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We've got a drawer in one of our Kennedy boxes filled with these things : Kennametal, Valenite, Ingersoll. They can be nice when you don't want grubby fingers on your smartphone. No idea if anyone makes anything like those anymore. That one I pulled off of eBay.
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Mar 5, 2018 14:04
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| # ? May 25, 2024 12:41 |
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Nomograms are one of those little bits of genius that I'm glad the rules of maths make possible.
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Mar 5, 2018 15:37
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I have a few cheat sheets printed and hanging on the sides of machines.
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Mar 5, 2018 16:25
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Yooper posted:We've got a drawer in one of our Kennedy boxes filled with these things : You've got a drawer full of them, you say? How much do you want for one?
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Mar 5, 2018 17:15
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Sagebrush posted:You've got a drawer full of them, you say? How much do you want for one? Lemme check and see if we're willing to part.
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Mar 5, 2018 17:46
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Nice clean scans of the spread you’ve got would be an excellent substitute for the originals, if it’s no big hassle for ya 
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Mar 5, 2018 23:58
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Nice clean scans of the spread you’ve got would be an excellent substitute for the originals, if it’s no big hassle for ya I can do this. I eased into letting some of them go and got one of those looks. Lemme scan em and see what I can do about making them printable.
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Mar 6, 2018 00:28
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Nice clean scans of the spread you’ve got would be an excellent substitute for the originals, if it’s no big hassle for ya ...uh....isn't it a slide rule?
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Mar 6, 2018 07:07
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Sagebrush posted:...uh....isn't it a slide rule? It is. A heavy cardstock one. Ill scan in-out and make it so it's printable and retains the relationship of size. Prepare yourselves for the SomethingAwful machining slide rule.  Coming soon. edit : lol http://solo.dc3.com/virtrule/md-speed-feed/virtual-md-speed-feed.html http://solo.dc3.com/virtrule/md-hardness/virtual-md-hardness.html Yooper fucked around with this message at 13:37 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 6, 2018 12:44
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Sagebrush posted:...uh....isn't it a slide rule? ...well that shows that i’m paying close attention e: if scanning the components is practical that’d still be nice, laminating printouts to cardstock and trimming the assembly to fit should still be viable 
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 13:58 on Mar 6, 2018 |
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Mar 6, 2018 13:54
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Yooper posted:It is. A heavy cardstock one. Ill scan in-out and make it so it's printable and retains the relationship of size. Take my money.gif
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Mar 6, 2018 15:21
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Ok, here we go. This is the nicer stuff. I've got a bunch of oil worn, chipped plastic, wormy, icky, nasty poo poo in there too.     This is all from a pocket guide from Morse tool. It's like a miniature machinist handbook with just the good stuff. Spiral bound.  A Valenite calculator, probably the newest thing in the box.   One of many Kennametal calculators. This one is in pretty good shape.  Another one.  The dirtiest one. Lemme know which one you guys want scanned. I'll try to modify the one that looks the best and go from there.
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Mar 6, 2018 20:18
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So I just learned about this thing were you put lube on your grinding belt, anyone tried it? Seen commercial products to beeswax to just Wd-40... Worth trying to extend the life of belts I guess.
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Mar 18, 2018 17:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:So I just learned about this thing were you put lube on your grinding belt, anyone tried it? Seen commercial products to beeswax to just Wd-40... Worth trying to extend the life of belts I guess. I use wax on belts when I sand aluminum. It keeps the chips from gumming up the belt. Ditto with files.
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Mar 18, 2018 18:46
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His Divine Shadow posted:So I just learned about this thing were you put lube on your grinding belt, anyone tried it? Seen commercial products to beeswax to just Wd-40... Worth trying to extend the life of belts I guess. I use WD-40 or regular ol water for this. In production factories with sanding robots, water is the most common since aerosolized anything else is a no-no including aluminum oxide dust.
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Mar 18, 2018 19:00
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sharkytm posted:I use wax on belts when I sand aluminum. It keeps the chips from gumming up the belt. Ditto with files. Beeswax works great on jeweler's saws as well. Way less blade breakage.
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Mar 19, 2018 05:05
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The the rack portion of the "rack and pinion" that lets me change the direction of my snowblower's chute finally wore through today while snowblowing (I live outside Cleveland, OH, and hopefully this will be the last snow). I'm brainstorming methods to repair it, so as a long time reader of this thread, I figured I'd ask you all. Replacement part is out of the question, as the snowblower was built in 1971, and the company has long been extinct. I'd rather not get a new one for next Winter because I love the thing to death (starts on first pull, throws snow, like 25 feet, etc.). I was thinking of trying to weld a bead across the break, and then redrilling and filing the hole again, but I'm not sure that would work. Any ideas on how to repair this would be super appreciated!
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Mar 21, 2018 19:55
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That should work. It will probably break at the repair in the future but that part doesn't seem to have any safety concerns so weld and file till the end of time.
