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bigtom posted:
What’s this now? I don’t have the EATC in my P71, but it blows air out of the dash vents no matter what setting, as well as the selected orifice. I looked and the actuators are definitely working, and the blend door shaft is turning. I figured that either the door flap was not positioned on the shaft correctly, or the seals on the air door(s) were shot. For the time being I just manually close the dash vents, but a little air still leaks through. Not a real problem except the most convenient place for my phone is right in front of the left center vent. Gets a bit warm with the heater running.
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Jan 3, 2018 14:58
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So my ABS and parking brake idiot lights have been for a while on my 03 Grand Marquis. I finally took it in to my mechanic to get diagnosed. Apparently the ABS control module needs to be replaced, which sucks but that's not the weird part. The previous owner or possibly the dealership where I bought the car from used in 2009 had put in a slightly larger fuse to hide the problem. I guess that band aid worked because I've had the car for 8 and a half years and the ABS only started acting up in the last year or so. But the good news is I'm getting it fixed and will have glorious anti-lock brakes again! I'm in a strange place with this car, it runs well and I love it so I want to keep fixing it and keep it on the road. I don't even desire a new car because I love how it drives and how simple the controls are. But at some point putting money in it is going to be stupid. How do you know when it's time to move on?
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Jan 13, 2018 19:11
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Huggable Bear King posted:How do you know when it's time to move on? When the car no longer meets your needs. Get a 200-mile daily commute? Time to get a hybrid. That's when you put the Merc into storage and start planning your Coyote swap to make an even badder Marauder.
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Jan 13, 2018 22:26
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Enourmo posted:When the car no longer meets your needs. Get a 200-mile daily commute? Time to get a hybrid. Good point, Coyote swap would be badass. I know there are a few people who have put 03/04 Terminator engines in, and of course there is the classic 5.4 lightning swap.
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Jan 15, 2018 23:18
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I went to a gas station today that had really finicky pumps, the pumps wouldn't stay running, and the one I had that actually worked ended up overflowing a bit onto the side. It deep cleaned the vinyl on the side of the wagon to the point where I found out that there are tons of cracks down the side of the paneling. It's barely noticeable but it really burns me up. I was planning on having the surround redone at some point, since the paint is all going on them, and was planning on having all of the siding redone, so I'm not tremendously concerned. The vinyl under the gas cap is all ruined from gasoline already, as well as under the door handles and some other spots.  Now the squire matches the other wagon!   The other issue that popped up last week is this noise from the engine bay, you can hear a sort of higher pitched chuffing or clinking from the engine bay at idle. I'm not sure if it's an accessory bearing or what it is, but I might have to take it in to get looked at. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tcoPzOCwr4 On the plus side, I just bought a house! I'll soon have a garage I can actually work on my cars in as of next month! The downside is that takes up all my cash so hopefully this mysterious noise isn't anything major! Luxrage fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jan 19, 2018 |
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Jan 19, 2018 22:43
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Luxrage posted:I went to a gas station today that had really finicky pumps, the pumps wouldn't stay running, and the one I had that actually worked ended up overflowing a bit onto the side. It deep cleaned the vinyl on the side of the wagon to the point where I found out that there are tons of cracks down the side of the paneling. It's barely noticeable but it really burns me up. Sounds like the belt to me, but it could be something rubbing (check all pulleys especially the tensioner and any idlers) or a bad bearing like you say.
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Jan 20, 2018 09:06
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Ahoy me mateys, the great ship Grand Marquis de Sade sets sail. (I bought an 03 mercury) edit: VV I was actually looking into that just a few minutes ago, good timing. As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Jan 25, 2018 |
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Jan 25, 2018 03:59
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With factory keyless? You lucky bastard! If you don't have the keyfob, you can get them on Amazon for like $8 for two, and do a quick program with they ignition on/off cycle procedure.
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Jan 25, 2018 04:02
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i have factory keyless on my '08 grand marquis and i goddamn love it
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Jan 27, 2018 03:27
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I installed an avital alarm in my 08 (with switching ground relay pack for the door lock solenoids) solely so I could have keyless entry. gently caress keyed entry, especially in an old cop car where there's a separate key for the ignition, driver's door, and trunk (and where there's no key for the passenger door). Easy to add a relay to pop the trunk, too, which I did. Only had to open the driver's door, as I apparently have a unicorn cop car that has a power driver's seat (but manual passenger seat) and tapped off of the seat switch for constant 12v supply. The entire alarm kit tucked into the gap between the doorframe and panel. Still wish it would have been factory. Only discovered that I didn't have factory keyless after buying the fobs and attempting a programming.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:50
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Wait, the keypad entry wasn't standard on MGMs? Lucky me, I guess  Then I can never remember which button is open trunk and which is unlock all doors so gently caress it do them both.
