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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Ducati owners are dipshits I guess. It's this. 90% are dipshits and the rest, at least here, are middle aged men who want a *~two wheeled Ferrari~* and have no idea what they're doing. HenryJLittlefinger posted:There's this dude that rides his 1299 to the gym I go to and he occasionally shows up in my favorite hot power yoga class, where he just does his own poo poo that's barely even yoga while everyone else has their poo poo together and follows the instructor. He's always really sweaty and takes his shirt off and just fuckin drips everywhere and does these goofy bounce stretches and can't even maintain a basic chair or tree pose for 30 seconds without stopping and going "PPPSSssshhhhffffffff" and toweling himself off dramatically. Then he goes out to his bike, which he parks right against the front of the building, which is entirely glass, and starts it with the loving cans aimed at the window and lets it idle for 3 minutes while he futzes around with his dipshit open face helmet and looks at his reflection in the glass, on the other side of which is a gym full of people. Incredible.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:26
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| # ? Jun 3, 2024 08:34 |
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Ducati is such a halo brand that just about everyone who hasn't ridden wants one. They've seen it in movies, magazines, and in their dreams. I feel like 9/10 people who know nothing about bikes but take interest in mine will proclaim that they "want a ducati!". Myself, included, before I got my endorsement. So you get all these people making a beeline for the dealership to sign up for a ducati, despite it being a bad fit for them. From there it's just a bunch of new riders on way too much bike without the humility to snag a 250. See Also: Harley Davidson. HenryJLittlefinger posted:There's this dude that rides his 1299 to the gym I go to and he occasionally shows up in my favorite hot power yoga class, where he just does his own poo poo that's barely even yoga while everyone else has their poo poo together and follows the instructor. He's always really sweaty and takes his shirt off and just fuckin drips everywhere and does these goofy bounce stretches and can't even maintain a basic chair or tree pose for 30 seconds without stopping and going "PPPSSssshhhhffffffff" and toweling himself off dramatically. Then he goes out to his bike, which he parks right against the front of the building, which is entirely glass, and starts it with the loving cans aimed at the window and lets it idle for 3 minutes while he futzes around with his dipshit open face helmet and looks at his reflection in the glass, on the other side of which is a gym full of people. This is amazing.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:41
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Coydog posted:Ducati is such a halo brand that just about everyone who hasn't ridden wants one. They've seen it in movies, magazines, and in their dreams. I feel like 9/10 people who know nothing about bikes but take interest in mine will proclaim that they "want a ducati!". Myself, included, before I got my endorsement. The worst thing is that while Harleys are huge and expensive, at least they're slow and soggy whereas Ducatis all have such massively learner-unfriendly setups it really makes no difference how much power they have. A monster 659 understeers into a ditch just as well as an 1100. And that's not even getting into the service/repairs aspects of it all.
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Mar 23, 2018 00:47
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Razzled posted:either cut a slot into them with a dremel and flat head em out or penetrating lube + pliers/channelocks. they shouldn't be on there that tight anyway. This is what I ended up doing. I had the Thumpertalk Allen head screws on the way already, and a backup set in the carb rebuild kit. It needed a new float bowl gasket badly. And now I am less scared of carbs! Cleaned and reassembled. Bike fired up for the first time since fall. Running very lean but I’ll chalk that up to ‘I lost the hose clamp on the air box side of the carb.’
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Mar 23, 2018 02:57
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I also lost that clamp, no loving clue where it went. I ended up just tying it on with safety wire lol
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Mar 23, 2018 03:22
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Coydog posted:Ducati is such a halo brand that just about everyone who hasn't ridden wants one. They've seen it in movies, magazines, and in their dreams. I feel like 9/10 people who know nothing about bikes but take interest in mine will proclaim that they "want a ducati!". Myself, included, before I got my endorsement. I have loved the look of HD Softails since I was a kid, especially the Fatboy (also loved the sound of Harleys). So when I decided to get my bike license, it was definitely with a view to a VStar 650 or similar. Then on the first day of pre-learners training we sat on our little CBF250s and I instantly realised that this riding position is the only one which makes any sense, and the desire to own a cruiser left me immediately. Never looked back.
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Mar 23, 2018 04:07
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I test rode an Indian Scout and I can definitely see the appeal of the laid back cruiser position if you're not going very fast. That said it feels more like you're just going along with the bike rather than actually controlling it. It was also kind of funny to accidentally scrape the pegs at 50km/h.
