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is the rostock max still the best delta printer?
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Mar 6, 2018 00:49
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Nephzinho posted:Is there really no 3rd party adapter to connect the xbox one kinect to a pc besides for an out of print adapter that goes for like $200? Friend gave me a kinect to use as a scanner, but gently caress if i can figure out how to get this thing connected for less than the cost of just buying an older model instead. You can modify the Kinect itself if you're handy with a soldering iron. Need a 12v power supply and a USB cable, doesn't look too hard.
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Mar 6, 2018 01:04
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After running into a small issue (thermistor settings where completely wrong, and thus the temps where nowhere near reality) Finally got to do my first (albeit small) print on the Duet.. Biggest difference by far is the noise. My Rostock is SOOOO much quieter now! Seriously I thought something was wrong! It moves with barely any stepper noise at all now. The heat break fan on the head is now the loudest part on the printer. The Rostock has always been a fairly noisy machine, I was considering some rubber mounts for the steppers to quiet it down, but don't need them now! In general it seems to move so much more fluid now. Being able to control the printer from anywhere is nice. The interface does resize itself appropriately on smaller screens. I had to change my workflow a bit. I have been using RepetierHost with the printer connected to USB. So instead I downloaded the standalone version of Slic3r. It will copy your settings from the Repetier included Slic3r. And it also has support for uploading directly to Duet. So workflow is now load part into Slic3r, change settings to suit, click Send To Printer button. The newly uploaded GCode file will appear on the Duet interface. Just select it for printing. Alternatively, Slic3r can be set to make the printer start the job soon as it is uploaded. I am happy with the upgrade so far. I may not spring for the PanelDue. I am considering just mounting a small 7" cheapo tablet to the front of the printer instead.
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Mar 6, 2018 05:30
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I got the dampers straight away when I built mine, so mine has always been quiet.
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Mar 6, 2018 07:33
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Apparently I suck at slicing. or the monoprice 3d delta community sucks at consolidating information(wiki, Reddit, fb!). I tried cura 3.0 and the profile off the wiki, but ended up with wispy prints, I’m told this is due to the filament not retracting enough before making large x/y movements. Is there a guide out there for how to make good files for printing stuff off thingiverse? The 3d printer makes a god awful amount of noise compared to the auto(cat) print that came on the SD card.
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Mar 6, 2018 17:45
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politicorific posted:Apparently I suck at slicing. I don't have power so I can't boot up my main PC which would let me check, but the guide for my maker select v2 suggested loading the gcode from one of the included sd card models and importing the settings from it into cura. I can't remember if that ability vanished from cura in 2.0 like some other things did, but I used the old version for a long time before I got my settings more dialed in. The delta may be too new to have good easy to find information sources yet, but if that trick still works I'd give it a shot. edit: I think what I did was told cura I had a prusa i3, then overrode the dimensions with my own for the build area, then loaded the gcode settings to override settings on top of that. Like I said, not sure if the new cura can still do that, unfortunately.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:19
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politicorific posted:Apparently I suck at slicing. 99% of the stuff that applies to slicing on any 3d printer applies to that little printer as well. And define "wispy", because fine "hairs" on a print are easily dealt with after printing. If you're printing something that is making large X/Y movements on a printer as small as that one is, maybe consider lowering the hotend temperature a little bit to decrease the ease that the filament has with oozing. Do it a few degrees at a time with test prints until you get the best result you can before the extruder starts skipping steps because there is too much back-pressure from the low melted temp of the filament. That, or really crank up the print speed. I got surprisingly good results telling that little printer to go 120mm/s just seeing how it would look compared to the standard 60mm/s.
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Mar 6, 2018 18:34
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n0tqu1tesane posted:You can modify the Kinect itself if you're handy with a soldering iron. Need a 12v power supply and a USB cable, doesn't look too hard. Guess I'll gift my brother's poorly equipped workshop an iron then.
