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Word. Petroleum based it probably what we should be using. The guy's reasoning is apparently, it performs the same regardless of temperature, barring gently caress off cold of heat I guess......
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Feb 23, 2018 03:44
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wesleywillis posted:Heavy load applications. Like bearings that take a beating there's a sex joke in there somewhere... but I'm just not seeing it. The closest I've been to using a particular grease as a panacea is this: https://www.amazon.com/Bel-Ray-LEPAZA75696-Waterproof-Grease/dp/B0045L75M6 It really does pmuch loving everything. it's been fantastic on valve cover gaskets, seating tires in a pinch, carbs, and pretty much every other gasket surface I've put it on. Obviously not for head gasket, brake hoses, or other stupid uses.
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Feb 23, 2018 06:27
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A chemical engineer years ago turned me onto Mobile 1 XHP 222. I've used it since in my equipment and have zero complaints, except the price. I bought a case of it to save $$$ from Zoro. https://www.mobil.com/en/industrial/lubricants/products/mobilgrease-xhp-222
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Feb 23, 2018 07:10
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:It really does pmuch loving everything. it's been fantastic on valve cover gaskets, seating tires in a pinch, carbs, and pretty much every other gasket surface I've put it on. I've never heard of using grease for any gasket surfaces besides oiling an oil filter's o-ring prior to screwing it on. You use this in lieu of silicone or something?
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Feb 23, 2018 16:42
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I come from heavy-jet aviation, where you use what the manufacturer lists in the maintenance manual, or you go find another line of work. I can't even fathom the mindset required to say" ya, this stuff is waaaay better than the recommended, I'll use it on this $50,000 mill."
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Feb 23, 2018 18:05
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MrYenko posted:I come from heavy-jet aviation, where you use what the manufacturer lists in the maintenance manual, or you go find another line of work. I can't even fathom the mindset required to say" ya, this stuff is waaaay better than the recommended, I'll use it on this $50,000 mill." You might be undershooting the cost of the mill by an order of magnitude, if it's a big CNC. I can easily see some joker thinking "this grease is all sticky and you can't wipe it off, I'll just use oil and everything will stay clean! The jerks that make this just want you to buy their special grease!". I used to work on the design side of heavy industry, our shop guys would have good feedback on some stuff but would try to pull things like that all the time.
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Feb 23, 2018 19:15
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boxen posted:You might be undershooting the cost of the mill by an order of magnitude, if it's a big CNC. I can easily see some joker thinking "this grease is all sticky and you can't wipe it off, I'll just use oil and everything will stay clean! The jerks that make this just want you to buy their special grease!". I used to work on the design side of heavy industry, our shop guys would have good feedback on some stuff but would try to pull things like that all the time. I figured, but I still can't fathom keeping guys around that aren't going to maintain something like that to spec, and just WAG it.
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Feb 23, 2018 19:43
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Where I work doesn't actively punish people for something like that if it's a first offence. In some instances I think they should. We might have got the machine as unused surplus for only £10k (book price about £380k I think) but replacing it won't be lucky enough to wait for a deal, we need a replacement now.
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Feb 23, 2018 21:01
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I redid my work area after I saw the 44" on sale at HF last week. Great deal for a tool cabinet though I barely got it out of my truck. I should have had another person because it is so heavy but I was too excited to wait. The top is a sheet of 3/4" MDF - 4 layers of 2'x4'. I took the opportunity to make a miter bench at the same height out of two sheets of 3/4" plywood. I had some nice Misumi castors with leveling pads so it made getting the right height easy. I tied the tops into the wall studs but left the wheels on so I can move them when we sell the house in spring. 
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Feb 23, 2018 21:43
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Larrymer posted:I've never heard of using grease for any gasket surfaces besides oiling an oil filter's o-ring prior to screwing it on. You use this in lieu of silicone or something? No this is in places where silicone isn't called for. It helps protect sensitive little rubber bits from old monkey-metal. For example: old motorcycle carbs are made from this soft cheese they call pot metal. When you have to rebuild a set of carbs that have been sitting for 12 years, turning the gasoline into jolly ranchers and crystal meth, the metal gets all sorts of weirdly oxidized. When you put a gasket on that surface it a) doesn't seal well, and b) gets eaten to poo poo it seems. Cleaning the surface and then greasing it helps the float bowl o-ring seat better and protects it from corrosion. Same goes for valve cover gaskets and most every low-pressure dry-paper or rubber, oil retaining gasket like the sidecover gaskets. It's also fantastic and really lasts in the places you'd expect to see it like steering head bearings.
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Feb 23, 2018 21:53
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cakesmith handyman posted:Where I work doesn't actively punish people for something like that if it's a first offence. In some instances I think they should. We might have got the machine as unused surplus for only £10k (book price about £380k I think) but replacing it won't be lucky enough to wait for a deal, we need a replacement now. That's just insane to me. One of my old jobs ran similar machines and they were the money makers for the company. If anyone f'd one up that bad, they would have been fired on the spot.