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Jan 27, 2018 16:26
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I installed an avital alarm in my 08 (with switching ground relay pack for the door lock solenoids) solely so I could have keyless entry. gently caress keyed entry, especially in an old cop car where there's a separate key for the ignition, driver's door, and trunk (and where there's no key for the passenger door). Easy to add a relay to pop the trunk, too, which I did. Only had to open the driver's door, as I apparently have a unicorn cop car that has a power driver's seat (but manual passenger seat) and tapped off of the seat switch for constant 12v supply. The entire alarm kit tucked into the gap between the doorframe and panel. Put an Omega Max full-on remote start alarm on mine, because I had one I pulled out of my wife's Astro when we traded it, and we haven't had an automatic fuel injected vehicle since, until the Vic. Even if I don't use the remote start feature, it's got raaaaaaaaaaaaaange. And I do use the remote start, because LOL Texas summers. I put at least a basic keyless entry alarm on everything now. Yes, the Corolla will be getting one. I'm kind of sold on Omega products - they've been good to me, but I've got an Audiovox alarm on my '79 RX-7 that's been working since, uuuuuuh, 1996? when I worked at a car audio place. Tough little box. Of course they don't make it any more. It's not field-programmable, code rolling, but reliable.
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Jan 31, 2018 01:35
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If anyone is looking to rust proof the trouble spots on your panther then check out this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHMpJebGx_g I've got some rust on the bottom of the doors and the bottom of the fenders, I'm planning to try this out when it gets warm again.
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Feb 5, 2018 02:56
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Huggable Bear King posted:If anyone is looking to rust proof the trouble spots on your panther then check out this video. Papyrus font. Will not watch. (Kidding. Not a font nazi.) I suppose this will work to prevent rust. Will probably stop or help to stop rust if it's not too advanced. I'm in Texas, so rust isn't nearly as big a problem, though we still get the leaves thing eating fenders (my '70 Cutlass got that particular cancer in the front fenders and in front of the rear wheels - dirt holding water in that case, or possibly junk at the bottom of the side window). My knowledge of rust treatments is therefore much less advanced. Personally, I covered those areas with POR15, and also let it run down the inside of the rockers. That stuff is tough when dried. Not as cheap as mineral oil or ATF, but still fairly cheap. It also does not have much of a shelf life once opened, which is why I buy it in a 6-pack of little (4 oz.?) cans.
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Feb 8, 2018 22:32
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My roomate messaged me at work to let me know our 60'' flatscreen's backlighting died. He had set up an appointment with a TV repair place and we had to take the TV in: It was about a half inch too long with the seats folded up! The engine squeakin' noise is coming and going, but for now I've got the closing on the house coming up this week, so I'll soon have a garage to work in and actually be able to do some projects where I can leave the car overnight in pieces! There's also a crack in the window seal on the right of the tailgate. I'll hit it with some black silicon and seal it up this weekend. We had a pretty bad rain a few days ago and it froze over so I resurrected the 87 Crown Vic as the sacrificial car if I was going to be hitting any black ice. It started right up immediately after sitting for almost a month. The power steering pump is starting to get louder and louder, I took a look in the engine bay and I believe one of the clamps is seeping fluid so this weekend I'll tighten that up and top it off and see if that fixes it. Also, the one amber lamp under the passenger headlight always seems to not come on during the cold weather, usually a kick will seat it properly, but not this time!  On the way back from the TV repair shop the Country Squire hit 80,000 miles! 
Luxrage fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 00:04
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Someone tried to break in through the drivers side door handle unsuccessfully, and ruined the lock. They don't sell replacement lock cylinders for the door on rockauto/autozone/napa/orielly any more. Got a new door handle and lock from pick n pull and a rivet gun from harbor freight for about the same price as a lock cylinder on ebay. I lucked out on rekeying the lock, rearranging the wafers worked without removing any and my original key works perfectly.
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Feb 20, 2018 21:55
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Do you have any tips on removing the lock? My driver and passenger door don't match (the trunk is also different, but that has a button) and I need to rekey the passenger door lock. Do you have to drill it out?
