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Avenging Dentist posted:"Generic" fantasy stuff I like, in roughly-descending order: You can't post something like this without a picture. Warning: 2 Hot 4 TV   
Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Apr 2, 2018 |
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Apr 2, 2018 05:18
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Groetgaffel posted:Correct. Does the superglue get un-brittle after a while out of the freezer? I want to separate a single piece on a large model while leaving the rest intact.
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Apr 2, 2018 07:23
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I've not had any issues with breaking off say just an arm by doing this. The glue bond might be a little bit weaker afterwards, but since it's superglue you can just re-glue it. But no, it definitely don't stay as brittle as when you get it out of the freezer.
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Apr 2, 2018 07:45
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I was priming with stynylrez through the airbrush yesterday, and the black primer went on like a dream but the white primer was giving me dry tip every 20-30 seconds or so. Has anyone noticed this with stynylrez white? I tried varying the pressure a bit, from about 15 to 25 psi but it was a problem at both.
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Apr 2, 2018 08:00
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For me Stylenrez black has a tendency to block the nozzle, but grey and white give me no issues. The only logical explanation is that airbrushes are mystical and fickle objects.
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Apr 2, 2018 08:54
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Airbrushes; how do they work.
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Apr 2, 2018 13:27
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loving magic. In my effort to mega-batch paint, I have gone back to rattlecans! I know it is heresy... I primed 120 Bloodreavers with Army Painter Barbarian Flesh in 40 minutes. I got lucky with a 55 degree day with 40% humidity. For central Illinois, that is like a cosmic alignment. Then, I primed 40 Blood Warriors with Duplicolor Black Primer, and 11 leaders with Duplicolor Red Primer. This was like the best painting weekend ever. Then I bronzed my 40 Blood Warriors with VGA Bright Bronze in like 30 minutes. SO MUCH PAINTING!   dexefiend posted:
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Apr 2, 2018 13:38
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Finally finished my Necromunda Goliaths today! Learnt a stack and really enjoyed it, but by god I'm glad it's over!  More images here. https://imgur.com/gallery/5kZW7
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Apr 2, 2018 14:21
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Booyah- posted:I was priming with stynylrez through the airbrush yesterday, and the black primer went on like a dream but the white primer was giving me dry tip every 20-30 seconds or so. Has anyone noticed this with stynylrez white? I tried varying the pressure a bit, from about 15 to 25 psi but it was a problem at both. I don’t recall that issue with it, but I usually add a drop of flow improver in and spray the primer at 30 PSI. Thus far that’s seemed to appease the airbrush machine spirit.
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Apr 2, 2018 14:34
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I'm getting ready to paint my Sector Mechanicus terrain for my Armies on Parade board, and I'm going for a long abandoned facility that my AdMech are just starting to turn back on. I've seen some people paint them with colored decking and panels, but part of me really wants to just go for an all weathered industrial look for it. Here are some bases I did yesterday for some Skitarii Vanguard - would this be good on a larger scale for the terrain pieces, or would it be too boring? I plan on breaking up the all metal look by actually painting computer screens, pipes being brass and red/blue/green wires. I'll most likely add some hazard stripes before weathering it. 
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Apr 2, 2018 16:21
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tehsid posted:Finally finished my Necromunda Goliaths today! Learnt a stack and really enjoyed it, but by god I'm glad it's over! I'm loving these. Anything special you did for the weathering on the armor?
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Apr 2, 2018 16:49
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Schadenboner posted:You can't post something like this without a picture. All joking and cheesecake aside, dark sword has some incredible minis. The DiTerlizzi masterworks are my absolute jams
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Apr 2, 2018 16:58
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tehsid posted:Finally finished my Necromunda Goliaths today! Learnt a stack and really enjoyed it, but by god I'm glad it's over! These look astounding. Zuul the Cat posted:I'm getting ready to paint my Sector Mechanicus terrain for my Armies on Parade board, and I'm going for a long abandoned facility that my AdMech are just starting to turn back on. I've seen some people paint them with colored decking and panels, but part of me really wants to just go for an all weathered industrial look for it. That's perfect. Remember that the job of a base is to complement the model, not overshadow it. If you look at the bases on my Primaris it's fairly simple but does what it's supposed to do. The color matches the overall theme, the contrast between the purple and ground works well to define the model, and in places where I want some more emphasis I use a simply white drybrushed rock. For larger bases you can add accent pieces like debris, rusted out pieces of machinery, etc.
