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I've got a couple of little two strokes that are overdue for carb cleaning and rebuilding. I might as well replace the fuel lines while I'm at it because last time I bought some yellow silicone-feeling hose that has since shrunk and hardened despite being rated for 10% ethanol. Does anyone have any recommendation for something better than auto parts store bulk hose?
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Mar 14, 2018 04:54
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Boys who love boys
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 19:54 |
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Auto parts store bulk hose, but the black vulcanized kind.
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Mar 14, 2018 05:18
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Yeah, auto parts store stuff is the good poo poo. Don't mess around with the thinner transparent stuff, it always kinks and gets hard.
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Mar 14, 2018 14:44
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Sagebrush posted:Auto parts store bulk hose, but the black vulcanized kind. I’ll give that a shot. Is it any thinner walled than the non-vulcanized kind? I hate how that stuff always twice the OD of the oem hose. HenryJLittlefinger posted:kinks and gets hard. Lol
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Mar 14, 2018 21:01
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The clear/colored stuff is usually Tygon. Tygon is thinner walled. The black vulcanized stuff is going to be thicker and less flexible but will last longer. My local ACE hardware has a cut-your-own-length section with 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ID's. If you buy it at the Auto Parts store in 3 foot sections it's stupid expensive.
Gorson fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Mar 16, 2018 |
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Mar 14, 2018 21:35
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From a few months back.HenryJLittlefinger posted:I always just go to my local auto part store and buy a foot of automotive fuel line for about $3 when I'm in need. That way I can make it just a little longer than stock (easier to deal with removal/reattachment), and have extra for making bushings, future replacements, emergency repairs, etc. There's also always a good supply of various types of hose clamps that will fit. I've always found the per foot prices pretty cheap for 3/8" stuff at O'Reilly/Autozone/NAPA. poo poo is great when you need little rubber washers.
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Mar 14, 2018 23:48
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Auto parts poo poo is usually surprisingly good. We use expensive Motion Pro black stuff at the shop, that's also good. Not sure what it's made of. It's a bit thinner and more flexible than the auto parts poo poo, but stays pliable over time. Don't think I've ever seen it crack or gum up.
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Mar 15, 2018 01:01
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The float bowl screws on my DRZ’s carburetor are super loving stuck and stripped. This time it’s not my fault. Should I gamble on eBaying a used carb? Should I splurge on a FCR? Should I take mine in somewhere?
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Mar 16, 2018 00:02
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Or you could like cut a slot in them and use a flathead or take them off with vice grips or something. If you've gotten this far, and you're prepared to spend the money for a new carb or paying someone to fix it, wouldn't it be smarter to spend that money on tools to resolve the problem? Cause you get to keep those tools and use them for other stuff and your wallet will thank you.
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Mar 16, 2018 00:37
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True I’m probably just looking for an easy way out or confirmation on spending more on poo poo I don’t need
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Mar 16, 2018 01:57
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I've cut slots in stripped screws before. With a sawzall saw insert, because they can fit in tight places. Takes forever (like, 20 minutes with breaks, because of the boredom) but you feel like a king when that screw finally gets loose, so you can chuck it and put a nice new one in.
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Mar 16, 2018 02:04
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If you plan on doing your own carb work in the future, either replace the screws with socket head cap screws or get a JIS driver. The stock screws are made of cheese so that you can't damage the carb body if you overtorque them, so if you switch hardware, always remember to be cautious with torque during reassembly. And yeah, cutting a slot helps, as does an impact screw driver if you have one. Sometimes giving them some good sharp raps with a punch right in the center of the head will unstick them.
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Mar 16, 2018 02:20
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I've got one of these: An impact driver is the best obviously, but 90% of the time the above works great, with the added benefit of not being a clumsy fiddly impact driver that's no use as an actual screwdriver.
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Mar 16, 2018 02:32
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Revvik posted:The float bowl screws on my DRZ’s carburetor are super loving stuck and stripped. This time it’s not my fault. Should I gamble on eBaying a used carb? Should I splurge on a FCR? Should I take mine in somewhere? Might as well try all the tricks. Got a heat gun? Try it outside.