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Mar 23, 2018 10:50
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Slavvy posted:The worst thing is that while Harleys are huge and expensive, at least they're slow and soggy whereas Ducatis all have such massively learner-unfriendly setups it really makes no difference how much power they have. A monster 659 understeers into a ditch just as well as an 1100. And that's not even getting into the service/repairs aspects of it all. I thought the Multistrada was super easy to ride and comfy, and the Hyper was an amazing and simple bike to ride at any speed. OTOH I'm sure many people will gravitate to stuff like the 959 Pani which I was ready to give back after 20 minutes.
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Mar 23, 2018 17:42
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:There's this dude that rides his 1299 to the gym I go to and he occasionally shows up in my favorite hot power yoga class, where he just does his own poo poo that's barely even yoga while everyone else has their poo poo together and follows the instructor. He's always really sweaty and takes his shirt off and just fuckin drips everywhere and does these goofy bounce stretches and can't even maintain a basic chair or tree pose for 30 seconds without stopping and going "PPPSSssshhhhffffffff" and toweling himself off dramatically. Then he goes out to his bike, which he parks right against the front of the building, which is entirely glass, and starts it with the loving cans aimed at the window and lets it idle for 3 minutes while he futzes around with his dipshit open face helmet and looks at his reflection in the glass, on the other side of which is a gym full of people.
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Mar 23, 2018 19:01
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He will actually be very hot as he watches it burn down in front of the gym.
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Mar 23, 2018 20:33
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Hey all, I need some help. The rear brake on my track bike is poo poo (for lack of a better word). I've bled it a few times, including while moving the calipers above the system so air would bleed out. No matter what I do, I can move the brake pedal all the way to the stop, and while it creates some pressure, it's not nearly enough to brake effectively. It's not a huge problem since I don't use it on the track, but it might be a problem to get past scrutineering (hasn't been before). Basically there is some pressure, but no matter how many times I pump the lever, the pressure doesn't increase. I'm under the impression that if it was just a brake bleed issue, the pressure should increase after a few pumps? Is this correct? I think the problem is the master cylinder needs a new seal, what do you guys think?
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Mar 24, 2018 03:47
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Someone just had a rear brake problem like that. It was a bleeding issue. Some models have rear brake master cylinders that are notorious to bleed correctly due to their mounting positions. If it were an issue with the seal, you'd eventually be seeing brake fluid all over something back there.
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Mar 24, 2018 06:26
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Sometimes it helps to remove the rear caliper and hang it up higher than the master cylinder, so the air bubbles go up. Just make sure you have a spare brake disk or other flat bit of metal between the pads. Tapping it between pumps also helps move the air out.
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Mar 24, 2018 06:47
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Ola posted:Sometimes it helps to remove the rear caliper and hang it up higher than the master cylinder, so the air bubbles go up. Just make sure you have a spare brake disk or other flat bit of metal between the pads. Tapping it between pumps also helps move the air out. Did that, didn't seem to solve the issue. I don't know, how many times and ways do you bleed a brake before deciding that bleeding isn't fixing it? Or is it just a terminally poo poo brake? Might try taking the master cylinder off and flipping it around while pumping it... Edit: No go. Put half a bottle of new DOT4 through it, moving the master cylinder every which way, pumping fast/slow, no difference. Another thing I've noticed is the caliper moves when I'm pressing the lever, like it's not on straight. Bolts holding the caliper are all the way in though? Don't think it should make a difference to braking pressure? Barnsy fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Mar 24, 2018 |
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Mar 24, 2018 07:02
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Barnsy posted:Did that, didn't seem to solve the issue. I don't know, how many times and ways do you bleed a brake before deciding that bleeding isn't fixing it? Or is it just a terminally poo poo brake? I couldn't bleed mine for ages, but once I tried the syringe method it finally worked. Even that was a pain. But it could of course be the seal. In theory, a very bad seal means the fluid level doesn't change when you move the lever, a slightly bad seal means fluid drops, but then flows back as brake pressure eases while you hold the lever depressed. Air in the system means the fluid level drops and stays low, but that pressure gets absorbed in the bubbles. In practice it's really hard to tell. Also in theory you should feel the air spring effect from the bubbles, but in practice the bubbles are so small that you probably won't notice. If you don't have a clever brake bleeding system, consider getting eBaying a syringe or some other vacuum setup, it'll come in handy later anyway so it's not a waste of money. Then if that doesn't work, rebuild time. Syringes are nice because they are dirt cheap and you can use them both to reverse bleed and to pull fluid out, instead of pushing with the brake pedal/lever. I got two so I could drain from the reservoir at the same time.
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Mar 24, 2018 08:19
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Ola posted:I couldn't bleed mine for ages, but once I tried the syringe method it finally worked. Even that was a pain. But it could of course be the seal. In theory, a very bad seal means the fluid level doesn't change when you move the lever, a slightly bad seal means fluid drops, but then flows back as brake pressure eases while you hold the lever depressed. Air in the system means the fluid level drops and stays low, but that pressure gets absorbed in the bubbles. In practice it's really hard to tell. Also in theory you should feel the air spring effect from the bubbles, but in practice the bubbles are so small that you probably won't notice. You mean reverse bleeding? I can easily steal a few syringes from work and give it a go...
