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Scrapped it Godspeed viking chariot o7 Let me know if you need some 850 parts, I pulled a decent bit of stuff off before sending it down the river.
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Mar 5, 2018 07:07
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I was going to replace the idler arm in my e34's steering but apparently they have a one time use nut that didn't come with the arm. What's so special about this nut that makes it a one time use object? I see nothing that will lock on it.  E: Looks like the washer nut that air con compressors are held down with, nothing special but I don't want to take the risk. Oh well, I guess I'll have to wait. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 09:35
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The chamfered edge on that nut usually indicates that the nut has intentionally deformed threads that "lock" onto the shaft threads when installed (or sometimes the other way around).
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Mar 5, 2018 16:02
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Also known as Stover nuts. I think the nuts that hold my C10s control arms on are the same way. They take a lot of torque to remove right up until you get those top threads clear of the stud/bolt.
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Mar 5, 2018 21:54
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"Prevailing Torque" nuts is another name. Bolt Depot's got 'em with the flange in metric: https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_flange_nuts_prevailing_torque.aspx
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Mar 5, 2018 22:09
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Finished up the last two track days of the season this past weekend so I put together a list of poo poo I need to get done this summer in prep for next year Toss season old front pads and rotors since they are pretty much done 3D print front bumper brake ducts and route cooling Cut and weld harness bar an inch lower Valve stem seals AP2 transmission swap and ACT pressure plate / OEM clutch disk (170k on stock stuff that doesn't slip) New OEM coolant bottle Seal up area in front and beside the radiator to duct all air through the radiator Replace AEM intake air filter Replace rear diff fluid Order a containment seat for the driver side, move Sparco Evo to passenger side with new PCI fixed mount Add a 6pt harness on passenger side Get second set of wheels for 100TW tires, or pull the hard compound Hankook TDs I have three days on so I can run NASA time attack in the fall Rebuild shocks and get an alignment BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 22:57 on Mar 5, 2018 |
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Mar 5, 2018 22:54
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Put a shiny new brake master cylinder in the '87 Corolla so it's not quite so scary at stopping: One less rusty thing in the engine bay as well, which is nice:  Yuck. Replaced a toasted rear lower engine/trans mount in my wife's Kia Spectra5. The OEM mount was pricey, so I got an "Anchor" aftermarket unit. Yeah.  That's... not quite the same. Especially here:     You stupid fucks. Ran to O'Reilly's and got a pair of (three, actually) M10-1.25 x 50mm bolts. Spec is 60mm, but they'll do until I get the proper length I ordered in. Everyone local stops at 50mm, for some reason, besides dedicated bolt places that want to much money for just a couple of bolts. Ended up getting 5 from eBay for $10, which is still too much, IMHO. But 3 were $8, so, gently caress it. I didn't have any fine-threaded M10s anyway. I also had to grind the tube that goes through the center to make it fit in the engine-side bracket. Guess what brand I'm never buying again? (Anchor. The brand name was Anchor. What I'm saying is, based on this one pile of crap with crap fitment and, as Kastein pointed out, horrible welds, Anchor makes poo poo.) I guess I should be happy that the three bolt locations lined up with the actual holes, and the through bolt was in the right place once I made it short enough to actually go into the bracket. My guess is that Kia/Hyundai made a running design change to the 3 bolts all one length design to reduce parts count, and Anchor is too lazy to make two different mounts, or too stupid to realize that there *are* two different mounts. No idea if anyone is better at this point. Sunday started to flush the very murky/rusty coolant in the same Kia, but stopped when I noticed wetness around the top of the radiator, which, upon investigation, was coming from a crack in the (goddamned) plastic top tank running horizontally about 1/2" below the top of the tank. Thankfully the location of the crack means that most of the water stays in the rad, and the car is still drivable in the cooler weather until the new rad gets here on Tuesday (thanks, Amazon Prime!) Started taking apart the interior panels from the Carolla to replace the broken hardboard on them. See my AE86 thread for more detail. edit: yeah, that old engine mount was poop:   I plan to clean and degrease it, and try reinforcing it with polyurethane, as I posted about above regarding Powershift's bushing, as a spare for when the Anchor mount inevitably fails. The OEM one made it 130K miles, BTW. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 6, 2018 00:47
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Terrible Robot posted:Scrapped it What was the nail in the coffin? Body looks straight from that angle.
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Mar 6, 2018 00:48
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The anchor mounts are in fact poop. Yet we still have poo poo tons of them because they got relabelled into our new line and even if they ordered some in, its decent odds it'd be more anchor crap from the distribution center's stock.
