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BitBasher posted:Wait, when I looked at Hagarty I could get pretty reasonable insurance that allowed a couple thousand miles a year. Did I miss fine print or something? Yea I think its something like 2500 miles or so its not too bad. Another reason I went with Grundy is that the customer service was way better. Maybe I just caught the one person at Hagerty in a bad mood that day but they were rude and short. The people at Grundy were awesome.
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Mar 18, 2018 00:57
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BitBasher posted:Wait, when I looked at Hagarty I could get pretty reasonable insurance that allowed a couple thousand miles a year. Did I miss fine print or something? Yep. There are usage restrictions. It's been a while since I looked, so maybe they have other options now, I dunno. I just stuck with my normal insurance and figured I'd probably die in a serious accident anyway.
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Mar 18, 2018 01:25
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It must vary by location because I have no mileage limits with Hagerty. I do have usage restrictions but they're pretty lax overall, and without the usage restrictions I would still be subject to emissions inspections. I carpool to work with my wife and we drop the kiddo off at school on the way, so the number of days where I even could drive my truck to work is tiny anyway.
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Mar 18, 2018 01:33
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Hagerty and Grundy both have restrictions on use, and require you to own a separate daily driver vehicle. I got insurance on my VW Bus with Hagerty and then a week in (before they issued the actual card, but after they took payment) they saw that I took it to an RV campsite (had a wordpress blog for it) and they dropped me. I even mentioned that I would NOT be camping with it after the policy went into effect but they didn't give a gently caress and recommended that I contact them again for a different vehicle in the future.
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Mar 18, 2018 01:33
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How good of a deal is this? 2x 2 ton jack stands for $23.56: https://slickdeals.net/f/11380431-craftsman-4-ton-jack-stands-one-pair-20-23-back-in-points-23-56-w-free-in-store-pickup-sears I don't really do any mechanical work, but I guess it would let me change my own oil. But do ramps make more sense for that? FYI, I obviously don't have a floor jack, just the one that came with my car for installing a spare. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 02:00
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That's a pretty good deal on two jack stands. I'd get it just for changing oil/tires. Never used ramps personally because of cost, also if your car isn't running it's hard to get it up ramps.
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Mar 18, 2018 02:10
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Breakfast Feud posted:That's a pretty good deal on two jack stands. I'd get it just for changing oil/tires. Never used ramps personally because of cost, also if your car isn't running it's hard to get it up ramps.  One thing that's always held me back from doing my oil changes is how to dispose of the old oil. Don't I have to pay a shop to take my old oil? Though from what I can tell, I might be able to take it one of the sites here free of charge: http://www.menv.com/pages/recycling/usedoil.html
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Mar 18, 2018 03:01
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Advance/o’reilly/autozone all take used oil for free. E: or this https://oppositelock.kinja.com/scary-popular-mechanics-oil-change-tip-1653255870 rdb fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 03:18
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rdb posted:Advance/o’reilly/autozone all take used oil for free. Can I just drop it off in like a milk jug?
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Mar 18, 2018 06:19
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All of them here have you just dump it into their recycling bin.
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Mar 18, 2018 06:22
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I use a funnel to dump the used oil back into the big 5 qt jug that the new oil came in, and take that with me to AutoZone/etc, then toss the jug in the recycling bin after I've emptied it into their tank - but my car has a 5 quart capacity. So if your car uses more or less, that may not work so well. You can purchase containers specifically meant for hauling used oil to a collection point too - parts stores will have them with the catch pans.
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Mar 18, 2018 06:26
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I use a funnel to dump the used oil back into the big 5 qt jug that the new oil came in, and take that with me to AutoZone/etc, then toss the jug in the recycling bin after I've emptied it into their tank - but my car has a 5 quart capacity. So if your car uses more or less, that may not work so well. Just don’t buy the absolute cheapest one. It’s worth it to spend a few more bucks so it doesn’t leak.
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Mar 18, 2018 14:52
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^Spot on. They're still pretty inexpensive anyway. Get one that's big enough to do two oil changes, in case you forget to dump it right away.
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Mar 18, 2018 18:20
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2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. My wife went to open the rear passenger door then this happened: How annoying is this going to be for a DIY fix? Really surprised that this handle broke since it is the least-used handle. I'd imagine that all I'd have to do is open the door's inner-panel and remove/break some fasteners to get to the relevant components. On a related note I'm starting to dislike this Hyundai. Lots of little, but annoying things have been breaking apart despite my careful treatment of this vehicle.
