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Cheers mate. That video cleared everything up for me. I was about to post before "durrr, what does bad ground mean?" but you saved this young padawan. Thank you master auto-jedis, once again.
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Feb 25, 2018 20:06
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The clutch on my 280Z is not disengaging properly. The guy who sold it to me replaced the master and slave cylinders, so today I bled the line but the problem persists. I did several pump-hold-openvalve-closevalve-release cycles after air stopped bubbling out of the bleeder tube, also verified the fluid reservoir was near full throughout the process. I had a friend pump the clutch pedal then hold it in for a minute, and when she released it the withdrawal arm didn’t move, because it had crept back over the minute already. This seems to imply it lost pressure during that minute, but I checked all the connections and there’s no leak in the line. (The connection at the slave was previously showing some leakage during bleeding, but hasn’t since i tightened it). Does this mean the “new” slave or master has leaky seals internally? Is there a way to verify that’s the issue without buying yet another set and replacing them? Unfortunately I’m a moron who threw out the boxes these parts came in so I can’t easily verify they are the correct spec. The master is stamped 5/8ths which google tells me is the right size, but I can’t see any markings or serial numbers on the slave. Any ideas? Edit: push rod from the master cylinder was too short. Managed to extend it with a coupling nut and set screw. Drove the car around the block for 5 minutes! 
bawfuls fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Feb 26, 2018 |
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Feb 25, 2018 22:16
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I'm desperate. The control arm ball joint on my 2008 LS460 WILL NOT COME OUT. I have literally bent a pickle fork trying to get it out. I have used a jack on the bolt to try and push it out. I have torched it so hot that it melted the bushings. The compression style removers dont fit. This bolt is now damaged from hammering and I don't know what else to try. Ideas?
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Feb 26, 2018 00:16
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2008 Ford Focus 2.0 petrol automatic transmission (BLACK). Anyone have a wiring diagram (preferably in PDF) they can point me towards? The right hand parking light is out, but the globe is fine - it's not getting power to the socket. The plug that goes to the headlight assembly has power on one wire when the parking lights are turned on, but I don't know if it's the correct wire to power this thing. Hoping it is and there's just a break somewhere inside the headlight assembly, as opposed to back on the harness somewhere.
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Feb 26, 2018 00:22
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^ From an "ease of repair" standpoint you'd actually be better off with a break in the harness outside of the headlight. It's easier to access - opening a headlight assembly requires heating it up to the point where the sealant softens enough to remove the plastic lens from the back half of the light housing, to say nothing about the difficulty of removing the whole assembly from newer cars (may require taking the bumper cover off of the car.) If you have power at the harness connector I'd suspect the bulb is out, even if it appears to be OK. I've seen a large number of bulbs that you'd swear were good that actually ended up being burned out. Unless it works in the opposite headlight or passes a continuity check with a volt meter... Tai-Pan posted:I'm desperate. Not familiar with the model, but if it works like most modern suspension there should be a pinch bolt that runs through the bottom of the spindle and it should sit in a groove machined into the ball joint. You're not going to be able to pop the joint out without removing the pinch bolt first. If you already have the nut removed I'd grind the bolt flush with the spindle and then try to tap it out with a center punch and a sledge hammer. Heating the spindle around the bolt will help drive it out. If that fails, or if the bolt threads into the spindle instead of a nut you'll either have to drill out the bolt or find a replacement spindle. Geoj fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 26, 2018 |
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Feb 26, 2018 00:56
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I had to impact-chisel the rivet heads off to get the balljoint out of my control arms. If you don't have a compressor big enough to run that, I'd also vote "cut it off."
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Feb 26, 2018 02:52
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Is this the appropriate thread for "suggest me a vehicle" type questions?
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Feb 26, 2018 04:31
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Javid posted:Is this the appropriate thread for "suggest me a vehicle" type questions? There is a car buying thread in ask tell.