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Mar 6, 2018 01:54
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My wife managed to crack the cartridge filter housing cap on her '06 Fusion today. Working theory is she went into a monster pothole (there's an access road behind her office that's a shortcut to home that the city doesn't maintain well) when she ran home for lunch, and the cap hit the road. She was at least aware enough to see a stream of oil on the ground when she got back and notified me so I stopped to check on the way home and found a huge puddle under the engine. Managed to change out the filter cap in place in her office parking lot, somehow it was only 3 quarts low. We had a refresher course on what to do if the oil pressure lamp comes on while driving - she said she never saw it and the engine seems to be OK so far.
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Mar 6, 2018 02:06
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Elmnt80 posted:The anchor mounts are in fact poop. Yet we still have poo poo tons of them because they got relabelled into our new line and even if they ordered some in, its decent odds it'd be more anchor crap from the distribution center's stock. I picked up an Anchor mount for the trans in the Nova. Whatever the O'reilly dude had in his computer as fitting my car was no good, though. Good thing I brought a bolt and a part number to confirm. It kills me that 'transmission' isn't an option in the computer seemingly anywhere. I'm pretty sure you could order that car with 4 different transmissions (depending on engine) but the only thing they can narrow it down by is engine. Took the Pep Boys manager a while to track down a filter and gasket for it when I was looking for one.
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Mar 6, 2018 02:55
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angryrobots posted:What was the nail in the coffin? Body looks straight from that angle. The body was in great shape. The engine ate an exhaust valve at 200k miles and when I opened it up I discovered evidence of severe neglect from the POs, and didn't have the money for a new engine or space to do the swap so it got parked, for a couple years. Then a tree branch fell on it and took out the rear hatch glass, and I had to move and it got stashed at Adiabatic's place for far longer than I wanted it to be. That plus the fact that it was in pretty heavy maintenance debt in general and that I have too many projects as it is, and I could literally go out and buy one in better condition for less than it would cost to fix that one...yeah. I stripped it of everything of value and cut my losses. I've got a 240 wagon and a C70 coupe to sate my Volvo lust for a while still. Also Anchor mounts are absolute loving garbage in every way, I have never had a good experience with them. From the front engine mount on the Celica becoming a twice a year thing because their rubber is more like foam, to the transmission mount for the subaru being made as an exact mirror of the actual part...yeah Anchor can go jump off a cliff into an acid pit of razorblades as far as I'm concerned.
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Mar 6, 2018 03:53
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I picked up an Anchor mount for the trans in the Nova. Whatever the O'reilly dude had in his computer as fitting my car was no good, though. Good thing I brought a bolt and a part number to confirm. It kills me that 'transmission' isn't an option in the computer seemingly anywhere. I'm pretty sure you could order that car with 4 different transmissions (depending on engine) but the only thing they can narrow it down by is engine. Took the Pep Boys manager a while to track down a filter and gasket for it when I was looking for one. Nope. At most we bring up every option for a car and can read the notes on each option. Its not a good system, but seems to be fairly standard across all the parts stores. vOv
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Mar 6, 2018 04:06
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Terrible Robot posted:Also Anchor mounts are absolute loving garbage in every way, I have never had a good experience with them. From the front engine mount on the Celica becoming a twice a year thing because their rubber is more like foam, to the transmission mount for the subaru being made as an exact mirror of the actual part...yeah Anchor can go jump off a cliff into an acid pit of razorblades as far as I'm concerned. slow_is_fast bought anchor brand engine mounts for one of his subarus once. I was installing them, not only were the threads painted, they were the wrong thread pitch. I put the stock nuts on with the impact anyway, sorry next owner 
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Mar 6, 2018 12:50
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Haha, loving anchor mounts. I bought those for my XJ and guess what, the bushing center sleeve is TOO SHORT and I had to stack washers, and the rubber is trash, poorly molded, and poorly bonded to the metal. Their XJ trans mounts are just as bad. I have no idea how that crew of execrable shitweasels stay in business but I hope they all drown in a porta potty fire. Making poo poo parts that don't fit and you only find out when you're up to your nuts in an engine bay is a serious dick move. They're so reliably wrong and poo poo that if anchor is my only option, I look for undamaged OEM ones on the ground at the junkyard if I need one.
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Mar 6, 2018 15:09
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kastein posted:They're so reliably wrong and poo poo that if anchor is my only option, I look for undamaged OEM ones on the ground at the junkyard if I need one. Yuuuupp. Last I checked they are the only source for mounts for my Celica now unless I want to spend $$ on polyurethane ones. I’m going to make my own probably, same result for half the price. It’s astonishing that Anchor remains in business after over a decade of selling utter garbage. I’ve never heard anyone with a good word for them.