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Feb 20, 2018 21:59
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I have an 00 Grand Marquis that's been feeling hesitant on acceleration in addition to a slipping transmission when it's in overdrive at low RPMs. Well now that hesitation has become more frequent, and it finally tripped a P0307 for a cylinder 7 misfire. I feel comfortable enough wrenching around and replacing parts, but diagnosing stuff I just don't know where to start. Beyond pulling out the spark plug and looking at the tip here, which I've yet to do, toss me some suggestions on what to look for.
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Feb 22, 2018 00:48
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It's coil-per-plug (or coil-on-plug), right? Move the coil/wire around to a different cylinder and see if it follows. If not, I'd probably do a compression test next, because that's probably less work than doing the same thing with the fuel injector.
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Feb 22, 2018 00:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's coil-per-plug (or coil-on-plug), right? Move the coil/wire around to a different cylinder and see if it follows. If not, I'd probably do a compression test next, because that's probably less work than doing the same thing with the fuel injector. Yeah I think these will fit: http://a.co/iqGwePR For that price I'm thinking about just replacing all of them with the plugs. Car has only got 97k on it, I've had it for the last 30k or so and they could be the OG plugs as far as I'm aware
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Feb 22, 2018 01:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's coil-per-plug (or coil-on-plug), right? Move the coil/wire around to a different cylinder and see if it follows. If not, I'd probably do a compression test next, because that's probably less work than doing the same thing with the fuel injector. Both of my 4.6s were 2 coil packs of 4. Packs were split feeding plugs on each side
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Feb 22, 2018 03:06
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I should buy this, right?: https://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/d/supercharged-crown-victoria/6494683203.html
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Feb 22, 2018 03:24
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Both of my 4.6s were 2 coil packs of 4. Packs were split feeding plugs on each side I agree with moving a coil around to see what happens. It's easy and can't hurt anything. kimbo305 posted:I should buy this, right?: https://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/d/supercharged-crown-victoria/6494683203.html
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Feb 22, 2018 04:34
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That was posted in the CL gold thread - it's a scam currently circling the nation's craigslists.kimbo305 posted:I should buy this, right?: https://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/d/supercharged-crown-victoria/6494683203.html
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Feb 22, 2018 04:40
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Ah, did seem too good to be true. Is it just to collect numbers who call?
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Feb 22, 2018 06:00
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kimbo305 posted:Ah, did seem too good to be true. Is it just to collect numbers who call? No you wire money and then they “ship” it.
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Feb 22, 2018 06:13
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Do you have any tips on removing the lock? My driver and passenger door don't match (the trunk is also different, but that has a button) and I need to rekey the passenger door lock. Do you have to drill it out? I have an 07 crown vic and it should be the same for a 98-11. There is a youtube video from 1a auto that helped me. To remove the door handle and lock you have to tap out the center of the rivets with a punch, then drill out the rivets. I had a 13/16 drill bit but a slightly larger one is better. Then take off 3 8mm hex bolts on the inside door trim, pop the window door bezel, take One more 8mm bolt off inside the door, pop the door handle cover on the inside, take a t30 torx to take off the door handle. Then you can reach inside and there is a yellow clip on the bottom that holds the rod connected to the handle. It was easy to unclip on my car, but very difficult to unclip on the donor car. This was the hardest part by far. Maybe you could skip this for just swapping lock cylinders. There is another rod connected to the lock that is easy to disconnect. Then you can wiggle and twist the handle to remove the lock or handle. Putting it back is the same but using a rivet gun with 1/4 inch rivets. Rekeying the cylinder is not too bad. Remove the retaining clip on the back, and pry the plastic cover off the front. I cracked mine in three places but it all went back together fine. Try to spread the force out when you pry it off instead of using pliers. The top and bottom are exposed so you can press on the wafers to turn it so it pops out the front. Then with the cylinder out and you can swap the wafers around until it works with your key. Pressing the black plastic piece on you can use a table to force it down evenly.
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Feb 22, 2018 08:01
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That's a good write-up. Thank you.
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Feb 22, 2018 16:49
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metallicaeg posted:Yeah I think these will fit: WELPS I pulled plug #7 and it was dripping in fresh oil, which would also explain why this engine has consumed oil since I got it. Changed the plug and the coil which was also gunked up and it's been better. I'll get around to the others soon to see how far it goes, but I'm guessing that's a blown gasket of some sort?
