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Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned.
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Apr 3, 2018 04:26
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned. If it works its not stupid.
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Apr 3, 2018 13:20
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Apr 3, 2018 15:09
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned. What exactly am I looking at here? That almost but not quite looks like a portable dishwasher connector.
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Apr 3, 2018 17:21
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kid sinister posted:What exactly am I looking at here? That almost but not quite looks like a portable dishwasher connector. Two of them, using five adapters, because I also have a portable washing machine and RO water filter.
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Apr 3, 2018 17:37
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Two of them, using five adapters, because I also have a portable washing machine and RO water filter. Do you have traffic problems in your kitchen? lol You know, those quick connect hoses are user replaceable. You could probably switch the hose on one appliance and be able to use the same hookup for both devices. Also, don't most people hook up their RO spouts all the time and then mount it in the sink sprayer hole? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 22:13
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At an apartment, cannot cut holes for the RO spout or do any modification (even installing an inline faucet tap for the RO input) but by god the water tastes bad and I've installed an RO system in the last three places I lived at (all houses, with landlord approval) and they are loving amazing. I also have an aquarium so it's nice having RO water for that. The landlord at this place was like "lol no." They're both the same quick connect style, but so I can run the RO system at the same time as using the sink, or run the washing machine and have the sink available, or run the dishwasher and washing machine at the same time. The reason I posted the picture is because the side connection coming off of the diverter is: 1/2 NPT -> 3/4 GHT, 3/4 GHT -> 55/60 faucet thread, faucet thread -> Quick connect adapter, quick connect adapter (GHT) to 1/4 compression sleeve. It's so I can disconnect the RO input if I need to use both adapters at the same time. The kitchen isn't that bad, but not being able to install anything is a PITA. The price is right on this apartment and it's right across the street from the school I (hopefully) start next month, so I'm working with what I've got  E: Here's a photo. The RO stuff is going to go in the cabinet under the sink behind the washing machine, with the drain pipe running up and zip-tied to the drain pipe for the washing machine. The spout is probably going to either be mounted to a board next to the coffee/keurig machine (I really just use it for hot water for oatmeal and tea), or I'll attach one of those water spritzer spouts to the hose like you see at bars and have it just laying there.  Nothing can go on the counter to the left because 1: that's the "dining room table/eating bar," (this is a tiny apartment, all the price of a one bedroom with all the space of a studio), and 2: the landlord said not to place heavy object on it. When I moved in the countertop was being held up with those trophy shelf brackets, and was literally tilted 7 degrees out because those shelf brackets can't hold anything. The handyman replaced them with heavy duty shelving brackets but still mentioned I should abide by the landlord if I don't want to be kicked out/rentjacked at the end of the lease in a year (picky slumlords). I need to be here for the next 20 months so I'm just doing what i can in an easily-revertable way. The landlord currently likes me and said the washing machine and stuff was okay as long as I was 100% sure there would be no water leaks (2nd floor). Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 22:21
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Is your goal to perform all of your household activities from a single position? If we look down, is there a toilet plumbed in? I think you are taking efficiency to extremes here.
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Apr 3, 2018 23:08
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Its 400 square feet, and the rest is carpeted. What would you do? The bathroom is small enough you have to stand to the side to close the door. The door touches the toilet as it opens. You can see 100% of the counter space this apartment has available, in that photo. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 23:32
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Its 400 square feet, and the rest is carpeted. What would you do? Simultaneously wash the dishes and clothes in the shower whilst shaving and pissing. But that's just me. I know you are more sophisticated than that.
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Apr 3, 2018 23:40
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Nah, I brush and shave in the shower. For the other one, there's a reason I left the garbage disposal side of the sink open  This is one of those cases where I don't want to pay $2.50/load to do clothes in the laundromat at the complex, so I spent $200 on a portable washer and dryer. At a load every three days, it'll only take a year to make the money back 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 00:01
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Hello great sages of all that is wet and dry! I come to you with a problem that makes no sense to me, but is probably pretty obvious to you. My shower has a strange banging noise that happens only when the water is midway between hot and cold. At the extremes, no banging. In the middle, it makes a horrible banging noise that sounds like water hammer. The pipes literally shake in the wall as well. I did some reading that indicated it can be a problem with the mixing valve, so I took that out and checked it. It seems fine to me, and reinstalling it didn't fix anything. A video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-SfIzkbSyU Edit: Oh gently caress, I'm one of those assholes who records in vertical. 