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Feb 26, 2018 05:11
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spog posted:The fake sharkfin aerial on my Saab 9-3 convertible has come off. It looks like the foam pad has separated. Option 4: replace that boring thing with something better. It's basically decorative with a "function" a brick could do, so all you need is something approximately the same size as that fake sharkfin and suitable for a bumper for your roof (so, not a knife blade, then). When the Superior German Adhesive holding my BMW hood ornament roundel failed on the highway, I replaced it with a plastic dinosaur skull.  SD 103 53 by Martin Brummell, on FlickrLater, I had to re-assemble and reinforce it after the upper part separated from the lower (fortunately, not at speed, in my hand when I was closing the hood - "that looks loose" *pop*) and I painted it "bone white" (spray paint is fun).  SD 127 Car Appearance by Martin Brummell, on FlickrI *should have* attached it directly to the hood with bolts, but what I did was wire and screw it to the plastic plate that held the original roundel. It fits into a pair of holes in the hood, and stays in place by friction. With much more air resistance, this failed after a few months, again at speed on a highway. I haven't found something suitable to attach to my Ranger's silly front 'wildlife tenderizer' / winch mount, yet.
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Feb 26, 2018 05:40
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ExecuDork posted:I'm late on this but I think my idea is better than sticking the fin back on. I've double-checked and in fact it is entirely ornamental with the sole purpose of covering up a 10x10mm square hole that would be used if there were a real antenna there. I haven't yet fixed it as a) 100*60mm foam pads aren't available at any local shops, so I'll be getting it online and b) bugger doing a cosmetic fix in the freezing cold weather. Perhaps I should use this opportunity to creatively express myself.
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Feb 26, 2018 14:48
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Your BMW is so drat cool. (aside from the hood ornament)
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Feb 26, 2018 20:28
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Geoj posted:
It doesn't have a pinch bolt (or at least I cant find it). I decided to remove the whole spindle and, guess what, the other control arm bolt is stuck too. I had to give up for now.
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Feb 26, 2018 20:45
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My truck is a 1992 chevy s-10 with a 4.3l v6 and an automatic transmission. It has 230k miles or so. I rarely drive it so it sits in my driveway for weeks or sometimes a couple months at a time. Recently noticed the battery had run way down: truck still started, but the dash was showing like 9v or so, and the battery light came on. Drove it about 30m or so that day and the voltage only dropped so I think it wasn't charging while running, even at freeway speeds. Brought the truck home and put the battery on a plug-in charger. It's a very old Sears charger, there's nothing but a 6v-12v switch on the front, so it's very very basic. Anyway ran that overnight and the battery charged up some, but not a lot. Brought the battery in to Autozone and the guy said the battery is OK, was only at 30% charge though. Took it home and stuck it back on the charger. It's been on there for almost two days now. I can hear it fizzing and it's only drawing 1 amp same as it has been for at least the last 24 hours. I thought it'd drop to zero when it was fully charged? Question: how long should I leave it on the charger? And, should I pop it open and add distilled water, since I can hear it's been fizzing all along? Do I need one of those battery acid eyedropper tester thingies? Assuming the battery is OK, I suspect the issue was corrosion on the terminals, which I'm going to clean up, but then the next question is whether the alternator is still functioning correctly. Given I have a multimeter, what's the easiest way to check the alternator function? The battery is a Duralast 75-DL. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Feb 26, 2018 |
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Feb 26, 2018 20:46
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Geoj posted:A rock trapped against the brake rotor or a brake dust shield rubbing against one are likelier than a wheel bearing. Symptoms of a failing wheel bearing usually manifest as a pulsing noise you can hear with the windows up, and if you turn in one direction the sound diminishes and increases when you turn the other. You can also diagnose a failed bearing by grabbing the wheel (with it lifted off the ground) at 12 and 6 and see if you can wiggle the wheel. You're right it wasn't a wheel bearing. Turns out the front brakes were completely shot. I guess I just had the rear ones replaced last year. I had thought the grinding with brakes only happened when braking.
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Feb 26, 2018 20:49
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Disc brakes normally have a wear indicator tab built into the pad - it scrapes against the rotor when you're not applying the brakes, causing a metallic squealing. It's meant to get your attention when the pads are done.
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Feb 27, 2018 00:50
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Leperflesh posted:My truck is a 1992 chevy s-10 with a 4.3l v6 and an automatic transmission. It has 230k miles or so. Get a better charger is the first answer. Some really back of the napkin math here, but assuming you've got an average battery with the average 48A rating, your 1A (which is probably actually 1 Amp-hour, as in delivers 1 amp per hour) will take about 48 hours to fully charge your battery. This is an ideal kind of thing, though, because from experience it doesn't work as cleanly as that. Batteries are weird, and a newer charger that has a higher amperage setting (maybe 2! Maybe even 6!?) would do you more favors. Plus I think there is some wizardry going on in new chargers, I don't think they just trickle charge like the old ones. The smart chargers do some wave-charging and have some sensing circuitry and change what they're feeding your battery depending on what part of the charge cycle you're on. ANYWAY you're going to want get a cheap voltmeter and once your battery is charged up you will have to test and see if your alternator is working.
