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Can we all just agree that these machines are made of magic and wizardry and as mere mortals we can never grow wise enough to understand their inner workings? kinda like me with women
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Mar 12, 2018 13:10
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kaffo posted:Can we all just agree that these machines are made of magic and wizardry and as mere mortals we can never grow wise enough to understand their inner workings? * Actually every time you 3D print something, the conditions are slightly different so you're never actually doing the same thing twice. In fact, I would say that anyone who uses that phrase doesn't fully comprehend that nearly all situations are complex enough that they can never truly be repeated. 
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Mar 12, 2018 17:24
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Those who forget history are doomed to relevel that loving bed AGAIN SON OF A BITCH 
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Mar 12, 2018 17:35
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Yeah, after releveling the bed again last week I used permanent marker to mark the print bed frame and the big adjustment nuts the Wanahao i3 has. Then I added and tightened a small nut beneath each one so they don't move at all without loosening the small nut.
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Mar 12, 2018 17:49
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For the past 6-7 years I've toyed with the idea of 3D printing(I've read this thread off and on since 2011/2012). I'm thinking of diving in for miniature, miniature stand printing, and other small item printing without spending too much and was delighted to see that Monoprice has a few options here. I had a few questions * I assume I should just go for the Mini V2 (the $60 difference between gens is fine) or is it too new for a newbie? Is there another recommendation in this price range? * Any additional tips on basics of 3D printing since the OP was editted and now just has that one pager on high level tips. I'm just looking for a page that does a bit of an overview of the technology as it exists today and the things to be aware of? If I just need to google around, I'll do that but if someone had a blog post/wiki/knowledge base of 3D printing that they trust that'd be a great start.
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Mar 12, 2018 20:09
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The Tevo Little Monster was recommended to me, can anyone comment? https://www.amazon.com/Tevo-Little-Monster-Delta-Printer/dp/B06XXT7P33 Only thing I know is that a set of 3 TL Smoothers is ideal Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Mar 12, 2018 |
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Mar 12, 2018 20:28
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Prusa just posted a video about some print resuming features. I really want to update/retrofit my own printer(a V-Slot machine that i like for its rigidity) to have all this kind of stuff, but man its hard to keep up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDJq0WplXb0
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Mar 12, 2018 23:01
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I have a MK2.5 upgrade kit on order, I hope it ships soon because I just gouged a piece out of my PEI 
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Mar 12, 2018 23:12
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spoon daddy posted:For the past 6-7 years I've toyed with the idea of 3D printing(I've read this thread off and on since 2011/2012). I'm thinking of diving in for miniature, miniature stand printing, and other small item printing without spending too much and was delighted to see that Monoprice has a few options here. I had a few questions How miniature are you wanting? Keep mind that even with small nozzles, squeezing plastic through an orifice has physical limits, so resolution can only go down so far. Resin printers are also a thing. Beautiful results, but costs are higher and you’re dealing with some toxic chemicals.
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Mar 12, 2018 23:14
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eddiewalker posted:How miniature are you wanting? Keep mind that even with small nozzles, squeezing plastic through an orifice has physical limits, so resolution can only go down so far. I was looking at minis that with 1.5 - 2in base. I realize I'll lose resolution compared to resin but I'm probably less finicky than the average miniature gamer. I'm wondering if anyone has any success/failure stories of doing miniatures with standard non-resin materials.
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Mar 13, 2018 00:55
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spoon daddy posted:I was looking at minis that with 1.5 - 2in base. I realize I'll lose resolution compared to resin but I'm probably less finicky than the average miniature gamer. I find printing detail is fine on small pieces, and where my printer really struggles is thin columns. The main takeaway is to print your most detailed face on not on your top or bottom face.  0.4mm nozzle. 0.15mm layer height, about 2.5 inches tall.  0.4mm nozzle. 0.05mm layer height, the coin is 19.4mm in diameter. That's a good example of where my printer falls down, perfect up the knurling because but terrible with the tongue as it's too thin for it to handle.
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Mar 13, 2018 01:21
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spoon daddy posted:For the past 6-7 years I've toyed with the idea of 3D printing(I've read this thread off and on since 2011/2012). I'm thinking of diving in for miniature, miniature stand printing, and other small item printing without spending too much and was delighted to see that Monoprice has a few options here. I had a few questions Mini V2 is a good printer for first 3d printer. I got it about 3 weeks ago and have had great results.