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Mar 6, 2018 15:38
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Anchor's mounts for the V8 WJ don't even have the holes drilled in the right place. I honestly don't know how that company stays in business.
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Mar 6, 2018 15:55
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Are you trying to tell us that this phrase from Anchor's website is misleading?
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Mar 6, 2018 16:04
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C-Bangin' it 
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Leading supplier at least can be accurate. Walmart's Great Value toilet paper manufacturer (Clearwater Paper) makes 40% of their toilet paper and is a leading supplier worldwide. Doesn't mean it's quality
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Mar 6, 2018 16:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anchor's mounts for the V8 WJ don't even have the holes drilled in the right place. I honestly don't know how that company stays in business. I think they're trying to corner the coveted "no repeat customers" market. There are 7.4 billion people on this planet, if you sell each of them 3 or 4 mounts once, you can survive
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Mar 6, 2018 16:39
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I put two of those pieces of poo poo in my Saturn, got about 20k miles out of each. Thanks for the reminder assholes.
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Mar 6, 2018 16:55
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I picked up an Anchor mount for the trans in the Nova. Whatever the O'reilly dude had in his computer as fitting my car was no good, though. Good thing I brought a bolt and a part number to confirm. It kills me that 'transmission' isn't an option in the computer seemingly anywhere. I'm pretty sure you could order that car with 4 different transmissions (depending on engine) but the only thing they can narrow it down by is engine. Took the Pep Boys manager a while to track down a filter and gasket for it when I was looking for one. No disrespect, I'm genuinely curious. But why pick up a mount at O'reilly's instead of Amazon Prime, or Ebay? I understand in some cases that you need something NOW, and Prime's free overnite, or free 2-day shipping still takes too long for some situations... But is there any other reason I'm missing? With Amazon/Ebay you're going in with your own part number and info about your car, instead of relying on an O'reilly store associate to give you a *possibly* incorrect part. (Wouldn't be the employee's fault, just their computer part network)
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Mar 6, 2018 17:42
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Dennis McClaren posted:No disrespect, I'm genuinely curious. But why pick up a mount at O'reilly's instead of Amazon Prime, or Ebay? I was putting my poo poo back together and wanted to get it done then so I wouldn't forget about it. I had a part number that looked good based on pics I'd seen online and I had the fasteners to verify. Had some other poo poo to go run out and do that day so I just put it on my list of stops. Easy verification that it was what I needed, too. Guy handed me what the computer said would fit -> tried bolt -> no worky. Gave me the part based on the number I'd found -> tried bolt -> great success. No waiting for a potentially incorrect part.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:37
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I was putting my poo poo back together and wanted to get it done then so I wouldn't forget about it. I had a part number that looked good based on pics I'd seen online and I had the fasteners to verify. Had some other poo poo to go run out and do that day so I just put it on my list of stops. Easy verification that it was what I needed, too. Guy handed me what the computer said would fit -> tried bolt -> no worky. Gave me the part based on the number I'd found -> tried bolt -> great success. No waiting for a potentially incorrect part. And hence the #1 thing I hate about part stores. I'll go in and say (after checking their website to make sure it is in stock) a Felpro gasket # for a thermostat housing. No, let's go through the song and dance and picking the vehicle. Napa excluded from rant.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:54
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Dennis McClaren posted:No disrespect, I'm genuinely curious. But why pick up a mount at O'reilly's instead of Amazon Prime, or Ebay? Sometimes you need to get to work tomorrow. Other times it's the weekend and you're sick of this poo poo being broken in your garage and you want it to move again at any cost. Maybe (god forbid) you got roped into fixing a family/friend car and you don't really give a poo poo what happens as long as it rolls out ASAP.
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Mar 6, 2018 19:14
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Colostomy Bag posted:And hence the #1 thing I hate about part stores. I'll go in and say (after checking their website to make sure it is in stock) a Felpro gasket # for a thermostat housing. No, let's go through the song and dance and picking the vehicle. Napa excluded from rant. I went into napa once and asked for mercedes air cleaner mounts. Without looking at the computer, the guy said "we don't have that, i've been selling parts for 30 years and never sold one of those." So I took out my phone, went to napaonline and found the loving part number for him. They had 3 in stock... So napa can be idiots, too. Another time my girlfriend was in town anyway, asked her to drop by napa and grab me a h6024 sealed beam. You know, the ones they've been making for the last 80 years. Guy asked her what car it was for... Fortunately the customer behind her said "dude, it's a loving light bulb, they've been making them since world war 2, just grab one off the shelf"
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Mar 6, 2018 19:19
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I love that seemingly half the car club dudes I know have worked at the local parts chains for the last decade. If I absolutely need something in the next hour I have like three personal cellphones I can ring to get a part. I'm also enrolled in Advance's commercial program because of how much shadetree work I do. Still lowest tier, but most of the staff know me by sight, and they're always willing to help. Maybe I'm just lucky to have an excellent staff at my store.