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Mar 18, 2018 19:33
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. My wife went to open the rear passenger door then this happened: Wait until you get to the end of the 10 year/100000 mile powertrain warranty (you're either close or over it already) if you want something to distract you from the little annoyances 
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Mar 18, 2018 19:49
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Goober Peas posted:Wait until you get to the end of the 10 year/100000 mile powertrain warranty (you're either close or over it already) if you want something to distract you from the little annoyances Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing. All of these little things breaking is going to lead up to something bigger. I'm really considering selling this car by summer's end. I don't want to deal with its future problems. melon cat fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 20:59
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melon cat posted:2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. My wife went to open the rear passenger door then this happened: Eh, the hardest part will be finding one the same color, but that's definitely within the capabilities of a DIYer to replace. You assume right, you need to get into the door and remove it from the back side. First, you remove any screws on the inside hidden anywhere: behind covers, down in the pocket of the interior handle, etc. Second, remove the window crank if any (you can still buy a 2018 car with manual windows, believe it or not). Next, slide your fingers under the edges around the outside and pull. You may need a pry tool. You'll probably break a few of the trim retainer clips. They're pretty much sacrificial. Get new ones from the auto parts store and clear out any broken ones stuck in their holes on the door. Once you got the door panel off, you can probably figure out the rest. Try not to drop any screws inside the door, it can be a pain to get them back.
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Mar 19, 2018 00:03
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Godholio posted:^Spot on. They're still pretty inexpensive anyway. Get one that's big enough to do two oil changes, in case you forget to dump it right away.
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Mar 19, 2018 00:16
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melon cat posted:Yeah I was thinking the exact same thing. All of these little things breaking is going to lead up to something bigger. I'm really considering selling this car by summer's end. I don't want to deal with its future problems. I'm definitely going to try and talk my wife into selling her 2013 after we get it back from the warranty engine replacement. Just don't have confidence it'll be reliable in the long term.
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Mar 19, 2018 00:26
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Aren’t Hyundais supposed to be pretty reliable in the last 10-12 years?
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Mar 19, 2018 00:41
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They had some rod bearing issues for a few years. And I think someone here had a lot of issues with a veloster. They aren’t toyota by a long shot. Keep in mind when Jd power or Consumer reports tracks problems an issue with the radio counts the same as needing an engine or transmission.
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Mar 19, 2018 00:47
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I've seen Hyundai marine diesels with like 140000 hours 
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Mar 19, 2018 00:57
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Josh Lyman posted:My former roommate left his drain pan so that’ll save me some of the up front costs, but I guess I’m supposed to get wheel chucks and an oil filter wrench too. Hopefully I can just hand loosen it, maybe with rubber gloves for better grip, and I guess I can use a bag of cat litter as to secure the rear wheels. If you are buying stands, it's also worth getting a trolley jack. It will make lifting the car a lot easier, you can keep the jack forever and your car won't fall off it again.
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Mar 19, 2018 01:01
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Dennis McClaren posted:For most smaller car fixes, fluid replacements - it can sometimes be a good idea to check youtube first. Well, that video shows the problem. This guy, the filler tube:  Is nowhere to be found in this van. Everything else under the hood is the same. I can see where that tube goes that there's a rubber hose with a PVC pipe cap hose clamped into it as a plug. Rockauto doesn't have them, nor anywhere on google. GOD DAMMIT, PREVIOUS OWNER. e: the hose that goes to the side of the air cleaner in the pic is also missing, so I guess this thing is just sucking in air from the doghouse. There's still a filter involved, so does that matter? I mean it drives and runs but I assume they didn't engineer the hose in for no reason. (Expect a lot of these posts as I discover more PO retardation I guess) Javid fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 04:02
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I waffled back and forth on where to post this and felt it ultimately belonged here because it's pretty stupid. I recently had a total loss on my primary vehicle and am looking for a beater shop truck in the interim and this little guy showed up on Autotrader.... https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=473390080 I literally live next door to a family member with a full shop who does all kinds of work on cars so the long-term plan is to find something on a salvage title and build some kind of stupid under engineered and over powered death trap but I want an old reliable truck in the interim. The guy has it listed for about three times what it's worth but does anyone have any experience with the Mighty Max/D50 trucks? If I can get this guy to reason on price it checks all my boxes and it's in crazy shape for the age. I would happily tool around town in this thing while we work on other projects, I was just curious if anyone else had any kind of HOLY poo poo THAT TRUCK WILL GIVE YOU BRAIN CANCER type warnings that I missed on Google. Neighbor says I should wait on a 22-RE Toyota Pickup or a Nissan Hardbody in decent condition but it seems like most of them here in NC get snatched up really quickly for a lot more than they're worth thanks to all the off road folks. What say you, AI? Stupid idea? Should I just take my insurance money and put it down on a Prius? (Apologies if this is the wrong thread. I tried.) mischief fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 05:22
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spog posted:If you are buying stands, it's also worth getting a trolley jack.