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Mar 24, 2018 08:30
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Barnsy posted:You mean reverse bleeding? I can easily steal a few syringes from work and give it a go... Both reverse bleeding, i.e. pushing fluid into the bleed screw, and pulling fluid out of the bleed screw is possible with syringes. Get some big ones, 80 ml or more and some clear tubing which fits snugly. Reverse bleeding is also the easiest way to make air bubbles have a constant upward path, if you place the caliper quite low. I got a very satisfying burp doing this, just kept a gentle push on the syringe while tapping all over the brake line. It will squirt out of the reservoir, cover things up as needed.
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Mar 24, 2018 08:43
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Ok, so I've isolated the problem to the rear caliper. With a rag and a clamp, you feel the pedal go hard immediately, so the master cylinder is fine. There must be an epic bubble in the caliper... I've raised it up so the valve is at the very top overnight, we'll see if that fixes it. If that doesn't, what else could it be? Is there any way a bad piston seal could do something like this?
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Mar 24, 2018 09:40
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Barnsy posted:Ok, so I've isolated the problem to the rear caliper. With a rag and a clamp, you feel the pedal go hard immediately, so the master cylinder is fine. I suppose fluid would leak through the piston seal if it was bad. Rear calipers can be real jerks, it's probably just a stubborn bubble stuck in some corner. Just leaving it suspended might not work. Turn the caliper every which way and tap it, pump a few times etc.
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Mar 24, 2018 09:47
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There's no fluid leaking, so it must be a bubble. Time to pray to the bubble gods!
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Mar 24, 2018 10:01
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Try pushing the caliper piston back and working it back and forth, it might be seized.
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Mar 24, 2018 19:44
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Slavvy posted:Try pushing the caliper piston back and working it back and forth, it might be seized. Piston moves in and out fine... It'll go all the way out and all the way in. Seems relatively clean too (only 12000km on the bike).
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Mar 25, 2018 01:14
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Well then it has to be air or seized slides if your MC is holding good pressure.
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Mar 25, 2018 01:53
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I might have gotten lost in the details, but could something be physically stopping your brake pedal from actually engaging? Even if you think it's engaged, maybe it's just hanging up on something? Grime?
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Mar 25, 2018 04:14
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Alright. I think I have to try the reverse bleed, no luck with holding it up all night. Is it normal for the caliper to move a bit while pressing the lever? As in, it looks like it's slightly out of alignment (pivots up a tiny bit while pressing the lever). I feel like it should be aligned, which means either a caliper or caliper bracket issue. Reason I'm thinking this may be a problem is the bike was written off a while back due to a rear-ender. Possible the bracket/caliper took a hit? Not that it should solve my bleeding issue...
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Mar 25, 2018 04:17
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It's normal to see it wiggle a bit when you push the lever. Try holding some pressure on with the lever and cracking the MC banjo so some fluid squirts out (obviously surround it with a rag first), close it, build pressure again and repeat a few times. Sometimes air gets trapped in the bolt, the same applies to the caliper banjo. Also if you've got new pads it will feel soft and lovely until they're bedded in. Why haven't you checked the slides yet?
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Mar 25, 2018 04:35
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Slavvy posted:It's normal to see it wiggle a bit when you push the lever. Try holding some pressure on with the lever and cracking the MC banjo so some fluid squirts out (obviously surround it with a rag first), close it, build pressure again and repeat a few times. Sometimes air gets trapped in the bolt, the same applies to the caliper banjo. Pads are the originals from what I can tell. Like I said above, I know the issue is from the caliper. Blocking off the tubes just past the caliper instantly gives good pedal pressure. If I take off the second alignment bolt from the caliper, the brake pedal gets significantly better (not quite as good as when blocking off the caliper). Really think there's some alignment issue, or the PO hosed up the alignment of the threads.
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Mar 25, 2018 06:35
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I'm having a stupid day and managed to overfill my [wet sump] bike with oil by uh, I'm guessing probably about a pint (nominal level 3.7 litres). I remember the spray bottle pump trick and will get to that soon to bring the level down where it should be, but other than it sapping power if it splashes onto the crankshaft are there any major negative effects from having too much oil in my engine?
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Mar 25, 2018 14:50
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"Blowing out the crankshaft seals" is the typical reply, but I don't actually know if it's real or apocryphal.
