|
Dear no one in particular, I love huge wall-sized murals of artwork but wallpaper in homes almost isn't ever that. It's tacky little floral patterns or just some stupid pattern, as shown in deep web creep's photo. If you're thinking of doing that then just paint your walls instead and have nice wall hangings
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 07:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:30 |
|
|
deep web creep posted:Closed on a house last Friday but we're not moving in until the end of next month, so the plan is to put some work into the house. New floors, paint the walls, a few little upgrades here and there. First thing was to pull out the old molding and built-in and welp At least it isn't plaster and lath underneath! My house is the same way, but the wallpaper is over a hundred years old so I actually think it's pretty cool. It's like an archeological dig dating the layers. This was underneath my 1940's era cabinets when I ripped some out to install a dishwasher: 
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 12:29
|
|
|
Hanging drywall isn’t too terrible, just grab some friends that know what they’re doing and supply ample amounts of beer.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 12:33
|
|
|
So, what kind of person do I call about a bathroom vent that needs replaced? The light in it quit working, the fan is dirty and gross looking, and it's venting into the attic instead of outside.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 13:12
|
|
|
Lysandus posted:So, what kind of person do I call about a bathroom vent that needs replaced? The light in it quit working, the fan is dirty and gross looking, and it's venting into the attic instead of outside. If you aren't confident in doing it yourself I would start with an electrician. Is there existing duct work from the attic to the outside for the vent?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 13:58
|
|
|
Sock The Great posted:If you aren't confident in doing it yourself I would start with an electrician. No there's not.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 14:15
|
|
|
Sock The Great posted:If you aren't confident in doing it yourself I would start with an electrician. Skip the electrician, look for a basic bathroom contractor. There probably won't be any new wiring required, and any decent bathroom guy should be able to run a duct through the exterior wall. This is a very basic job.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 14:17
|
|
|
Lysandus posted:No there's not. Definitely want to get that ducted to the outside, otherwise you're just venting hot moisture into your attic which causes mold to grow. It's certainly a very doable task if you feel up to it, and there's tons of people who can give advice here or in the fix it fast thread
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 14:59
|
|
|
deep web creep posted:Closed on a house last Friday but we're not moving in until the end of next month, so the plan is to put some work into the house. New floors, paint the walls, a few little upgrades here and there. First thing was to pull out the old molding and built-in and welp Spray bottle of hot water with a couple tablespoons of dish soap. SOAK it, especially the edges. Drink a beer. Come back and soak it again. Drink half a beer. Start removing what will come off with a plastic scraper. Repeat spraying, wait, scrape. Finish by scrubbing the walls with hot water and TSP to get the remainder of the glue off.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 15:43
|
|
|
meat police posted:Hanging drywall isn’t too terrible, just grab some friends that know what they’re doing and supply ample amounts of beer. Hanging drywall is fine, but gently caress finishing it. I hate mud and tape and feathering and sanding. Paying contractors to deal with drywall is 100% a decision I can get behind.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 16:04
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hanging drywall is fine, but gently caress finishing it. I hate mud and tape and feathering and sanding. Paying contractors to deal with drywall is 100% a decision I can get behind. Yeah this exactly. Getting perfectly level, good-looking drywall is difficult, time consuming, and if you're bad at it like I am, means a half inch of drywall dust over the entire house before it even starts to look decent. If I only need to deal with the corner and the ~3" on top where the crown molding was I can struggle through it. I'm going to put wainscoting in the dining room anyway so I won't have to deal with anything below waist level or so as long as its sealed. Motronic posted:Spray bottle of hot water with a couple tablespoons of dish soap. SOAK it, especially the edges. Drink a beer. Come back and soak it again. Drink half a beer. Start removing what will come off with a plastic scraper. Repeat spraying, wait, scrape. I think this wallpaper has defeated me -- After another evening of working at it I've gotten most of the top two exposed layers off. The upper-left side of the wallpaper in the picture looks like drywall, but it's a another layer of wallpaper painted in what I think is an oil-based sealant (because water and stripper aren't doing anything to it), and I'm starting to gouge out the drywall itself. Also tried a trick I learned where you soak those t-shirt material rags in dilute gel and stick the shirts to the wallpaper for ~10 minutes. Normally this makes the wallpaper basically fall off, but nothin doin here.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 17:38
|
|
|
deep web creep posted:but nothin doin here. Good lord. With a bunch of oil paint and poo poo on it yeah.....don't even bother trying a steamer. It's either new drywall or a match remodel.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
We have some wallpaper to remove in the next several years. If the nursery was any guide to expect, wallpaper on unprimed walls. It was a pain in the rear end. I used a detachable Shark steam mop with the triangle attachment. I'd spend a few hours at a time on a weekend (when we weren't doing something), get sick of it, and dragged it out a month or two. There were plenty of gouges to fill. While I was dragging it out, my wife heard from someone that they wouldn't torture themselves like that and would just throw up 1/4" drywall. That seemed like a cheap way out to me but now I'm not so sure. Any thoughts on that approach?