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Mar 19, 2018 07:55
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Josh Lyman posted:I may look into getting one after trying an oil change with my car's included scissor jack. DIY loses some appeal when I can get 3 oil changes (supplying my own oil and filter) for the same price as $17 for jack stands + $30 for a Harbor Freight 2 ton jack + $15 for a pair of rubber wheel chocks, though I do have a couple 2x4's sitting around so I'll probably just make my own chocks. Truth be told, there isn't a lot of incentive to do your own oil changes, for those reasons, Not to mention that you have to store a bulky jack/stands in between them and $50 today hits your pocket harder than it would in 3 years time. That said, if you ever wake up and find your car has a flat and you have to change it on your driveway, owning a trolley jack is worth every single cent you spent on it.
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Mar 19, 2018 09:27
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So maybe too technical for stupid questions (won't know until I ask). 2006 Saturn Ion with the common as dirt 2.2L L61 Ecotec. I've had random pinging and surging on my car lately (it pings particularly badly if I try to pass or even go up a tiny incline without a downshift). It has new spark plugs (OEM, less than 3k on them), ignition system is all OEM, original primary O2 sensor, fuel pump has about 80k (OEM pump). 201k on the car. Finally looked at short and long term fuel trim. Even at idle, short term is all over the place. With the cruise set at highway speeds (which has it right at ~2500 rpm), short and long term are bouncing all over - long term from -18 to +3, short term from -20 to +20 while cruising with the cruise set at 70 mph. While parked and idling, long term hangs around -7 (drops to 0 when held at ~1500), but short term is -10 to +5 at idle, -15 to +20 at 1500. Vacuum is steady according to OBD2 data, idle is steady, so I don't suspect vacuum issues (there's a whopping 3 vacuum lines on the engine anyway...). Engine coolant temps are well within normal (all of this is via OBD2 data). Clogged fuel filter, tired O2 sensor, both, or more? I have a new Wix fuel filter sitting here (it goes on this afternoon), just wondering if I should go ahead and order a new primary O2 while I'm at it. I haven't checked fuel pressure yet (don't own a gauge). spog posted:Truth be told, there isn't a lot of incentive to do your own oil changes, for those reasons, Not to mention that you have to store a bulky jack/stands in between them and $50 today hits your pocket harder than it would in 3 years time. Oil changes with Mobil 1 run $70-100 at most shops around me; if I opt for whatever bulk synthetic they have, it's still $50+ (plus an extra "gently caress you" charge because my car uses a cartridge filter, despite it being one of the most common cartridge filters on the planet). I can do it myself for a little over $30, with Mobil 1 + an OEM filter, in 15 minutes (assuming I drop the drain plug in the oil and have to fish it out). Don't need ramps, jacks, etc - just crank the wheels to hard right when I park, slide the drain pan under, yank the drain plug, swear a bit because I just got hot oil on my arm. Oil filter is up top, just needs a big wrench to remove the cap. This is a small rear end coupe, but I've found ways to do oil changes on nearly every car I've owned without lifting the car at all. Tell me again how there's no incentive to do it myself? Especially when I drive enough to change it 4-5 times a year (with a very generous 8-9k schedule)? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:24 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 12:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Tell me again how there's no incentive to do it myself? Especially when I drive enough to change it 4-5 times a year (with a very generous 8-9k schedule)? I haven't told you anything??
