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 I used these, with some thinner from the same brand, on the plastic models from the Dark Imperium set.
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Mar 4, 2018 16:39
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Suggestion 1: shake the hell out of acrylic paints, especially primers. Suggestion 2: airbrushed layers of paint can be extremely thin, and therefore fragile. Be careful handling them before varnishing. Feel free to share some pics of your process, and the results! Edit: I have been really impressed with the Mig products I own. Try to find brand specific tutorials on YouTube, perhaps? dexefiend fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Mar 4, 2018 |
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Mar 4, 2018 17:08
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Also note that just because the paint is dry to the touch does not mean the paint is completely dried and has reached it final strength. In my experience this goes doubly for the Vallejo primers and anything using their airbrush thinner. I suspect it would be similar for AK stuff. My general rule of thumb is that i try to give airbrushed stuff 24 hours or until it doesn't smell of airbrush thinner anymore before i do anything but the most careful handling.
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Mar 4, 2018 17:41
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If the primer itself is rubbing off down to bare plastic, you either haven't used enough or the brand is not very good. I had this problem with Badger stynylrez until I realized I was just not layering enough on there and now it is nearly bullet proof.
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Mar 4, 2018 18:02
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What are people using these days to hold their Miniatures? BlueTac and old medicine/old paint bottles?
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Mar 4, 2018 21:20
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The citadel
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Mar 4, 2018 21:25
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I tend to rely on the old cork-and-bluetac method, largely because A) I live not far from American Science & Surplus, who always have plus-sized corks, and B) the Citadel Pear of Anguish is never in stock in the local GW stores either. For group priming, I've found myself leaning on free wooden paint stirring sticks from the hardware stores, holding a row of minis in place with bluetac. (Once I was priming a row of minis with solid bases, which I glued in place with wood glue. Never do this.)
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Mar 4, 2018 21:35
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Groetgaffel posted:The citadel It's good but not great. I still prefer using an empty pill bottle with some loose change in it, and the mini stuck to the top with poster tack. I can keep multiple painting projects on those holders ready to go whenever. Corks are good too but a little small for my hands. The buttplug is useful for heavier minis but almost everything I paint is plastic.
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Mar 4, 2018 21:36
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Main downside of the pear of anguish is that it grabs the edge of the base. I like to paint my base rim at the end of painting the model but before the varnish.
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Mar 4, 2018 23:12
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Daemonqueller posted:What are people using these days to hold their Miniatures? BlueTac and old medicine/old paint bottles? These are rad: https://www.pk-pro.de/Miniature-Holders-Grips-V3 (I have the v2).
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Mar 4, 2018 23:41
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Daemonqueller posted:What are people using these days to hold their Miniatures? BlueTac and old medicine/old paint bottles? I put steel washers in the base of my miniatures for storage and transports, but also because it means I can take a piece of cork with magnetic sheeting glued to it and use it as a mounting point. I used to use BlueTac but the stuff I had went bad (it was probably a decade old) and would stick to everything. 
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Mar 4, 2018 23:49
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Did some terrain today.    
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Mar 4, 2018 23:55
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Avenging Dentist posted:These are rad: https://www.pk-pro.de/Miniature-Holders-Grips-V3 (I have the v2). I was looking at these, but I have no idea what it cost to get one in the US. Seems like I could just make something similar for what it would be. Funzo fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 01:14
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Funzo posted:I was looking at these, but I have no idea what it cost to get one in the US. Seems like I could just make something similar for what it would be. It's like $30 shipping, but I ordered mine with a bunch of other stuff, so it amortizes out.
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Mar 5, 2018 01:21
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Vallejo Gloss and Matte Varnish? What is the thread favorite for airbrush
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Mar 5, 2018 03:05
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Zuul the Cat posted:Did some terrain today. What's the process you used for the crates and barrels? I've got a set I need to get around to painting.
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Mar 5, 2018 04:25
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Funzo posted:I was looking at these, but I have no idea what it cost to get one in the US. Discount Games Inc is carrying them now in the US.
