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Fermented Tinal posted:You're not supposed to bathe a 40 or a 70 in anything except for rivers and mudholes. I'd settle for a rinse at this point.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:06
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yeah given that all of this poo poo is held together with plastic push pins, that's the plan for anything not easily visible. I use them in place of plastic push pins anytime they don't come out in one piece, which is at least half of the time thanks to AZ heat.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:12
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I buy those replacement pins that have the screw centers. Only glass-reinforced nylon for me, thanks. ABS pins can rot in hell. Steel zip ties are great for bumper covers and similar, though. Just remember to roll the edges so they don't cut into the plastic loops.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:29
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:What kind of dykes are those? Kastien was right. They're some random knockoff of the Snapon. I don't remember if they're HF or some other rebrand but the knockoffs are essentially all the same. They're good for reaching in and getting impossible zip ties.
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Apr 7, 2018 03:31
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Dennis McClaren posted:Already looks like any TX cop would stop the Saturn for probable cause regarding looking like a drunk driver =p  at the PC. So, so right. But the car is in good condition overall - paint's in good shape, no peeling clearcoat, etc. I've never been pulled over in it (yet).The dedication is more because I have a full maintenance history for the past 5.5 years, and know every quirk and problem with the car (none major aside from the AC). What they're giving me honestly won't get me a reliable car, or at least one with so many records. This one has been reliable. Also, 99% of the damage is cosmetic. I'm less than $100 into the critical parts to make it drive again (tire, headlight, corner light, headlight bracket, pigtail to the headlight). The fender and bumper will be the big expenses, once I find matching ones (or buy and repaint). If you can get the car you've driven for 5 1/2 years back on the road for ~$500, when insurance is handing you $2000 (after deductible and buyback), would you do it? I owe a small fortune in back tolls, which will get paid with the excess. The rest will go to fixing the ac.
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Apr 7, 2018 07:52
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Darchangel posted:Thanks. One day it will be... better. It'll never be a show car, 'cuz then I would be afraid to drive it. I was wondering if those were window frames, or just some weird trim. Now I know. If you have another body that's a hardtop, why not switch over your good stuff to that body? And that quarter panel does look like my Impala, only mine's from a freezing-rain inspired meetup with a guard rail, which pushed the whole trunk parallelogram, as well as flattening the passenger rear quarter. So I figure, gently caress it, tinker on the mechanical stuff and don't worry about the cosmetics since it will never be worth fixing 100% right.
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Apr 7, 2018 07:52
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Dennis McClaren posted:Already looks like any TX cop would stop the Saturn for probable cause regarding looking like a drunk driver =p There's a LOT to be said for the devil you know versus the one you don't.
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Apr 7, 2018 07:57
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El Caminos kept the vent windows until 1972 tho, didn't they? Or was there some top trim level that didn't? Fiesta air filter doesn't actually look that bad for 40k miles (I forgot OK).
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Apr 7, 2018 11:18
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you can get the car you've driven for 5 1/2 years back on the road for ~$500, when insurance is handing you $2000 (after deductible and buyback), would you do it? I owe a small fortune in back tolls, which will get paid with the excess. The rest will go to fixing the ac. Two good options for looking for replacement fenders and bumpers here in Texas - Certifit, and LKQ. At my body shop, we use LKQ for 90% of our replacement bumpers that we order. Always great parts, fit well, no issues. Very affordable. Certifit are much much cheaper. They will work for you and look better than a wreck - but they're pliable and offer about as much protection as aluminum foil. But, as long as you don't have anyone bump you, they will at least look fine.
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Apr 7, 2018 15:08
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Dennis McClaren posted:Yes! That's a lot of spare cash left over. I also suspect most people, especially women, would call you and I cheap. One (wo)man's cheap is another man's financially responsible!
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Apr 7, 2018 21:18
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Nidhg00670000 posted:El Caminos kept the vent windows until 1972 tho, didn't they? Or was there some top trim level that didn't? That's true. I think they have completely different doors from normal A-bodies, but maybe it's just the window bit that's different. For sure the glass is shaped all weird because of the pillar swoosh.