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Feb 27, 2018 00:55
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Just take it back to autozone to get it tested. If it needs to be charged, let them do it. It's free and a lot loving faster than your trickle charger. They'll test your alternator, too.
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Feb 27, 2018 01:12
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Disc brakes normally have a wear indicator tab built into the pad - it scrapes against the rotor when you're not applying the brakes, causing a metallic squealing. It's meant to get your attention when the pads are done. I had a weird one a few years ago on a friend's Mazda 6 - the brakes would make a noise like stone grinding against stone, but only for the first few times you stopped. Once they had warmed up they sounded fine. He asked me to get rid of it even though the pads and discs had a decent amount of meat left on them, so I just replaced the whole lot and bedded them in properly.
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Feb 27, 2018 01:18
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The 2006 Dodge Durango I bought off my friend as 230k miles. Most of those are highway miles because he had a 2hr commute to work everyday. Assuming you keep up with regular maintenance, and the miles you put on your vehicle are from normal city driving... How long could a truck like this (4.7L v8) last, potentially? Maybe up to 300K miles? If memory serves me, other than a few exceptions, I don't think most Domestic trucks make it much farther than 300k. mi. right?
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Feb 27, 2018 04:31
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Properly maintained you can keep any vehicle going as long as you want. The question mark is when either maintenance or repairs cost more than it's worth to you. The 4.7 has a few problem areas, namely valve seats (don't get the engine hot!) and the timing chain (seems to cause noise more than failure, but who knows). I see plenty with well over 200k on them like yours, but over 300k is rare for any vehicle because by that point most cars are near worthless, and the odds of a catastrophic mechanical failure (engine, trans, etc) are high.
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Feb 27, 2018 04:48
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So, conceivably, you could keep replacing engines and transmissions to keep a truck on the road ? Given that the rest of the car holds up..
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Feb 27, 2018 06:26
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Eventually you end up all With a 300k mile car, the issue becomes a matter of collected deferred maintenance and major failures. Most people who own a car that high in miles are maybe going to hold off on that $600 set of tires, or the shocks, or the suspension bushings, or the rust... Then when it blows a head gasket or grenades the transmission, it starts looking like you're throwing thousands at a car worth hundreds.
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Feb 27, 2018 06:36
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There's 90s and newer cars out there that, with fastidious maintenance and a dash of luck, make it to the million mile mark, or near enough. The days of 100,000 miles signifying the death knell for a car are long past.
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Feb 27, 2018 07:36
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Enourmo posted:There's 90s and newer cars out there that, with fastidious maintenance and a dash of luck, make it to the million mile mark, or near enough. The days of 100,000 miles signifying the death knell for a car are long past. Yeah, 100k at average 55 on a highway commuter or whatever is like 1800 operating hours. If that were your lifespan on any other machine you'd probably be suing the manufacturer!
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Feb 27, 2018 13:00
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Memento posted:I had a weird one a few years ago on a friend's Mazda 6 - the brakes would make a noise like stone grinding against stone, but only for the first few times you stopped. Once they had warmed up they sounded fine. He asked me to get rid of it even though the pads and discs had a decent amount of meat left on them, so I just replaced the whole lot and bedded them in properly. Wow, you didn't just tell him thats pretty normal? Happens to me every time I drive my car after it rains.
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Feb 27, 2018 13:35
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shovelbum posted:Yeah, 100k at average 55 on a highway commuter or whatever is like 1800 operating hours. If that were your lifespan on any other machine you'd probably be suing the manufacturer!  Even when that was the law, just 
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Feb 27, 2018 16:57
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Godholio posted:
I would figure that traffic jams, getting to/from highways, surface streets, errands, etc. would drag the average speed at which a car was operated down. It's just a guess sheesh.
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Feb 27, 2018 17:03
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spog posted:I've double-checked and in fact it is entirely ornamental with the sole purpose of covering up a 10x10mm square hole that would be used if there were a real antenna there. iirc those fins are for the OnStar antenna, which maybe you don't have in the UK?
