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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Since the a/c thread fell into the archives... Hey Motronic, do you want to start a new one for 2018? It is a little early...
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Mar 21, 2018 19:34
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Red_Fred posted:Yeah it’s a wifi one. Dashcommand is worth the $15? I tried Auto Doctor as it was free but couldn’t get it to connect for some reason. I paid less than 10. Worth it for me, I actually like it better than Torque Pro on the Android. It's the only one I've tried on IOS, but it does everything I need it to.
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Mar 21, 2018 20:38
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kid sinister posted:Hey Motronic, do you want to start a new one for 2018? It is a little early... I guess it's that time. I'll at least start it an copypasta the first posts. Edit: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3852329 Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Mar 21, 2018 |
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Mar 21, 2018 23:21
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The Spookmaster posted:We have had my wife's uncles 1985 Monte Carlo in our garage for like 3 years....well he just died and we don't have a clue where he put the key. Right now its in park but I need to get it into neutral to roll it out of the garage so her parents can come get it towed. Any ideas? I don't know much about cars and google has been zero help and I would love my garage back E: I know someone mentioned the dealer cutting a key but I've never gotten them to actually do it, either they don't have the blanks anymore or they never imported their old databases to their new ones and as a result the information is lost to time depending on the manufacturer. I have tried this with 3 different brands. Seems the cutoff is roughly 25 years old. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 21, 2018 |
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Mar 21, 2018 23:32
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kid sinister posted:Hey Motronic, do you want to start a new one for 2018? It is a little early... No, we're using a/c already in the south.
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Mar 21, 2018 23:43
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EightBit posted:No, we're using a/c already in the south. Yes, it's spring time. This must be why I just had to plow a foot of snow off my driveway.
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Mar 22, 2018 00:03
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It is getting warm down here, forecast is mid 60's to 70's for the next week and I had to use my car's AC a couple times already.
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Mar 22, 2018 00:11
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And to be fair: it's goddamn miserable to drive in the snow/cold without AC to help defrost dehumidify windows. So to me it's something that needs to be working all year around regardless of climate.
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Mar 22, 2018 01:01
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Does anyone know a service that can fabricate something out material suitable for use externally on a car like a tail light lens? Something Like polycarbonate but large, like 8 inches by 4 and a half feet and not perfectly flat? I could make a CAD diagram if needed. 3d print shops don't generally do that big. Also, does anyone know where I could get fabricated a custom variation of a car emblem, like the Chevy crossed flags emblem on fenders, but with custom text in good quality?
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Mar 22, 2018 02:46
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BitBasher posted:Also, does anyone know where I could get fabricated a custom variation of a car emblem, like the Chevy crossed flags emblem on fenders, but with custom text in good quality? I doubt any company would touch that. That's in the realm of Cease and Desist territory.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:00
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For the emblem you might be able to find someone on Etsy or another craft site to make you a one-off. Alternatively you may be able to get a machine shop with a CNC machine to cut you one out if you can make a CAD of it. Yeah generally one off stuff won't get a major company's attention, especially if it's not posted online for sale. vv
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Mar 22, 2018 03:05
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BitBasher posted:Does anyone know a service that can fabricate something out material suitable for use externally on a car like a tail light lens? Something Like polycarbonate but large, like 8 inches by 4 and a half feet and not perfectly flat? I could make a CAD diagram if needed. 3d print shops don't generally do that big. A sign shop could do that. kid sinister posted:I doubt any company would touch that. That's in the realm of Cease and Desist territory. Officially, no, but it’s up to the person making the thing to recognise and refuse it.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:06
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Platystemon posted:A sign shop could do that. Yeah, the trick would be to make it close enough to the Chevy logo for people to get the connection, but not so close as to prevent plausible deniability. The odds that anyone who would care would notice it are pretty low, anyway. The car is technically a Chevy so having a Chevy-ish logo wouldn't seem particularly weird unless you were really up close to it.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:09
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Is there any worn out item in the rear suspension that would make accelerating from a stop in the rain especially worse? I got my LS400 when it already was 13 years old with 90k miles on it, but I feel like traction control always kick in while accelerating from a stop when it's wet, unless I really baby it. I just put on new tires today and it's the same thing. The other cars I've recently driven in the rain (GS430, 350Z) don't have it nearly as bad.