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Apr 4, 2018 00:38
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Hell yes gold fixtures! How much is a new mixing valve? Or do you have any water hammer arrestors in the house that may be old?
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Apr 4, 2018 00:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Hell yes gold fixtures!  Metal Geir Skogul posted:How much is a new mixing valve? Or do you have any water hammer arrestors in the house that may be old? I don't think I have any water hammer arrestors in the house. But this same thing doesn't happen in the other bathrooms -- not even the one that's on the same floor, right down the hall. There might be a really quiet version of the same thing, but... it's nowhere near the same. Is this the sort of thing I should just... get an actual plumber for?
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Apr 4, 2018 00:51
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Turn off your water at the meter, open every faucet in the house with shower handles set to the middle, and once it's completely drained out of the lowest faucet, turn it back on and close each one in order from lowest to highest. If the showers have thermostatic valves that don't work with reduced pressure, turn them to full cold and full hot separately until sputtering stops. I can't be the only one who thought that was a vacuum cleaner at first glance.
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Apr 4, 2018 01:15
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GWBBQ posted:Turn off your water at the meter, open every faucet in the house with shower handles set to the middle, and once it's completely drained out of the lowest faucet, turn it back on and close each one in order from lowest to highest. No joy. I did notice something while doing so, though, and that is that running the sink in the room with the problem makes the pipe banging much less audible. The sink water is pulsing though. Edit: When I went and took a shower this morning, I realized the banging was completely gone! Maybe the Thanks so much! GoonyMcGoonface fucked around with this message at 14:13 on Apr 5, 2018 |
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Apr 5, 2018 01:41
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HycoCam posted:Did the 15' auger reach the clog? If not I'm with glynnenstein that your problem is most likely somewhere in the waste pipe beyond the 15' reach. If you have a 4" waste line, every 2' of pipe will hold about a gallon. So if you could dump 8 gallons of water in the pipe at once and your clog is 16' down the pipe you won't have a problem. Showers typically dump out 2 gallons per minute. But your pipe doesn't seem completely clogged--so some water is trickling past while the pipe fills. hi, i'm back! somehow you were totally correct despite my non-descriptive explanation of my problem. a root caved in and cracked the pipe fairly thoroughly (today, we had mud back up into our toilet, so dirt is getting in). unfortunately, in my township the sewer Dept is only responsible at the main, so i doubt i'll have much help getting anyone from the town to do anything. I need to have around 20 feet of cast iron pipe replaced (the entire house has been replumbed internally with PVC, but outside the clean out it becomes cast iron again). this is a pretty time-sensitive issue, but I got quoted at 5k to replace the 20ish feet and to dig up the sidewalk. sadly, I'd still have more to pay more on top of that, because I'm responsible for fixing the sidewalk myself. I'm reaching out to other plumbers for quotes, but does that seem like ballpark the right number?
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Apr 5, 2018 20:39
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Got the kit, set it up, and now it will stay on the counter for a week-long leak test (I've been burned by cheap online RO kits before). If all works out, it'll go under the sink in a tub, leaving only the spout up top. I found a heavy-duty nylon flower planter at goodwill, and it makes the spout tall enough to fill my hydroflask knockoff AND also tall enough for the keurig water tank, without having to tilt it. I filled the inside with some weight to give it some heft and stability (my go-to mouldable weight - melted wax inside ziplock bags - it conforms to the shape of the interior but won't leak if I, say, leave it in my car or something), and gives the base some stability), and it's really great. Gotta flush it three or four complete times to get all of the rubber taste out, but that's normal. Even with the Chinese rubber-dust flavor, it's leaps and bounds ahead of what comes out of the tap. 
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Apr 5, 2018 22:35
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:RO kit Which one did you get? I may be in the market for one myself. Tapwater at my house is godawful.