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 19:06
|
|
|
When trying to talk to a contractor what information should I go in with to try and get a good estimate? Closing on a house at the end of April and wanted to get some remodeling done but don't know how much we can do based on our budget. edit: I guess how much do I need to know for what I want to do? Example, for a bathroom remodel should I go in knowing exactly what type of shower/tile/layout I want down to the square footage? Etrips fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 20, 2018 |
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 22:32
|
|
|
Etrips posted:When trying to talk to a contractor what information should I go in with to try and get a good estimate? Closing on a house at the end of April and wanted to get some remodeling done but don't know how much we can do based on our budget. Not exact, but you need to know the difference and your wants between things like $1 a square foot tile and $10 sq foot tile, and a tub/shower insert compared to a tiled shower with glass walls/door.
|
|
#
?
Mar 20, 2018 23:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Not exact, but you need to know the difference and your wants between things like $1 a square foot tile and $10 sq foot tile, and a tub/shower insert compared to a tiled shower with glass walls/door. Yeah, this. I'm just wrapping up a total gut and rebuild of my bathroom. You basically need to know what you're moving and replacing (e.g. cabinetry, tub, etc), what basic surface coverings you want, and where, and other added features or significanthanges. The "core" of most renos is all pretty much the same. Hanging drywall, painting, basic plumbing or electrical work. The costs start to add up if you're looking at nicer or non-standard cabinetry, tiling, etc. Like, for flooring, do you want ceramic tile, a floating click-together vinyl plank, grouted luxury vinyl tile, etc. These all have different installation needs, material costs, and installation times. Remember that you can also change what you said initially, depending on your contractor timeline. Don't fret about having everything picked out and color coordinated for an estimate. Estimates are flexible and will give you a ballpark number to work with if you choose to change something.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 03:09
|
|
|
Okay, I figured as much. Wife tried reaching out to a bunch of contractors this week with a list of things we wanted to be done without specifics and did not get a reply.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 04:08
|
|
|
Etrips posted:Okay, I figured as much. Wife tried reaching out to a bunch of contractors this week with a list of things we wanted to be done without specifics and did not get a reply. Like anything house related, finding a good contractor is like pulling teeth. I've honestly found word of mouth is the best bet. Ask friends and family, or even something like NextDoor. If a guy is booked for 2-3 months before they can start your job, that's generally a good sign.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 11:05
|
|
|
LogisticEarth posted:Like anything house related, finding a good contractor is like pulling teeth. I've honestly found word of mouth is the best bet. Ask friends and family, or even something like NextDoor. We are moving out a good deal away to a more rural area, where unfortunately we do not have any contacts. And NextDoor isn't pulling up the neighborhood with the address we are buying the area since it is mostly just farmland or something. Did ask for a recommendation from our real estate agent and home inspector last night though, so we shall see!
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 11:18
|
|
|
Yeah that's the biggest problem with living in a rural area: few contractors available and the ones who will be around will try to rip you off or just be meth heads and halfass the job for a few hours before disappearing. Try to be as self sufficient as possible, or just be prepared to spend fucktons of money.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 18:46
|
|
|
Pryor on Fire posted:Yeah that's the biggest problem with living in a rural area: few contractors available and the ones who will be around will try to rip you off or just be meth heads and halfass the job for a few hours before disappearing. I wouldn't say this is a universal, and you have the opposite problem in suburban areas: Tons of poo poo, high turnover contractors feeding off the clueless McMansion/BMW crowd. It also depends on how "rural" we're talking. Often you'll get a guy who knows what he's doing, but does the work in the evenings as a second job, and basically operates by word of mouth. Bottom line is, just don't go on Angie's List or something and stop there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 19:04
|
|
|
LogisticEarth posted:I wouldn't say this is a universal, and you have the opposite problem in suburban areas: Tons of poo poo, high turnover contractors feeding off the clueless McMansion/BMW crowd. It isn't super rural or anything, there are two medium-sized towns within 30 minutes. Aside from Angie's list and possible referrals from the home inspector/real estate agent, what other revenues do I have to look? Porch?