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Mar 22, 2018 03:40
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MomJeans420 posted:Is there any worn out item in the rear suspension that would make accelerating from a stop in the rain especially worse? I got my LS400 when it already was 13 years old with 90k miles on it, but I feel like traction control always kick in while accelerating from a stop when it's wet, unless I really baby it. I just put on new tires today and it's the same thing. The other cars I've recently driven in the rain (GS430, 350Z) don't have it nearly as bad. Suspension absolutely can make a huge difference in traction. If your shocks are blown the only resistance to movement will be the springs. What tires did you put on it, though? They might suck in the wet.
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Mar 22, 2018 04:22
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kid sinister posted:I doubt any company would touch that. That's in the realm of Cease and Desist territory. Yeah, okay. That makes sense. I just wanted two that said "LS3 416" or just "416" (or 418 whichever it turns out to be) on the banner with the flags since they don't make one that says that. I can get the 396, 427 or whatever easily, just not that. Platystemon posted:A sign shop could do that. Thanks! Time to call some sign shops this weekend.
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Mar 22, 2018 06:13
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Continuing to prep for towing a U-Haul trailer 650 miles with my 2008 Prius, I installed the ball onto the hitch receiver, but it says to tighten to 160 lb-ft and I don’t have a torque wrench. However, if the lock washer is fully flat, that’s probably a good sign, right? Using a channellock on the base of the ball and a large adjustable wrench for the nut, I’ve tried to put my body weight into it and it won’t tighten anymore. Everything is Curt including the hitch (installed by previous owner), the ball mount, the ball, and the wiring harness. Also, as far as the front brake pads go, does the white or red arrow indicate the relevant part for checking wear? 
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Mar 22, 2018 06:46
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White arrow, that's pointing at the actual friction material on the pad. The red arrow is the pad backing plate, and if it's wearing away, you're a candidate for the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread.
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Mar 22, 2018 06:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:White arrow, that's pointing at the actual friction material on the pad. The red arrow is the pad backing plate, and if it's wearing away, you're a candidate for the Horrible Mechanical Failures thread. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Mar 22, 2018 |
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Mar 22, 2018 07:01
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Deteriorata posted:If all else fails, you should be able to contact a dealer and get a new key based on the VIN. It may take a week or two and cost a couple hundred bucks. It's extremely unlikely that a GM dealer will have the key code for a 1995, much less a 1985. Locksmith is the way to go on this. Keep in mind the locksmith will need to make keys for both the ignition and doors, as this is very much the era when GM had separate keys for both. But a good mobile locksmith should be able to knock it out in an hour, maybe two at most. Others have pointed out the tow options. Motronic posted:Yes, it's spring time. This must be why I just had to plow a foot of snow off my driveway. We whacked 89 the other day.  And since it's spring, it's been raining like a motherfucker (plus a couple of random twisters here and there). I need the ac to dehumidify the interior when it's pouring, that Rain-X "fog prevention" poo poo doesn't work that great when it's 80 degrees and 150% humidity inside the car. Josh Lyman posted:Okay yeah that's what I figured. Do they look like they need replacing anytime soon, or do I need a better photo angle? Those look about half worn (maybe a tad over) to me. You're good (especially on a Prius, pads last forfuckingever on those thanks to regenerative braking). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Mar 22, 2018 |
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Mar 22, 2018 07:20