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Apr 2, 2018 18:02
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Could hit it with a tiny bit of green on the brass pipes. Was looking online today to see if there was a copper oxide colour and found this good guide http://www.madponies.net/verdigris.html
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Apr 2, 2018 18:15
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pun pundit posted:Does anyone have experience painting Hero Forge miniatures? Is Premium Plastic worth it? I'm a couple of days late but I've bought several customs from HeroForge. The premium plastic holds detail really well and came with only a few easily trimmed mold bumps (except one unfortunate who wound up with a mold bump on her chin, that took a little more effort to remove). I don't regret picking the premium plastic at all. I can probably provide some pictures when I get home if you'd like.
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Apr 2, 2018 18:23
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My coworker is thinking about picking up the AoS starter and we were discussing paints. I know there have got to be alternatives to buying Retributor Armor spray, but have no clue as to what they might be. He does NOT have an airbrush, so he'd be looking for a good rattlecan gold that is relatively inexpensive in the US. Any thoughts?
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Apr 2, 2018 19:08
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Floppychop posted:For me Stylenrez black has a tendency to block the nozzle, but grey and white give me no issues. The opposite for me, freaking magic
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Apr 2, 2018 20:17
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OK real airbrush talk: I don't use my airbrush as often as some of the jokers on this thread, but I swear to god that I am mystified by some of the responses here. Everyone recommends this or that airbrush, but for every one that recommends it, there's always a caveat. And there's always some other jabrony who comes on posting about how it clogs with this or that paint or primer, about how they busted a tip, or stripped some threads, or how they need to go through herculean efforts to keep it clean in order to make it work. It's almost like 40K Mechanicum levels of ritual and superstition ("Anoint thy Sotar with three dabs of the Holy Stynylrez, knock four times on the Sacred Compressor Tank, and intone the ancient hymns while switching thy button to "ON"). I have an Aztek airbrush. I've had it for years. It has a durable polycarbonate-plastic body, a double-action trigger, and the needles/nozzles are removable, screw-in plastic jobs that you can swap out literally in seconds. The nozzles come in a variety of different types and break down easily (into three separate pieces) for cleaning. I've run all sorts of poo poo through this thing and I have never EVER encountered the barest fraction of the finicky bullshit people here complain about with Badgers or Iwatas or whatever. Frankly, I am mystified by all of the "how do I keep my airbrush functioning?" talk, because mine just...works. I break down the nozzles and clean them after every spray session, but this is a matter of a few minutes (no sonic cleaners or anything fancy, just me, squinty eyes, and a sink with running water - although be careful, I once lost a needle down the drain and had to tear my trap apart to recover it). Is it as fancy or expensive as the other models people recommend? Nope. The deluxe set (with all 9 of the different nozzles and a bunch of different sized mixing cups - both gravity and siphon fed - in a slick wooden case) retails on Amazon for $180.00. But there's one going for $40.00 used on eBay right now, or there's one NIB you can "Buy it now" for $90.00. It's not shiny or chrome, but god drat is it a work-horse.
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Apr 2, 2018 20:55
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Ilor posted:OK real airbrush talk: I think most of the issues are exaggerated, it is a comedy forum. Like I said above, Grey and White 'clog' more for me but that just means I have to thin it a little extra before using. Making sure paint is thinned right, keeping the tip clean, and cleaning the airbrush after eliminate 99% of the 'issues'.
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Apr 2, 2018 21:07
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I've definitely experienced airbrush nirvana a few times where everything has clicked and the paint flows smoothly with minimal pauses to clean the tip and so on. The tricky part for me is adjusting all the variables to get there since I don't yet have the intuition for most of them. I just got mine last year and have probably used it less than ten times so far.
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Apr 2, 2018 21:17
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Ilor posted:I have an Aztek airbrush. I've had it for years. It has a durable polycarbonate-plastic body, a double-action trigger, and the needles/nozzles are removable, screw-in plastic jobs that you can swap out literally in seconds. The nozzles come in a variety of different types and break down easily (into three separate pieces) for cleaning. I've run all sorts of poo poo through this thing and I have never EVER encountered the barest fraction of the finicky bullshit people here complain about with Badgers or Iwatas or whatever. Frankly, I am mystified by all of the "how do I keep my airbrush functioning?" talk, because mine just...works. I break down the nozzles and clean them after every spray session, but this is a matter of a few minutes (no sonic cleaners or anything fancy, just me, squinty eyes, and a sink with running water - although be careful, I once lost a needle down the drain and had to tear my trap apart to recover it). In all fairness, you can do this with a regular airbrush as well - you don't need to strip it down to individual components and run it through a sonic cleaner. I clean mine by scrubbing the tip with a toothbrush, pulling the needle out and making sure there is no paint on it, and spraying a bit of airbrush cleaner through. I probably put as much work into mine as you do yours. That being said, something like a Sotar, which has very fine needles and nozzles, is going to be more prone to blockages, and is going to require a bit more of an intensive cleaning.