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Mar 5, 2018 04:48
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DiscountGamesInc carries the holders (the cork and metal bar to rest your finger on), but not the wooden grips
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Mar 5, 2018 05:00
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MasterSlowPoke posted:What's the process you used for the crates and barrels? I've got a set I need to get around to painting. Super quick and easy on them. Crates were Caliban Green, Nuln Oil Wash, Warboss Green drybrush, then MIG light rust weathering pigment. Barrels were Mephiston Red, Nuln Oil, Evil Sunz Scarlet, MIG light rust.
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Mar 5, 2018 05:04
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goodness posted:Vallejo Gloss and Matte Varnish? What is the thread favorite for airbrush I do straight Liquitex.
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Mar 5, 2018 05:37
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I do straight Liquitex. Thanks, and is gloss varnish before matte necessary? Why would gloss be a stronger varnish
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Mar 5, 2018 06:05
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goodness posted:Thanks, and is gloss varnish before matte necessary? Why would gloss be a stronger varnish I've always heard it that gloss creates more of a shell around the model. It's been my experience that gloss then matte over a metal model is much more chipping resistant than just 2 coats of matte. For plastic, you probably just need a coat of matte varnish unless you're really going to be abusing them.
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Mar 5, 2018 06:23
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goodness posted:Thanks, and is gloss varnish before matte necessary? Why would gloss be a stronger varnish Matte varnish works by creating a microscopically rough coat, while gloss varnish does the opposite and tries to make as smooth a surface as possible. As part of doing that, it makes a more durable surface both because it's thicker and because it removes anything that can be snagged to start damage.
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Mar 5, 2018 07:16
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Astraeus finished! This was a bit of a slog, I pre-ordered it when it released and built it fairly quickly, but then had it sitting around primed and untouched for a few months. I'm not a fan of the base, its slightly angled so you can rotate it to get a different angle, but I'd really prefer if it was just flat. I threw the biggest magnets I had in there to hold it together, but they're not really quite strong enough. Oh well, its functional enough.    
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Mar 5, 2018 08:17
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Booley posted:Astraeus finished! This was a bit of a slog, I pre-ordered it when it released and built it fairly quickly, but then had it sitting around primed and untouched for a few months. I'm not a fan of the base, its slightly angled so you can rotate it to get a different angle, but I'd really prefer if it was just flat. I threw the biggest magnets I had in there to hold it together, but they're not really quite strong enough. Oh well, its functional enough. Knock it off, you're making my grey plastic marines feel bad. Seriously though, that's gorgeous.
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Mar 5, 2018 08:27
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Along with the other gorgeous stuff (goddamnit Booley) I humbly submit my Eldar fleet as a cross-post. Throw-back three-days-before-Thursday. I finished my 1,500 Eldar fleet re-paint ahead of Adepticon. Techinically I still need to write the (Tolkien) names on the bases, but it's otherwise done. I have three more boards for display boards that I might run some different styles as well because I'm not completely thrilled with this one, but meh. Still gotta paint 5 bikes and based like 40 dudes for my 40k army so it's bottom priority.      Can't wait to get utterly wrecked by 3-straight rounds of Necrons.
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Mar 5, 2018 20:44
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Boon posted:Along with the other gorgeous stuff (goddamnit Booley) I humbly submit my Eldar fleet as a cross-post.
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Mar 5, 2018 20:57
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Any recommendations for painting skin and faces? I'm really struggling painting them atm. Aare the reaper triads worth getting?
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Mar 5, 2018 21:30
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'll probably be playing across the aisle from you in the Epic tourney.  That's one game where I wish I had bought the models when I ahd the chance... then again even then it was hard to find opponents.
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Mar 5, 2018 21:31
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Boon posted:
Well, like BFG, there is a pretty strong community and plenty of proxies available. Where are you located? I know there are a few groups that have popped up recently.