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So anyone know who the OEM is for shocks and struts on the Cobalt/G5/Ion? I'm guessing Sachs or KYB. My Ionry needs them pretty bad, and I just discovered they're not captive (not trapped inside a spring), so they jumped to the top of my list (i.e. holy poo poo I can do this myself without a spring jumping for joy!). Just wanting to retain OEM ride quality, without going to the dealer for GM-branded stuff. I might replace the rear springs, since the rear end is starting to sag a little (probably won't). I will loving OEM for the clutch would be nice to know too, since I know that's coming sometime this year. I made it to 201k (and counting) on the original. I'd rather just go OEM and know it'll last, instead of questionable and have it last, oh, a handful of aggressive launches. I'm assuming Sachs is the OEM, since they do a ton of OEM clutches, but that's just a guess. e: 2006 Saturn Ion 2.2L coupe. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:50 on Mar 22, 2018 |
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Mar 22, 2018 09:47
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Josh Lyman posted:Continuing to prep for towing a U-Haul trailer 650 miles with my 2008 Prius, I installed the ball onto the hitch receiver, but it says to tighten to 160 lb-ft and I don’t have a torque wrench. However, if the lock washer is fully flat, that’s probably a good sign, right? Using a channellock on the base of the ball and a large adjustable wrench for the nut, I’ve tried to put my body weight into it and it won’t tighten anymore. Everything is Curt including the hitch (installed by previous owner), the ball mount, the ball, 160 ft/lbs is tight as gently caress. If you don't have a cheater bar or a pipe to make one for the wrench you're using I wouldn't sweat it too much. Re-torque it periodically during your trip if you're paranoid.
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Mar 22, 2018 13:06
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Breakfast Feud posted:160 ft/lbs is tight as gently caress. If you don't have a cheater bar or a pipe to make one for the wrench you're using I wouldn't sweat it too much. Re-torque it periodically during your trip if you're paranoid. This, but I will add that you’ll never be able to hold on to the channel locks tightly enough to get to 160ft-lbs. Get an actual wrench that’s sized to the ball.
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Mar 22, 2018 13:21
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Suspension/steering wear question for a 2013 Forester at 115k mikes. Hitting a bump while turning results in an unnerving floating sensation. Steering input seems fine and so do the shocks when going over a bump in a straight line. Other than jacking up and wiggling the tie rods, any other suspect bushings I should check out if the tie rods are fine?
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Mar 22, 2018 18:05
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Wrar posted:Suspension absolutely can make a huge difference in traction. If your shocks are blown the only resistance to movement will be the springs. Sumitomo HTR Z III, which I don't think should suck in the rain (they're summer tires, but it's rarely even in the 40s here), but I know for sure my shocks are way past due. I'm getting new shocks put on today, and it's pouring rain, so I guess I'll see if that was the answer.
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Mar 22, 2018 18:08
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Josh Lyman posted:Continuing to prep for towing a U-Haul trailer 650 miles with my 2008 Prius, I installed the ball onto the hitch receiver, but it says to tighten to 160 lb-ft and I don’t have a torque wrench. However, if the lock washer is fully flat, that’s probably a good sign, right? Using a channellock on the base of the ball and a large adjustable wrench for the nut, I’ve tried to put my body weight into it and it won’t tighten anymore. Everything is Curt including the hitch (installed by previous owner), the ball mount, the ball, and the wiring harness. The ball coming loose isn't what worries me when towing. I'm much more paranoid about the safety chains, the electrical connection (I want 100% functional brake lights and turn signals), and the trailer's tires. There are lots of horror stories about pulling U-haul trailers out there, but nobody bothers to write an angry blog post about their boring trip where nothing bad happened. In my experience, even the toothless part-time employee at the U-haul franchise in the back of the independent garage has done a good enough job of setting up the trailer for me. smax posted:This, but I will add that you’ll never be able to hold on to the channel locks tightly enough to get to 160ft-lbs. Get an actual wrench that’s sized to the ball.
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Mar 22, 2018 18:26
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MomJeans420 posted:Sumitomo HTR Z III, which I don't think should suck in the rain (they're summer tires, but it's rarely even in the 40s here), but I know for sure my shocks are way past due. I'm getting new shocks put on today, and it's pouring rain, so I guess I'll see if that was the answer. If it's above 45 they should really good in the rain. I had summer tires on my WRX and the further below 40 it was the worse they were, especially in the wet.