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Apr 8, 2018 05:46
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Dennis McClaren posted:Yes! That's a lot of spare cash left over. I also suspect most people, especially women, would call you and I cheap. My GF said she would be pissed if I scrapped it, so I lucked out there.  (she hated it at first... for some reason she now likes it - also her first car was a salvage title Nissan Hardbody). Especially after seeing how little I'm going to spend to actually fix it. She's pushing me to get a new wheel (the old one got banged up pretty bad, but it's a factory alloy, not a steelie... takes a lot of work to bend one), but Discount Tire said it was still straight, so that's low on the priority list. Monday the new lights/wiring go on, and a liberal amount of duct tape gets applied to the fender and bumper, so that I can start driving it again; I only have the rental until Monday.I checked car-part and already found a matching fender an hour away (trying to get one that's already painted). Found exactly one bumper with the fog light cutouts on there though, and it doesn't list color - but it's only 30 miles away, so I shot them an email anyway. Pick n Pull has one bumper that will work at the location closest to me, though it'd need a repaint (wrong color, in excellent shape though, especially since it's off an 03.. mine's an 06). It looks like if I luck out and get a matching fender, bumper, and the bumper core, I'll be all in so far for about $350. I'd like to eventually get brand new headlights (one is yellowed a bit, the used one I got is yellowed pretty bad - was already planning on replacing them), which will be about $120-150 for a new aftermarket pair. Got the email today saying the check was being sent out. My only concern is the LF frame horn took a bit of a hit, but only at the very corner. The hood still seems to line up fine, so I doubt it pushed the radiator support over. The insurance adjuster agreed with me there.... also told me I'd be stupid not to buy it back if I'm not afraid of getting dirty. LF suspension may also be a concern, but if it's bent, well, that'll just accelerate the suspension refresh I had planned. Oh, also, the fender is plastic, so they generally just shatter or bounce back (so long as it's factory paint). Unless Certifit's replacement is metal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Apr 8, 2018 |
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Apr 8, 2018 07:42
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Good luck getting it all sorted out. I hope pressing the saturd back into service will be smooth. Content becaue suddenly I have some: I just paid a $150 CAD price premium for a new ignition cylinder that has a "glow" position. Thanks, -bs!
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Apr 8, 2018 19:07
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After I dropped my distributor back in with the new ignition module mounting I tried to start with no avail. Went back to basics and found tdc and timed it, still couldn’t get a start. Confirmed spark with the timing light. Removed air cleaner, but I couldn’t see well enough to confirm fuel. Tried both tanks. Realized the sound was he same when pumping each tank... it was out of gas. It now runs poorly again but at least timing is good, I can get back on the laptop and work out the fueling.
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Apr 8, 2018 20:06
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Changed the oil on wife's car and swapped back to non winter tires. 
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Apr 8, 2018 20:18
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Fermented Tinal posted:Good luck getting it all sorted out. I hope pressing the saturd back into service will be smooth. Well just went out to start it to move it, got a cloud of blue smoke and a flashing CEL.  Guessing it's letting a little oil by the valve guides, it's been parked for several days. Cleared up after minute. Code was cylinder 1.
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Apr 8, 2018 21:50
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Finally finished removing the wiring from my Focus SVT, properly diagnosed the bad fuel pump (mostly) and then swapped it out. Total of the removed wiring and associated crap. Tank heat shield is being replaced with adhesive backed heat barrier, because heat shields can kiss my rear end.  Badwiring.jpg with some amusing butt splice usage and the wire nuts lurking in the background.  Now it needs a headunit, new tires, a factory hood and a PDR guy to give it some love. I'm so glad it finally runs. It's been sitting since I got it ~5 months ago.
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Apr 8, 2018 22:31
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What the hell did they do to it?
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Apr 8, 2018 22:37
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Original owner was a 17 year old kid, put the lovely audio setup and alarm in it and a carbon fiber hood. My friend bought the car, put the factory hood back on but then years later the car got shot by a stray bullet down in Florida. He put the carbon hood back on and chalkboard painted it for some reason. Probably for drawing dicks on.
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Apr 8, 2018 23:10
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What the hell did they do to it? My advice with SVT Focuses is avoid because the odds of one of the previous owners having been a teenager or early 20s male that did stupid poo poo is almost 100%. Also the SVT specific parts are becoming as rare as unicorn blood.
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Apr 8, 2018 23:21
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Geoj posted:My advice with SVT Focuses is avoid because the odds of one of the previous owners having been a teenager or early 20s male that did stupid poo poo is almost 100%. Empirical evidence from autocross places a same-year ZX3 with hogged out suspension as being just about as fast or faster than a prepared SVT anyway.
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Apr 8, 2018 23:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Empirical evidence from autocross places a same-year ZX3 with hogged out suspension as being just about as fast or faster than a prepared SVT anyway. Most of the SVTF's advantages over the base Focus are low-hanging fruit - increased engine CR, free-flowing intake & exhaust, bigger brakes and slightly better suspension. The biggest benefit is the Getrag 6 speed/dual layshaft transmission which doesn't really show itself until you're on a road course.