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Mar 6, 2018 19:30
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Colostomy Bag posted:And hence the #1 thing I hate about part stores. I'll go in and say (after checking their website to make sure it is in stock) a Felpro gasket # for a thermostat housing. No, let's go through the song and dance and picking the vehicle. Napa excluded from rant. Yeah, I always try to get a part # when I can, but it's a crapshoot on whether or not the counter monkey can actually make that part appear.
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Mar 6, 2018 19:43
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I bought new wheels and tires a couple weeks ago. I got them as a package already mounted/balanced with TPMS sensors. The front had a little bit of wobble when you got above 50 mph (not bad, you could just feel some vibration in the wheel), and the driver's side rear tire was slowly leaking. I took it into my local tire shop to have it addressed. The driver's rear was leaking from the stem. They pulled off the tire, and the TPMS sensor had silicone globbed all over it. It was still leaking. They tried to put a grommet/seal kit on it, but it was still leaking. I had to buy another TPMS sensor to fix the problem. Pride in craftsmanship isn't something the seller I got them from believes in, I guess.
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Mar 6, 2018 19:51
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Replaced the spark plugs wires, rotor and distributor cap in my 1995 Corolla. They were pretty bad... I don't know if it's in my head, but it feels a little peppier now. Either way, that won't be the cause of a breakdown. Also finally got a washer fluid reservoir for it, but the connector doesn't fit the motor it shipped with. Stupid lying website. So I used my slightly smaller original pump motor and sealed the gaps with RTV. Hoping it holds up.
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Mar 6, 2018 19:59
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EvilBeard posted:I bought new wheels and tires a couple weeks ago. I got them as a package already mounted/balanced with TPMS sensors. The front had a little bit of wobble when you got above 50 mph (not bad, you could just feel some vibration in the wheel), and the driver's side rear tire was slowly leaking. I took it into my local tire shop to have it addressed. The driver's rear was leaking from the stem. They pulled off the tire, and the TPMS sensor had silicone globbed all over it. It was still leaking. They tried to put a grommet/seal kit on it, but it was still leaking. I had to buy another TPMS sensor to fix the problem. Pride in craftsmanship isn't something the seller I got them from believes in, I guess. Did you buy these new? Where from? Doxx that poo poo
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Mar 6, 2018 20:28
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chrisgt posted:I went into napa once and asked for mercedes air cleaner mounts. Without looking at the computer, the guy said "we don't have that, i've been selling parts for 30 years and never sold one of those." No arguments there. When I go to Napa I hit up the "distribution center" for parts. Their ancillary stores are full of stuff rotting on the racks and whatever else. Whatever the case, they are all in a race to the bottom. All we have left is ourselves to share experiences.
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Mar 6, 2018 20:38
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Elmnt80 posted:The anchor mounts are in fact poop. Yet we still have poo poo tons of them because they got relabelled into our new line and even if they ordered some in, its decent odds it'd be more anchor crap from the distribution center's stock. Terrible Robot posted:Also Anchor mounts are absolute loving garbage in every way, I have never had a good experience with them. From the front engine mount on the Celica becoming a twice a year thing because their rubber is more like foam, to the transmission mount for the subaru being made as an exact mirror of the actual part...yeah Anchor can go jump off a cliff into an acid pit of razorblades as far as I'm concerned. chrisgt posted:slow_is_fast bought anchor brand engine mounts for one of his subarus once. I was installing them, not only were the threads painted, they were the wrong thread pitch. I put the stock nuts on with the impact anyway, sorry next owner kastein posted:Haha, loving anchor mounts. I bought those for my XJ and guess what, the bushing center sleeve is TOO SHORT and I had to stack washers, and the rubber is trash, poorly molded, and poorly bonded to the metal. Their XJ trans mounts are just as bad. IOwnCalculus posted:Anchor's mounts for the V8 WJ don't even have the holes drilled in the right place. I honestly don't know how that company stays in business. God dammit. Lesson learned. Colostomy Bag posted:And hence the #1 thing I hate about part stores. I'll go in and say (after checking their website to make sure it is in stock) a Felpro gasket # for a thermostat housing. No, let's go through the song and dance and picking the vehicle. Napa excluded from rant. Add the part(s) to a shopping list from the website, and send/take that to the store. They'll give you no argument, then. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 6, 2018 20:44
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Larrymer posted:Did you buy these new? Where from? Doxx that poo poo yes new. bigwheelsnyc.com (through ebay and paypal)
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Mar 6, 2018 21:20
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finished installing illuminated sills, need to adjust the wiring a bit for long term but looks decent. https://imgur.com/a/C4usG sorry about the potato pictures.