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Apr 2, 2018 21:27
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berzerkmonkey posted:My coworker is thinking about picking up the AoS starter and we were discussing paints. I know there have got to be alternatives to buying Retributor Armor spray, but have no clue as to what they might be. He does NOT have an airbrush, so he'd be looking for a good rattlecan gold that is relatively inexpensive in the US. Any thoughts? Yikes, I didn't realize their gold spray was $30. Normally I would say GW primers are worth the cost but that really is too much. Two cans would bring you nearly half way to the cost of just buying an airbrush setup. I did a quick search but couldn't find anything that looked suitable for minis or that people have reviewed positively. Army Painter doesn't have a gold spray, but their Plate Mail spray is a really nice bright silver, similar to citadel Ironbreaker. Priming with that and then basecoating over it with retributor gold might be a lot easier than working up from black.
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Apr 2, 2018 21:32
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PoptartsNinja posted:I'm a couple of days late but I've bought several customs from HeroForge. The premium plastic holds detail really well and came with only a few easily trimmed mold bumps (except one unfortunate who wound up with a mold bump on her chin, that took a little more effort to remove). I don't regret picking the premium plastic at all. That would help a lot, thanks!
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Apr 2, 2018 21:41
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pun pundit posted:That would help a lot, thanks! I've gotten two sets so far. This is the most recent batch in white primer (I'm still painting them), they had minimal mold bumps and no facial issues. Fair warning I've done a little greenstuff work to some of them because they didn't have quite as many superhero-type options as I'd hoped. I'm not great with green stuff but they came out ok!  Green Stuff: #1 belt, #2 top, #3 mask  Green Stuff: #1 None, #2 None, #3 the obvious arm guns (when he's finished I'm also going to Water Effects a glass faceplate)  Green Stuff: #1 Basing tentacles (I made too much and why waste it?), #2 Stardust the Super Wizard's weightlifter belt. The only one I'm worried about is the second to the last one, that pose is not very sturdy so probably isn't great if you're looking at it for actual play. Here's the first set I got, all painted:  Orange girl is the one with the chin blemish I couldn't quite fix. Green Stuff: #1 Belt, #2 Belt  Green Stuff: #1 None, #2 'fraying' the coat to make it look like the sleeves end at the shoulders  Green Stuff: #1 the pigtails (I need to put another layer of gloss varnish on her orb), #2 none (I really need to redo that base)  Green Stuff: #1 the entire robe (not the hood), #2 extended the cape out to the front of the chest All in all I was pleased how few corrections I've had to make in general. 1 blemish really isn't bad. Sorry for the cell phone pictures.
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Apr 2, 2018 22:33
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Ilor posted:OK real airbrush talk: This guy gets it. One drunk night I let paint sit in my Patriot. It's fine.
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Apr 2, 2018 22:42
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I've been airbrushing for about two days, so I'm pretty much an expert now, Ilor posted:I break down the nozzles and clean them after every spray session, but this is a matter of a few minutes (no sonic cleaners or anything fancy, just me, squinty eyes, and a sink with running water - although be careful, I once lost a needle down the drain and had to tear my trap apart to recover it).
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Apr 2, 2018 23:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:My coworker is thinking about picking up the AoS starter and we were discussing paints. I know there have got to be alternatives to buying Retributor Armor spray, but have no clue as to what they might be. He does NOT have an airbrush, so he'd be looking for a good rattlecan gold that is relatively inexpensive in the US. Any thoughts? The spray is definitely expensive, the cheapest I see it online is about $23. That said, it would easily do the entire box and then some and Retributor Armor is an amazing paint, so I’m loathe to declare it Not Worth It. I know that Krylon, Rustoleum, etc all have metallic gold sprays, but I haven’t used any of them. For the price he could grab one and spray some cardboard to see what’s up. Otherwise, Retributor covers well so he might have to go at it with a brush and a dream.
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Apr 2, 2018 23:56
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S.J. posted:I'm loving these. Anything special you did for the weathering on the armor? All I did was. Heavily watered down (4 to 1) Army Painters Oak Brown and ran it over the steel, copper and shoes letting it pool heavy in corners. Did the same again with Citadels Troll slayer orange, but only applied it in the darkest build ups of the brown and on bolts/rivets. I did not apply it on the copper/bronze. I then watered down (2 to 1) Army Painters Elemental Bolt (or you could use Citadels Nihilakh Oxide) and very lightly applied it to the copper/bronze areas. Be super careful with this as you can easily over do it. Only do it in deep recessed areas or under bolts/rivets. Then I washed with a little Null Oil then Agrax Earthshade. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:These look astounding. There are also some WIP picks on my Instagram https://www.instagram.com/tehsid87/ if you want to check that out! tehsid fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 00:13
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tehsid posted:Thanks! I am so happy with them! What paint did you use for that copper/brass? I love the burnished look, especially on the stub cannons.