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Mar 22, 2018 18:39
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How much rust is too much rust? I've been wanting a smaller and lighter truck for desert and mountain camping than my work F350. My brother bought a Prius, and was going to junk his 99 4Runner, but asked me if I wanted to take a stab at it. Low miles (150k) but it had been in New England for its entire life; I knew it was going to be rusty but I've never seen anything like it. Check engine light is on, which is an auto smog fail. It is the 2nd gear transmission solenoid, but I can't get the cover off due to the rust. Several applications of PB blaster and I still broke two bolts. I stopped there. The suspension is severely rusted and would need replaced. Neighbor is owner of a offroad shop; they looked at it for free and gave it better than even odds that the mounting points would break when changing out the rear suspension. Now I'm paranoid I'm going to get 20 miles from a phone and the rear end collapse on me. There's a handful of smaller easier repairs (calipers replaced, valve gaskets, new radiator) but I don't think they're worth pursuing at this point. Everyone and everything is telling me to get rid of this vehicle. Thing is, I really enjoy the size and feel of the truck, it ate our snow this winter, and now I kind of have an itch for a solid one. My kind of perfect weekend getaway truck. I'll register it as non-op and look for a deal on a similar 4Runner. Right now I'm seeing $8-$10k with another 50k miles. That's kind of depressing. I'm figuring with the rust the resale value is zero, but maybe I can strip it down for parts and re-use if I can get a similar year/model. Any suggestions? Body is fine, interior in great shape. Tires have some life left but nothing to write home about.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:09
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In my experience of looking, the only people looking for 3rd gens are enthusiasts or people shopping for a teenager (meaning they aren't going to pay the 7k+ premium). And anyone with half a brain shopping for a 4runner is going to look underneath first, if the rust is that bad I doubt you will find any takers. Parting it out is probably all you can do
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Mar 22, 2018 20:20
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Yeah I'd feel guilty selling it to anyone. Maybe if a dealer had one of those old "push it, tow it, limp it in" trade in deals that you used to see advertised. I'm not looking to make a buck off it, just wondering if there's common parts worth ripping off if I can get another Gen3.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:33
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:So anyone know who the OEM is for shocks and struts on the Cobalt/G5/Ion? I would think any shock that isn't from a performance brand or product line and isn't some Chinesium crap will match the OEM ride quality. RockAuto shows AC Delco as "GM Original Equipment" but  at $120 each for the fronts I'd definitely be looking at the KYB GR/2s at ~$80 each.
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Mar 22, 2018 20:50
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pumped up for school posted:Yeah I'd feel guilty selling it to anyone. Maybe if a dealer had one of those old "push it, tow it, limp it in" trade in deals that you used to see advertised. I'm not looking to make a buck off it, just wondering if there's common parts worth ripping off if I can get another Gen3. You could probably get a couple hundred, if not more off eBay from some enthusiasts looking to part it or a donor engine. I myself am tempted to offer to take it off your hands for transportation + finders fee... But in elbows deep in house renovation so a new fabrication project is probably not in my best interest...
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Mar 22, 2018 23:14
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A friend of my family gave me a used car and it's a manual transmission and I have a lot of stupid questions. It's a 2003 Audi A4 1.8L turbo and it's a 4-cylinder. The previous owner told that the engine has been replaced and since then it's been acting funny. I havent been able to get more details. She also said that 3rd is when it starts wobbling because that's when the turbo kicks in. It does wobble quite a bit. I had to replace the battery earlier today. Luckily there was an auto place across the street from the 711 I was stranded at. Since I changed the battery, the wobble has gotten worse (because the battery mount is missing??). I got it yesterday and had never driven manual before that so my Mom showed me how it works for the most part. Today, I figured out the clutch bite point and can start the car most times without stalling 20x first. Sometimes, if I shift down, the front of the car pulls down. Is that normal? How do I not do that? I also feel like I stall way more than I should. I can idle pretty well, but the going on a green is difficult. If I'm at a red light and stopped, I try to find the bite point before the green. Is it okay to sit on the bite point at a light with my foot on the brake? The stereo works great though.