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Mar 19, 2018 12:38
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mischief posted:I waffled back and forth on where to post this and felt it ultimately belonged here because it's pretty stupid. I recently had a total loss on my primary vehicle and am looking for a beater shop truck in the interim and this little guy showed up on Autotrader.... That's a lot of money for that truck. It's especially a lot of money if it's for a beater truck. There's nothing particularly wrong with those trucks as far as I know (apart from being gutless, I reckon), but I would go into it expecting strange electrical issues and the occasional leak from old/dried out gaskets and seals. It's in fantastic shape and it's a great find and as far as I know parts are still available at reasonable prices.
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Mar 19, 2018 12:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:So maybe too technical for stupid questions (won't know until I ask). 2006 Saturn Ion with the common as dirt 2.2L L61 Ecotec. I've had random pinging and surging on my car lately (it pings particularly badly if I try to pass or even go up a tiny incline without a downshift). It has new spark plugs (OEM, less than 3k on them), ignition system is all OEM, original primary O2 sensor, fuel pump has about 80k (OEM pump). 201k on the car. I would look at the O2 sensor voltage, if its bouncing around too and leading the fuel trims, replace it. When tuning my cobalt ss/tc I could tell the difference between a new O2 and one with 20k miles on it, symptoms were similar but not as extreme.
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Mar 19, 2018 13:29
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So I'm having a discussion elsewhere with someone about attaining the best traction during turns. I was always taught that you should adjust your speed as appropriate in advance of the turn (e.g. breaking before a tight turn) such that you can go into the turn at an appropriate constant velocity and then gently accelerate at the apex coming out of the turn, which will give you the best traction. Is this actually accurate? I can see how, given that there is a lateral 'centrifugal' force acting on the car during a turn (which is effectively a function of your forward velocity), then if you start to accelerate at the apex of the turn then you are effectively putting in forward acceleration to balance out the lateral acceleration from the turn... does that make sense??
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Mar 19, 2018 14:11
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(Note: I used to work for an insurance company so I use abbreviations such as ds for driver side and pf for passenger front. I can edit my post if these abbreviations are annoying) I have the feeling I know the answer to this question, but I have to have the goons tell me "no." OP experience with cars: barely any. I can change my cabin air filter and unscrew bolts and follow simple directions but I pay professionals for anything more complicated than an oil change. Vehicle: 2011 Toyota yaris 4 door hatchback Airbag locations in my vehicle: pf seat airbags in the dashboard on the ds and ps I don't have the curtain/side airbags. Current modifications to my vehicle: removed the back seats goal modification: I want to remove the pf seat, but not unless I can keep the ds f airbag functioning tldr Question: can I trust this by pass module to keep my ds airbag functioning if I install it after removing my pf seat? According to my friend's car-club-buddy, this is a bypass module for the "Toyota triple wire setup with the individual weight sensors on the corner of each bracket." Kind of skeptical that my friends link doesn't list the Yaris however... Also, I offered to pay him to install it (i'm more than willing to pay a professional to do anything involving the airbag system) and he didn't respond, so I am wary. Pictures of the airbag connectors under the pf seat: close up picture 2 removing the connector with a screwdriver What Google told me: Google and Toyota world forums told me how to remove the bolts securing the pf seat to the floor, but they didn't have advice about the airbag sensor. Long story Last week I did the following: 1) disconnected the battery 2) removed the bolts securing the pf seat to the floor 3) my mechanic neighbor used a screwdriver to pop off the airbag system 4) we took the pf seat from the vehicle 5) we reconnected the battery and turned on the ignition. The airbag warning light was on. 6) the mechanic told me to go to the for their engine code reader. O'Reilly auto parts would not use their engine thing to read the code. They referred me to the dealer. My other friend says I should have gone to AutoZone for their code reader but I feel like AutoZone would have also referred me to my dealer. Should I have gone to AutoZone? 7) the dealership said they would only reinstall the pf seat and recalibrate the vehicle. They said the ds airbag would not work if that airbag light was on. 8) at home, I disconnected the battery. 9) I re installed the pf seat and reconnected the airbag cable. 10) I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition. Now the airbag light is no longer on Supposedly if you install bypass module after removing the pf seat while the battery is still off, you can remove the ps f seat AND keep the ds airbag function. Thoughts? Skepticism? The friend-of-a-friend who showed this to me wouldn't let me pay him to install it so I'm wary it's not as reliable as I would want it to be. Also the link says it's for trucks/suvs which seems different than a yaris hatchback... legsarerequired fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 14:18
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdUpdkVLDIU&t=1377s
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Mar 19, 2018 14:37
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El Grillo posted:So I'm having a discussion elsewhere with someone about attaining the best traction during turns. I was always taught that you should adjust your speed as appropriate in advance of the turn (e.g. breaking before a tight turn) such that you can go into the turn at an appropriate constant velocity and then gently accelerate at the apex coming out of the turn, which will give you the best traction. If you're talking about the street, the first is correct, because hunting for tenths on public roads is a horrible idea. On a track, that's not a simple question. Depends on the corner and your car. Some cars you might want to trail brake into the corner, others will murder you for trying. Sometimes you use the throttle to help adjust the car mid turn. Sometimes you run a less than optimal line in one corner to run a better line in the more important corner before or after.