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Feb 27, 2018 17:03
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That's happened to me before and I'd also like to know.
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Feb 27, 2018 19:53
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I used these when I replaced my coils. Plus, you get two extra!
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Feb 27, 2018 21:10
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I've always heard the motorcraft coils are the only ones worth getting because the cheap ones don't last. But drat $50 for a set of ten, I wonder how long they'll hold up.
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Feb 28, 2018 03:32
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I found them through a crownvic.net forum post, so we'll see. Hence the two spares. Also, got to use the bull bar to push a disabled car out of the only lane of travel (with the driver's permission, of course). Hell yeah justified mpg drop. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 04:04
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Panther thread on page 3? This won't do! To Craigslist! I'd been thinking about getting a new vehicle, and my Fiero left me stranded three times in a month (goddamned ignition module), so I started browsing Craigslist. 2004 Lincoln Town Car 'Ultimate', 50k miles, 1 owner, $7500. The Carfax listed one accident in 2005, but no airbag deployment or other damage listed, so it can't have been too serious. There's a 6-8" scrape at the bottom of the rocker panel under the passenger door on the passenger side, and a handful of small paint chips (mostly at the edge of the driver's door and around the grill) and two rock chips in the windshield, but otherwise it's in pretty good shape. No dents or dings, nothing seems to leak. No plans to do anything to it right now, this is supposed to be a reliable daily. I'll probably end up replacing the ancient factory touchscreen/nav setup (complete with dvd reader in the trunk) with something more modern, haven't decided what. For now, it's just fun to cruise around in a massive boat.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:11
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And on the second day of ownership, I discovered that the gas gauge doesn't work. Am I correct in assuming that I need to drop the tank to replace the sending unit?
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Apr 19, 2018 06:58
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boxen posted:And on the second day of ownership, I discovered that the gas gauge doesn't work. Eric the Car Guy has a video about this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBjkw8yl1vQ tl;dw you can juuuust get to it above the differential in the 2003+ cars by jacking the car up. He was tight on space by putting jackstands on the axle itself, you may have more room if you put them on the body or suspension mount point and let the axle droop. Pulls it out, checks the sweep with a multimeter, cleans it with some spray just-in-case, reinstalls and it works. However, if it is still broken, you can replace the sending unit without dropping the tank. FORD 7MM BOLT ALERT Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Apr 19, 2018 |
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Apr 19, 2018 07:22
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So I've got 7 NGK 3403 platinum spark plugs and 7 of the ignition coils/plug boots that I'd like to send someone on the cheap. Used one of each on a cylinder that threw a misfire code and didn't get around to replacing the other 7 and then the head gasket blew pissing coolant everywhere and then I scrapped the car. PM me or mail me at my username @gmail if you'd like them. If you take just the plugs I'm sure they'll fit in a flat rate small box and the coils will fit in a medium flat rate, might be able to get both in one of the medium size ones as well. Anyway, just looking to cover shipping plus a few dollars as otherwise I'd just be tossing them out.
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Apr 19, 2018 15:17
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Eric the Car Guy has a video about this! Awesome, thanks! I watched the video and was kind of wondering why he didn't move the jack stands out from under the axle and let the axle droop for more clearance. I'll have to check a wiring diagram, I wonder if there's a spot where I can disconnect the sending unit and put a potentiometer in, to verify the problem isn't with the gauge/wiring. I found a Haynes manual for "1970-2010 Lincoln Rear-Wheel Drive Models", is there any manuals that are more specific, like say 2003-2011 Panther cars? Do I just need to track down a factory service manual?
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Apr 19, 2018 17:22
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boxen posted:Awesome, thanks! I watched the video and was kind of wondering why he didn't move the jack stands out from under the axle and let the axle droop for more clearance. I'll have to check a wiring diagram, I wonder if there's a spot where I can disconnect the sending unit and put a potentiometer in, to verify the problem isn't with the gauge/wiring. I ended up just purchasing an FSM in PDF from from an eBay vendor. That said, the FSM does not include the wiring diagram. That's a separate book. I have a physical copy of that for my 2005. I will try to remember to look at it for you.
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Apr 19, 2018 17:29
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You can get lucky with eBay auctions. I nabbed both services manuals for like.$20 total, and there were several other similarly-priced auctions.
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Apr 19, 2018 17:50
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