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kid sinister posted:Did you take the back off the dryer, the duct out from inside the dryer and clean it and the fan out? Also, open the door on the front and look inside the dryer. Do you have fabric softener sheets completely blocking the air vent inside? That last one is really rare, but I've seen it happen. So I cleaned the dryer again and ran an entirely new duct out through the garage. I can't find a fan inside the dryer, but I dusted and vacuumed everything I could. The check filter light is apparently normal after completing a cycle (though I've never noticed it before), and I think we're good; I'm still not 100% sure, since there last two loads I've done have had one damp shirt in each -- seriously, all the other clothes were dry, but one shirt.
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Apr 6, 2018 14:51
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Wasabi the J posted:So I cleaned the dryer again and ran an entirely new duct out through the garage. I can't find a fan inside the dryer, but I dusted and vacuumed everything I could. From my limited experience all new dryers like to prompt you to check the filter every time. Better too often than not enough is the idea I suppose.
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Apr 6, 2018 15:03
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My dryer does this as well. I thought it was standard practice to clean the lint trap after every load, but then my latest housemate moved in. He's a savage, and never clears it. The nerve of some people.
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Apr 6, 2018 15:08
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Well it turns out that my roommate doesn't want me to touch the sink. She claims that the reason for the clog is mostly my fault, because since I moved in some months ago I often make tacos I don't clean the pan off, thus putting the juicy remains down the drain. I told her I was open to that, but I don't think that is what clogged it. Especially since I have never had that problem before in any other place I've lived. Is it likely that the bit of left over remains from my taco meat clogged the sink? DrBouvenstein posted:What he's saying is to take the plug/basket strainer for the sink, place it in the NON-disposal side, and while firmly holding down on it, turn on the disposal. Thanks.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:23
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Congealed grease can restrict flow in a pipe, yeah.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:27
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Yeah, a bit.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:30
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armorer posted:Congealed grease can restrict flow in a pipe, yeah. I understand. But it was pretty much neat juice and less than a tablespoon at a time. But nevertheless if you guys say that is likely the culprit, I'll tell her that I'll accept responsibility. It's just so odd to me because I have never had this problem before.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:33
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Its not really possible to say if you really caused your current problem, but grease down the drain absolutely will cause a clog eventually. The drain pipe in the ground is at something like 55 degrees or whatever and will rapidly cool the grease into a solid which sticks to the sides of the pipe like glue. Put enough down there and it will constrict the pipe and you'll start getting clogs until you have someone come out with a cutter head on a snake or hydro-jetter to clear the pipe.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:42
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It's entirely possible that your drain was nearly clogged already before you moved in, and you just put the last finishing touches on it.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:51
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glynnenstein posted:Its not really possible to say if you really caused your current problem, but grease down the drain absolutely will cause a clog eventually. The drain pipe in the ground is at something like 55 degrees or whatever and will rapidly cool the grease into a solid which sticks to the sides of the pipe like glue. Put enough down there and it will constrict the pipe and you'll start getting clogs until you have someone come out with a cutter head on a snake or hydro-jetter to clear the pipe. For reference I've been living here for six months. She says she wants me to pay for the plumber. I have the money for it, so that isn't the issue, but I just feel it is a bit unfair. Especially since she has clogged ot before apparently (she said she already used her free unclogging from the property manager before). Am I being an unreasonable lovely roommate? TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's entirely possible that your drain was nearly clogged already before you moved in, and you just put the last finishing touches on it. For reference, this is what I believe happened. I agree it could have been the straw that broken the camel's back, but the main culprit? That's odd to me.
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Apr 6, 2018 16:54
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If you've been disposing of drippings for 6 months, ya don't have a lot of argument. Suck it up and don't put grease down the drain in the future.
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Apr 6, 2018 17:45
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angryrobots posted:If you've been disposing of drippings for 6 months, ya don't have a lot of argument. Suck it up and don't put grease down the drain in the future. If this is the consensus of the thread. Then I'll tell her I'll pay for the repair.
