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A few months ago at work my WASD CODE died from a static shock. I had just walked a laptop cart from the other end of the building, and didn't think to ground myself before touching the keyboard.  I brought in this old Fujitsu FK4725 to replace it:  Somehow when I was testing it at home I failed to notice that the up arrow wasn't working. Today I finally got fed up with having to toggle off numlock to get an up arrow, and opened it up. Luckily it was an easy fix.  When I first flipped it over that sliver of wood was running straight across the plastic cylinder. The spring inside was depressing, but the cylinder wasn't pressing down on the rubber dome. I removed the sliver and all is well  I took some pics of the reassembly:   This backplate is held on with 29 screws. What kind of abuse were they expecting these keyboards to take?    Full res and a few more pics in this gallery. Some of the traces on the capacitive membranes have become discoloured. Is this something I should be worried about? 
Squatch Ambassador fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 06:46
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Constellation I posted:I have em and don't like em (sorry mgsickler) and I'm talking about tactiles not clickies, sir Oh poo poo I thought the discussion was on navies for some reason. Sorry :x
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Mar 28, 2018 09:27
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:They're not that bad, are they? I've heard the retooled Browns are pretty good, at least. Wait so they redid the Mx Brown design? Since when?
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Mar 28, 2018 15:42
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I don't think they changed the design, but they refreshed the tooling sometime last year, I heard. This had the effect of reducing scratchiness of the MX Brown switch, but not much else from what I've heard
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Mar 28, 2018 17:02
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Constellation I posted:Tactile - Almost anything else is better than Cherry Browns. Clears are great, but people also want them lighter, which is what led to "ergo" Clear options which eventually led to things like Zealios Zealios are Gaterons. Also, you forgot MOD switches, which are probably better than Cherry anything.
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Mar 28, 2018 21:27
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I think you misread, what I was saying was, in the tactile world, almost anything is better than MX Brown. For Cherry, you can make an exception for MX Clears, but even with those, people still wanted to improve upon them, which led to ergo clear options like Zealios (which are technically Zeal's mold design manufactured by Gateron)
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Mar 28, 2018 22:11
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Velocifire VM01 arrived and is pretty good. Most of the reviews I was looking at said it didn't have feet, but this one does so maybe they changed it. I also saw a teardown that showed light pipes in the switches to get the surface mount LED light into the keycap, but those pipes aren't in this one. The outemu browns are nicer than outemu blues but I'm probably going to install box navys in this bitch e: popped it open, very nice PCB+plate e2: should mention this was prompted after buying a z-88 that looked like an affordable GMMK but is actually a total piece of poo poo 
mewse fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Mar 28, 2018 |
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Mar 28, 2018 23:00
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Constellation I posted:I think you misread, what I was saying was, in the tactile world, almost anything is better than MX Brown. For Cherry, you can make an exception for MX Clears, but even with those, people still wanted to improve upon them, which led to ergo clear options like Zealios (which are technically Zeal's mold design manufactured by Gateron) Why are the other tactile non-clicky switches considered better than MX Browns?
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Mar 29, 2018 01:52
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Others can probably chime in, but to me, Cherry MX Browns barely has a bump and feels more like an extra scratchy linear switch. Others have a much more noticeable bump (and based on your preference, you can choose sharper or more drawn out bump, bump higher/lower in the actuation, heavier/lighter actuation, etc.) and are a lot smoother.
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Mar 29, 2018 02:07
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Got my Dark Yellows in today and put them on my K-Type. They feel REALLY nice. So much better than the Reds I was using. Still need to replace the stark white caps, but at least it feels good to type on now. Would recommend for anybody who's into linear. I can feel the distinct difference between these and my MX Blacks, and I'm 100% fine with it. Edit: Oh, and they're smooth as hell. It's a little ridiculous.