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Feb 24, 2018 07:38
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I posted about this in one of the homeowner threads, but I didn't get any feedback, so I figured I'd try here. A couple years ago I moved to a house with a fairly steep lawn in the backyard (30+ degrees in places). I still have the Toro I used at my last house which is a 190cc front wheel drive, but that is drat near useless here so I'm looking for something with more ability to get up the hills. Right now I'm looking at these two models: Toro All-Wheel-Drive 163CC Troy-Bilt RWD with zero-turn wheels The Toro has AWD going for it, and lots of good reviews mentioning hills (although in many parts of the country, "hill" is much less steep than what I have), but most of what I read indicates that AWD is not much more powerful than RWD. It's also only 163cc, and since my other complaint with my current mower is that it clogs a lot if the grass is a little too green and tall I worry about power. The Troy-Bilt has the zero-turn wheels, which seems like it could be helpful in the flat portions of the yard. Also 190cc. Any thoughts or advice?
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Feb 24, 2018 09:11
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I posted about this in one of the homeowner threads, but I didn't get any feedback, so I figured I'd try here. The AWD Toro is going to be a better mower all around. It's still going to be a pain in the rear end going up steep hills, regardless of what you get unless you get in to the $1000+ price point.
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Feb 24, 2018 15:54
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the spyder posted:That's just insane to me. One of my old jobs ran similar machines and they were the money makers for the company. If anyone f'd one up that bad, they would have been fired on the spot. Sorry, for context we're a press shop as part of a car factory, our main mill is an asquith 3 axis worth a huge envelope (4.5x6x3m) when the chance to buy this matsuura came up we leapt at it and started making some die parts in-house. We got used to having it and as soon as it died we realised how much we use it. It's not our core business, just a great opportunity to speed up and reduce cost for some things.
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Feb 24, 2018 16:07
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Spend some time visiting a local dealer and not a big box store.
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Feb 24, 2018 16:10
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C-Bangin' it 
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I guess that wasn't aimed at me 
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Feb 25, 2018 13:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sorry, for context we're a press shop as part of a car factory, our main mill is an asquith 3 axis worth a huge envelope (4.5x6x3m) when the chance to buy this matsuura came up we leapt at it and started making some die parts in-house. We got used to having it and as soon as it died we realised how much we use it. It's not our core business, just a great opportunity to speed up and reduce cost for some things. Different worlds. I was working for a small aerospace manufacturing firm and every penny to a point counted. We did have a crazy deal like that come through once- but it was 08 and the owners were strapped for cash. I think it was a Matsurra HT630+ for $100k from a local company that went under. The machine new was just over a million two years prior.
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Feb 26, 2018 06:05
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Tool related question- I'm looking at buying a tubing bender (benders) for 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2" stainless .035 wall hard line for various fuel/oil connections. I've looked at Ridgid, Swagelok, and Imperial. Has anyone used these before? Maybe some of the HVAC folks on here? The price difference is staggering, but I am planning on doing several cars now and defiantly don't mind buying once vs wearing out a cheaper bender. Imperial all-in-one - $50. Plus: Cost. Downside: Short throw - stainless is a PITA to bend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P8UUD2 Ridgid - 604/606/608 - $100, $150, $200 respectively. Plus: Swagelok clone. Downside: Made in China. https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-38033-Heavy-Duty-Instrument-Degrees/dp/B00A336RP6 Swagelok - $$$ - Ebay seems to be the best option. Ranging from $150-300 each. Definitely the Cadillac model. And because I'm an idiot, I've already bought this 37 degree flare tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HWNS40
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Feb 26, 2018 21:05
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The rigid 600-series is really nice. I use it on 3/16 gr2 titanium tubing, and it handles it well.
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Feb 27, 2018 03:12
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the spyder posted:Tool related question- I have a set of the Ridgid 600 series ones that I got for $5-10 each at a garage sale and they work really well for stainless and copper. You would be hard pressed to wear them out.
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Feb 27, 2018 04:38
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drat that's a great deal. I'll order the 1/2 and try it out. I just missed a full set of Swagelok's for $400 on eBay. Oh well.
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Feb 27, 2018 06:29
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“US Bolt Kits” has been aggressively advertising their 50lb boxes of random hardware for $50. I took the bait. Came in a medium Fedex box. A couple pouches of common imperial nuts. Some random concrete ties, then a TON of 3/4” and larger nuts and bolts that I’ll probably never use. Some metric and grade 8 mixed in. All in all, I would have been better off paying per pound at Tractor Supply, but I’ll treat most of it as welding and lathe scrap probably.
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Feb 27, 2018 23:27
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Do you think someone knocked over a bunch of bins?
