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Face looks good, give us the deets! Mass, materials, construction techniques.
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Feb 26, 2018 16:50
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Slung Blade posted:Face looks good, give us the deets! Mass, materials, construction techniques. its a rounding hammer with one rounded face and a flat face, I am pretty excited to use this thing for the first time.
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Feb 27, 2018 19:28
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Ugh, the new clickspring video is so amazing. He casts flywheels and rod stock from bronze he made himself. How does someone get so amazing at stuff?
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Feb 28, 2018 15:34
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Brekelefuw posted:Ugh, the new clickspring video is so amazing. I don't know, but it is inspiring when you see the size of his shop and the work he does in it... with good videography on top of it.
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Feb 28, 2018 16:02
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Brekelefuw posted:Ugh, the new clickspring video is so amazing. link?
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Feb 28, 2018 16:32
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CarForumPoster posted:link? Here you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtWVA7_9Rik
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Feb 28, 2018 16:57
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Brekelefuw posted:How does someone get so amazing at stuff? Would you like to know the secret? hard work, dedication, care and perseverance
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Feb 28, 2018 17:31
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Feb 28, 2018 17:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:Would you like to know the secret? Yeah but how do I skip all the necessary steps and just instantly become good?
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Feb 28, 2018 19:24
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Brekelefuw posted:Yeah but how do I skip all the necessary steps and just instantly become good? Just buy my series of books and overpriced tools...
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Feb 28, 2018 20:05
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Brekelefuw posted:Yeah but how do I skip all the necessary steps and just instantly become good? Write self insert fiction?
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Mar 1, 2018 00:22
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Toying with the sheet metal function in Fusion, it's very basic. I wish there was a simple bend function so I could make a 2D sketch and bend it later where I wanted to.   I do want to want to make a table for my portaband though, and the original designer (Brian Oltrogge) isn't giving any specs.
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Mar 1, 2018 10:52
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I think autodesk products like you to do the 3D model before they change it into a sheetmetal version. Creo which I originally leant did it the the other way round and let you put bends into a flat object. Inventor which is the more professional version of fusion is capable of doing sheet but I haven't really played with it yet
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Mar 1, 2018 11:12
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I'm looking into getting some metal shapes cut out with a waterjet. What's the best software for me to use to create the drawings, and what's the best file format to send to the shop? They asked for CAD files, generically.
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Mar 1, 2018 13:13
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For 2d a .dxf is good. Fusion is free for hobbiests and cheap for professional use. You'll have to export the file and specify a dxf.
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Mar 1, 2018 13:30
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So out of curiosity, I've been thinking about doing freelance 3D modeling and CAD in my spare time. Do you guys think theres a market for that sort of thing? How much would you be willing to pay? No idea what I would charge. I have Solidworks and SW certifications, so I'm very comfortable with the program. Maybe theres a better thread to ask in? 
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Mar 1, 2018 15:35
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Pagan posted:I'm looking into getting some metal shapes cut out with a waterjet. What's the best software for me to use to create the drawings, and what's the best file format to send to the shop? They asked for CAD files, generically. DXF for sure.
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Mar 1, 2018 15:53
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Super Waffle posted:So out of curiosity, I've been thinking about doing freelance 3D modeling and CAD in my spare time. Do you guys think theres a market for that sort of thing? How much would you be willing to pay? No idea what I would charge. I have Solidworks and SW certifications, so I'm very comfortable with the program. Maybe theres a better thread to ask in? We've hired out work when it goes beyond right angles or involves complex simulations. There is a market, but you'd be living the freelance life. I actually have a project I could hire out now, PM me your rates and we'll chat.
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Mar 1, 2018 20:41
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Pagan posted:I'm looking into getting some metal shapes cut out with a waterjet. What's the best software for me to use to create the drawings, and what's the best file format to send to the shop? They asked for CAD files, generically. Definitely dxf. Also you're in RI aren't you? Who do you have quoting the parts? If it is something small it might be something I could knock out in off hours, we have a couple waterjet machines. Edit: most shops should be able to work off a print or sketch if they're not jerks. Edit 2: Actually my boss is on vacation until next week so if you felt like a road trip this weelend I could make something while you wait, depending on what it is you want. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Mar 1, 2018 |
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Mar 1, 2018 21:02
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Definitely dxf. Also you're in RI aren't you? Who do you have quoting the parts? I've got some parts for a waterjet place, I'm on the Cape. YHPM.
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Mar 1, 2018 23:47
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Definitely dxf. Also you're in RI aren't you? Who do you have quoting the parts? Hey man, I didn't know you were local. I need some 3/16" 316SS plate parts cut for an oceanographic part. I can shoot you DXF, PDF, or SLDRWs. No huge rush, and I can order material if you don't have any handy.