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Mar 22, 2018 23:17
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Eat The Rich posted:A friend of my family gave me a used car and it's a manual transmission and I have a lot of stupid questions. Mainly you need to practice. You'll get better as time goes by. Find a big empty parking lot and practice getting started. When you can be so gentle with the clutch to get the car going in 1st gear without even touching the gas, you're most of the way there. The turbo kicks in based on engine speed, generally about 2500 RPM. Whatever wobble you're experiencing is probably due to the overall speed of the car rather than any specific gear. If there is a pronounced wobble that only appears in 3rd gear, you probably have a serious transmission problem. The wobble has nothing to do with the battery unless it's actually loose and flopping around under the hood. Riding the clutch with the brake on will burn up the clutch in a hurry. Don't do it. Leave the car in neutral when idling with your foot off the clutch. When you want to go, push in the clutch, put it in gear, give it a little gas, and then gently release the clutch to get going.
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Mar 22, 2018 23:25
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm definitely gonna put some tunes on and practice in the parking lot this weekend. It wobbles in any gear if the RPMs are high enough. Oh and before, it didn't have a factory battery in, just some random car battery. Really glad I caught that immediately.
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Mar 22, 2018 23:39
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More Ram van fun: 1: I seem to have a shy engine code. I'll get a CEL, but when I do the key voodoo to get it to blink a code at me, it goes away. Can I assume it's not super important? I hate to be the guy driving around with a CEL forever but it's not cooperating. (I have repeated this process a few times now) 2: PO replaced the entire exhaust and omitted the cat(s). My state doesn't care, is this a legal issue if I drive into, say, California? 3: I have a ton of electrical/wiring questions for the conversion work I'm going to do on it, is there a better thread for that than this one?
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Mar 22, 2018 23:45
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Eat The Rich posted:
Welcome to the wonderful world of engine braking! You're engaging the engine in a lower gear so the engine has to spin up to speed to match the transmission and that energy is taken from your forward momentum, making the nose dip just like when you brake. Edit: to not do that, downshift later
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Mar 22, 2018 23:55
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Javid posted:More Ram van fun: 2. It is not.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:24
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Javid posted:More Ram van fun: Probably easiest to start a thread to deal with the electrical, especially if you're going to be working on multiple parts of the system. Diagrams and talking take up lots of space here and it'll be easier to keep track of in its own thread. I don't think there's a dedicated electrical thread.
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Mar 23, 2018 01:04
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Eat The Rich posted:A friend of my family gave me a used car and it's a manual transmission and I have a lot of stupid questions. I'm having a hard time parsing 'wobble' in automotive context. Like the car shakes uncomfortably or just the engine makes a bunch of noise? I wouldn't worry about shifting down at all until you are comfortable with the manual transmission itself, later you can work on more journeyman-stuff like rev matching and downshifting. The car diving down (and the engine going vvVVVRRRRMMM) is as tactlessbastard says, you are engine braking. Using the mass of the engine to slow down the car because you are engaging the clutch, forcing the forward movement into the weight of your engine, slowing you down. To avoid this you revmatch, that is rev your engine (with the clutch in) to match the speed that the clutch will engage in giving you a smooth engagement. This takes practice and requires you to know whatever car you are driving because you'll do it using audio cues and 'feel' rather than looking at your RPM gauge. Kind of like touch typing, it's a skill you learn by feel. You don't have to downshift when stopping though, you can just clutch in and brake normally. The only time I downshifted when starting with a manual was when turning corners, most cars at most speeds will want 2nd or 3rd gear when doing this, from there you can start to build up your revmatch feel.
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Mar 23, 2018 01:39
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