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canyoneer posted:After 3 rooms of laminate and trim, my saw blade is getting pretty dull and is burning the MDF trim I'm cutting. I've got another room of laminate and trim to do, then it will probably not be used a bunch. If its the original blade that came with the saw, upgrade to a better one imo. edit: of course Mattias has a video on that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5L3XekKIEd8 NPR Journalizard fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Mar 18, 2018 |
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Mar 18, 2018 10:57
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I'm trying to find a decent stand to put a table saw on so I can use my existing work bench as an out feed table. Are there any recommedations for adjustable height stands? The bench is 34" tall and the table saw itself is just a delta bench saw I got used.
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Mar 18, 2018 21:18
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EvilBeard posted:https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Shopping/Catalog/Motor_Controls/Fuji_Contactors_-z-_Overloads/9_to_25_Amp/SC-E05-220VAC Bringing this up again, since you seem to know more than half the GJ posters. Would this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/171796749609 It's cheaper, and doesn't appear to use a thermal melt protection, unlike the Definite Purpose starters like: https://www.zoro.com/i/G4031526/ My motor is am Emerson DP-Compressor Motor, T63BVCKN-1376, which draws 22A at 230VAC The Pressure switch is a SquareD 9013FHG54S198J59, which is actually rated for 24A FLA at 230VAC I've got some start/stop swtiches from WEG before, and they seemed pretty good. Plastic, yes, but UL rated. I've also got a couple of indicator lights so I can tell when the starter has power. Currently, I'm switching everything with the breaker, and I'd like to go to a dedicated on switch with indicator light.
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Mar 19, 2018 04:20
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sharkytm posted:Bringing this up again, since you seem to know more than half the GJ posters. That will work. It's just a simple manual motor starter, instead of being a contactor like the DP Starter you linked from Zoro. Instead of turning it on with a switch on the wall, you'll just do it at the motor stater. It looks like most WEG I can find seem to be UL and IEC rated.
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Mar 19, 2018 05:11
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EvilBeard posted:That will work. It's just a simple manual motor starter, instead of being a contactor like the DP Starter you linked from Zoro. Instead of turning it on with a switch on the wall, you'll just do it at the motor stater. It looks like most WEG I can find seem to be UL and IEC rated. Yeah, it's IEC instead of NMEA, thus the lower price. It IS a contactor, though. CW25 contactor, and RW27 thermal overload relay. The motor has a thermal overload built-in, but it doesn't hurt to have both. I'll get it ordered. I've found a bunch of info on wiring them up, so I should be good. Thanks!
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Mar 19, 2018 14:34
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I need a router for my next project. I was borrowing from my dad, but I'm now too far away to make that feasible. Bought a Dewalt DW618 and a Bosch RA1171 table. That should hold me over until I get up and make my own table to use. No plunge base, because I doubt I'd use it very often. And a plunge base by itself isn't *that* expensive. I still need some bits, but I figure those are better bought in person where I can see the profiles myself. I do good?
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Mar 19, 2018 16:28
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How does a platform truck cost $65 even at Walmart? It's literally a 36"x24" piece of steel, 4 wheels, and a handle.
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Mar 21, 2018 06:34
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Josh Lyman posted:How does a platform truck cost $65 even at Walmart? It's literally a 36"x24" piece of steel, 4 wheels, and a handle. Wheels are expensive. Serious answer.
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Mar 21, 2018 06:49
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Wheels are sold at a premium, especially when they are rated for higher loads.
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Mar 21, 2018 07:47
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Fun little caster story:I was after some wheels for a little garage project a while back and was resigned to paying about £10 each for good wheels rated for the weight I needed when I find an eBay seller doing massive volume discounts, like buy 50 sets of casters for £150. I'd be set for life, what could go wrong? Then I realised they'd be poo poo, I'd never get my money back, so I got some local. Later taking to a guy at work he wanted a big bunch of wheels so I mentioned eBay, volume discounts etc but warned him they'd likely be poo poo. He got them. They were beyond poo poo. Off the top of my head half had balls missing from the bearings, most had miss-cast tyres, all were bent, a fair few were already rusty and there were no end of broken or lovely welds. I doubt he got a good set of wheels out of it.
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Mar 21, 2018 08:05
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My caster story: I needed a custom dolly so I went to the big box store to get supplies. I grab the shiniest lumber cart from out front and head to the caster aisle. I pick out some casters, leave the lumbering cart nearby where it’s not in anyone’s way, and go to the hardware aisle to get the nuts and bolts I need to put the thing together. Some deplorable stole my shiny cart with the last good casters in the store. 
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Mar 21, 2018 08:21
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If you had played enough video games you'd know that you always need to provide cover for your casters
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Mar 22, 2018 07:09
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Okay, that’s a pretty good pun.
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Mar 23, 2018 12:03
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canyoneer posted:If you had played enough video games you'd know that you always need to provide cover for your casters 
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Mar 23, 2018 16:21
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IOwnCalculus posted:Not sure if it's the best thread for this, but - are there any options for a reliable but affordable voltmeter-only device? I need literally no functions other than checking a battery in the 3-5v range. I'd normally just throw a HF freebie at it, but I want one that will actually be accurate more often / will actually throw a low battery alert when its own battery is low and the meter isn't accurate. Just get a cheap analog multimeter for about 10 bucks. They only use the battery for measuring resistance -- voltage and current just go through a stack of calibrated resistors and right into the galvanometer. No need for a battery alarm because it can check its own battery if you think it's dying.
