looking more closely at the picture of the control board, that resistor in the middle, right of the relay ("R4") looks a little toasty doesn't it?
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Feb 21, 2018 18:19
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Josh Lyman posted:I did some more examination and it does indeed run to a bathtub though in a different bathroom than I originally thought. How would a bad cleanout cover cause leaking though? From what I've googled, it seems like just an access cover so you can remove hair clogs and stuff with a drain snake. Like most traps there should always be water in the u-bend to prevent sewer gas from coming up through the drain. It looks as though the water is probably seeping out through the threads of the cleanout cover. If there's debris in the trap it's possible that something moved to block the leak last time the tub was used. If it were my house, I would remove the cleanout cover (keep a bucket handy) and inspect the threads for signs of corrosion. Based on that inspection I would either Teflon tape the threads before resecuring the cleanout cover or replace the entire trap. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 18:20
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What's the trap made out of? I had one where the walls got so thin (presumably due to rust/corrosion) that they eventually developed a small leak, which turned into a big one as soon as I applied the smallest bit of force to the trap. Basically I'm saying you should be prepared to replace the trap no matter what.
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Feb 21, 2018 18:28
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DrBouvenstein posted:I've heard that's a terrible idea because there's no way to know how "clean" the ice is. That's generally true but you can buy clean ice, FYI
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Feb 21, 2018 18:45
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Cleaner than water from a basement hose
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Feb 21, 2018 18:50
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H110Hawk posted:Oh good the one bit of info I thought "must make sure to say" - 3 blinks. "Pressure Switch Open, should be closed." If the inducer motor is getting voltage and is not running, the problem is most likely the motor I would imagine. Can you turn it by hand with the power off? The switch should be closing to detect the pressure changes from the inducer I think.
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Feb 21, 2018 18:53
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I live in an apartment with the cheapest landlord on earth. All the rooms are lit by these awful, prison-feeling flourescent lights. Here's a photo of the current bulb: https://imgur.com/a/8gE3T One of them finally died, and I'd like to find a warmer, softer replacement. I've spent some time digging online, but haven't been able to find any circline fluorescent bulbs described as warm. Given that this one is listed as 3000k, which Google tells me is "soft", am I even going to find anything less brutal on the market? Or are circline bulbs just all basically shop lights?
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Feb 21, 2018 19:41
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3000K would be "warm", not "soft." Soft refers to whether or not the bulb has a diffusion layer on the glass. Frosted, vs. clear. In my opinion, circular fluorescents are the devil. They're expensive and ugly. But to fix that, you'd have to put in a new fixture, and I'm assuming that's out. The bulb you have in now is 4100K, which is like, holy poo poo, that's not what you put in a house for general lighting, especially not in a fluorescent. Hell, the lights in my workshop aren't even that cool. 3000K will seem super warm and pleasant to you by comparison and is the norm for home lighting in most cases. 2000K-2500K is considered candlelight warm, and unless you have a specific need for something like that, will probably feel a bit too...I don't know, groggy. Something that warm would go in, like, a lamp you turn on in the evening, just to provide some cozy ambience. Go with the 3000K, you'll be much happier. 4100K. lol. e: 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 19:48
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Wasabi the J posted:Cleaner than water from a basement hose The water from the hose doesn't go INTO the beer/wort, it goes through a wort chiller:  The chiller is sanitized (usually by just putting it into the boiling wort for the last couple minutes or so of the boil), and cold water runs through the pipe and removes heat from the wort very quickly.
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Feb 21, 2018 19:51
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Bad Munki posted:3000K would be "warm", not "soft." Soft refers to whether or not the bulb has a diffusion layer on the glass. Frosted, vs. clear. Thanks, and yeah, I had mixed up a 3000k I found online with the 4100k in my current place. Does this look like I'm buying the right thing? https://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-FC8T9WW-Circline-Fluorescent-3000-Kelvin/dp/B003N2I39W I'm going to give 3000k a shot and see how it goes. gently caress this landlord, ugh.
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Feb 21, 2018 19:55
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Oh, I wasn't laughing at you, I was laughing at the landlord who put in the 4100K bulbs. Anyhow, as far as I can tell, that looks right. I can hardly keep tube fluorescent sizes straight, much less the donuts, but I think the code "FC8T9WW" deconstructs something like Fluorescent, Circumference 8", circular, Warm White, whereas your old one would be Fluorescent, Circumference 8", circular, Color Rendering Index 80. So physically, it should be a match. If you've been living under 4100K for however long, you'll love 3000K. Also, get yourself a lamp with something stupidly warm like 2000K and just use that late on in the late evening, it's so cozy.
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Feb 21, 2018 20:01
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shovelbum posted:If the inducer motor is getting voltage and is not running, the problem is most likely the motor I would imagine. Can you turn it by hand with the power off? The switch should be closing to detect the pressure changes from the inducer I think. Yeah, this is my guess as well. I can turn it by hand but it feels really snug. Not sure if it's supposed to feel snug though, so I have no idea if that's normal. In theory the inducer creates the draft, the pressure sensor closes signaling adequate draft, and the furnace moves on to gas+spark, then blower. Either way I have a HVAC person coming out later today to have a look-see.
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Feb 21, 2018 20:06
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Bad Munki posted:Oh, I wasn't laughing at you, I was laughing at the landlord who put in the 4100K bulbs. Oh yeah, that’s how I read it, no worries. This landlord is absurdly cheap. I should take some photos of all the hilarious corners he’s cut. He probably chose these bulbs with the plan that tenants would never use them, so they’d never burn out. The only reason I use this one is it’s in a windowless bathroom with no other lights.
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Feb 21, 2018 20:13
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