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n0tqu1tesane posted:You're generally going to hit a limit within the switch too, that's less than the full wire speed of all of the ports on a switch. Yeah I didn't want to get too into internal limits but you're right. The switch chips can't do full gigabit full duplex to all the ports simultaneously. Most of them are clear on their limitations if you look at the spec sheets.
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Feb 27, 2018 22:15
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Thanks!
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Feb 27, 2018 22:25
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Thanks Ants posted:Printers and smart TVs seem notoriously terrible at not realising that networks can have more than one AP, so they list every radio they can see with the same SSID, and never bother to connect to anything other than the physical device they were connected to when originally set up. Ahh... the stupid devices that only use the BSSID/MAC to connect instead of the SSID/Name. I've had the "pleasure" of dealing with stupid devices like that at work.
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Feb 27, 2018 22:28
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Good evening goons. I'm in the UK and planning to move house within the next few months. It's a new build so I'm getting cat 6 ethernet cables piped around different rooms. Area wise, it's not a huge house, but since I can get ethernet set into the walls it saves me a) drilling through stuff myself at a later time and b) worrying about WiFi congestion, interference, or general skuldiggery. In my part of the world, it's basically BT or bust, meaning BT phone lines. The best we can get is fibre, specifically FTTC connectivity like BT Infinity and Plusnet Fibre, but not the likes of Virgin cable. In my current home I have the BT Openreach white box thing (the modem?), coupled with an Asus RT-AC87U. The new place will potentially have download speeds of around 50-60Mbps. The devices I'll be connecting are the likes of Amazon Fire TV, Xbox, smart TVs, phones, Kindles, iPads etc., adding incentive to get as many of them connected by wire if I can. Lowest ping and highest responsiveness would be nice. There will be simultaneous HD video streams and Xbox Live gaming operating. Would I be best served continuing to use the current setup I have, with that equipment? Or should I be looking at something like those Ubiquity things in the OP? Also, is there a smart home thread? I'll not be able to afford a ton of poo poo to be installed in the house from the outset, but I'd like to know going forward the easiest ways to get started. Thermostat controlled by mobile phone type stuff. Thanks for any input, kind people.
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Feb 28, 2018 00:22
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Hey guys. I got the Orbi RBK50 today. Already it’s taken my crap WiFi Network in my house and improved throughput speeds from a past best of 120 and past worst of like 12 (in my deadzones) to 290+ in the best spots and like 80+ in those past deadzones. So I am pleased. Still tinkering a bit with satellite placement. Does anyone here have one of these? It says it works out of the box with that “Circle from Disney” on a sticker on the box. I’m on the most current firmware for the Orbi. When I launch Circle it wants to check firmware and says I’m not on the right one. I googled around and I actually see vague mentions of a later numbered firmware with new features that may have gotten rolled back. Best guess is it rolled back and Circle doesn’t work for now? Just curious if anyone knew what was up.  [Ed] that does seem to be the issue. Rollback to firmware without Circle. Feenix fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Mar 1, 2018 |
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Mar 1, 2018 05:02
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Feenix posted:Hey guys. I got the Orbi RBK50 today. Already it’s taken my crap WiFi Network in my house and improved throughput speeds from a past best of 120 and past worst of like 12 (in my deadzones) to 290+ in the best spots and like 80+ in those past deadzones. Mine is running firmware version 2.1.2.18 and Disney Circle is available, but I'm not using it. I purchased mine last April and did have an issue with the first firmware update out of the box and had to manually update it. I found a thread in the Netgear forums that indicated other people were having the same issue. After the first update it has never had an issue with the new versions as they have come out.
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Mar 1, 2018 14:05
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WattsvilleBlues posted:In my current home I have the BT Openreach white box thing (the modem?), coupled with an Asus RT-AC87U. If you're happy with the coverage you have now, you should be fine with your current equipment. If you haven't had your cabling run yet, make sure that you get multiple cables run to each location, back to a central box. That way you can have one larger central switch and fewer small switches when you need several devices wired in a single location, such as at the TV, or home office. If you find you need more wireless coverage, then you can pick up a few Ubiquiti APs to supplement or replace the wireless in your current router. Home automation thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635963
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Mar 1, 2018 16:25
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n0tqu1tesane posted:If you're happy with the coverage you have now, you should be fine with your current equipment. If you haven't had your cabling run yet, make sure that you get multiple cables run to each location, back to a central box. That way you can have one larger central switch and fewer small switches when you need several devices wired in a single location, such as at the TV, or home office. Thanks for the tips. Would it be more cost effective to have 1 ethernet cable to each room then break off into switches? Just thinking of the cost of the cable length.