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Mar 24, 2018 22:50
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EvilBeard posted:That will work. It's just a simple manual motor starter, instead of being a contactor like the DP Starter you linked from Zoro. Instead of turning it on with a switch on the wall, you'll just do it at the motor stater. It looks like most WEG I can find seem to be UL and IEC rated.
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Mar 25, 2018 04:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Not sure if it's the best thread for this, but - are there any options for a reliable but affordable voltmeter-only device? I need literally no functions other than checking a battery in the 3-5v range. I'd normally just throw a HF freebie at it, but I want one that will actually be accurate more often / will actually throw a low battery alert when its own battery is low and the meter isn't accurate. An LED voltmeter might be what you want:  They’re powered from the source and draw on the order of ten milliamps
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Mar 25, 2018 06:43
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Can someone recommend some torx screws for masonry/brick/concrete available online? I am in the UK. I don't need them in the hundreds, in the tens will do.
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Mar 27, 2018 22:12
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Steakandchips posted:Can someone recommend some torx screws for masonry/brick/concrete available online? I used to work for a fastener company. For quantities < 100, the shipping will be as much or even more than the item, mostly due to the weight of steel. You'll find that a lot for fasteners that you can't buy locally in small quantities. The local suppliers buy in bulk to save on the shipping costs of that much steel. Your only hope is places that offer free shipping. Speaking of free shipping, Amazon UK has a some options in Torx drive with free shipping. If you do end up having to buy in bulk, at least you'll have spares. True story, I had to fix the windows in my 1950s house when I moved in. The original windows were missing so many clips to hold in the screens that, regarding shipping, it was actually cheaper to buy the pack of 100. The same went for the aluminum screws to hold them in. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 01:17
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My 20v dewalt batteries are either dead and not taking a charge( I left them in a toolbox in my garage all winter) or my charger isn't charging them. When I plug them in I get a blinking red light on the charger which I believe is the sign they're charging, but when I put them on any of the tools they die almost immediately. Is there a way to test each with my multimeter? I don't have access to any known good ones of either.
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Mar 28, 2018 12:48
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I'm clueless about DIY stuff. I'm looking at small hand saws. What does "reversible cutting edge" mean? Does it have to do with wood grain, or right-vs-left-handed, or does it mean something else? Should I care if the saw has this feature? I'm using this guide https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-move-box-spring-narrow-staircase to dismantle a boxspring. Will this saw work? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-15-in-Hand-Saw/1205617 I don't care if it's not the very best tool I could use but will it do? (I will worry about putting it back together later)
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Mar 28, 2018 13:53
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shits.ridic posted:I'm clueless about DIY stuff. I'm looking at small hand saws. What does "reversible cutting edge" mean? Does it have to do with wood grain, or right-vs-left-handed, or does it mean something else? Should I care if the saw has this feature? You're cutting through very small pieces and it doesn't have to be precise, almost any saw will work.
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Mar 28, 2018 14:55
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I'm assuming that since you're looking at going to all this effort, you're set on whatever box spring you have, but I gotta point out that geez, they make smaller box spring units designed to be used in pairs for exactly this reason, like you buy two half-king boxes and everything is great. I think single-piece large-bed boxes are getting less and less common these days.
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Mar 28, 2018 15:07
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^^bruh this is a very narrow and wonky staircaseGounads posted:You're cutting through very small pieces and it doesn't have to be precise, almost any saw will work. Yeah but do you know what reversible cutting edge means? I'm curious, but I can't find a definition online I just get bogged down with links about power saws.
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Mar 28, 2018 15:32
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shits.ridic posted:^^bruh this is a very narrow and wonky staircase Yeah but surely if a human can fit up the stairs, a smaller-than-twin box will fit up. They're surprisingly small. For what size bed are you planning on cutting the box down?
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Mar 28, 2018 15:35
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shits.ridic posted:Yeah but do you know what reversible cutting edge means? I'm curious, but I can't find a definition online I just get bogged down with links about power saws. I'd expect a reversible saw would be either one where you can change it from cutting on the push stroke to cutting on the pull stroke, or one where the sawblade has two sets of teeth, so when one set gets dull you can unmount the blade, flip it around, remount it, and have a fresh set of teeth to work with. But I have to admit that that's not a term I've encountered before on sawblades. What specific product are you seeing this feature on?
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Mar 28, 2018 15:46
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shits.ridic posted:^^bruh this is a very narrow and wonky staircase my guess is that its a saw that you can push and pull through to make your cuts, some saws are pull-through only but most are meant to be used back and forth. here's some info: https://boingboing.net/2014/12/03/an-introduction-to-hand-saws.html https://www.lowes.com/projects/woodworking-and-crafts/hand-saw-buying-guide/article IMO borrow a power saw of some sort, you'd be better off.