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Apr 6, 2018 01:37
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Which one did you get? I may be in the market for one myself. Tapwater at my house is godawful. This time, I bought this one. It's my first one with a booster pump, that claims to reduce the amount of wastewater (making it 1:1 instead of 2 or 3:1, RO systems use water to make water). The pump itself is drat near silent, though I am skeptical of mixing electronics and switches into something that works just fine normally using municipal water pressure alone. Last February, 2017, I bought this system (surprised the seller still exists), and it worked fine all year. However, there were a few small leaks because the hoses hadn't been seated all the way in some connections. The link no longer exists but I bought another system like three-four years ago, like 2013-2014, for around $200. It was identical in every way to the above system, but it had clear filter housings. Nearly any system you find is going to come from the same factory/factories, the only difference is the assembly house. I was at Costco the other week and saw them selling an RO system for $140-ish, and it was 100% identical to that one I bought in 2017. Finkle is Einhorn! Einhorn is Finkle! The only things I would avoid are: Clear filter housings, as the clear plastics tend to be more brittle. You don't need to see how dirty the filters are - when they get dirty, it'll slow down dramatically. I go through one first-stage filter about every year with high usage (replaced the first stage filter right before moving last month on the 2017 system). And I'd avoid the UV sterilizer systems. Most reviews seem to be about how the sterilizer bulbs are broken in transit, broken because of leaky filter housings letting water hit the bulbs, about how the bulbs burn out regularly, about how the bulb housings are leaky garbage, or about how the power supplies for the bulbs burn out. Yes, most direct-from-China UV sterilizers use actual UV bulbs, not LEDs, due to cost actual UV-sterilizing LEDs (they just really came out in 2014) versus old fluorescent-style bulbs. I've also read that the ones that come with metal tanks, like [url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Stage-Water-Filters-Home-Drinking-Reverse-Osmosis-System-PLUS-Extra-7-Express/192369740224?_trkparms=aid]this one (the style I purchased first in 2013) can have internal pressure membrane and/or rust issues. The metal tank one definitely had the funkiest taste for the first ten or so "flushings" of the tank. (also BTW when you get the kit, put a tire pressure gauge on the shrader valve on the holding tank. You want 5-7 PSI and sometimes they're over/underinflated from the factory, meaning you'll hold too little water (high pressure) or have too slow of a filtering period (low pressure)). I'd also choose a kit that has an extra set of filters, because sometimes they use odd-sized filters that are difficult to find. And even the "big three," which are standard 10-inch canister-style filters, can be difficult and/or expensive to find locally, depending on how stocked your local Home Depot/Lowes is. And the $5 for the extra set of filters also nets you an extra set of silicone washers for the filters, which can always be useful even if you buy locally. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 01:57
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That's great info, thanks! e: I've never installed one of these. Do you have to put the diverter on the nozzle head, or can you tap the cold water line below the sink?
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Apr 6, 2018 22:18
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You usually tap into the cold water line under the sink. When doing what I've done, you need a one-way check valve because the tank and all of the filters are pressurized, and disconnecting it causes water to spray everywhere. With it installed on the cold line under the sink, you'll never have to deal with that. Remember that you also need a drain (also called a "brine") line, plumbed in somewhere in the drain system. I think it's the one and only time a vampire tap is actually appropriate. I usually put my drain lines near the top of the main drain pipe, about an inch below where it comes out of the bottom of the sink pan. Don't tap it in past the P or S trap. As a bonus, every time you get water, you'll drain an equal amount or more down the sink, which keeps the P-trap full of fresh-ish water versus whatever you put down the sink last if you didn't wash it out.
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Apr 6, 2018 22:27
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Okay, be honest here: you're playing a game to see how many appliances and features you can add to the tiny kitchen, aren't you? 10 points if you can fit a rotating disco ball in there.
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Apr 7, 2018 11:30
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I'm renovating my bathroom and had new tile put in. I removed the old toilet flange, which was broken and am planning to install the new flange on top of the finished tile and put the toilet back on tonight. The problem is, the flange is 3/8" thick and I have less than 1/2" in the recessed part of the toilet. Resting the seal and the flange on the bottom of the upside-down toilet results in this:  The toilet will float a 1/2" off of the floor. I know the seal will compress some, but its not going to be less than 1/8". It's 1/2" as it is. Ideas?
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Apr 7, 2018 23:52
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CaladSigilon posted:No joy. I did notice something while doing so, though, and that is that running the sink in the room with the problem makes the pipe banging much less audible. The sink water is pulsing though. Nice, you're welcome.
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Apr 8, 2018 01:30
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Question about a shower valve. I rebuilt an older Central Brass with a Danco 39646 kit. Replaced the seats with a seat tool, new hot/cold and diverter. The diverter appears to weep out of its threads very very slightly when the water is on. Not out of the stem with the packing nut - the diverter body itself. It's as tight as I feel comfortable making it. What do I need to do? I did not install thread tape on the diverter itself, but did put a thin single strip on the shoulder of the seat based on advice from a plumber in the plumbing supply store. The old valves appeared to have been installed the same way. Next step? angryrobots fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 20:11
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Koryk posted:I'm renovating my bathroom and had new tile put in. I removed the old toilet flange, which was broken and am planning to install the new flange on top of the finished tile and put the toilet back on tonight. Why not tile around the new flange instead?