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Mar 16, 2018 07:46
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Revvik posted:The float bowl screws on my DRZ’s carburetor are super loving stuck and stripped. This time it’s not my fault. Should I gamble on eBaying a used carb? Should I splurge on a FCR? Should I take mine in somewhere? Since these screws are so soft, I've usually had success by just clamping the poo poo out of them on the edge with a pair of vise grips/knipex with good teeth and turning. Worst comes to worst, you just drill the head off and buy socket head cap screws afterward.
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Mar 16, 2018 09:18
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I have used the vise grip method on Kawi carb screws, and it's worked pretty well. Then, yeah, replaced with hex bolts.
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Mar 16, 2018 16:28
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 So I found my KLR's charging issue. PO doesn't appear to have been lying about recently fitting it with a new stator, but obviously something seems to have been done wrong with the install, leading to this. I will snip the existing wires before the break, strip them back a bit, and do an inline splice of new wire + solder and heat shrink wrap, but what the hell do I put on the outside that'll stand up to all that oil/heat, and hopefully prevent future rubbing? Also, any tips for re-installing to avoid having this happen again? My R/R was also testing bad (in a weird way, not sure if there's a typo in my Clymer manual or I'm taking crazy pills) and the battery seems done from all the full discharges, so I've ordered a new Motobatt plus a generic MOSFET replacement R/R from eBay. The battery seemed to know its time is nigh -- the threads for the positive terminal finally stripped out when I went to reinstall it to bring home, so I had to jam a small rock under the seat to keep the connection. Sagebrush posted:Auto parts store bulk hose, buy the black vulcanized kind. post-haste! Slavvy posted:Or you could like cut a slot in them and use a flathead or take them off Yep, this. I've got two nice stainless hex heads on my front master cylinder lid where the stripped out JIS ones once were. Feels good man.
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Mar 16, 2018 21:49
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
I use self fusing silicone tape for stuff like that, usually with success. It's a little bulky, but seems to work.
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Mar 16, 2018 22:02
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Slavvy posted:Ok so my next question is, is there a book for dummies about this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injection-Installation-Modification-International/dp/0879387432
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Mar 16, 2018 23:04
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I use self fusing silicone tape for stuff like that, usually with success. It's a little bulky, but seems to work. Oh, nice! That looks like it should do the trick, and be great to add to my trail kit for emergency repairs as well.
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Mar 16, 2018 23:06
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Oh, nice! That looks like it should do the trick, and be great to add to my trail kit for emergency repairs as well. I've made a few minor repairs with it that I intended to be short term, but turned out to be permanent. Most of the exposed portion of my wiring harness is wrapped with that stuff, too. You can get it at most auto parts stores.
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Mar 16, 2018 23:22
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Revvik posted:True I’m probably just looking for an easy way out or confirmation on spending more on poo poo I don’t need either cut a slot into them with a dremel and flat head em out or penetrating lube + pliers/channelocks. they shouldn't be on there that tight anyway. if you want, PM me and i'll send you some replacements from mcmaster carr. i bought a poo poo ton because i rejetted recently
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Mar 21, 2018 17:54
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My place of work is burning down around me but Im stuck phone posting about my only vehicle being shady. Where should I start with my 2015 CB300f stalling at idle about three or four times this morning? It has 16k miles, the spark plug and air filter was replaced last year. It started but died immediately. I screwed around with neutral and the kill switch, tried it again and it started but I revved it once and sure enough it died when returning to idle. It had another false start or two then I let about twenty seconds pass, worked the ignition a couple times (scared I needed to prime the pump) , and started it without issue, although I stared suspiciously at the idle on the tach, unsure if it was low. I rode it 20 minutes to work without issue and there was no check engine light on the ride. The bike is fuel injected. It's had some minor, minor problems starting for over a year now, things I convinced myself were just a part of the bike aging; an uncommon tiny stumble when it was started that cleared up immediately, or stalling out on start up very, very rarely but always starting on the second try (this happened maybe once every few months when being ridden daily). What scares me is now this all seems like one issue that's gotten acute. How worried should I be? Should I check the fuel delivery somehow? This is more or less my only vehicle; I didn't buy a brand new EFI bike to deal with this bullshit.
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Mar 21, 2018 19:37
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Check valve clearances cause it's free and easy. Then if you can borrow or buy a fuel pressure gauge (they're pretty cheap), check what your fuel pressure is while priming/cranking. Has it got an aftermarket pipe?