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Mar 2, 2018 00:36
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It's as much work to pull one cable as it is to pull a bundle of six. Cable is cheaper than extra switches, and you can put non-network stuff over a cable (HD video senders etc.). Always pull in more cable than you think you need, even if you just leave it coiled up behind the faceplate to avoid having to buy more keystones than you need.
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Mar 2, 2018 00:46
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So I have the Orbi RBK50 (1 satellite) and my house is, oh I don’t know... 2500 sqft. (Plaster and lathe, btw) Downstairs where my router is, I am now getting like 300Mbps. Which is verrrrry nice. However, upstairs, no matter where I place the satellite, some part of my house gets really low speeds. I know I shouldn’t put too much weight on Speedtest.net... but if I go in the back upstairs, the back gets like 150 and the front like 50-80. And vice versa if I place it in the front. I can’t decide if it’s more a matter of it not penetrating well enough, or the area being small enough that the phone connects to the basement instead of the satellite. [Ed] And then I run a Speedtest from one room away from the satellite and the download hovers under 10Mbps and then spikes at the end to 50 and has a 370ms Jitter. Feenix fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Mar 2, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 03:24
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Thanks Ants posted:It's as much work to pull one cable as it is to pull a bundle of six. Cable is cheaper than extra switches, and you can put non-network stuff over a cable (HD video senders etc.). Always pull in more cable than you think you need, even if you just leave it coiled up behind the faceplate to avoid having to buy more keystones than you need. What areHD video senders? Also, what kind of switch would I need coming out of my router to be able to multiply the ethernet cables into all the rooms?
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Mar 3, 2018 11:19
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WattsvilleBlues posted:What areHD video senders? The HD video senders he’s talking about are devices to send an HDMI signal long distances (like from a central media computer/room to a distant TV. If you have a single network/subnet, you just need simple unmanaged switches. If you want multiple VLANs/subnets on the same physical network connections, then you want managed switches. Whichever you get, be sure to grab one with enough ports.
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Mar 3, 2018 12:48
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smax posted:The HD video senders he’s talking about are devices to send an HDMI signal long distances (like from a central media computer/room to a distant TV. So something like this? TP-LINK TL-SG108 8 Port Metal Gigabit Ethernet Switch https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00A121WN6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IAWMAbSA3AZCJ
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Mar 3, 2018 21:34
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WattsvilleBlues posted:So something like this? Should work just fine as long as you don’t need any more advanced functions like VLAN tagging or PoE. Generally speaking for home use, dumb switches are all about the same, only distinguished by number of ports and appearance/construction. As long as it’s gigabit, you should be good to go.
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Mar 3, 2018 22:39
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smax posted:Should work just fine as long as you don’t need any more advanced functions like VLAN tagging or PoE. Cheers everyone. I don't know what VLAN or PoE is so I probably don't need those. How's this sound: router in hallway, ethernet cable out of the router into the 8 way switch, from there into the walls into the rooms. Yeah?
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Mar 3, 2018 23:55
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Cheers everyone. I don't know what VLAN or PoE is so I probably don't need those. Yep, that's all it takes. Dumb (unmanaged) switches are just plug and play.
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Mar 4, 2018 01:05
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So basically, I’ve been trying to figure this out on my own and using google but I’ve got a few questions for you guys because I can’t get a solid answer to some of the questions I have. After a couple days of troubleshooting and much learning, I got my asus AC66U properly configured into access point mode on my CODA4562 modem. I have the AC66U running in the administrator access point mode, with a static IP set at 192.168.0.202(modems gateway is .0.x and the DHCP range is 10-200) and the DHCP reserved on my modem. Before I had it set up as an access point and it was technically connecting but I couldn’t see it as a connected device on my CODA nor could I access it’s settings when plugged into my computer through ethernet. Anyways, I got that mostly sorted out and like I said, have it set up with a static IP on the same gateway as my main modem, turned on access point mode, disabled WPS, and arranged it so that my CODAs 2.4ghz channel is 1 whereas the ASUS is assigned to 11. Reserved the DHCP for the static IP on my CODA as well, but I’m wondering if there’s anything else I should do to make sure it’s running properly? Also, I have it connected from the WAN port to a LAN port on the back of the CODA, I’m assuming that’s the way it’s supposed to be laid but I’ve seen a lot of conflicting information on that. That leads me to the questions I have. My modem is currently in the front of my house, in the basement. I want wifi in my backyard, and I also want to have at least one Ethernet jack available in my living room for my PS4. My plan/set up was to have ethernet running from my room(the room with the modem) to the living room(closest to the backyard/back of the house, also in the basement) and plugged into this router. However I’m not sure how much power the signal will still have after traveling 30-40 feet and through two walls(garage wall and basement foundation wall) using the router. It would be placed right next to my window and hard wired with Ethernet to the main modem. Would it be easier/smarter/better/any of the above to use a dedicated access point rather than a router running in access point mode? How do you guys feel about that in general? Am I losing any Ethernet connection speed/latency by having my PS4->router->modem rather than just PS4->modem? And how viable would a powerline adapter be to replace the physical Ethernet cable I have running from my room to the living room? The length of the cable is probably 100 feet from modem to router/PS4. Not sure exactly what the wiring set up is like behind the walls but I’m pretty sure my wiring is updated/not old as gently caress
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Mar 4, 2018 06:31
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I apologize for the wall of text/any dumb questions and just generally being a rookie to this stuff, but it’s actually cool to learn and I know you guys will be able to help me better than some guy on the Rogers forums.