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Mar 6, 2018 21:44
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Nephzinho posted:Guess I'll gift my brother's poorly equipped workshop an iron then. Here's a guide: https://imgur.com/a/e10dN
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Mar 6, 2018 23:41
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politicorific posted:Apparently I suck at slicing. Anything in particular you are trying to print? I have a v2 and have had great prints, but I use simplify 3d currently. You printing with PLA or PETG?
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Mar 7, 2018 14:26
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Here's a guide: https://imgur.com/a/e10dN All of that effort just to power? What moron designed that cable.
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Mar 7, 2018 14:37
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Nephzinho posted:All of that effort just to power? What moron designed that cable. A company that wanted to sell "Kinect for Windows" as a separate and more expensive product.
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Mar 7, 2018 16:07
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Well, it makes sense as a dedicated accessory for a game console, this way you only need one cable between the console and Kinect, and don't need a separate power adapter.
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Mar 7, 2018 16:20
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ClassH posted:Anything in particular you are trying to print? I have a v2 and have had great prints, but I use simplify 3d currently. You printing with PLA or PETG? New problem. I tried cura 15.04.06 along with the default robot and had no problem. The next day (a few hours ago) I tried a 2 part hanging dog model off thingiverse and the print head went slamming into the bed. There’s now an indentation there. PLA is fine. Slicing and controlling the drat thing so it doesn’t try to destroy itself is now the issue.
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Mar 8, 2018 20:17
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politicorific posted:New problem. I tried cura 15.04.06 along with the default robot and had no problem. The next day (a few hours ago) I tried a 2 part hanging dog model off thingiverse and the print head went slamming into the bed. There’s now an indentation there. I have a Monoprice Mini Delta (I think that's the same as you?). I've found the bed leveling best using G29 P6 Z0.3 in the startup gcode (this does a matrix of test-taps) rather than the default, which does a 0.8 mm negative offset at the centre (C-0.8). But yes, the community sucks, since it's mostly based around facebook, which is terrible for that kind of thing.
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Mar 8, 2018 20:48
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Hobnob posted:I have a Monoprice Mini Delta (I think that's the same as you?). I've found the bed leveling best using G29 P6 Z0.3 in the startup gcode (this does a matrix of test-taps) rather than the default, which does a 0.8 mm negative offset at the centre (C-0.8). But yes, the community sucks, since it's mostly based around facebook, which is terrible for that kind of thing. Have you done any manual leveling? I did see discussion on Reddit of tweaking the optical end stop sensors to get matching numbers from a G29 sequence (watching the G-code output) but I haven't tried that yet. Other than that, I think I'm using a very similar G29 string as you in Slic3r and it's working pretty well.
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Mar 8, 2018 21:30
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One Day Fish Sale posted:Have you done any manual leveling? I did see discussion on Reddit of tweaking the optical end stop sensors to get matching numbers from a G29 sequence (watching the G-code output) but I haven't tried that yet. Other than that, I think I'm using a very similar G29 string as you in Slic3r and it's working pretty well. Nope, I haven't done any hardware tweaking, since this is my first printer and things seem to be working ok for me. I have seen people reporting that manual leveling is necessary, but the defaults are working well enough at the moment.
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Mar 8, 2018 23:57
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Anyone got any tips for troubleshooting under extrusion? I assume it's either struggling to pull material (I've not printed a proper spool holder yet) or a clogged nozzle Either way, my last print had horizontal layers not sticking and was extruding inconsistently (but in a pattern weirdly)
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Mar 9, 2018 08:26
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Extruder gear stripping or just not tight enough? Also, maybe bump the temp up a couple degrees.
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Mar 9, 2018 09:13
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I turned the gear manually and it looked like it feeds ok. No gears missing thank god I was printing at 230 with PLA, but I'm worried its a bit hot. Ironically I was trying to print a temp tower to work out what was best when it went tits up
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Mar 9, 2018 09:47
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That's pretty hot for pla. Did you feel the filament to see if it had been stripped by the gear? Normally that leaves a ton of dust laying around but... It might be that it's too hot to push. I know flexible filament is a bastard to get the tension right. Maybe the temp was just too high? I'm really not incredibly knowledgeable about this kinda stuff though so I might be missing something obvious.