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Mar 21, 2018 21:18
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Looks like you have a lot of good rack left. Is it easier to cut off the chute, clock it to use a fresh part of the rack, and reweld the chute?
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Mar 21, 2018 21:28
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Eek, there's not a lot of meat there to work with is the. How thick is the gear/plate from the side? Could you drill into it from the edge and install hardened pins for the pinion to act against? You'd have to find a length of hard rod the right diameter and dismount that part to drill it from the edge, hammer the pins in and braze/weld them in.
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Mar 21, 2018 21:33
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would it work with flat "teeth"? Make a good drawing and get someone to waterjet you a new one
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Mar 21, 2018 21:42
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bred posted:Looks like you have a good rack
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Mar 21, 2018 22:11
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How often do you actually adjust the chute? If welding that thin rack plate doesn't work out, I might give up and just weld a simple block with a tapped hole directly underneath it so the hole lines up with the rack holes, and then use a bolt or improvised handle with a threaded-rod shank as a clamp. Unscrew and remove it and move the chute manually, screw it back in when it's where you want. You might need to use some threaded rod and a coupler (threadlocked/tack-welded in final position) as a riser to get a tapped hole riiight at the right height underneath the rack so it clamps the rack against a solid face without bending/distorting, but those are easy off-the-shelf parts. If you go that route, you can file the remaining metal web between the holes away to turn it into an arc slot, that way you won't need to remove the clamping screw to adjust the chute in the most common range of use, just loosen it a turn and then tighten when adjusted.
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Mar 21, 2018 23:03
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BlankIsBeautiful posted:The the rack portion of the "rack and pinion" that lets me change the direction of my snowblower's chute finally wore through today while snowblowing (I live outside Cleveland, OH, and hopefully this will be the last snow). I'm brainstorming methods to repair it, so as a long time reader of this thread, I figured I'd ask you all. Replacement part is out of the question, as the snowblower was built in 1971, and the company has long been extinct. I'd rather not get a new one for next Winter because I love the thing to death (starts on first pull, throws snow, like 25 feet, etc.). I was thinking of trying to weld a bead across the break, and then redrilling and filing the hole again, but I'm not sure that would work. Any ideas on how to repair this would be super appreciated! What company made it anyway
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Mar 22, 2018 01:54
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honda whisperer posted:That should work. It will probably break at the repair in the future but that part doesn't seem to have any safety concerns so weld and file till the end of time. That's what I'm thinking. I'm going to pull the chute off after the drat snow is done for the year (we've had snow all through April before), and see if I can somehow either build up a weld, and drill, grind, file to restore it, or maybe just cut the whole rack portion off the chute, make a new one from sheet, and weld it back on. bred posted:Looks like you have a lot of good rack left. Is it easier to cut off the chute, clock it to use a fresh part of the rack, and reweld the chute? The only issue with that is that I need the full rack to turn the chute an entire 180 degrees. Also the portion of the rack that still works is obscenely worn down too, and it'll probably break soon too. cakesmith handyman posted:Eek, there's not a lot of meat there to work with is the. How thick is the gear/plate from the side? Could you drill into it from the edge and install hardened pins for the pinion to act against? You'd have to find a length of hard rod the right diameter and dismount that part to drill it from the edge, hammer the pins in and braze/weld them in. The whole chute including the rack is 11 gauge sheet, so no horizontal drilling. shame on an IGA posted:would it work with flat "teeth"? Make a good drawing and get someone to waterjet you a new one It would definitely work with flat teeth as long as the spacing is correct. It's so thin, 11 gauge as I said, that a waterjet would be overkill. Ambrose Burnside posted:How often do you actually adjust the chute? If welding that thin rack plate doesn't work out, I might give up and just weld a simple block with a tapped hole directly underneath it so the hole lines up with the rack holes, and then use a bolt or improvised handle with a threaded-rod shank as a clamp. Unscrew and remove it and move the chute manually, screw it back in when it's where you want. You might need to use some threaded rod and a coupler (threadlocked/tack-welded in final position) as a riser to get a tapped hole riiight at the right height underneath the rack so it clamps the rack against a solid face without bending/distorting, but those are easy off-the-shelf parts. Actually, I adjust the chute constantly to aim the snow away from obstacles (the house, parked cars, garbage cans, etc.) so the current rack in pinion setup is great because all I have to do is reach down to the crank and give it a couple twists. I'm thinking that a better approach would be to cut the old one off the rest of the chute, use it as a pattern on a piece of new 11 gauge, redrill the holes, and the weld the new one back onto the chute. shovelbum posted:What company made it anyway It's a "Mark Master". From what I can tell it was a cheaper Ariens ripoff. Mechanically it's almost identical (I have a smaller Ariens that I use also), but just made of lighter gauge steel. 8 HP Tecumseh motor. Even for a cheap ripoff, it's done well with some pretty heavy snows (32 inches I think is the record. Yeah, I live in the snowbelt, whee!).