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Mar 1, 2018 23:48
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sharkytm posted:Hey man, I didn't know you were local. I need some 3/16" 316SS plate parts cut for an oceanographic part. I can shoot you DXF, PDF, or SLDRWs. No huge rush, and I can order material if you don't have any handy. Are you associated with WHOI? We've done some work for them in the past. I'd have to take a look, we don't cut too much 316, it's usually 304. You can email me at wdevine07 at Hotmail dot com. Depending on the size of the job it may have to go through official work channels. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Mar 2, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 00:45
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Yooper posted:We've hired out work when it goes beyond right angles or involves complex simulations. There is a market, but you'd be living the freelance life. I actually have a project I could hire out now, PM me your rates and we'll chat. I don't have PM's, got another way I can contact you?
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Mar 2, 2018 15:24
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Super Waffle posted:I don't have PM's, got another way I can contact you? You might consider buying PMs for this -- it's, what, $10 extra? Consider it a business expense.
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Mar 2, 2018 17:49
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Tax deductible SA account, smart.
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Mar 2, 2018 17:54
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Hey guess what! The republicans decided, nah. https://primepay.com/blog/tax-reform-suspends-unreimbursed-itemized-business-expenses that's if you're claiming it as an unreimbursed employee expense, of course. As a business, you're still free to deduct unreimbursed business expenses. Because gently caress workers, amirite
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Mar 2, 2018 23:01
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I really don't intend for this to be my business, I'm a gainfully employed mechanical engineer in a multi-billion dollar company. I just like using SolidWorks and a couple extra hundred bucks a month would he nice to spend on nerd hobbies 
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Mar 2, 2018 23:58
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Definitely dxf. Also you're in RI aren't you? Who do you have quoting the parts? Aldo, the Jersey Steel Baron! Apparently, they have a relationship with a waterjet guy, so they'll send your special exotic steel order, get it cut, and then ship it to you. I'm going to see what that costs, but I would love to get to know more local folks anyway! I **finally** bought a belt grinder, after realizing how much time I was wasting not using the right tool. Now I realize, I can forge knives just fine, but things like grinding and handle making are areas I have no practice. My plan is to get 10 or 15 blanks cut out of W-2, so I can go right to grinding and handlemaking. As much as I like to scoff at knifemakers who don't forge, I must admit, they have serious skills of their own, and I need practice. Do you have any high carbon steel? I have a few small pieces of stock sitting around my shop, but nothing much longer than 18"
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Mar 3, 2018 16:12
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Super Waffle posted:I really don't intend for this to be my business, I'm a gainfully employed mechanical engineer in a multi-billion dollar company. I just like using SolidWorks and a couple extra hundred bucks a month would he nice to spend on nerd hobbies Lemme set something up. I'm in the midst of a raging head cold atm.
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Mar 3, 2018 18:16
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Probably not the best thread for this but we're on CAD stuff- i'm designing a conforming die for a sheet metal jewellery component. I've vectorized the design (a simplified human heart, fwiw) and am designing the male half of the die. I want to have the form be gently-domed overall but proportionally so (i.e. not just the shape projected onto a circular or oval domed surface) while also having each 'segment' of the design (arteries and ventricles and so on) be domed in the same way. Basically I just want a very organic/'intuitive' embossed effect with the actual dimensions being fairly unimportant, but haven't been able to achieve anything satisfactory with lower-hanging solidworks features like doming. I've never tried modelling something that's all curves like this before so idk the most painless way to go about it- my next tack is to do a bunch of cross-sections of the part and loft the solid, but that might be more work than I need to take on here.
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Mar 3, 2018 19:40
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I'm somewhat embarrassed to admit this, but I've been playing with machine tools now for the better part of a decade and I still don't have a good understanding of why my surface finish on the lathe always looks like hot rear end. I watch This Old Tony get near mirror finishes and I wonder what the heck I'm doing wrong. I've always used brazed carbide tooling (cause I mistakenly thought it was the best/cheapest option for a beginner) like this: https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02631323?rd=k I only ask because I just did a little job for a guy to make some spacers out of hardware store aluminum for $50 and they looked like absolute rear end so I kinda felt ashamed and like I should do a better job. (I cleaned up the marks with a file and some emory cloth, but still.)