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Mar 9, 2018 11:03
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kaffo posted:Anyone got any tips for troubleshooting under extrusion? Check out the Simplify3D troubleshooting guide. On the software side, your filament diameter might be off, or your extrusion multiplier might be wrong. Hardware side, in addition to what Flanders said, your feed path might be introducing too much friction, your temp might be too low, your extruder may be clogged, or your speed might be too high for the nozzle. I think that’s all the possibilities but I’m sick so I may have missed some.
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Mar 9, 2018 14:41
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Well after some more time with the Duet I am loving it. Some additional observations, wall of text ahead. Everything Duet is well documented here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/ The PID algorithm seems to be much better than that on the Rambo, or at the very least its auto-tune is better. For my printer anyways. The Duet temp is much more stable. My Rambo board would oscillate back and forth around the target temp a lot by 1-3°. Turning a fan on would send it bouncing back and forth around the target temp for a several minutes. Even after some manual tweaking of the PID values. The Duet never goes more than .3-.5 out. It recovers back to target quickly and stays there. My first hurdle setting it up was the wifi password. You have to connect via USB/emulated serial and issue some M commands to give it your wifi SSID and password. (it uses a ESP8266 for Wifi) Once that is done then everything else is done from the web interface. The other hurdle I had was understanding the configuration system. It uses G code for everything. There are no firmware settings as it where. All configuration is M commands in text files on the SD card. If you use any M commands to change settings, you have to issue a M500 to save them, which writes the changed settings to a file "config-override.g" on the SD card. You have to make sure your config.g has a M501 command at the very end, which causes it to load your changes from the override file on boot and apply them. Other actions have a associated .g file. There is one for homing, bed probing, pausing, resuming, etc.. so you can basically write a macro for each of those actions. https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ will generate the needed configuration files for Duet. Thankfully you never have to remove the SD card from the printer for anything. The web interface has a text editor built in. You can edit any of the text files on the SD card easily. Slic3r supports directly uploading to the Duet. S3D can upload to Duet using a script and cURL to send the GCODE file via HTTP. Duet also supports FTP upload, though as of the latest firmware 1.20 this is currently broken. They have it fixed in the current 1.21 beta releases.
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Mar 10, 2018 07:02
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I think I may have fried some things when my heated bed shorted out. The PSU doesn't always power up when it's plugged in, even though it's getting voltage to the terminals. When it does work, the new heated bed is constantly on as soon as it gets power, and I can't shut it off. I think a new RAMPS board and PSU are in my future.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:07
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I'm in the process of designing my own printer and I'm looking for a lightweight extruder for 1.75mm. I have mostly used greg's wade extruder in the past, and they work great with the downside of being so massive. I guess the titan is the new hot thing now? I can't really justify in my head paying $60 for a dinky plastic injection molded extruder housing with no motor or hotend though. Are there printable variations on titan that anyone has used or recommends, which also take fairly common hardware in reprap style? e: Also I guess I'm looking for a short style nema17 motor to go with the extruder with sufficient torque after gearing. I have a bunch of spare nema17 motors but they are all basically max torque, 47mm case length which makes extruders quite heavy. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 10, 2018 |
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Mar 10, 2018 17:34
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Funzo posted:I think I may have fried some things when my heated bed shorted out. The PSU doesn't always power up when it's plugged in, even though it's getting voltage to the terminals. When it does work, the new heated bed is constantly on as soon as it gets power, and I can't shut it off. I think a new RAMPS board and PSU are in my future. Check if the mosfet wires are backwards, I made that mistake adding a mosfet board to my maker select, I had the wires reversed and it would start heating as soon as power was turned on. Not sure about the PSU, though.