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Mar 28, 2018 15:51
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BraveUlysses posted:IMO borrow a power saw of some sort, you'd be better off. But, uhh, does your boxspring not have a series of spring coils that you would have to cut in half and then. . . magically re-join?
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Mar 28, 2018 15:58
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stealie72 posted:You'd be better off with a $20 circular saw from a pawn shop. I can't imagine trying to put a series of inevitably hosed up hand saw cuts back together. A circular saw will give you something closer to a series of straight cuts to put back together. Box springs don't generally have coils, they're more like this inside:  So you'll bend some of those wires, but they can be straightened out okay.
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Mar 28, 2018 16:03
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Bad Munki posted:Box springs don't generally have coils, they're more like this inside:
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Mar 28, 2018 16:20
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No, you cut the wood frame, and bend the wires. That video op posted is a good demonstration and makes it pretty clear. You don’t actually end up with two pieces, just fold it into a different shape.
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Mar 28, 2018 16:25
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah but surely if a human can fit up the stairs, a smaller-than-twin box will fit up. They're surprisingly small. For what size bed are you planning on cutting the box down? I guess I haven't bought a bed in a long time because I didn't know these existed until your post. If it's smaller than a twin, it could work. The stairs in question are hosed, this is an apartment-above-the-garage situation and the design is a headscratcher (don't know who built it originally it's so old). However, the mattress is queen-sized and I'm not sure they put two twins under mattresses that aren't king, but I could be wrong. I currently have a queen and it has a one-piece boxspring... TooMuchAbstraction posted:What specific product are you seeing this feature on? This one, on the features chart. It's just a cheapass little saw but I wondered what they meant. I can't imagine a handsaw that only works one direction so I thought it was something other than just "works on both push and pull" Then again I'm clearly out of my depth and should stop assuming things https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-15-in-Hand-Saw/1205617
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Mar 28, 2018 16:39
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shits.ridic posted:I guess I haven't bought a bed in a long time because I didn't know these existed until your post. If it's smaller than a twin, it could work. The stairs in question are hosed, this is an apartment-above-the-garage situation and the design is a headscratcher (don't know who built it originally it's so old). Just a random product, not recommending this one in particular in any way at all, but: https://www.searsoutlet.com//d/prod...ZYaAqq-EALw_wcB That's 79x30x9, twin mattress is usually 75x38 or so. So it's a few inches longer but significantly narrower. I'm sure they're available for MUCH cheaper than that, too, that seems like a pretty ridiculous price.
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Mar 28, 2018 16:46
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kid sinister posted:I used to work for a fastener company. For quantities < 100, the shipping will be as much or even more than the item, mostly due to the weight of steel. You'll find that a lot for fasteners that you can't buy locally in small quantities. The local suppliers buy in bulk to save on the shipping costs of that much steel. Your only hope is places that offer free shipping. Speaking of free shipping, Amazon UK has a some options in Torx drive with free shipping. Went to my local hardware store, they are ordering me a bag of 10 of each I want, as part of their weekly delivery, so no extra delivery charge. They are a good shop and I am happy to support them. Your window story is absolutely mad! Another question, where can I buy decent wood, for small projects, e.g. a box for holding 6 ink bottles, or a small wooden under-the-desk pedestal? I want it to be proper wood, hopefully oak to match my oak desk. No veneered rubbish!
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Mar 28, 2018 18:56
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Small stuff like that HD has hobby boards that should do the job. Probably not cheapest, but quick and simple. Side note, with a table saw (makes wide boards narrower), miter saw (long boards shorter), planer (thick boards thinner) and a router (plain boards fancier) I should be about done for "major" type tools. Right? Please? My wallet begs for a "yes" answer. Drill press and scroll saw come to mind, but they are more specialty stuff than the above. And I have a drill/driver and a jigsaw to approximate them at least. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 19:22
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My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything?
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Mar 28, 2018 21:01
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Grem posted:My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything? We have a thing like this at work (probably not this exact one) and it works pretty well for tight spaces. Other options: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03044A-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Close-Quarters/dp/B000XYOUS6/ https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/
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Mar 28, 2018 21:13
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Grem posted:My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything? What you're looking for is "offset screwdriver". They're L or S shaped like the Ikea freebie hex wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/ Steakandchips posted:Another question, where can I buy decent wood, for small projects, e.g. a box for holding 6 ink bottles, or a small wooden under-the-desk pedestal? I want it to be proper wood, hopefully oak to match my oak desk. No veneered rubbish! woodworkerssource.com has everything and will let you order in small quantities.
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Mar 28, 2018 21:16
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ilkhan posted:Side note, with a table saw (makes wide boards narrower), miter saw (long boards shorter), planer (thick boards thinner) and a router (plain boards fancier) I should be about done for "major" type tools. Right? Please? My wallet begs for a "yes" answer. If you want to do more "woodworking" type of things, a jointer might be something to consider in the future, but a router + router table can sort of do the job.
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Mar 28, 2018 21:33
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DrBouvenstein posted:If you want to do more "woodworking" type of things, a jointer might be something to consider in the future, but a router + router table can sort of do the job.
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Mar 28, 2018 21:36
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