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Mar 29, 2018 02:37
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Chiming in to repeat the opinion that Cherry MX Browns just aren't very tactile. I feel almost no peak in resistance typing on them. Same for Gateron Browns for that matter, though at least those are less scratchy than the pre-retooled Cherry.G-Prime posted:Got my Dark Yellows in today and put them on my K-Type. They feel REALLY nice. So much better than the Reds I was using. Still need to replace the stark white caps, but at least it feels good to type on now. Dang, I'm kinda curious to see if I'd like linears. Might have to try these some day. As for keycaps, unfortunately the current round for /dev/tty is over, but here's a cute/comedy option if you're okay with the flatter, shorter XDA profile. Also, hi there K-Type buddy 
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Mar 29, 2018 05:56
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Ynglaur posted:Why are the other tactile non-clicky switches considered better than MX Browns? A good tactile switch to me should have two very distinct states, pressed and not-pressed. Orange Alps feel like that - the tactile bump starts very high up in the stroke, resistance rises very rapidly and the key barely moves until there’s enough force to actuate it, at which point it pretty much immediately bottoms out. The transition between not-pressed and pressed is very “sharp”, so to speak, and most of the key travel happens after overcoming the tactile bump. MX browns on the other hand have pretty much a full millimeter of travel before you start noticing the tactile bump at all, and it’s much less sharp. As mentioned, it’s pretty much a linear switch with a small bump in the middle of the stroke. It’s not what I want from a tactile switch. I tried a board with low-profile Kailh clicky switches recently too, and they too have a tactile bump that isn’t quite sharp enough for my liking.
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Mar 29, 2018 12:08
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Ynglaur posted:Why are the other tactile non-clicky switches considered better than MX Browns? Browns are good. People have spent 5 years working on improving on browns based on complaints like those posted. So now we have switches that are better.
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Mar 29, 2018 12:29
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Thanks. I like the feel of my Asus Strix Tactic Pro (stupid name and aesthetics notwithstanding), so maybe the "smooth with a little bump" is what works best for me.
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Mar 29, 2018 12:45
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Chiming in to repeat the opinion that Cherry MX Browns just aren't very tactile. I feel almost no peak in resistance typing on them. Same for Gateron Browns for that matter, though at least those are less scratchy than the pre-retooled Cherry. I'm one of those weirdos that really loves OEM profile and cylindrical tops on my caps. I'm probably too particular for my own good, honestly. Which means this K-Type has been sitting in the box since November, because I didn't want to use it with the stock caps. Since I was doing the switches anyway, I decided to change over to using it over the K70 I had been on for years. My over the top wish-list set of caps would be PBT, OEM, cylindrical, with a dark variant on something like Hana. Unfortunately, nobody makes anything like that. I could do Miami Nights, but the neon colors just don't appeal to me. I've gotten so used to having a dark keyboard over the years that light colors just look wrong on my desk. Of course, in a few months, when my CTRL arrives, I'll probably turn around and decide I want lighter colored caps to go on the dark case it ships with, but gently caress it, I'm living in NOW. Godspeed looks gorgeous on that K-Type, by the way. Edit: The Ducky Ultraviolet set that's up on Massdrop right now almost scratches an itch for me, but the white glyphs just look bad in my opinion. Laser would be awesome, but ABS instead of PBT just isn't something I want. Basically, I'm a picky rear end in a top hat. G-Prime fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 12:55
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Ynglaur posted:Why are the other tactile non-clicky switches considered better than MX Browns? I own Cherry MX Browns, Clears and Kailh non-box Browns. The cherry browns are my least favorite for the same reasons others have noted. There's a lot of travel before you hit the pretty subtle bump. The kailhs have a stronger bump that's higher up in the travel, you hit it almost immediately. I haven't had a chance to really program on them for hours yet though. The clears I use at work and really like, but it's taken me months to not notice how stiff they are. Additionally they still feel a bit scratchy compared the kailhs. For me the cherry browns are probably at the bottom of my list.
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Mar 29, 2018 13:43
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Thanks everyone for the feedback!
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Mar 29, 2018 14:22
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Chiming in to repeat the opinion that Cherry MX Browns just aren't very tactile. I feel almost no peak in resistance typing on them. Same for Gateron Browns for that matter, though at least those are less scratchy than the pre-retooled Cherry. Is that some kind of hacked terminal board or a custom affair? I'm not up on all this keyboard lingo.