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Mar 21, 2018 19:51
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OK, thanks for the help. I can rent a gauge for free if my mechanic friend doesn't already have one, and I know he has a set of feeler gauges and can help me check the valves too. Thanks again, I'll look into that when I can, this weekend if the problem doesn't reappear, sooner if it does. Edit - Stock everything. I thought about getting a pipe and power commander but eeehhh.
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Mar 21, 2018 19:58
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Dumb question but is there enough gas in the tank? I had a Honda that liked to die at stoplights if the tank wasn’t full enough.
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Mar 21, 2018 20:33
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Hmn. The bike has always gone "up" one bar after a few minutes of riding, so in this case today it started at 1/5 then changed to 2/5. Also it has a super secret "get gas you dummy" where the last bar flashes. So I'd say it's not that low, right at a quarter tank I suppose. I planned on riding it maybe another half or hour tonight before getting gas.
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Mar 21, 2018 20:40
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I would top it off and see if the problem goes away. I know it sounds stupid
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Mar 21, 2018 20:53
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Anyone ever ridden an XR1200? Thoughts?
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Mar 21, 2018 20:56
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Razzled posted:Anyone ever ridden an XR1200? Thoughts? Big and heavy and slow compared to anything you would think of as sporty. Insanely fast and razor sharp compared to a normal Harley. Really pleasant handling for such a large bike, an entertaining engine, adequate brakes, good suspension. Jack B Nimble posted:Hmn. The bike has always gone "up" one bar after a few minutes of riding, so in this case today it started at 1/5 then changed to 2/5. Also it has a super secret "get gas you dummy" where the last bar flashes. Have those things got DBW or an idle control valve? If the latter, try taking that out and making sure it's not clogged if you don't find anything.
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Mar 21, 2018 21:06
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I've been kicking around the idea of getting rid of the Tuono for a standard and the XR1200 rubs the right knobs with how it sounds and looks. Either that or a Duc Scrambler
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Mar 21, 2018 21:17
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Slavvy posted:
I really have no clue, but I'll look into that, and my mechanic should be able to find out for me if it comes to that, so we'll check that too.
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Mar 21, 2018 21:17
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Razzled posted:I've been kicking around the idea of getting rid of the Tuono for a standard and the XR1200 rubs the right knobs with how it sounds and looks. Either that or a Duc Scrambler Scrambler is like a monster trying really hard to be a vstrom with rad styling and it works incredibly well. The two aren't remotely alike besides looks. For actual ownership, I'd take the reliability of a Sportster engine over the *cough* reliability of a Ducati but on the other hand the scrambler is a fairly ordinary modern bike in terms of chassis, cycle parts, electrical etc whereas the Harley is still a Harley with all the tremendous bullshit that entails. Parts for both cost millions but Harley will always have what you need in stock. There's also the, uh, cultural aspects. But really they're such massively different machines, despite the superficial similarity, you should ride both and decide that way, they're like one of those convergent evolution things where a moth looks just like a butterfly or whatever.
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Mar 21, 2018 21:38
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I hooned the ever loving poo poo out of a 1200 kitted 883 for my first road bike and while its not really meant for peg dragging, crazy shenanigans those bikes are still very capable and not at all as bad as everyone wants to make them out to be. Ive always assumed the XRs would be rad as gently caress considering its reputation of a being a killer sportster package. See if your local dealer can let you test out a used sporty to get a base opinion of the platform if you've never ridden one.
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Mar 21, 2018 23:09
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Razzled posted:I've been kicking around the idea of getting rid of the Tuono for a standard and the XR1200 rubs the right knobs with how it sounds and looks. Either that or a Duc Scrambler The Tuono... is a standard?
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Mar 22, 2018 04:09
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Lumping the Tuono in the same category as the Triumph Street Twin makes words meaningless, unless standard now just means "you can see the engine and it's not a cruiser or dirtbike"
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Mar 22, 2018 06:55
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Yeah I'd say the Tuono is very much a streetfighter, a category that seems to have been forgotten by everyone since the manufacturers started making them.
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Mar 22, 2018 08:28
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Supernaked is also a word...in a way.
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Mar 22, 2018 16:42
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I hear Ducati Scramblers are plentiful used because everyone buys them and rides them 100 miles and sells them. No idea why, cause they're some of the nicest rides of any bike out there. Ducati owners are dipshits I guess.
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Mar 22, 2018 21:25
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Ducati owners are dipshits I guess.
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Mar 22, 2018 23:08
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