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 19:14
|
|
|
Neighbours? Conversation at a local pub? PO? Can you see who's pulling permits in your area? I don't know how public that stuff is.
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 19:15
|
|
|
Etrips posted:It isn't super rural or anything, there are two medium-sized towns within 30 minutes. Aside from Angie's list and possible referrals from the home inspector/real estate agent, what other revenues do I have to look? Porch? Not to be overly snarky, but basically don't be a goon and talk to people. Presumably you'll run into neighbors, friends, and co-workers. You could also look up local supply places and go there. Our guy (who was referred via family) used long-standing local cabinetry, flooring, and tile suppliers. When I was picking final product out, they all seemed to know him by name. Did I get rock bottom prices? Probably not. But I did get better work and materials from people who were highly responsive and used to working together. Worth it's weight in gold when you only have one bathroom and are tearing it out to the studs. Red flags include: "I can start next week and get it done in (very short time)" "I have a guy I work with at Lowe's who will order everything for you" *Verbal estimate is wildly different than printed estimate*
|
|
#
?
Mar 21, 2018 19:53
|
|
|
I want to install a motion flood light on the side of my garage. I've DIY'd lots of different projects, but the only electrical projects I've tackled have been replacing existing fixtures, ceiling fans etc; hence the wiring has been a no brainer. So I already have overhead lighting inside the garage, with easy access to the existing wiring, junction boxes etc. Is there a easy to follow how-to guide on running additional wiring off the existing junction box?
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:19
|
|
|
I know how to repair several basic parts of my dryer now. I resent this knowledge.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:23
|
|
|
If you have a lot of sunlight there are also solar powered motion flood lights that you wouldn't have to hook into anything.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:27
|
|
|
Sock The Great posted:I want to install a motion flood light on the side of my garage. I've DIY'd lots of different projects, but the only electrical projects I've tackled have been replacing existing fixtures, ceiling fans etc; hence the wiring has been a no brainer. Go to your library and check out this book: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Wiring, Updated 7th Edition: Current with 2017-2020 Electrical Codes (Black & Decker Complete Guide) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760353573/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DnrUAbCMY90HM That'll cover everything you need to know about electrical from the ground up with easy pictures, diagrams, and descriptions. Otherwise it's a very easy job to install a new work box for the light, measure out and snip a length a 14g (or 12g depending on the circuit) nomex, and twist the hot, ground, and neutral into an existing box on a circuit that has capacity (which shouldn't be an issue, especially if it's an LED light being added to an existing lighting circuit), and staple the wire along the rafters or joists, and just drill through be the wall to the exterior box where you want to install the light. I'd tie this circuit into the same box as the light switch or an existing electric recepticle in the garage so it's always on and not switched (like if you tied it into a ceiling light that was operated by a switch in the garage). Also be careful where/how/if you drill through joists, and there are other requirements for unfinished spaces like the cables may need to be protected, eg with conduit etc etc. The book should cover everything you need to know to do it safely and up to code. There's also a wiring thread with real electricians you can ask specific questions in as well.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:46
|
|
|
Sock The Great posted:I want to install a motion flood light on the side of my garage. I've DIY'd lots of different projects, but the only electrical projects I've tackled have been replacing existing fixtures, ceiling fans etc; hence the wiring has been a no brainer. Get the Black & Decker Complete Guide to Wiring. It'll cover everything you need to know. It's not complicated, but there's a Right Way to do it and you don't want to do it wrong. But basically, assuming your overhead lights aren't in a too-small box (there's a limit on how many wires you can have in one junction box), you should just be able to slap in a new wire running off of the closest box, out to a junction box on the interior of the wall, which runs through to a junction box on the outside of the wall, which you mount your light to.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:48
|
|
|
OSU_Matthew posted:Go to your library and check out this book: Anyone know if there's a version of this with Canadian code information? I assume there are some differences.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 16:53
|
|
|
Plumbing budget question for a master bath I'm taking down to the studs. I'm looking to get the plumbing for: - the toilet moved about 4 feet - the shower moved about 10 - a tub added off of the shower sight unseen, how Insanely Owned am I gonna get on this? This sort of stuff qualifies as real rear end plumbing to me and not something I'm willing to gently caress with as a DIY project