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Mar 19, 2018 14:56
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El Grillo posted:So I'm having a discussion elsewhere with someone about attaining the best traction during turns. I was always taught that you should adjust your speed as appropriate in advance of the turn (e.g. breaking before a tight turn) such that you can go into the turn at an appropriate constant velocity and then gently accelerate at the apex coming out of the turn, which will give you the best traction. Accelerating out of the turn lets you use the scrub angle on the tires to your advantage, helping you turn more cleanly. The car is naturally going to want to understeer (keep going straight ahead) while the tires are telling it to turn. For FWD, the wheels are turned slightly more than the car is actually turning, so accelerating gives you more velocity in the new direction to pull the car around the turn, so to speak. With RWD, the rear tires are turned slightly less than the rest of the car, so accelerating will push the rear of the car forward, giving it more rotational velocity and into oversteer, again helping you get around the turn. The key is to accelerate moderately without breaking traction. The point is not to burn rubber but to use the force at the wheels to help the car as a whole rotate around its center of mass.
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Mar 19, 2018 15:09
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legsarerequired posted:Thoughts? Skepticism? The friend-of-a-friend who showed this to me wouldn't let me pay him to install it so I'm wary it's not as reliable as I would want it to be. My biggest concern would be is the Yaris airbag system identical or similar enough to the FJ/4Runner's that that device will be able to emulate the signals the airbag control module is looking for. Just because it uses the same physical connector doesn't necessarily mean its compatible. You may want to check with the manufacturer before proceeding, or at least ask if they'll allow you to return it if it doesn't work in your application. Beyond that, assuming it spoofs the airbag control module to the point where it doesn't detect an error it should be OK, but the device will doubtlessly come with some kind of "for off-road use only" or "use at your own risk" disclaimer, as I'm sure they didn't do any crash testing with it installed. Geoj fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Mar 19, 2018 |
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Mar 19, 2018 15:42
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The thing about cornering in the real world is you don't go: Decelerate to optimal speed for radial traction ->execute constant radius turn at grip limit -> accelerate away in a straight line. Whether it's a 45 degree elbow or a hairpin, there's ways to increase your total speed. Look up "late apex" lines; you turn in gradually feeding in steering until it's at its sharpest, then gradually straighten it again as your new, straighter path carries you through the corner and you hit the inside edge after the midpoint. Since you're not immediately at your tightest turn rate, you can hold on to your speed a little longer, holding the brakes after you initiate the turn. The early straightening also lets you get back on the power sooner since you're not using your full grip margin for the turn. You get through the turn quicker, but more importantly you come out of it faster, setting you up to more quickly traverse the next straightaway or whatever. Things get more complicated, of course. There's decreasing radius turns where you have to slow early and follow the outer track edge for a bit before that sharp turn in, rapid sequential turns, changing track widths/elevation/surface finish, which all change things up a little. The basic idea holds true though; sometimes you trade a lower speed at the tightest part of the turn for being faster overall.
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Mar 19, 2018 16:02
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Cool thanks guys. I'm more interested in the aspect of sustaining best traction through turns in the real world, not racing or best speed or anything like that. I was taught (on an advanced driving course that's modelled off the UK police driving course - don't ask) that the method above was generally the best way to take turns and maintain good speed whilst being as safe as possible. Hence my asking about the forces operating on the vehicle etc.
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Mar 19, 2018 16:27
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doing my annual Saturn wheel hub bearing replacement. Finally got a 20-ton press and doing it my self this year. Is it advisable to put anti-seize or grease between the bearing mating surfaces? (hub and upright) There is a lot of pressure pushing those bearings in and I figure that additional grease layer may be bad, of course it may be easier to get out next year.
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Mar 19, 2018 19:44
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