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Apr 6, 2018 18:20
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punk rebel ecks posted:If this is the consensus of the thread. Then I'll tell her I'll pay for the repair. As someone that replaced the entire drain line from the sink to the stack because of coagulated grease, I concur. When I cut it out, 16' of the drain line was a solid core of grease save for the tiny hole in the center where I had run the plumber's snake just prior. Do the right thing and suck it up this time. If it clogs after 6 months of changing your ways, then it's her turn to own up. Edit: punk rebel ecks posted:Alright I'll tell her I'll pay for it. I can only venture a guess. For me at my current place, the drain line was drat near horizontal and wasn't supported well. When the drain line became heavy with clog material, it sagged a little between supports, exacerbating the problem. My point is that it's probably a little you, a little her, and maybe a little something outside your immediate control. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 18:42
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Shame Boner posted:As someone that replaced the entire drain line from the sink to the stack because of coagulated grease, I concur. When I cut it out, 16' of the drain line was a solid core of grease save for the tiny hole in the center where I had run the plumber's snake just prior. Alright I'll tell her I'll pay for it. Just curious though, why has this never happened to me before with my other sinks?
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Apr 6, 2018 18:46
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punk rebel ecks posted:Alright I'll tell her I'll pay for it. I've never had to pay for a drain snake in a rental in California. Is that the same in your state? Just don't mention the grease but also stop.
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Apr 6, 2018 19:53
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H110Hawk posted:I've never had to pay for a drain snake in a rental in California. Is that the same in your state? Just don't mention the grease but also stop. I'm not sure. I'm in Oregon.
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Apr 6, 2018 20:16
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lol internet. posted:Two questions. Just caulk it. The tube will say if it's paintable, so be sure to read it. And yes, they do make outdoor grade cat5e. They sell little 100' spools of it at Home Depot, but you'd have to go online if you want a 1000' box.
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Apr 6, 2018 21:58
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Shame Boner posted:I can only venture a guess. For me at my current place, the drain line was drat near horizontal and wasn't supported well. When the drain line became heavy with clog material, it sagged a little between supports, exacerbating the problem. Same, but like 40' I had to cut out. Not what I wanted to deal with only a few weeks after moving in. Or ever.  
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Apr 7, 2018 04:22
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lol internet. posted:Two questions. Something like this might work in conjunction with caulk: https://www.amazon.com/Through-Bush...0MYX9M92W2GND45 If you see a cable installer around your neighborhood who knows you might be able to talk them into just giving you one.
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Apr 7, 2018 04:37
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I'm building a small retaining wall in my backyard and the trench is done being excavated. However being that I live in the Pac Northwest there is now standing water in my trench. I'm using crushed gravel for the base; is there any concern with trying to lay the base with the water in the trench or should I wait until it dries out a bit so I can at least see the bottom?
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Apr 7, 2018 22:13
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On my apartment building, there are 3 commonly used doors. On 1 of these, the key often gets stuck in the lock. You can cause it to get stuck easier if you pull on the key gently while turning (just enough to remove the slop in the system). This is a recurring fault - we had the core replaced two times already and the problem always comes back - it is noticable after 3-6 months and gets worse over time. I had the local locksmiths take a look and they just said "well people must be yanking the lock via the key; stop using it wrong; pay 80€ for a new core thanks". Bunch of lazy rear end idiots just don't want to help find a proper solution, IMO. As it is some fancypants Abloy lock, there are not many locksmiths nearby who deal with it. I am working on getting a 2nd shop take a look but figured I would ask here, too. This is the only one out of 3 doors that exhibits this issue. In fact, this door also has an electronic touch key, so is perhaps not even the most heavily used (though it is the most central, so perhaps it evens out). Is there anything else that seems like a likely candidate for such a fault? What should I even investigate? The door, the lock and lever mechanism and everything else is likely cheapass contractor grade garbage but I am unsure what we should be aiming for to get a more robust solution than "stop using it wrong". I don't mind paying for a proper setup.
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Apr 8, 2018 14:47
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vulturesrow posted:I'm building a small retaining wall in my backyard and the trench is done being excavated. However being that I live in the Pac Northwest there is now standing water in my trench. I'm using crushed gravel for the base; is there any concern with trying to lay the base with the water in the trench or should I wait until it dries out a bit so I can at least see the bottom? I'd wait until you could at least see what you're doing. Laying the bottom layer is the most important.