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Apr 3, 2018 00:16
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Booyah- posted:What paint did you use for that copper/brass? I love the burnished look, especially on the stub cannons. I use Army Painters Weapon Brass! 2 coats is enough but if you apply my it can go a little bit too orange. I applied 2 coats over one coat of Citadel Leadbelcher. Make sure to wash with Agrax as it's a more subtle wash against the copper (I rather it) but Agrax can give you a really greazy look if you're after that.
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Apr 3, 2018 00:22
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PoptartsNinja posted:I've gotten two sets so far. This is the most recent batch in white primer (I'm still painting them), they had minimal mold bumps and no facial issues. Fair warning I've done a little greenstuff work to some of them because they didn't have quite as many superhero-type options as I'd hoped. I'm not great with green stuff but they came out ok! Awesome, I'm going for the premium plastic then. Thanks for the pics. Now, to the thread at large, I have a fairly big purchasing decision to make. I'm painting a fair few different minis in future, including my players' DnD party, so I'm looking at a large gamut of colours. I also am really frustrated at my local gaming store's lack of selection in paints, so I've been looking around the internet for box sets of a broad range of colours. I've found, - a confusing set of "beginner's" (which is fair, I am a beginner) boxes for Reaper paints that also contain some minis - another confusing set of Reaper paints with only paint numbers listed - a seemlingly very good box of Vallejo Game Colour paints on Amazon - a set of all 81 P3 colours on some US gaming site Now, I've watched and read a fair number of reviews of the various paint types, but most of them are 2+ years old. What I've gathered from them is that Vallejo Game Colour has serious separation issues and need a whole lot of shaking going on. So my budding tendonitis and I are not very enthused by that box. Reaper paints have very good reviews but the box sets available are confusing as the descriptions for them are either "the paints you need for the minis in this box" or "contains paints currently in production between #(5-digit-number) - #(other 5-digit-number)", so I feel like I have no information on them. Privateer press paints have very good reviews, but they don't come in dropper bottles and the set of 81 paints is quite expensive. Any advice would be useful.
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Apr 3, 2018 15:26
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pun pundit posted:Now, to the thread at large, I have a fairly big purchasing decision to make. I'm painting a fair few different minis in future, including my players' DnD party, so I'm looking at a large gamut of colours. I also am really frustrated at my local gaming store's lack of selection in paints, so I've been looking around the internet for box sets of a broad range of colours. As someone who also just recently got into the hobby, I'd recommend the Vallejo Model Color basic set to start. To give you a little more info and background, the Reaper kits come in two flavors. The first are the "Learn to Paint" kits which include 3 miniatures, 10 or 11 reaper paints, and a detailed instruction booklet that gives you step-by-step directions on how to paint the included minis. The second flavor is the "Master Series" paint kits which are really just paint kits and aren't designed for beginners. They include a range of around 18 paints, usually broken into triads i.e. a base color, a shadow color and a highlight color. The Learn to Paint kits are a great idea if you want some practice minis and guidance on basic techniques, but if you are just looking for paints then you probably want to look elsewhere. I don't have any personal experience with the Master Series paint sets, but they seem to be a good option in terms of bang for your buck and having some pre-set color schemes in your repertoire. The reason I would recommend the Vallejo basic set over the Reaper kit is that having worked with Reaper, Vallejo, and Citadel paints so far I vastly prefer the Vallejo. Their consistency is uhh...consistent across the board, which makes it much easier to get a handle on how much to thin your paints and how to reliably apply thin layers. Buying them in a set also saves you around 25% vs. purchasing them piece meal. The Reaper paints kind of vary color by color in my experience, and it's needlessly complicated to differentiate between the Reaper "basic" line, "Master" line and "HD" line when you are just starting out. The Citadel paints I've used have been good but they are typically more expensive than any other paint brands, pots are a pain in the neck vs. dropper bottles, and if you aren't painting GW miniatures and therefore benefiting from exact paint matching to the stock painting scheme for an army or whatever there's no point in going with them over the other brands. One thing I will say for Citadel is that their "technical" paints for blood, gore, and basing textures are pretty neat. So yeah, in a nutshell, if you want some basic guidance and practice before you start painting your DnD minis then grab a Reaper Learn to Paint kit, but if you feel comfortable jumping in then get a Vallejo basic set and expand from there. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 15:56
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You're going to get separation with pretty much any acrylic paint if it sits a while. How drastically tends to vary from color to color. You can get fancy vibrator mixers or holders to strap the bottle to a jigsaw. Army Painter and Scale 75 are probably some of the worst I've encountered for needing a lot of shaking to get even. P3s paint pots are fine other than sometimes as they get older people have reported the lids getting brittle and falling apart. Otherwise I quite like some of their colors for mixing to do shading like Cryx Bane Base. Though generally if one company makes a color someone else probably makes a pretty close match. Reaper paints come with an agitator already in the bottle which helps.