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Mar 29, 2018 15:41
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G-Prime posted:Basically, I'm a picky rear end in a top hat. I think being a "picky rear end in a top hat" might be a great asset in this hobby. It means you really know what you want, and it keeps you from burning through your hobby budget every month  Have you looked at GMK profile? I think it's pretty similar to OEM, and there's about a million colorways they come in now, with more coming out as colorways in other profiles come out. redeyes posted:Is that some kind of hacked terminal board or a custom affair? I'm not up on all this keyboard lingo. Nope, it's a not-very-custom setup cobbled together from things made from 2016 onward. The base keyboard is an Input Club K-Type, and then I replaced the stock keycaps with ones from MiTo's SA Godspeed keycap set and customized a detachable cable from Zap Cables. The keyboard and keycap set I bought from r/mechmarket. You have to have a lot of patience and luck to even find what you want, and even more of both to get them at a price that isn't too unreasonable.
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Mar 29, 2018 16:33
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GMK is using Cherry profile, which is pretty close to OEM. Close enough I could tolerate it. Will have to look at what options are available for them.
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Mar 29, 2018 17:36
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TheFluff posted:MX browns on the other hand have pretty much a full millimeter of travel before you start noticing the tactile bump at all, and it’s much less sharp. As mentioned, it’s pretty much a linear switch with a small bump in the middle of the stroke. It’s not what I want from a tactile switch. For brown you have pressing->about to actuate->actuated+gave out For reds/blacks/linears you have pressing-> and that's it. For reds you feel pretty much nothing except a point of peak resistance when it bottoms out. For browns you know when it actuated because it goes from resisting to not resisting. I'll be honest, I've used all the cherry switches and browns are my favorite. But that's from the perspective of typing >130wpm and mashing on keys. I can type the same speed on all of the switches. Browns are just the switch I prefer. Low actuation force, a very clear tactile curve of pressed vs not pressed, no click. Khorne fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Mar 29, 2018 |
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Mar 29, 2018 18:00
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TheFluff posted:Welcome to the AEK club Well, push comes to shove, you can just get another AEK II off eBay. They aren't too hard to find and aren't that expensive (I got one in stellar condition off eBay for under $50, no need to retrobright it or anything!), and you won't have to worry about the cosmetic condition as you can just swap out the case and keycaps from your existing unit. My original plan was a real Model M like I had on my very first computer, but: -It doesn't have all the keys on a modern keyboard (at least the Apple key works as a Windows key analogue) -It's much more costly to get one in good condition -Building or getting an adapter is also more costly due to the harder-to-get DIN connector I instead went with the AEK II because I used this board back in grade school, and would go out of my way to swap boards from other lab computers just to have an AEK II to type on. Now I have my own at my desk. And if something wears out on this board? Well, I have a Macintosh SE/30 squirreled away in storage that has a yellowed AEK II I can use as a donor...
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Mar 29, 2018 18:28
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Khorne posted:Except it gives out completely once it actuates. Which makes it not linear at all. Nah, it's pretty much linear. There's about a millimeter of travel at the bottom of the stroke that requires more force than the actual actuation, and the tactile bump is very small (~10 gf). Compare to orange Alps which actually do lose resistance when actuating (no part of the keystroke has higher resistance than the tactile bump, and resistance doesn't really increase much after the bump). Techokami posted:Well, push comes to shove, you can just get another AEK II off eBay. They aren't too hard to find and aren't that expensive (I got one in stellar condition off eBay for under $50, no need to retrobright it or anything!), and you won't have to worry about the cosmetic condition as you can just swap out the case and keycaps from your existing unit. I have an AEK I and they're much rarer, sadly... the AEK II is probably pretty much just as good though.
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Mar 29, 2018 18:40
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G-Prime posted:My over the top wish-list set of caps would be PBT, OEM, cylindrical, with a dark variant on something like Hana. What do you think of Ducky Joker PBT? Might be a bit too bright though... Drop isn't active right now, but you might be able to find it secondhand, if you're interested
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Mar 29, 2018 20:04
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Still brighter than I'd prefer. Not opposed to it, and had looked at it in the past, but it's not ideal. Good suggestion! I'll find something eventually.  For now, I'm just feeling happy that I can use my K-Type instead of it sitting in the box.Also took the time to do a custom mapping for it so it mimics my Pok3r's layout, which is really nice. While doing regular typing, it's phenomenal to have a 60%, but when gaming I like having the dedicated function row, and now I've got that. Tempted to make a full on gaming layer for it. Maybe make it so some esoteric key combination locks me to layer 4, and while that's active, my usual layer 1 key activates layer 5 things, so I can have locked layer 4 mimic a normal keyboard layout, and layer 5 gives me doubled up mappings on the keys I can reach.