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Mar 13, 2018 15:03
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Did Monoprice ever say when they are releasing this year the Delta Pro 3d? Looks awesome.
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Mar 13, 2018 17:58
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spoon daddy posted:For the past 6-7 years I've toyed with the idea of 3D printing(I've read this thread off and on since 2011/2012). I'm thinking of diving in for miniature, miniature stand printing, and other small item printing without spending too much and was delighted to see that Monoprice has a few options here. I had a few questions
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Mar 14, 2018 02:54
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Is there a 3d modeling thread, where I can find out about someone to hire for making some models, or is that more along the lines of SAmart?
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Mar 14, 2018 06:41
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Parts Kit posted:The mini is a nice learner, it's what I got for my first printer. But that said I wish I had gone up one or two steps on Monoprice's 3d printer line as the mini is slower and you can run out of room faster than you think with the smaller build area. Really glad to hear its a good starter. If my interest takes off and I want to upgrade, this will end up being a nice gift for my nephew.
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Mar 14, 2018 07:11
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Hey, has anybody had issues with all steppers losing power at once? I'm on a smoothie-knockoff called an AZSMZ. Here are my problems: Y-axis failed during a print, so I replaced the stepper motor and driver (DRV8825). Swapped drivers between motors and swapped stepper wires between headers, but it's still not working. I checked the wiring and that's all okay. Trim pot on the DRV8825s doesn't seem to make a difference ranged from 0-1.8V. I'd been troubleshooting the Y-axis and noticed a new problem: that power now drops out of *all* motors (lose holding torque) at once, for like 20 seconds, doesn't respond to commands from the panel. It seems like the root cause is the board, or the power supply. But, I recently wired up some LEDs powered off the 12V line, and when the motors lose power the light stays on, panel stays on, board's got power. Any thoughts that it could be anything besides the board? Anybody know smoothie diagnostics I could run over USB? Edit: I bought a panucatt Azteeg Mini X5 with the Trinamic 2224 drivers. Throwing money at the problem. $115 is a good deal for a fast board with trinamics drivers + wifi + existing LCD, at least compared with the Duet at $170 + panel. Best case, I figure the problem out before it arrives, and I'll have a backup system that doesn't speak a different firmware language. $$$ burning justifications. Mofabio fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Mar 14, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 07:26
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Is there a 3d modeling thread, where I can find out about someone to hire for making some models, or is that more along the lines of SAmart? You could check SAmart but there are also folks here that might be interested. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2877226
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Mar 14, 2018 07:53
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I got to play with a 3dsystems geomagic scanner this morning, the future costs £15k but gently caress me it's fast and idiot proof. Getting one for work, try and stop me.
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Mar 14, 2018 14:07
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Is there a 3d modeling thread, where I can find out about someone to hire for making some models, or is that more along the lines of SAmart?
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Mar 14, 2018 14:57
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I guess kinda both? I'm looking to replicate some stuff I didn't win at auction (prop wise), and also some small custom stuff for some 1/6th scale figures like a throne and a special arm. Nothing that's like... mechanical (i.e. this will need to function, gears, etc), but more like "This needs to look like the pic and reference material", and on the figure stuff it'd have to be made to scale to fit the figures. Nothing outrageously horrible like "OMG I NEED DOOM MARINE ARMOR AND A BLACK PANTHER HELMET", just random stuff.
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Mar 14, 2018 16:41
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spoon daddy posted:Really glad to hear its a good starter. If my interest takes off and I want to upgrade, this will end up being a nice gift for my nephew. Once you've got some printing time under your belt you can also print a z axis spacer and buy this and this as well as a can of aqua net to give yourself ultimate flatness. 
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Mar 15, 2018 02:22
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Parts Kit posted:Do yourself a favor and get a set of feeler gauges from the nearest chain auto parts store. Grab the one that has the most gauges on it as you'll want the really really thin ones that are left off of the smaller sets. These will make leveling the printer's bed much, much easier and will cost you about $7. Thank you! This is exactly the type of advice/tip I was looking for! Will give a trip report once my mini arrives.