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Apr 10, 2018 04:22
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angryrobots posted:Question about a shower valve. I rebuilt an older Central Brass with a Danco 39646 kit. Replaced the seats with a seat tool, new hot/cold and diverter. Anybody? I'm going to Teflon tape the thing and sweartogod I didn't know any better!
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Apr 11, 2018 18:42
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angryrobots posted:Anybody? I'm going to Teflon tape the thing and sweartogod I didn't know any better! Try it. If it doesn't work, the tape is easy to remove.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:26
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Anyone have any idea how I can unclog this shower drain? I bought a tiny snake, but there isn't a hole to stick it into??? It seems like water must overflow somewhere up in there that I can't get to...
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Apr 13, 2018 15:28
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Associate Christ
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I bought a house a few years ago that was built in the late 60's, and the plumbing(galvanized steel(I think)) is starting to wear out. A few months ago my uncle started messing with a sink faucet in my downstairs bathroom and after he left it started acting oddly. The faucet acts normal if using cold water, but when you turn the hot on it goes fine for a few seconds, then starts slowing down and making a horrible humming sound until you turn off the hot. You can delay the noise by turning up the hot water even higher, but it will eventually slow down and make the very loud hum noise and eventually the water will stop. I am getting a contractor to gut this bathroom *eventually*, but in the meantime, any ideas? I can post a picture/take a video later if that helps.
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Apr 16, 2018 18:19
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Sounds like the mixer valve is loose and twisting or something
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Apr 16, 2018 18:28
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Sounds like the mixer valve is loose and twisting or something Cool, I will take a look at it. After I figure out what it is. 
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Apr 16, 2018 18:39
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other people posted:Anyone have any idea how I can unclog this shower drain? I bought a tiny snake, but there isn't a hole to stick it into??? It seems like water must overflow somewhere up in there that I can't get to... I think you should be able to remove that centre part and then it is a simple open pip underneath The tricky part is discovering whether it unscrews, unbolts or simply pulls off.
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Apr 18, 2018 14:25
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spog posted:I think you should be able to remove that centre part and then it is a simple open pip underneath The grey bowl is all one piece and is definitely a wider diameter than the upper drain hole. Even if I could loosen the grey cup, it couldn't come out. There are some small gaps between the floor and the grey cup which are under the lip. This is where the water must overflow into whatever drain is under the cup. I was able to clean this out a bit and so far it now at least drains faster than the incoming water. But yeah.. if there is ever a real clog I have no loving clue how you are supposed to attack it.
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Apr 18, 2018 14:34
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How much extra work is it to install a dishwasher *not* near a sink? Because of the layout of my dishwasher-less kitchen, it makes much more sense to have a dishwasher on the wall opposite the sink instead of next to it.
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Apr 19, 2018 21:40
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Spagghentleman posted:How much extra work is it to install a dishwasher *not* near a sink? Because of the layout of my dishwasher-less kitchen, it makes much more sense to have a dishwasher on the wall opposite the sink instead of next to it. However much work it is to plumb and power it. In some locations it will be easy and in others a massive pain in the rear end. Anything can be done for enough money, of course.
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Apr 20, 2018 00:05
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A friend is adding a bathroom in his basement. He’s on septic and it’s below that level, so he’s putting in a Maserati toilet. Anyhow, we’re trying to figure out where to tie in the output, and as it happens, the cleanout is in a great spot. So, the question: can we just put a Y coming off the end of the cleanout, and use that as the tie in? Basically make the cleanout a little longer. Vs trying to find a place to fit it in above: I suppose we could pretty easily come in on that smaller diameter diagonal bit, I don’t think the toilet output is 4”. Still, if extending the cleanout horizontally is an option, that’d probably be easiest. Like, the cleanout itself is a Y, and we’re thinking just stack another (horizontally) on there. e: That should say macerator but autocorrect had different ideas about this bathroom and I’m gonna let it ride.
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Apr 22, 2018 06:22
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I don't think you're supposed to put anything on the cleanout.
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Apr 22, 2018 06:30
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I mean, it’d sort of be replacing the cleanout with more cleanout, or just making it longer. There’d still be a screw cap on the end, just like is, but 8” longer or whatever the length of another Y is.
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Apr 22, 2018 14:56
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