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Feb 28, 2018 07:06
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thebigcow posted:Do you think someone knocked over a bunch of bins? Yea, probably. It’ll be good for keeping the toddler busy when he wanders into the garage, at least.
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Feb 28, 2018 15:22
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Any of you fellow Europeans got any good power tool brand tips that's outside of the usual Maktia/DeWalt/Milwaukee? Just found out about Felo and Wiha tools, which seem to be very good quality, but don't do power tools. Proper built in Europe, not chinesium stuff.
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Feb 28, 2018 17:24
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Hilti. Skookum as frig with a price tag to match. I think Fein is Euro too. In the "not power tools" categori: Teng Tools, Peddinghaus, Wera of course, Hultafors.
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Feb 28, 2018 17:34
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Festool. Outside of larger core drills I don’t think hilti is very good.
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Feb 28, 2018 17:39
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If you're a pro, then Makita & DeWalt are the de facto professional standard ones Not least because you can pick them up from Screwfix from 7am to 8pm so if something goes wrong with your current setup, you don't lose working time getting a replacement. In not-powertools: Halford Pro spanners/sockets.
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Feb 28, 2018 17:51
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Mcqueen posted:Festool. I dunno, we bought my dad a Hilti hand drill ten or so years ago, and it has resisted all of his efforts to kill it. He's the kind of guy who thrashes everything he owns through a combination of heavy and/or incorrect use and hurried bumbling. The drat drill and 1 of 2 batteries are still going strong, despite heavy use in fields such as mixing 5gal paint buckets etc. I mean, it was expensive as gently caress so it better last, but still.
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Feb 28, 2018 18:22
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Has anyone tried out the new line of Harbor Freight Zurich diagnostic tools? https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=zurich
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Mar 1, 2018 02:08
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spog posted:If you're a pro, then Makita & DeWalt are the de facto professional standard ones
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Mar 1, 2018 15:13
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Rhyno posted:Has anyone tried out the new line of Harbor Freight Zurich diagnostic tools? Noticed those a few days ago that they are not longer Centron (Acctron knock offs). Looks like these are basically Innova ones. You can compare the manuals and most of the wording/icons/symbols are drat identical. https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63807.pdf http://pro.innova.com/Content/Support/Manual/Pro/5100.pdf
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Mar 1, 2018 16:44
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slidebite posted:I think there is a lot of regional things with that. Milwaukee is the default here with professional tradespeople (with Rigid in the mix for plumbers... although Milwaukee is making inroads). DeWalt and Makita are a far distant 2nd and 3rd. Team red is really big here. I've seen mostly Milwaukee and Makita here. DeWalt seems to be third. I guess it's very regional.
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Mar 1, 2018 16:50
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Colostomy Bag posted:Noticed those a few days ago that they are not longer Centron (Acctron knock offs). Any benefit to these old style OBD2 readers over a modern OBD2 plug-in with bluetooth and associated phone app? I've had Torque on my phone with a bluetooth OBD2 for a while and being able to see dashboards and overlay trending data in charts in addition to reading codes is pretty baller. It also has a G-meter because why not, that's fun. I was once able to pinpoint a limp mode issue in my old S40 T5 to a boost control solenoid by tracking throttle input and vacuum (boost) against each other, which was pretty slick. Edit: And yeah obviously it can read and reset CELs in the car.
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Mar 1, 2018 18:14
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There's a bunch of contractors at my work at the moment, Dewalt tools out the kazoo, except for one guy with a full ryobi setup. I asked him why (and also if the 6 port charger and angle drill were any good). Apparently it's expected to lose tools all the time with Dewalt etc, but bring Ryobi and you get the piss taken but no one steals your tools. Made me laugh.
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Mar 1, 2018 19:47
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cakesmith handyman posted:There's a bunch of contractors at my work at the moment, Dewalt tools out the kazoo, except for one guy with a full ryobi setup. I asked him why (and also if the 6 port charger and angle drill were any good). Apparently it's expected to lose tools all the time with Dewalt etc, but bring Ryobi and you get the piss taken but no one steals your tools. Made me laugh. My electrician spay paints all his tools hot pink. No one takes them, and he doesn't care if it looks silly.
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Mar 1, 2018 23:36
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sharkytm posted:My electrician spay paints all his tools hot pink. No one takes them, and he doesn't care if it looks silly.
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Mar 1, 2018 23:45
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You have actual shoes and not those toe guard hoof things that clang loudly and make everyone laugh at you?
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Mar 2, 2018 00:03
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Uthor posted:You have actual shoes and not those toe guard hoof things that clang loudly and make everyone laugh at you?
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Mar 2, 2018 00:12
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sharkytm posted:My electrician spay paints all his tools hot pink. No one takes them, and he doesn't care if it looks silly. My friend does this to his tools as well, for the same reasons. Plus, they're really loving hard to lose.
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Mar 2, 2018 01:43
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