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Apr 3, 2018 16:01
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Excellently presented advice, thank you! The only thing is, I am looking at fantasy and some sci-fi models; I read that the Vallejo Model Color line was intended for historical model painting, with a surfeit of uniform and camo colours as opposed to the bolder Game Color range. Is this a real concern for fantasy and sci-fi models?
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Apr 3, 2018 16:07
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Painting minis is really just down to two budgeting factors: money, and free time. If you have a lot of money, but very little free time, definitely go with something like Vallejo, P3, Scale 75, etc., as it will be easier to get started painting right away with those products. If you have little money and more time (or you're just cheap, like me), you can use cheap craft paints/artist's acrylics, and also get good results (albeit with a bit more work). As others have said, there really isn't one true line of paints that will 100% cover all your painting needs. One line may have better coverage with certain colors than another, while a different line may not have as many separation issues, or have better metallics, or whatever. So don't be afraid to experiment with different lines of paints. As to your question of which specific paints to start with, I've used both Vallejo and P3 paints in the past, and liked them both, so I'd recommend either of those, along with Army Painter's ink washes. I've never used Reaper so I can't speak to those, but Vallejo and P3 both work just fine (you can put an agitator or two in the Vallejo bottles to help with mixing paints while shaking, and there are many videos out there showing how to transfer P3 paints to plastic dropper bottles, which are also cheap and plentiful).
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Apr 3, 2018 16:07
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There are also paint range conversion charts (example), which are useful if... • you're lazy/impatient and your local hobby store carries one range, but not the other • there's some sweet tutorial online with Paint Range X but you prefer Paint Range Y
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Apr 3, 2018 16:08
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One extra thing about citadel paints that is helpful for a beginner is the citadel paint app. It lets you select a colour, say dark blue, and then tells you exactly which paints to use, basecoat, shade, layer, and edge highlight, along with an example picture.
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Apr 3, 2018 16:10
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I hosed up an Alpha Legion shoulder pad trying to shave off the insignia. Is there a good way to press mold an insignia and make another hydra to transfer.
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Apr 3, 2018 16:18
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mango sentinel posted:I hosed up an Alpha Legion shoulder pad trying to shave off the insignia. Is there a good way to press mold an insignia and make another hydra to transfer. Why not just lean-in and freehand "Totally not an Alpha Legion guy!" on the shoulderpad? 
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Apr 3, 2018 16:35
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pun pundit posted:The only thing is, I am looking at fantasy and some sci-fi models; I read that the Vallejo Model Color line was intended for historical model painting, with a surfeit of uniform and camo colours as opposed to the bolder Game Color range. Is this a real concern for fantasy and sci-fi models? Nah, that's like 75% marketing. Whereas Citadel will sell you "Death World Forest" green, in the VMC line you get almost the exact same color called "Luftwaffe Camo Green." The range of colors is largely similar, it's just the branding that makes VMC seem that it's more geared towards military models. I have not personally used the Game Color range, but have read negative things about the quality so if I were you I would just stick with VMC and pick up a Citadel or P3 paint as necessary when there's some shade that simply isn't available otherwise. P.s. I recently found this color conversion chart that is backed up by actual color science. I admit I haven't done any side-by-side comparisons, but if nothing else it's much more comprehensive in terms of the colors included than anything else I've been able to find online. Edit: One other thing I would mention, when you get into the world of washes there are a bunch of different options out there but most people use Citadel or Army Painter stuff over Vallejo. You can also buy some acrylic medium, flow aid and inks from a craft store for about $35 and have a lifetime supply of washes which you can mix yourself. That's what I did, and you can find instructions here. I've never used a Citadel or Army Painter wash so I can't speak to how they compares, but at this stage in my painting I doubt it's holding me back at all. One day I'll probably buy some nuln oil or whatever just to see if there's really any difference. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 17:19
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