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Mar 7, 2018 01:01
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Beach Bum posted:Maybe I'm just lucky to have an excellent staff at my store. Bingo in one. I'm honestly just lucky my store gets some damned good applicants and we all bring out the best in each other. It'd honestly help if the basic counter jockey job paid better, but it doesn't. Its still a retail job and gets treated like it, despite being the kind of retail job where a specialized knowledge is a requirement of the job.
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Mar 7, 2018 01:17
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New rotors, but not new pads. The violent shaking when braking from highway speeds was enough to concern  my gf to order new rotors for me.  So slapped new rotors on, and noticed the ceramic pads are over half worn. Bit of a shock on that one, they're not that old (I don't think). I got nearly 70k out of the last set. I still have at least 10k out of these, but I think they only have about 25-30k on them. Old ones were wholesaler closeout "NASCAR (by Raybestos)" (TURN LEFT SOME MORE!) $6 pads from Rockauto, current ones are Wearever (Advance/Carquest private label) Gold ceramic pads. I honestly didn't think I'd own this car long enough to do a third brake job on it (first at a little under 100k, second around 170k). Took a quick glance at the rest of the front suspension (not too close, since I didn't have a jack stand, just a floor jack). Surprisingly, everything, even bushings, seem to be in okay shape (bushings aren't fantastic, but they still exist, with minor visible cracking). Not bad for 200k. It was so weird taking it up to highway speeds and laying into the brakes... and not having a tooth fall out from the shaking. Old rotors had about 100k on them (AC Delco's parts store line). New ones are Carquest/Advance's low end ones, but 2 rotors + 2 cans of brake cleaner (2 for 1 on brake cleaner right now) with a coupon, for in-store pickup, was $62. $5 more than ordering on Amazon and waiting a few days. Counter guy was also a Ionry guy, with a Redline with a few go-fast bits on it. He claimed 280 hp (they're ~200 stock), so it's probably 205-215 hp. Good looking car though... red quad coupe with Cobalt SS wheels, dropped a little.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Mar 7, 2018 |
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Mar 7, 2018 09:17
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:
I always felt like no pads last as long as the stock pads. I should really test this by buying what I think are the best pads on the market rather than the best value. Edit: same with wiper blades. Run the stock ones for three years then get ready to change them twice a year.
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Mar 8, 2018 02:25
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I've had the opposite. The last two cars I swapped out the factory pads on, the replacements lasted far longer - at least 2x. Possibly more because in the case of the MS3 I never went back in, and on the Honda the pads on it now have at least twice the mileage of the originals and still aren't worn out.
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Mar 8, 2018 03:27
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StormDrain posted:I always felt like no pads last as long as the stock pads. I should really test this by buying what I think are the best pads on the market rather than the best value. The last pads were Rockauto "wholesaler closeout" pads - "NASCAR by Raybestos" (TURN LEFT DALE, TURN LEFT! TURN LEFT SOME MORE!) for $6. I thought they were organics for that price, they wound up being ceramics. The current ones are Advance Auto/Carquest ceramics. I have no loving idea what pads it came with when I bought it, I just know they looked almost new. The rotors were trashed though, and I already had the $6 Dale turn LEFT!!1! pads when I replaced the rotors. Kinda kicking myself for not saving those pads; I'd put 20k+ on the car by then and they still looked new, so they were likely decent ceramic pads. IOwnCalculus posted:I've had the opposite. The last two cars I swapped out the factory pads on, the replacements lasted far longer - at least 2x. Possibly more because in the case of the MS3 I never went back in, and on the Honda the pads on it now have at least twice the mileage of the originals and still aren't worn out. Never had a chance to touch factory pads or shoes, but I've noticed that ever since I switched to ceramics, I get well over 50k (almost all city, almost all courier/delivery miles) out of them. At one point, I was getting ~15-20k out of organics. Pretty sure I have 100% original poo poo in the back (drums in the back) and I'm starting to get some grinding back there. This will probably be the first time I've ever touched factory original brakes. And I'm just assuming the rears are original, based on the miles the car had when I bought it (~60k, I'll break 200k in the next 2 days).
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Mar 8, 2018 08:56
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