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Mar 22, 2018 02:55
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Mar 22, 2018 04:02
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The new one doesn't have to be 11 gauge (3mm?) If you want to go thicker. Get something harder as well if you are making a new one, there are no end of grades of steel to choose from. Hope you've a good supplier.
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Mar 22, 2018 15:36
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Ambrose Burnside posted:How often do you actually adjust the chute? I would guess you've never used a snowblower before and/or live in a warmer climate.  You constantly have to adjust to throw the snow not on exactly where you're going next or just were. I know there are some that don't have adjustable chutes but it's very nice to be able to choose which direction to shoot it so when the wind picks up it flies directly back in your face. 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Mar 22, 2018 |
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Mar 22, 2018 17:08
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Larrymer posted:I would guess you've never used a snowblower before and/or live in a warmer climate. I've used a lovely little snow-thrower a fair bit but yeah the chute's limited to a couple set angles so i have to consolidate into strips and then do the rest w a shovel 
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Mar 22, 2018 18:13
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Hi fellow snowblower user. I have a mid 1980's Bolen's that is still blowing snow. I've had to machine quite a few replacement parts as Bolens hasn't made snowblowers in quite some time. I'd check with a good snowblower shop though, it's surprising what kind of parts are still available. Mine had a delrin (or some plastic) guide that snapped and oddly enough the local lawnmower shop was able to order this unique little bracket. But god forbid I need a clevis pin ... off to the lathe I go.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:03
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cakesmith handyman posted:The new one doesn't have to be 11 gauge (3mm?) If you want to go thicker. Get something harder as well if you are making a new one, there are no end of grades of steel to choose from. Hope you've a good supplier. Yeah, that's kind of an issue. For most of what I do, I use scrap from our repair garage (I work IT for a trucking company). You'd be amazed at the cool stuff you can do with fender hangers! There are a couple of metal warehouses around, and the main McMaster-Carr distribution center is only about 4 miles from me (although, I rarely use them because of their cost). I'm going to call up, or stop by the metal warehouses and see what they've got that's new. It might be exciting working with something that's not scrap for a change Yooper posted:Hi fellow snowblower user. I have a mid 1980's Bolen's that is still blowing snow. I've had to machine quite a few replacement parts as Bolens hasn't made snowblowers in quite some time. I'd check with a good snowblower shop though, it's surprising what kind of parts are still available. Mine had a delrin (or some plastic) guide that snapped and oddly enough the local lawnmower shop was able to order this unique little bracket. But god forbid I need a clevis pin ... off to the lathe I go. Wow, now that's a name I haven't heard for a while. I used to drive a big Bolens lawn tractor to cut the grass when I was a kid. Didn't even know the name still existed (apparently it's just rebranded MTD now). I'm thinking that a chute off of the same size Ariens would probably work just fine, and there are a couple of mom and pop lawn and garden places around, so I'll check into it. I'm going to take the chute off and have a look at the whole thing to see how the ring's attached. Not 'til I'm sure we won't be getting more snow. Probably Memorial Day.
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Mar 22, 2018 22:18
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I haven't posted any work in a while, and this is not the sort of thing that goes here normally, but it's metal so I think it counts:  It's an 18" fine silver necklace I made a week or so ago.
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Mar 23, 2018 20:06
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Nice! I used to do that kind of thing, but I never got very good at doing the end caps. I assume you fused the rings instead of soldering them?
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Mar 23, 2018 20:12
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Thanks, yeah this was made from 22g wire and the links were fused. I do other work in sterling that is soldered but there's really no need for it on this.
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Mar 23, 2018 20:15
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Boxweave, right? What's the AR?
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Mar 23, 2018 23:22
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Today I tried to bend a 90 in some 0.060" 6061 and after it cracked I found out it was T6 
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Mar 23, 2018 23:41
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M_Gargantua posted:Today I tried to bend a 90 in some 0.060" 6061 and after it cracked I found out it was T6 6061 hates bending. Your outside radius on a bend has to be like 8times material thickness to avoid cracking. Best to use 5053 instead! Still need like 3x though.
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Mar 23, 2018 23:43
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Boxweave, right? What's the AR? It's a loop in loop chain actually, not chainmail.
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Mar 24, 2018 00:05
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M_Gargantua posted:Today I tried to bend a 90 in some 0.060" 6061 and after it cracked I found out it was T6 Almost all 6061 you buy or get given is going to be post heat treat unless it says otherwise. 5052 will prob be worked already. http://www.cumberlandmetals.com/aluminum/minimum-bend-radii/
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Mar 24, 2018 00:27
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| # ? May 25, 2024 12:41 |
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armorer posted:It's a loop in loop chain actually, not chainmail. Yeah, it's kind of like tying rubber bands together -- you make a closed loop, then stretch it out and thread it through the previous closed loop. I think that's a doubled through-two chain there? That is, you have two intersecting loop-in-loop chains at 90 degrees to each other, and each loop goes through two prior loops.
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Mar 24, 2018 02:01
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