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Mar 5, 2018 21:37
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gilljoy posted:Any recommendations for painting skin and faces? I'm really struggling painting them atm. Aare the reaper triads worth getting? I'm slowly getting better at skin and faces and just shared some recipes I've learned earlier if you'll let me copy paste! Booyah- posted:I don't know about Vallejo, but I've tried most of the citadel recipes and am by far happiest with kislev flesh and reikland flesh shade. By default I wash then clean up on the surface and that looks good for medium tone. For slightly darker tones I will wash and then shade the recesses directly with more wash. It also mixes well with a brighter white/bone color if you want to highlight it. Compared to others I've tried (bugmans, cadian fleshtone, etc.) I think it's the most natural look. In general I like the kislev flesh + wash + touchup best because the shading is very mild while still capturing depth. When I try to use schemes that build up from a darker base like bugman's glow, it never comes out right and the muscles look all weird. Faces and eyes I'm not nearly as comfortable with.
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Mar 5, 2018 21:50
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gilljoy posted:Any recommendations for painting skin and faces? I'm really struggling painting them atm. Aare the reaper triads worth getting? They work pretty well. If you do a search of my posts, I use the triads for most of my faces, so you can get an idea of how they work. I usually add in a wash as well. Often the GW Reikland Flesh Shade, but there are other ones as well. You can also mix your own wash.
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Mar 5, 2018 22:38
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Finally finished this guy after putting it off for months. (I may still add the blue glow to the taser lance but I wanted to just get it assembled.) I've kind of discovered that I hate painting all of the tubing and filigree on these models, not because it looks bad but since I can't be precise I find it really stressful somehow. As I finish my rangers I'll work on easier ways to paint the upper bodies that I don't dislike. 
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Mar 6, 2018 00:18
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All I have left is the transfers and weathering on this thing. Still not sure how much I want to weather it. Debating between minimal on the bottom track edges and beating the hell out of it. After all, it's been decades since the Sisters of Battle got reinforcements  
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Mar 6, 2018 03:52
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I also finished (kinda) this kit-bash today. It's a Skyrunner Autarch with Fusion Gun, Laser Lance, and Banshee Mask - the gradient becomes hard ot distinguish because I'm an awful model picture taker. I technically need to do the free-hand detailing on the hood and banners, but it's low priority until my other 4 bikers are finished before Adepticon.   
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Mar 6, 2018 04:37
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Getting back into 40k painting after years, looking at a parchment/sponge wet palette. How do they work with paints thinned to different consistencies? Does it maintain the thinning, add to it, slowly dry out?
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Mar 6, 2018 13:42
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Painting friends, I need advice from airbrush veterans. I'm learning to use my first one (H&S evolution, sparmaxx something compressor with tank) and I can't seem to stop clogging the drat gun. I'll get a few minutes of spraying out of it, then dried poo poo on the needle. What am I doing wrong? I always start with water, then flow improver, then paint This is a little aggravating :v
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Mar 6, 2018 17:01
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bird food bathtub posted:Getting back into 40k painting after years, looking at a parchment/sponge wet palette. How do they work with paints thinned to different consistencies? Does it maintain the thinning, add to it, slowly dry out? At least with my setup (two layers of paper towel between the sponge and the piece of parchment) it depends on the water level. If there's a lot of water in the container, water will seep in to the paint over time, diluting it slightly. I usually make sure that there's not so much water in the palette that the dilution is noticeable until after several hours/overnight. Sometimes if I haven't added water to the container for a few days there will be so little that the paint drys out after a few hours, so as soon as this starts happening I add more water.
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Mar 6, 2018 17:15
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Ayn Marx posted:Painting friends, I need advice from airbrush veterans. I'm learning to use my first one (H&S evolution, sparmaxx something compressor with tank) and I can't seem to stop clogging the drat gun. I'll get a few minutes of spraying out of it, then dried poo poo on the needle. What am I doing wrong? I always start with water, then flow improver, then paint Try messing around with your pressure settings, and make sure that the flow improver and paint are mixed together pretty well. Are you using airbrush paints or regular paints that are thinned? If it's the latter you'll want to experiment with some changes in consistency until you get it dialed in. I don't start with water or thinner; I just dump paint and thinner in the cup, mix it up, and then spray.
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Mar 6, 2018 17:44
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I don't use water at all for thinning with my airbrush or I still had dry tip problems. Vallejo flow improver is typically my go. Liquitex airbrush medium or Future if I need even lighter.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:41
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