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Mar 10, 2018 19:09
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peepsalot posted:I'm in the process of designing my own printer and I'm looking for a lightweight extruder for 1.75mm. I have mostly used greg's wade extruder in the past, and they work great with the downside of being so massive. I should also say I tried a bowden extruder with the Volcano as well, but my retracts were so long (7mm?) given the size and geometry of my printer that it was difficult to get a good print. I rebuilt my big printer with the Titan Aero and a 25mm NEMA 17 at 0.3A. Overall my carriage ended up about 100g lighter, but honestly I can't tell the difference. I've gained a bit of Z build volume because it is a bit shorter, but I've lost a bit of Y because it sticks out further from the carriage. The Aero is powerful enough even with the small stepper and lower current to fully strip PLA without missing steps. I did have to replace the bearings in it recently because one went from being squeaky to fully seizing up. The screw that goes through the bearing is also a bit hokey in that it is there to hold the Aero to the stepper, but if you screw it in to full tightness it will compress the moving parts to the point that they won't move. Leaving the screw slightly loose means it will work its way out over time, and it is behind the cooling fan so you have to remove the fan to check its tightness. There's also the question of aligning the gears to there's no backlash which is a bit fiddly. All in all, I would say the Titan Aero is more trouble than it is worth. There a tons of designs for direct drive extruders using the MK7-style gear right on the stepper shaft and driving into E3D-style hotends. They work really well and aren't terribly heavy. If you have a standard sort of i3 where the carriage only moves in the X direction, you could also try the same thing except with a bowden.
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Mar 11, 2018 13:47
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CapnBry posted:I've had a Greg's Wade's, a regular direct drive, and a Titan Aero so I'm familiar with them all. You're right about the Wade, it works well but it is just so darned big. My direct drive was just a 40mm NEMA 17 motor at 0.6A and what is generically called an MK7 direct drive gear. I tried 4 or 5 different ones (including the official E3D Hobgoblin) and had some whose teeth were just scratches in the metal which didn't work well at all, so YMMV. I found the one listed there as "Reprap 1.75 brass" to be the best, but it could just be that one was machined better by luck. In my direct drive, I just had it attached to an E3D Volcano. It worked perfectly for volumes up to 12mm^3/s. This would also be what the Prusa MK2 ends up using, and what I've retrofitted my original i3 with. I guess it also feels weird that Greg's Wade is something like 8 years old now, and still seems like closest thing to a "standard reprap extruder", no newer designs seem to have filled its role in the same way. I mean I suppose its partly to due with the explosion in number of designs out there now, they are so diluted that everyone is using some niche design or variation out of hundreds, or just buying a proprietary/cloned extruder. I really wish there was an effort to make a good all around updated reprap extruder to rule them all or something. I'm considering doing some kind of direct drive now; what size motor (or torque rating) is typically good for that, full size?
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Mar 11, 2018 19:41
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Just as an alternate data point, I have a bunch of Titans (regular, not aero) on my machines and they're great. I personally really believe that geared extruders are superior to direct-drive ones -- I know that people can get DD extruders working well but there's nothing I hate more than the click-click-click-click of a filament jam that only happened because you're operating on the edge of the motor's torque capability. With the 3:1 drive I can cram 3mm composite filament through a 0.4mm nozzle no with zero problems. The gearing also increases the resolution of your extrusion, which is an advantage when operating with very low layer heights. Oh, and because it multiplies torque, I'm using teeny little 20mm pancake steppers that really compress the size of the carriage. I would suggest supporting E3D because they really have made massive improvements in the field but you can get knockoff Titans from AliExpress for like 10 bucks if you want. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Mar 11, 2018 |
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Mar 11, 2018 19:42
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kaffo posted:I turned the gear manually and it looked like it feeds ok. No gears missing thank god
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Mar 12, 2018 01:48
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Parts Kit posted:Is that a normal temp for PLA? I run my monoprice mini low and slow because of quality issues at the default Cura profile speeds/temps so I'm right at 180C. I normally run 180 - 185 for PLA on the hot end. 230 is absurd for that material.
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Mar 12, 2018 06:47
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The sweet spot for me with pla tends to be around 205-207. 230 is way too goddamned high though. That's almost charring temp.
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Mar 12, 2018 07:20
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230 C still comes up a bunch for PLA because it's what MakerBot software used to default to. There are a lot of Rep 2 printers still out there, printing PLA too hot. 