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Apr 9, 2018 02:39
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So the turny dial on the adjustable shower holder on the riser rail I have broke off. It's pretty old, so I guess it was bound to happen eventually. I can't fit it back on, so I'll have to buy a new one, which is fine, they don't cost that much - but my question is, can I remove the screws that hold the riser rail in place without a drill? I don't have one (I'm not that much of a handyman so I never had a reason to have one before), and not really keen on investing in one, since I'm tight on cash. Image for reference: 
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Apr 9, 2018 11:43
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vulturesrow posted:I'm building a small retaining wall in my backyard and the trench is done being excavated. However being that I live in the Pac Northwest there is now standing water in my trench. I'm using crushed gravel for the base; is there any concern with trying to lay the base with the water in the trench or should I wait until it dries out a bit so I can at least see the bottom? No concern whatsoever. I laid a sea wall a number of years ago and it's the same procedure, just scaled up a bit. The first course was almost entirely underwater. It was definitely slower going, but you don't need to see the base to reference level off of it or to tamp it flat (it just makes a mess!)
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Apr 9, 2018 15:23
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Wahad posted:So the turny dial on the adjustable shower holder on the riser rail I have broke off. It's pretty old, so I guess it was bound to happen eventually. I can't fit it back on, so I'll have to buy a new one, which is fine, they don't cost that much - but my question is, can I remove the screws that hold the riser rail in place without a drill? I don't have one (I'm not that much of a handyman so I never had a reason to have one before), and not really keen on investing in one, since I'm tight on cash. I'm not entirely clear on what a shower holder/riser rail is, but you can just buy a Phillips-head screwdriver (where the head looks like a + shape). Get one about the size of the screw head in that photo, stick the screwdriver in the head, and turn counterclockwise (righty-tighty lefty-loosy, you want to loosen this screw) while holding the screwdriver firmly in the screw so it doesn't slip out. If you think you're at all likely to need to interact with screws again in the future, I'd suggest getting a set of driver bits and an interchangeable handle, something like this. It's a little more expensive than just buying a single screwdriver, but lets you deal with a variety of screw types and the ratcheting mechanism can come in handy. And if you ever do get a drill the driver bits can slot into the drill too.
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Apr 9, 2018 16:09
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TV wall mount question. Just moved into a house that the basement has drywall on top of concrete. The previous owner had a wall mount set up that they cut into the drywall, mounted ~2 inch thick wood onto the concrete and used that to drill into for their wall mount. The mount I bought has screws for both concrete and stud installation. I'm thinking if I just treat the whole thing like it's concrete, drill in about 3 inches (2" wood, 1" concrete), use the anchors, and attach the mount with 4 bolts I should be good. The tv itself only weighs about 30 lbs and the mount is about 15 lbs. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
lifts cats over head fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 03:52
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lifts cats over head posted:TV wall mount question. Just moved into a house that the basement has drywall on top of concrete. The previous owner had a wall mount set up that they cut into the drywall, mounted ~2 inch thick wood onto the concrete and used that to drill into for their wall mount. The mount I bought has screws for both concrete and stud installation. I'm thinking if I just treat the whole thing like it's concrete, drill in about 3 inches (2" wood, 1" concrete), use the anchors, and attach the mount with 4 bolts I should be good. The tv itself only weighs about 30 lbs and the mount is about 15 lbs. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Why not just treat it as a stud installation and mount to the wood? As you say, the TV doesn't weigh very much. Edit: if the provided stud-mount screws are too long to screw directly to the wood just ditch them for a few drywall screws. A 1.25 inch drywall screw into the wood at each corner of the mount will be more than enough to support the amount of weight you're dealing with. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 14:43
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Drywall screws are not PremiumSupport. I would use wood screws of an appropriate length and head size. Make sure they are either fully threaded, or the shank is no longer than the drywall depth so the threads can catch all the wood they can.
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Apr 10, 2018 16:32
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angryrobots posted:Drywall screws are not PremiumSupport. I would use wood screws of an appropriate length and head size. Make sure they are either fully threaded, or the shank is no longer than the drywall depth so the threads can catch all the wood they can. Maybe you missed it, but there is no drywall, the OP say's it's been cut away. OP has ~2 inches of wood that is being screwed straight into, and normally I agree a proper screw should be sought out. In this case however any course-thread screws with an inch of thread in the wood will be overkill given the total 45lb weight load.
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Apr 10, 2018 16:50
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It probably won’t matter in the end, but why would you suggest a drywall screw instead of a proper wood screw? Just a little weird is all.