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Mar 25, 2018 15:09
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Reciprocating parts that shouldn’t be in the oil directly can cause foaming. It’s rare and very engine dependent but it can happen. You shouldn’t see too much more crankcase pressure , really as that’s not a function of oil level to begin with
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Mar 25, 2018 15:21
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Extra oil will blow your piston right up through the head, rocketing you into the air like a bad James Bond villain hit with the ol’ surprise seat ejection.
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Mar 25, 2018 16:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm having a stupid day and managed to overfill my [wet sump] bike with oil by uh, I'm guessing probably about a pint (nominal level 3.7 litres). Don't worry about squirt bottles, pop into your local chemist and buy their biggest syringe and some plastic tubing - it's an amazingly useful thing to have kicking about in your tool kit. Just don't ask what they're normally used for.
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Mar 25, 2018 18:19
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its butts isnt it?
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Mar 25, 2018 19:05
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Ok Judgy Judy. But maybe use it for your butt before you use it for various motorcycle fluids.
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Mar 25, 2018 19:09
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but its printed right on there, "for butts only"
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Mar 25, 2018 19:10
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm having a stupid day and managed to overfill my [wet sump] bike with oil by uh, I'm guessing probably about a pint (nominal level 3.7 litres). It'll fill your air intake with oil if you've got enough in there.
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Mar 25, 2018 19:50
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Fauxtool posted:its butts isnt it? Isn't it always?
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Mar 25, 2018 21:04
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Don't worry about squirt bottles, pop into your local chemist and buy their biggest syringe and some plastic tubing - it's an amazingly useful thing to have kicking about in your tool kit. I did actually go out looking for this in a supermarket auto section, didn't think to try a chemist. Couldn't find one so I ended up coming straight home 'cause I spooked myself that I might be actively damaging the engine somehow. I'm about halfway through removing the extra oil the spray bottle way, 1cc at a time, gonna have to get up early tomorrow before work to do the rest since I park on a hill and couldn't shift the bike to a level spot earlier to be sure I was getting the level right. I super miss having a garage. Totally unrelated, my front brakes are freezing up every time I park and it's doing my head in. Don't know if it's the material of the pads or the pots sticking or something in the fluid causing them to slowly engage when I'm not looking, but it makes the handling for the first half a mile really sketchy.
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Mar 25, 2018 21:25
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Stopped by my friend's backyard shop to examine my bike's recent problem starting. He's currently dealing with a couple of GSXR sport bikes: Apparently he's building a "race motor" for one of them:  From what I've seen helping him him the difference between a normal motor and a regular motor is on the race motor you put the cam shaft on a press and snap it in half  Anyway, I checked the spark plug and it looked OK, which wasn't a huge surprise since I put it in like last year, maybe 4k miles ago? How long does a spark plug last? Who knows! but since I didn't have a replacement plug I was primed to accept its condition regardless. Well regardless I got the valve cover gasket off the engine, but how to actually check the the valve clearance? I've seen it done a few times and I know you basically pick the right thickness feeler gauge and slide it between the valve, searching ofr just the right amount of drag, but what really is the first step? Fortunately someone was kind to me recently so I have the perfect resource, a shop manual:  Ok, so that doesn't look hard. Take the two covers off, turn the engine over until the timing mark lines up, making sure that also the lines on the sprockets at the top tell you that the cam shaft isn't 180 degrees the wrong way. So I'll just -  gently caress. gently caress! That's after trying the best fit screw drivers I could find (which tore up both covers andand didn't even loosen the smaller one) then pliers holding a huge washer (which bent inside the smaller cover). I decided I'm not going to gently caress with it further until I buy both a pair of replacement covers and whatever tool actually takes them off correctly. The bike has been completely fine ever since the issue starting earlier in the week so maybe it was just poor gas. Oh, I didn't check the fuel pressure because I ran out of time. At least I got out to my friend's shop and helped him with the GSXR bikes, he's a great guy and I don't see him enough. I'll check the valve clearances and fuel pressure another time but I'm always so drat gunshy about working on that bike since I always leave the job until Sunday so it has to get done same-day. I tell myself the answer is not to start on Saturday but instead to own two bikes.
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Mar 26, 2018 00:31
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The answer is always two bikes. Everyone has a different way of getting those stupid flat head plugs out; I've never seen an actual tool for it and most people file the edges off a wood chisel or weld a high tensile washer to a rod or similar. I usually use a coin, two of our denominations fit perfectly, but I've also got a jumbo broad impact driver bit that works sometimes. Oh and if you're wondering why they don't make them a normal fastener? There are some bikes that have hex key holes instead and they're always, always, always so overtightened the soft alloy immediately strips out. I'd prefer something that can't be overtightened by retards however hard they try.
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Mar 26, 2018 00:42
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