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Mar 12, 2018 07:32
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Parts Kit posted:Is that a normal temp for PLA? I run my monoprice mini low and slow because of quality issues at the default Cura profile speeds/temps so I'm right at 180C. Yes, it was too hot. S3D defaulted to 230 for PLA for some reason but I've put it back down to 190 with no problem I've managed to refine my problem down to the extruder being a poo poo. I tell it to extrude 100mm and it only extrudes like 40mm First I tried changing the esteps and it got better but it was still like 20mm off Second try I got a different amount extruded so I was wtf-ing and checked the tension on the gear, which was wwaaayy too high, so turned it down Now I'm afraid it's slipping and I'm still not getting 100mm... It's driving me insane 
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Mar 12, 2018 09:04
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Make sure the gear isn't missing teeth. That can cause a headache all on its own. Have you checked the width of the extruded material? Could be that s3d has you with 3mm filament instead of the 1.75mm.
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Mar 12, 2018 09:19
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Make sure the gear isn't missing teeth. That can cause a headache all on its own. Big gear is definitely not missing teeth, I checked after some of the horror on the fb group I don't have calipers to check it sadly, but I have two spools of 1.75 from different vendors and getting identical results with both, so I'm pretty confident that it's extruder S3D was set to 1.75 yeah, I went through the settings with a fine toothed comb after I questioned the high temp Might double check my cabling to, in-case something has been damaged
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Mar 12, 2018 09:23
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kaffo, when you say you changed the E-steps, did you do an actual calibration? It's a real common issue with these Chinese printers that the extruder steps aren't set anywhere close to where they should be. If you haven't calibrated, check this out: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder If you have, another thing to check is if the reference voltage on the extruder stepper drive is set correctly. You didn't mention if you actually hear any clicking or skipping noises at the extruder motor, but the drivers being set low is another pretty common problem. If you search Google for "Tevo Tornado stepper voltage" there are a bunch of different tutorials on how to do it. You'll need a volt meter/multimeter if you don't already have one.
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Mar 12, 2018 12:00
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Acid Reflux posted:kaffo, when you say you changed the E-steps, did you do an actual calibration? It's a real common issue with these Chinese printers that the extruder steps aren't set anywhere close to where they should be. I think you are on to something with the voltage being too low though, since my adjusted estep value was crazy high I've got a multimeter at home, so I'll give that a go! Thanks for the help goons, I'm new to this and I'm doing it on purpose so I've got to learn how the gently caress to do it right 
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Mar 12, 2018 12:09
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:230 is way too goddamned high though. That's almost charring temp. Here's my tests showing 1.75mm PLA filament (1.25 density) feeding 200mm at various feed rates. For my 0.24mm layers with 0.70mm trace width at 65mm/s, that's 10.12mm3/s. The temperature of the hotend was verified using a FLIR thermal camera and a thermocouple to be within 5C of stated temperature.  First line, 100mm/s or 4.01mm3/s, everything is fine 200C-240C. At 200mm/s 8.02mm3/s, at 200C we're only getting 89% of the requested amount of plastic. Note the red zone in the chart is where I could see or hear the extruder slipping so I can actually lose over 10% of my volume without being able to see it happening. I ended up settling on a max speed of 12mm3/s and printing at 230C, which should give me 98% accuracy. Extruder in this test was a direct drive E3D Volcano with an "MK7" direct drive gear, but I also tested it with the Titan Aero and it performed only slightly better, with a printing temp of 225C giving 98% accuracy. EDIT: Formulas Linear mm3/mm = Pi * (LayerHeight / 2) ^ 2 + LayerHeight * (TraceWidth - LayerHeight) mm3/s = mm3/mm * PrintSpeed CapnBry fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Mar 12, 2018 |
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Mar 12, 2018 12:54
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I’ve had some batches of PLA fail to adhere at anything below 220, and one batch of orange that barely worked at all unless it was printed at 235. 
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Mar 12, 2018 13:04
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