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 23:21
|
|
|
deep web creep posted:Plumbing budget question for a master bath I'm taking down to the studs. I'm looking to get the plumbing for: Is this in a poured concrete foundation or anything-else? One is  and the other is "just" a complete bathroom remodel. If you're already redoing the floors and walls the raised foundation / second floor moves are cheap and easy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 26, 2018 23:31
|
|
|
The bathroom is the most expensive room per square foot to do work too and it isn't even close. I would say 7,000 to 25,000 smackers is typical but you need to say if you are going whole hog real stone or something else. You can easily exceed 25k without trying too hard if you pick what you really want.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 00:02
|
|
|
deep web creep posted:Plumbing budget question for a master bath I'm taking down to the studs. I'm looking to get the plumbing for: Is the floor below your bath unfinished? If not, you’re going to have to rip up at least part of your floor and possibly part of your ceiling to run the sanitary and vent back to the stacks. Water lines might be ok if you’re running them in the same wall, those can be offset sideways in the wall. This is all insanely easier if you have an open ceiling below.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 00:04
|
|
|
I've budgeted out most everything else and, while breathtakingly expensive compared to a lot of other poo poo we're doing, falls within the budget. I'm specifically looking for estimates on hiring someone to re-plumb the bathroom because that's the one thing I haven't been able to get a reasonable idea about. No one I've called is willing to give me a general estimate over the phone -- I get why; I'm just trying to determine if we should get started on this soonish or deal with a working (albeit lovely) bathroom for a while. Second floor bathroom, which will be totally gutted before a plumber comes in. The ceiling in the floor below is above the kitchen dining area. Probably going to be something of a pain in the rear end because it's got lighting, but access shouldn't be too bad. Mercifully, the stack runs through the wall behind the bathroom, so there's that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 00:54
|
|
|
Are you hiring a bathroom contractor, or trying to DIY and just having the plumber do that part? Because if you are hiring someone to redo the bathroom, any decent guy worth his salt should be able to run that plumbing as part of the job. It's basically just making sure everything is pitched right and sealed properly. Really, for a bathroom I have to imagine going with a single contractor will be far more economical than trying to piecemeal it out to specialists. Again, unless you're DIYing most of it and just looking for a plumber and electrician to handle that end.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
deep web creep posted:I've budgeted out most everything else and, while breathtakingly expensive compared to a lot of other poo poo we're doing, falls within the budget. I'm specifically looking for estimates on hiring someone to re-plumb the bathroom because that's the one thing I haven't been able to get a reasonable idea about. No one I've called is willing to give me a general estimate over the phone -- I get why; I'm just trying to determine if we should get started on this soonish or deal with a working (albeit lovely) bathroom for a while. Assuming everything fits together nicely, access is available(the only walls are the ceiling of the kitchen for example), rough in only (pipes and flange, rag where the toilet will go), 0 finish work, and a permit pulled it's probably a day of labor give or take. Materials is a rounding error but 16 man-hours at 75/hour isn't unreasonable for a budgetary sheet. Round to two thousand. (something always comes up.) It's as good an estimate as someone on the phone site unseen could give you.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 03:12
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Materials is a rounding error but 16 man-hours at 75/hour isn't unreasonable for a budgetary sheet. Round to two thousand. (something always comes up.) This is extremely helpful, thank you.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 03:40
|
|
|
Keep in mind that labor costs vary significantly by region and you haven't said where you are. In San Francisco, good luck trying to find a plumber who works for less than $150 an hour; in rural Montana, if you can find a plumber at all he'll probably do the work for $50 an hour and be happy about it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2018 20:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:30 |
|
|
I'm looking at getting solar but need a new roof first. We have an ugly aluminum awning over our 6'x20' front porch that we want to integrate with our existing roof line on the first floor (we have a 2 story but it has that midroof I don't know what the name is). One highly recommended roofer came by when I wasn't home and left a quote of 10k for just the new roof, and ignored the awning replacement. I called him about it and he spent 10 minutes whining about the cost/work of having to convert the awning and quoted me an addition 5 - 6k. I was really turned off by his whining about the job though. It's like the guy doesn't want money. I'm guessing he would have to subcontract it out and doesn't want to get involved with that?
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2018 15:22
|
|