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Mar 30, 2018 00:09
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Nice. I set up my K-Type to sort of train myself for a 60%-like layout during typing. I use layer 1 for arrow keys, navigation cluster and function keys, but I never remember to use the function keys. I have layer 2 for a numpad, but I'm thinking I need to change my LOCK-2 key because I keep hitting it on accident. Maybe put it on layer 1 instead of base layer. Doing an esoteric key combo to reach other layers is not a bad idea either. KLL is (slowly) being updated so that a layer change can trigger a backlight animation, so you can have it light up to visually indicate your current layer, someday.
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Mar 30, 2018 00:53
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Input Club have posted their force curve of the BOX Royal Mmmm... I'm a bit worried about whether I'll hate how stiff the box navys are, and now trying to decide whether to wait for these box royals.
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Mar 30, 2018 02:59
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Got some 78g zealios and I am in love. It's everything I liked about cherry clears, but way more smooth. Anybody able to comment on the tactility between other weights? 78g feels pretty light, but I've read that is because the weights on zealios are measured by bottom out force.
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Mar 30, 2018 05:28
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I think that's the best you'll get since you feel that it's light. 67g should be about the same tactility as 78g but with a lighter bottom out force. 65g feels a little bit more drawn out. Never tried the 62g's.
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Mar 30, 2018 07:54
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Anyone know of a smaller keyboard ala the vortex core, but with an iso set up? Preferably not something I'd have to solder and program myself mind you. Anything like that exist, or is the form factor too niche?
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Mar 30, 2018 18:32
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forkbucket posted:Anyone know of a smaller keyboard ala the vortex core, but with an iso set up? Preferably not something I'd have to solder and program myself mind you. Anything like that exist, or is the form factor too niche? If you google "iso 40%" there's a few discussion threads about what I think you're looking for
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Mar 30, 2018 18:49
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Hmm most of what I found was concepts and idea discussions rather than anything concrete. I'm strongly considering just picking up a vortex core and programming the weird nordic characters I need as a key combo or macro. I want a small compact keyboard to bring back and forth between work, and I like the look and concept of the 40%. Doesn't look like there is much else that is mass produced in that size.
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Mar 31, 2018 14:55
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Well, got the stabilizer in and managed to get the existing housing out, which broke, so I put the new one in and didn't have to take apart the keyboard to do it. I did have to use a bit of leverage in order to get the wire proud of the faceplate in order to slide the new stabilizer in, but it slid and snapped in no issues. The spacebar is like a totally different button now, so nice and smooth. I appreciate all the help and pointers everyone.
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Mar 31, 2018 16:50
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Hummer Driving human being posted:I went for the Cooler Master for your same reasons. Thank you all for the advice. All three suggestions looked fine for what I need. Woah, are cherry browns lighter than I expected. It takes almost no effort to press the keys and there's very little tactile resistance. Not disappointed but also not at all what I was expecting.
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Apr 1, 2018 02:38
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They get easier to press over time too. It’s either a wearing-in thing or your fingers just get super roided out and you need to graduate up to clears.
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Apr 1, 2018 03:02
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Keep working at it, my young friends, and one day you will graduate to God's Only Switch, the buckling spring 
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Apr 1, 2018 12:13
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What about beam spring?
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Apr 1, 2018 19:18
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Eric the Mauve posted:Keep working at it, my young friends, and one day you will graduate to God's Only Switch, the buckling spring Someone could earn a fortune by making a standalone MX stem/PCB-compatible buckling spring switch.
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Apr 2, 2018 01:50
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A dude on Reddit/Geekhack DID make one and filed for a patent on it, 2 years ago. It's super tall, though. Like almost double the height of a regular MX switch. But fully compatible otherwise.
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Apr 2, 2018 02:28
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https://clueboard.co/parts/clueboard-double-1800-all-the-way It's a joke but it's also actually for sale.
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Apr 2, 2018 03:54
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