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Mar 15, 2018 06:48
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What software are you planning on using? If it is Cura I can post some of my tweaks to the Monoprice printer settings if you'd like. Also here's a page on layer heights on a MP Mini wiki. So far they've worked well for me. https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer
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Mar 15, 2018 11:40
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This is a really stupid question, but can hotends/heat breaks/heat blocks fail suddenly from normal use? I have replaced the main board, extruder motor extruder gear and I'm still And the only thing in this chain is the hotend. It's not the cart or the thermistor, I'm getting nominal readings
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Mar 16, 2018 03:36
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Mofabio posted:Hey, has anybody had issues with all steppers losing power at once? I'm on a smoothie-knockoff called an AZSMZ. Update on this, everything's working again. Faulty stepper, replaced, then wrong voltage on the beefier model. I'd guess half the people ITT already know this, but if a stepper loses torque in a regular period, it's most likely its built-in thermal protection. This was a good example of poor troubleshooting, for me. Proper troubleshooting requires a clear condition of success. If a change is made and the condition is not met, or nothing happens, it's best to reverse the change. In my case, I had a faulty motor which I replaced, and then I did a half-dozen other things in series to try and get the new motor to work: swapped drivers, adjusted the trim pots, changed the wiring. Despite taking elaborate notes during troubleshooting, the un-reversed unsuccessful changes, like driver swap and many trim pot turns, just confused me away from the eventual solution. The problem was 4-fold: bad stepper, replaced with a good stepper with different wiring, and a higher voltage requirement, which for some reason required down-adjusting trims on the other steppers and (possibly, not sure if it helped) replacing the poo poo polyfuses with proper automotive fuses. Unfortunately the new $120 fancy driver board I now do not need has a tracking number (but appears to not have shipped yet). Going to try and cancel the order -- I'll wait till Smoothie 2 to buy a new board :P
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Mar 16, 2018 09:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:I got to play with a 3dsystems geomagic scanner this morning, the future costs £15k but gently caress me it's fast and idiot proof. Getting one for work, try and stop me. Update, maybe 2 months before the money is available. Is anyone interested in videos etc when we get it? Obviously it's a scanner not a printer but I thought it would be relevant to this thread.
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Mar 16, 2018 10:09
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kaffo posted:Yeah, I followed the "mark 120mm, extrude 100mm, work out the difference, adjust esteps, repeat" method. And although it was better it was still off by a fair bit So I fixed my vrefs over the stepper drivers, my extruder is giving me perfect 100mm out the end of the PTFE tube On the other hand, my nozzle is 100% super blocked I did 3 cold pulls and kept getting more and more crap out the hotend. Yet I still couldn't get proper flow through the nozzle without the extruder skipping I took the nozzle off as a last resort and it turns out it was full of poo poo, so I've given it an acetone bath. But I also can't get a length of filament though the hotend while it's cold and the nozzle is off Is this normal? If not, I guess I have crap stuck in the actual hot end, how would I go about cleaning that out properly? cakesmith handyman posted:Update, maybe 2 months before the money is available. Is anyone interested in videos etc when we get it? Obviously it's a scanner not a printer but I thought it would be relevant to this thread.
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Mar 16, 2018 10:33
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Parts Kit posted:What software are you planning on using? If it is Cura I can post some of my tweaks to the Monoprice printer settings if you'd like. I was going to go with Cura to start since it comes bundled so please go ahead and post your settings. And looks like I have a lot of reading ahead of me with that website. Thanks!
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Mar 16, 2018 11:35
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cakesmith handyman posted:Update, maybe 2 months before the money is available. Is anyone interested in videos etc when we get it? Obviously it's a scanner not a printer but I thought it would be relevant to this thread. Yes! I seriously want to know if it's getting to the point where it's not horrible to work with point clouds, because every time I've tried (granted with less sophisticated solutions) I regretted it.
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Mar 16, 2018 12:29
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If I am not running a delta or at insane speeds (due to the structural issues with an i3ish clone) are 32 bit boards an upgrade over a good 8 bit board? I was thinking of my next upgrade step and one of these is the board. The other option is to hack the Terantula so the y and z are stiffer.