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Mar 4, 2018 07:01
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I also wanted to ask about upgrading the antennas on the AC66U if I do keep it or if I should replace it with a newer model router.
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Mar 4, 2018 09:48
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smax posted:Yep, that's all it takes. Dumb (unmanaged) switches are just plug and play. Smashing, thank you kind people.
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Mar 4, 2018 12:18
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I've read the OP and the last few pages and have a couple of questions. I live in a 'normal-sized' house. There's a Billion 8800NL upstairs where the 80/20 fibre arrives. Wi-Fi signal is 'fine' but not great in the living room. I've got a Chromecast in the TV and it's not always great at staying connected. My changes are mainly to fix that, although improving the WiFi signal in the house + garden will be a nice consequence. The only internet connections that are wired in the house are a Pi (sat next to the router to act as a media server) and a Powerline 200 which sends ethernet to the TV box in the living room. In the OP I see love for Ubiquiti, and they look nice but possibly overkill. My idea is to pick up a TP-Link 1200 and plug it in downstairs. This should hopefully lead to a stronger signal. Am I right in thinking that it will basically boost the Wi-Fi signal and so devices will seamlessly work whether they are receiving the original signal from the router, or the one from that plug? I'd much rather a mesh network like that than a new separate WiFi network being created. It seems much easier to set up and half the price of a Ubiquiti solution. If my understanding of the Ubiquiti solution is right, I'd need to connect it to the router using ethernet cable which, unless it would be that much stronger than my router itself that I can just place it next to the router, would mean trailing a piece of cable around the house. I'd love my ignorance shot down if I'm wrong on any of these parts.
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Mar 4, 2018 14:48
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Wi-Fi repeaters are poo poo, and aren't a true mesh as they don't do any roaming stuff. There's a bunch of mesh products aimed at the consumer market for this task, look at the TP Link Deco, Google Wi-Fi and BT Whole Home Wi-Fi. Cheapest option is probably the twin pack of BT access points - you plug one into your router after disabling the Wi-Fi on it, and the second box links wirelessly to the first.
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Mar 4, 2018 14:54
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Thanks Ants posted:Wi-Fi repeaters are poo poo, and aren't a true mesh as they don't do any roaming stuff. What's the advantage of that over the Ubiquiti solution from the OP? Is it simply ease-of-installation? Do Ubiquiti wireless link?
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Mar 4, 2018 16:02
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Sad Panda posted:I've read the OP and the last few pages and have a couple of questions. Pretty much a similar case as mine, posted one or two above yours. Would love to hear some more advice on this from people smarter/more experienced than me when it comes to these things
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Mar 4, 2018 16:47
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Sad Panda posted:What's the advantage of that over the Ubiquiti solution from the OP? Is it simply ease-of-installation? Do Ubiquiti wireless link? The advantage is that you don't need to run an ethernet cable between it and your router or switch. The Ubiquiti will always work better though.
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Mar 5, 2018 04:10
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Do modern Powerline adapters handle passing through a circuit breaker better than the old ones? I have an older Homeplug AV (200mbps)-based Powerline adapter set and it worked fine at my old place. In my new apartment though the speed varies anywhere from 2mbps-40mbps but usually around 25mbps, dropping during noisier times. I tried other outlets in other rooms and ones that do not pass through a circuit breaker would get 80mbps+ with no problem. Unfortunately with my current set up passing through the circuit breaker is unavoidable - I've tried every outlet in the PC room just in case some bizarre 70's wiring would solve my problem but no luck. I don't want to go out and spend $60+ on a new Powerline set and end up frustrated with poor performance. It's for a gaming PC so I'd prefer not going wireless because latency and zero packet loss is important. edit: well bit the bullet because I am getting 6mbits today.. will see how it goes in a few edit2: up to 20mbits with an AV2 1000. I mean it's an improvement at least. I seriously have no idea why the performance in this apartment is so bad, unless it's literally the 80+ wifi networks within range also causing noise with the powerlines too. I think I'm just going to have to pay Comcast to come out and install an outlet so I can move the cable modem. edit3: lol I was back down to 11mbits even on the new adapter. Then I thought to check the opposite side of the wall of the outlet I am using, in the other room. a laptop charger was plugged in. I unplugged it and everything immediately went to 80mbits/second. Powerline is the loving weirdest thing. Alpha Mayo fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 09:02
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Powerline adapters have a variety of different codecs that they switch between based on how much noise there is on the line, so if you're getting poor performance then it can definitely be connected to having a device on the same circuit as the sending or receiving end that's putting out interference. They have a lot of tricks to cope with the fact that power lines are fundamentally not a great data transmission medium, especially going through a circuit breaker on each side.
Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 6, 2018 02:32
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Assuming the internet connection behind it is full gigabit and the router is handling at full gigabit, and that my client device is reasonably positioned to use 5GHZ , what is the actual, real world speeds I should expect from a Unifi AP AC Lite?
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Mar 6, 2018 15:51
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emocrat posted:Assuming the internet connection behind it is full gigabit and the router is handling at full gigabit, and that my client device is reasonably positioned to use 5GHZ , what is the actual, real world speeds I should expect from a Unifi AP AC Lite? The Lite tops out at 867Mbps, so that bottleneck would be max theoretical of about 100MB/s. Actual will depend on lots of thing like the client's strength, etc. I've done iperf tests within my home network under similar conditions you're describing and seen 80+ MB/s, so fairly close to theoretical max (20% less) is certainly possible.
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Mar 6, 2018 16:20
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thiazi posted:The Lite tops out at 867Mbps, so that bottleneck would be max theoretical of about 100MB/s. Actual will depend on lots of thing like the client's strength, etc. I've done iperf tests within my home network under similar conditions you're describing and seen 80+ MB/s, so fairly close to theoretical max (20% less) is certainly possible. I've never seen more than 40MB/s on mine.
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Mar 6, 2018 16:36
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edit. Misread. I get about 250mbps on mine right now. I have channel width at 80 and an pretty clear channel. Any suggestions to tweak?
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Mar 6, 2018 16:48
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redeyes posted:I've never seen more than 40MB/s on mine. I get 80-100Mbps with the Lite depending on where I am and what I am using. Thats pretty close to maxing out our line, which is 100 up/down FiOS from Frontier. It even has a line issue restricting it to 100FD instead of the full 1000 the other connected items get (from the router, not FiOS).
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Mar 6, 2018 17:50
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El Jebus posted:I get 80-100Mbps with the Lite depending on where I am and what I am using. Thats pretty close to maxing out our line, which is 100 up/down FiOS from Frontier. It even has a line issue restricting it to 100FD instead of the full 1000 the other connected items get (from the router, not FiOS). Uh, well I'm talking 40MB/s which is like 350mbps. That is actual transfer speeds from computer to computer, not the connection speed which usually hovers from 700-800mpbs.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:02
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redeyes posted:Uh, well I'm talking 40MB/s which is like 350mbps. That is actual transfer speeds from computer to computer, not the connection speed which usually hovers from 700-800mpbs. Ah, sorry. Read that as 40Mbps.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:15
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No one has any input on my access point/backyard/ac66u questions or am I just being too impatient?
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Mar 6, 2018 20:29
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I was also wondering if I could plug in one of those USB antennas into the back of my router and have it operate as a “fourth” antenna on top of the 3 already coming out of the router?
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Mar 7, 2018 09:50
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Bob NewSCART posted:I was also wondering if I could plug in one of those USB antennas into the back of my router and have it operate as a “fourth” antenna on top of the 3 already coming out of the router? no
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Mar 7, 2018 14:01
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Bob NewSCART posted:No one has any input on my access point/backyard/ac66u questions or am I just being too impatient? your post is all over the place. how is the ac66u connected to your first router, and is the ac66u's DHCP turned off?
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Mar 7, 2018 15:19
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underage at the vape shop posted:So, at this new house, we have plugs in the wall. But there doesn't seem to be an ovious place that they all end. Is there any way to figure that out without following it through the wall/roof? FWIW my new house was wired with Cat6 in several rooms, most of them were terminated for use with a phone while one location was actually wired for ethernet. All of the wires ran through the house and then to the outside of the house for connection for the ISP/Phone/Cable company. I rewired all the jacks with rj45 keystones and then pulled the wire in from outside into the garage and connected it all up to a router. I've seen other newer houses where all the lines terminate in the laundry room into a box where lines from outside and inside wiring meet. The point is they end up some where, and if there were a specific location with a patch panel or something someone wouldn't have mentioned it.
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Mar 7, 2018 17:17
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This, and also it wouldn't really help much of anything even if it could. Turning a single access point into an ever-more-Lovecraftian horror is less effective than just placing more / smaller access points around the area you want to cover.
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