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Mar 3, 2018 21:26
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The go-to question is- what speeds/feeds are you working with? The slower the feed relative to the spindle speed, the better a finish you'll get. The difference between turning a part at, say, 500 vs 1000 RPM at an identical feed rate can give markedly-different finishes. You've probably already tried this, though, it's low-hanging fruit. I'd guess the issue is tooling. You can run carbide a lot harder and work faster than with HSS, and you won't have to grind tools from scratch to start making chips, that's true- but it's also stopped you from grinding your own tools from scratch to meet your machining needs, which ime is incredibly instructive in understanding one of the biggest determinants of surface finish. I'm assuming you have cheap import cutters that you haven't dressed or otherwise modified? If so, I bet there's virtually no nose on em, which makes it almost impossible to turn those ugly sharp hills+valleys you're likely getting now at any feed into much smoother overlapping scallops even at fairly high feed rates. Could also be more substantial issues with the grind you haven't noticed but undressed/very sharp noses are the thing I've seen all the time with that kind of tool. Might also be rigidity, if you're working with long bits and clamping em too far back that'll make for murderous chatter on p much any cut. Even if it isnt the source of your problem, I'd buy some HSS blanks and grind your own bits. It's an absolutely essential skill for a hobbyist because it lets you outfit yourself with a comprehensive + thorough range of tools for, like, less than $20 assuming you have a bench grinder and can dress the wheel. Making your tools also gives you a really good sense of what they need to cut well so you can hone and clean them up as needed properly. This Old Tony's video where he derives a tool profile from first principles of lathe turning is fantastic for communicating the holistic methodology of grinding lathe tools vs. "reproduce these weird-rear end angles to this tolerance for Reasons, Just Trust Me" as it often gets taught. You can't run HSS as hard as carbide and can definitely get much nicer + easier finishes with carbide once you know you're using it properly, but being able to produce or modify tooling as needed is a core skill you'll be limited without. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Mar 4, 2018 |
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Mar 3, 2018 21:51
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Seconding you should try your hand at grinding some HSS tools. A little nose radius will take you a long way, and another thing that was a major breakthrough for me in my apprentice days was figuring out that I was setting the lead angle completely backwards: While intution would have you point the tip of the tool into the cut like you're carving with a knife, leaning it back the other way a few degrees gives a better finish and lets you take ~500% deeper cuts at the same feed and speed. If you're getting an ugly finish on aluminum at 250 sfpm something's wrong.
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Mar 4, 2018 07:17
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Pagan posted:
Do you mean something like 1095? We usually just deal in specific grades.
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Mar 4, 2018 12:03
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Do you mean something like 1095? We usually just deal in specific grades. 1084 or 1095 would be perfect. As would W-1 or W-2
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Mar 4, 2018 17:02
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Pagan posted:1084 or 1095 would be perfect. As would W-1 or W-2 We may have 1095 lying around. We've got a whole buttload of various stainless and tool steel though.
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Mar 4, 2018 18:44
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Does anyone have any info on how to use carbide insert tools properly in a manual lathe? I am up to my eyeballs in books and forums threads saying LEAVE IT TO THE PROS and then telling me how to grind HSS tools, but I'm operating in an environment where there are generally no HSS tools but plenty of carbide inserts. Like are there some diagrams somewhere?
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Mar 4, 2018 19:08
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shovelbum posted:Does anyone have any info on how to use carbide insert tools properly in a manual lathe? I am up to my eyeballs in books and forums threads saying LEAVE IT TO THE PROS and then telling me how to grind HSS tools, but I'm operating in an environment where there are generally no HSS tools but plenty of carbide inserts. Like are there some diagrams somewhere? Do you have any idea what specific inserts you're using? I've had a lot of luck getting speed and feeds numbers at least to start with by checking manufacturers websites. There's so many different grades and geometry it's hard to give that one simple answer.
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Mar 4, 2018 19:18
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Probably not the best thread for this but we're on CAD stuff- i'm designing a conforming die for a sheet metal jewellery component. I've vectorized the design (a simplified human heart, fwiw) and am designing the male half of the die. I want to have the form be gently-domed overall but proportionally so (i.e. not just the shape projected onto a circular or oval domed surface) while also having each 'segment' of the design (arteries and ventricles and so on) be domed in the same way. Basically I just want a very organic/'intuitive' embossed effect with the actual dimensions being fairly unimportant, but haven't been able to achieve anything satisfactory with lower-hanging solidworks features like doming. I've never tried modelling something that's all curves like this before so idk the most painless way to go about it- my next tack is to do a bunch of cross-sections of the part and loft the solid, but that might be more work than I need to take on here. Try something like meshmixer to do the sculpting? it’s better for organic shapes.
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Mar 4, 2018 21:51
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Do you have any idea what specific inserts you're using? I've had a lot of luck getting speed and feeds numbers at least to start with by checking manufacturers websites. There's so many different grades and geometry it's hard to give that one simple answer. It changes every time I go on a job. I will just have to do that as I go I guess, I never even thought about it. Thanks a ton. Edit: Hey, paydirt https://www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/knowledge/general_turning/initial-considerations/pages/default.aspx A whole guide page from a very basic starting point for anyone else in this position shovelbum fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 05:13
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