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Feb 27, 2018 17:03
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The Durango I bought has 2 new matching tires up front - one different tire in the rear - and another different tire that's not quite as wide as the others (marginally) Would it be best for me to replace BOTH rear tires, or just the one with the missing width of the others? To get them to match sizes... Or does it even matter really?
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Feb 27, 2018 17:28
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I have had a long and difficult relationship with tires. I never seem to get the tires I really want, usually due to time constraints. The one time I got tires I was truly happy with, the car they were for died. Buy 2 new tires for the back. Spend more than you think you have to, don't get the cheapest, nastiest poo poo they have, get something good.
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Feb 27, 2018 21:10
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Always replace tires in pairs, and always put the best tires on the rear. I know that this sucks because the front tires wear much more quickly on most vehicles, which is why rotations are importan.
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Feb 27, 2018 21:29
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epic bird guy posted:iirc those fins are for the OnStar antenna, which maybe you don't have in the UK? It's used for the optional car phone which apparently was something of a rarity. Does Onstar use the cellular system? Maybe they share an aerial?
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Feb 27, 2018 21:39
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spog posted:Perhaps I should use this opportunity to creatively express myself. spog posted:It's used for the optional car phone which apparently was something of a rarity. I have formed an idea. Glue an old Nokia to your car. Say "No, it's Finnish" when people talk about your Swedish car
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Feb 27, 2018 23:08
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Breakfast Feud posted:Get a better charger is the first answer. Some really back of the napkin math here, but assuming you've got an average battery with the average 48A rating, your 1A (which is probably actually 1 Amp-hour, as in delivers 1 amp per hour) will take about 48 hours to fully charge your battery. This is an ideal kind of thing, though, because from experience it doesn't work as cleanly as that. Thanks for the info. I figured an old charger would charge a simple battery for an old truck. It has a gauge on the front for amps, which goes all the way up to 8. The 6 is in extra big font. It's now reading about 0.75 amps, so I think it's never going to get all the way down to zero. When I first hooked it up, it was pulling around six amps. So I think the charger is doing some rudimentary thing that lets it charge fast at first, and then slow down as the battery gets closer to fully charged. I've got a voltmeter, watched a couple youtube videos, so I'll check the alternator tonight. Doesn't look too hard.
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Feb 28, 2018 01:15
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spog posted:It's used for the optional car phone which apparently was something of a rarity. I believe it does use the cellular network, allowing it to be available nearly everywhere. I'm pretty sure it was standard on the US 9-5s and 9-3s, unlike the rare phone.
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Feb 28, 2018 01:55
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spog posted:Does Onstar use the cellular system? Yes it does. Earlier versions used AMPS, the earlier digital versions were both AMPS and CDMA, after that came pure CDMA, and current versions are GSM+LTE. My own car is pure CDMA, and has an antenna that handles CDMA + GPS, and can be swapped for one that handles CDMA + GPS + XM (XM was an option on my car, but I've only ever seen one of my car model with that antenna). In the US, they ran on Verizon Wireless (and their roaming agreements) for AMPS and CDMA. GSM is on AT&T, though there's been talk of them using some Verizon technology again (maybe some of the tech that Verizon has developed for their Hum product line?). I have no idea what the AMPS models used for an antenna (maybe the car's normal radio antenna?), but the CDMA and GSM versions use a sharkfin antenna of some type. FWIW, OnStar was only standard on the top trim version of my car; the lower trim models don't have a cutout in the roof for the antenna. epic bird guy posted:I believe it does use the cellular network, allowing it to be available nearly everywhere. I'm pretty sure it was standard on the US 9-5s and 9-3s, unlike the rare phone. Depending on year model, OnStar includes a built-in phone that runs through the car stereo. Minutes were hilariously expensive if you didn't already have a plan with the carrier your car's OnStar system ran through; mine has a CDMA version running on VZW, and aside from the initial "300 minutes for  " offer, minutes were generally 50 cents. Each. When bought in bulk. If you bought in smaller quantities, it could run upwards of $1/minute. They also expired after 6 months.  You could add it as a shared line on Verizon Wireless, if you already had VZW. I think you can add the current versions as a shared line on AT&T, but at least current GM models also include bluetooth. Technically my car still has its own phone number, but the phone mostly runs through the factory radio (which has been in a box in a closet for years). I could get OnStar working again if I tossed the original radio back in (or added a ~$150 adapter to my current stereo), but OnStar on my car will be forever dead whenever VZW sunsets its EVDO network.Making it more fun, on my car anyway, you could only voice dial (no buttons) or dial by name (verbally, but it was a PITA to store names/numbers). No voicemail for missed calls. No caller ID of any kind for incoming stuff, "INCOMING CALL" just showed on the radio. So much fun when telemarketers would call. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:48 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 10:31