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Mar 16, 2018 12:39
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Jestery posted:This is a really stupid question, but can hotends/heat breaks/heat blocks fail suddenly from normal use? Yes yes it is something that can happen I'm back and printing now. Praise the print gods
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Mar 16, 2018 14:09
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kaffo posted:Also update Are you printing PLA or ABS? PLA, you gotta clear yourself. ABS, you can just take it apart and leave it in some acetone. You should be able to get filament to go through the hot end with the nozzle off, when it's cold, or at least I could with my monoprice maker select. I had a MONSTER MEGA CLOG in my tornado, and once I got it cleared, I just heated up a soldering iron and ran it through the hot end (after I took it apart, obviously), and it got most/all of the crap out. The nozzle was a clusterfuck though, and when I tried to use the little drillbit to clear it out, it snapped off so I just used the spare and bought an 8 pack off amazon of diff sizes for like  If you have a soldering iron, just heat it up and try to clear it out that way. Use pliers or something, cause obviously the metal parts conduct heat VERY WELL and poo poo gets hot fast. Also, check to make sure the PRFE tube isn't kinked up. Mine had tightened down so much around the washer that it wasn't letting the filament through like it should, so I snipped a bit off and it seems to be working fine now. Currently rocking a .8 nozzle and I'm in hour 17 of a print of a human heart. Bought some dampeners for the motors off ebay as well. Think it was about for the set of 3, and I'll have em in hopefully by this time next week, and it should cut some of the noise down.Only thing I have left to do is replace the fan I managed to break a blade off of, but that's not really something I'm worried about too much at the moment. I'm still running stock on the hot end (save for the new nozzle). Also - https://www.polyalchemy.com/collections/elixir-pla looks pretty awesome, but dang it's expensive. Might get me some of that purple though...
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Mar 16, 2018 15:04
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Dampeners are a gift from Shenzen. Turned my cr10 from a whirring beast to a purring kitty
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Mar 16, 2018 15:10
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mekilljoydammit posted:Yes! I seriously want to know if it's getting to the point where it's not horrible to work with point clouds, because every time I've tried (granted with less sophisticated solutions) I regretted it. Well from our demo the fun part was selecting areas and telling it there was a feature there i.e. a cone/spherical curve/cylinder etc, and if you had enough of those plus a bunch of splines you could output a step file etc just of the features i.e. no mesh or point cloud. Auto filling incomplete features was child's play too.
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Mar 16, 2018 15:19
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Are you printing PLA or ABS? PLA, you gotta clear yourself. ABS, you can just take it apart and leave it in some acetone. You should be able to get filament to go through the hot end with the nozzle off, when it's cold, or at least I could with my monoprice maker select. I'll try and clean out the hot end tonight with a soldering iron and use the spare nozzle And I saw some of the prints with that stuff on the tevo owners group, it looks incredible!
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Mar 16, 2018 15:26
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My friend just texted me he ordered the green... so at least I'll get to see how well it works with his machine and if it's worth grabbing for me. On the hot end cleaning, you can also use the hex screws as rods to push poo poo out of a heated up section, but if you have a small soldering iron tip, you can use that to squish it out as well. It'll heat up enough to char the PLA so work kinda quick, once it starts heating up just either try to fit it in the tube, or just have it next to the tube to heat it that way, and use the hex key that fits in there to try and push the goop out. Good luck with it man! I'd have filmed me doing it, but it'd just be a 30 min video of a fat guy hunched over cursing a blue streak 
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Mar 16, 2018 15:38
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cakesmith handyman posted:Update, maybe 2 months before the money is available. Is anyone interested in videos etc when we get it? Obviously it's a scanner not a printer but I thought it would be relevant to this thread. I'd sure be interested in seeing the actual workflow and results from a simple use case.
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Mar 16, 2018 17:39
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I've had great success just putting hot ends in toaster ovens at like 350F for 15 minutes or so and then pushing out the crap with the spring from a pen and hex keys. If the clog is just partial, cold pulling is also really effective.
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Mar 16, 2018 23:28
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Ok, I cleaned out my hot end, nearly got my soldering iron stuck in there, changed the nozzle... Wonderful! Bar the weird ear defect its pretty much perfect! Thanks for the help guys (especially stupid sexy flanders) Now to print a spool holder
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Mar 16, 2018 23:52
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