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Apr 10, 2018 17:53
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Some people are infatuated with using drywall screws as wood screws because they're cheaper. They're not as strong and in most cases it probably won't matter but if the penalty is "I dropped my TV on the dog" I'd spend the extra penny on real wood screws personally.
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Apr 10, 2018 18:30
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PremiumSupport posted:In this case however any course-thread screws with an inch of thread in the wood will be overkill given the total 45lb weight load. Sure but sometimes things that hang may one time, one day have more force applied than intended or imagined; whether that thing becomes a swing for a child, a spot to snag (or hang) your clothes on, a prop for something falling (like a drunk), etc. In those cases, you'll be glad you overbuilt with the correct hardware for the application. Always over-fasten. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 18:49
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Shame Boner posted:Sure but sometimes things that hang may one time, one day have more force applied than intended or imagined; whether that thing becomes a swing for a child, a spot to snag (or hang) your clothes on, a prop for something falling (like a drunk), etc. In those cases, you'll be glad you overbuilt with the correct hardware for the application. Or hangs a different much heavier TV on that mount that they googled as rated for it (or reality: didn't). Or the mount is on an arm and suddenly it's 35lbs of TV 2' from the wall, etc. Just use the correct fastener. Don't be That Guy/Gal.
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Apr 10, 2018 19:53
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PremiumSupport posted:Maybe you missed it, but there is no drywall, the OP say's it's been cut away. OP has ~2 inches of wood that is being screwed straight into, and normally I agree a proper screw should be sought out. In this case however any course-thread screws with an inch of thread in the wood will be overkill given the total 45lb weight load. Testy testy! Drywall screws are not for hanging anything but drywall - they're made of brittle steel that will snap if shock loaded. Ask anyone who actually hangs drywall how many they wring off. Anyhow I stand by the point that I was making. Ensure that the fastener used is fully threaded. OP I know you were asking about using (I think) a concrete anchor and lag bolts through the whole thing and that's probably sturdy but not really how that was designed to be used?
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Apr 10, 2018 20:01
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angryrobots posted:OP I know you were asking about using (I think) a concrete anchor and lag bolts through the whole thing and that's probably sturdy but not really how that was designed to be used? Correct, I just wanted to make sure I'm not somehow sacrificing stability by driving a bolt through both the wood and the concrete. I recognize there are probably easier routes, but part of the goal was to avoid another hardware trip because I don't have any other screws around.
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Apr 10, 2018 20:58
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Just go buy some wood screws and drive them into the plywood, don't be a dumbass. It took you the better part of a day to respond after your initial question, it can't take that long to just go to any hardware store and get the proper screws.
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Apr 11, 2018 00:57
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punk rebel ecks posted:So I have a kitchen sink that is clogged. It has two sides, one with a disposal in it and the other with a regular sink drain. It works fine initially, but if you let the water run for 30 seconds or so it begins to clog. I tried Drano and it didn't work. Anything else I can do?' There is actually another technique you can use that I've had great success with over the years! Just get a standard bathroom plunger, cover & seal the non-clogged drain of the sink (if your sink has two basins), hold that cover down tight, and plunge away at the clogged drain! That often works wonders! I should caution you, though, that weakened drain pipes (like corroded metal ones or loose PVC) may come loose as well! I'd give that a shot before spending money! LOVE, VITALIS
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Apr 11, 2018 16:57
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Our apartment has this ikea dishwasher: SKINANDE Integrated dishwasher https://www.ikea.com/es/en/catalog/products/00385837/ The front panel popped off last night. One of the screws has kinda torn itself out of the pressboard cabinet piece:  Maybe some moisture got in there and weakened the material. Who knows. Anyway, this front cabinet piece needs to be mounted in this exact spot so all the kitchen cabinet doors line up pretty. How can I fix this, assuming I need to get that piece screwed into the exact same spot it just pulled itself out of??
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Apr 16, 2018 09:46
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Associate Christ
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Glue some toothpicks into the hole and cut them flush after it dries, or fill it with epoxy, let it cure, then drill a new pilot hole.
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Apr 16, 2018 15:20
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This towel bar my girlfriend has put off putting up is missing one of the set screws to attach the bar to the mounting bracket. The remaining one is a cone shape which looks like it'd be more secure since this bracket is angled. Is a flat topped screw going to work well enough? I'm having trouble finding a pointed one on the Home Depot web site. Would a smaller specialty hardware store be more likely?
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Apr 17, 2018 05:13
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