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I've got a 1990 Toyota Crown ~Royal Saloon~ wagon I've imported from Japan to drive around like an old grandpa here in the USA. It's equipped with a 1JZ-GE. I've already changed the water pump, timing belt, tenisoners and various other bad bearings within that system and everything is A+++. However, I get terrible gas mileage. Come to find out the oxygen sensor situation is...messed up.  Right here is the factory diagram for this specific car, showing part 89465, 'SENSOR, OXYGEN' toward the upper left there. It's a single, unbroken wire that terminates into a connector. Like most other oxygen sensors the sensor end plugs into the exhaust before the catalytic converter. On my crown I have a sensor plugged in there but it isn't connected to anything. To my ignorant eyes, in fact, it looks like the wrong sensor, it looks more like an exhaust sensor since this is what the bare end in my car looks like:  To me that looks suspiciously like the sensor end of the 89425, 'SENSOR, EXHAUST' part helpfully also on that diagram above as this one has a single wire and has this little rubber grommet thing with the single copper contact sticking out. Looking around I see some 'universal' sensors looking like this so it's perfectly possible that this is one of those, just not connected. The other issue relating to this is, since the sensor isn't plugged in to anything I have to hunt around for what the sensor is supposed to plug into. Finding this information is hellaciously difficult because of language barriers, and what information there is simply goes 'use the current wiring idiot'. Weirdly I also have a tube with a single wire sticking out, in the upper left of the picture with the '???' by it. That is a single wire sticking out that looks like it was cut and has just a bit of copper on the end left to hang. This disappears into the wiring close by. I do have this that is in-line with the distance and position of the oxygen sensor to plug in to:  This looks a lot like the other end that Supra guys with their 1JZ-GTEs plug their oxygen sensors into as illustrated in posts like these.  With mine being a 4 pin connector rather than the 3 pin the guy in that post was looking for. I have no dash lights or check engine lights (and the bulbs do all work since they light up with a key turn) just awful gas mileage which is always attributed to oxygen sensors going bad. Am I on the right track? These sensors don't seem to be bespoke wonder parts and there shouldn't be anything special about my Crown. I found this for sale here in the US that mentions a 4 pin connector and it's for a 1JZ-GTE in the right set of years that my car is in but I can't find a picture of what the connector end looks like. Base on the one dude above bitching about the sensor lies there is an unbroken plastic tab in the center of those sensors, where as my plug end has a break in that tab.
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Feb 28, 2018 20:11
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1 wire sensors were pretty common back then, and that's definitely an oxygen sensor, but probably the wrong one. I found the full part number for the Denso you linked, it has an unbroken tab. https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4626-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCV8 I also found (on ebay) an O2 for a Crown, but it has the same unbroken tab. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 22:48
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Uh... I think I may have found it. Maybe. Looks like it may have been shared with the US 1989 Toyota pickup? Has the right plug on it anyway - you have to zoom way the gently caress in on the plug to really see it, but you can tell that the notch in the middle lines up, can also tell that it has a groove on each side that would line up with that plug. https://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4056-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCM2 e: found a larger photo on ebay, almost positive that's the right plug. If you have a multimeter, probe the pins on the connector and see if whatever pins the 2 black wires on the Denso sensor would be for the sensor heater (should be battery voltage between them with the key on, then blue would be signal, white would be ground - below pic should be enough to figure out which pin is which, guessing it's the 2 on either side of the longer tab). Even if it's not right, it shouldn't be hard to re-pin. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Feb 28, 2018 |
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Feb 28, 2018 22:58
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 19:23 |
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Uh... I think I may have found it. Maybe. Looks like it may have been shared with the US 1989 Toyota pickup? Has the right plug on it anyway - you have to zoom way the gently caress in on the plug to really see it, but you can tell that the notch in the middle lines up, can also tell that it has a groove on each side that would line up with that plug. This is awesome goddamn. I've already ordered the sensor (Prime  ) but will do as you instruct in regards to the checking the pins and probing it. I'll post back when I get it on Friday.Thank you a million!
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Feb 28, 2018 23:26
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