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Apr 9, 2018 00:06
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I mounted the new tires for the Gambler 500 run I'm going on next month. Owning tire mounting and balancing equipment is awesome, I don't have to schedule my life around when the tire shop is open anymore. One last ride of glory for the old white MJ. I'll miss that truck after I part it out 
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Apr 9, 2018 05:44
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Attached the new mirror, verified it works (it's... not happy about being awoken from its slumber, but it works, just noisy). Started attaching the new headlight. So the hood still lines up fine with the passenger side fender, passenger side fender still lines up with the door (with the LOL GM panel gap). But the new headlight bucket doesn't line up. I discovered it's not OEM (the original had GM stamped on it, this has.. nothing - explains why the paint on the 03 it came from was so nice). Even loosely attaching it, I couldn't get the headlight to go in easily (it attaches via 2 pins, like the late 00s GMT trucks). Once I did get it in, I couldn't get what's left of the bumper to go around it. Also noticed the bumper was cracked around the passenger side headlight. Popped that headlight out; the pins came out easily, they went back in easily, but the bumper won't go back around the headlamp. What's left of the driver's side fender has obviously been pushed way up (toward the windshield), going by the marks on the bolt holes. I'm really hoping the bumper just needs to be completely removed (it's only held on on one side right now) to actually line up again, but the driver side headlight being so difficult to get into the bucket, and the bucket not really wanting to line up with the bolt holes, is a concern. I also drove it around my apartment complex a bit (briefly on the street as well, but seeing as only one headlight works, I didn't want to push my luck with the local PD), and it seems like it's pulling to the left a bit. Not sure if it's because the LF tire is brand new compared to about 1/3 worn (same tire as the rest), or if it's because something is bent. Handling seems as lovely as it ever was aside from that. At the moment, I'm into repairs for less than $100 (tire, headlight, headlight bucket, corner light, mirror). A friend that works at a shop said he'll throw it on the alignment rack for free to see if it's tweaked badly, so that's a plus. If it's tweaked too bad to align, then I'll cut my losses. It has a historical P0301 from earlier today. It was definitely only 1 cylinder missing, so I doubt it's a coil (it's batch fire, so only 2 coils), and given the smell/color/amount of blue smoke, gonna guess the valve guides are showing their age and letting some oil into the cylinders when parked for more than a day. The cranking was pretty uneven when this happened too (and hard to start - took 4 tries), but once I got home from work, it cranked normally, fired up on the first try, and ran fine when I drove it.  I'll do a compression test, but are the Ecotecs known for sticking valves? Oil consumption has always been 1-2 quarts between rather long oil changes (~9k, synthetic, going by the OLM).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:29 on Apr 9, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 07:26
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 Wouldn't you know it the thing sure does ride better now!
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Apr 9, 2018 22:46
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KakerMix posted:
Holy gently caress, you even got the bolts out.  Content for twice! I got the nose and fenders as aligned as they're gonna be: 
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Apr 9, 2018 23:07
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KakerMix posted:
Control arm or sway bar bushings?
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Apr 9, 2018 23:35
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Verman posted:Control arm or sway bar bushings? Leaf spring.
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Apr 9, 2018 23:38
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you don't post more about this car, I'm getting on a plane and finishing it for you. Not all that far. 2.73:1 gears in the rearend have something to do with that, though the lower first gear in the 200-4R helps, and the fact that it's an open diff, so you only have to overwhelm one tire. Also, those tires are dry as hell, now, so traction is limited at best. When the trans mission still shifted, I drove it once a week or so. AC works, so even summer driving was OK. Don't worry, that car is MY car. It's me. Unless I am horribly destitute and my family needs food, it will not be sold, and I will bring it back to glory. It may be a retirement project, but it will happen. Raluek posted:I was wondering if those were window frames, or just some weird trim. Now I know. If you have another body that's a hardtop, why not switch over your good stuff to that body? Because I don't want a hardtop? I *like* my post coupe, not to mention it's rarer that any other body style. Not necessarily worth more, just different. Nidhg00670000 posted:El Caminos kept the vent windows until 1972 tho, didn't they? Or was there some top trim level that didn't? Yep. El Caminos kept the entire body from the doors rearward 1968-1972 (including the framed door windows with vent windows), which is why 70-72 El Camino fenders are different from 70-72 Malibu/Chevelle. Raluek posted:That's true. I think they have completely different doors from normal A-bodies, but maybe it's just the window bit that's different. For sure the glass is shaped all weird because of the pillar swoosh. Doors are the same as 68-9 Chevelle, except the window frames. Good news is that and the pillared 68-9 Chevelles made it easy for me to get weatherstripping for the front doors. Rear side windows are a different story. No one makes windows channel specifically for post coupe A-bodies, or X-bodies (Nova). I ended up getting a sample of '50s window channel from Year One, and verifying that it would fit. Had to transfer some riveted brackets. Changing gears (heh) slightly, I pulled the blown engine out of my '79 RX-7. Before:  6 hours later, after:  It's been sitting for 10 years, since losing compression. Amazingly, the coolant was still green. Oil was a bit thick, though, no water. I have and '84 GSL-SE that has a Series 4 FC RX-7 engine that had coolant o-ring issues. I used what's known as the "Block Seal Trick" on it years ago to stop from leaking compression into the cooling jacket. It seemed to have worked at the time, and I removed the intake to put the proper one on back then... and got distracted. I'm going to pull that engine, check it over, and dump it into the '79, hopefully with the EFI, and run it until it pops or I find another FC engine I can afford. Probably strip everything else from that GSL-SE chassis (my '79 is already wearing it's suspension) and scrap it if no one wants the shell. That'll be one more RX-7 gone, and one more (currently zero) running. edit: I should mention that I had to drag it out of the backyard to do this. The AE86 came in really handy for that. Since it has tow hooks in the front, I could back up and watch the RX-7 while I pulled it out. edit 2: I hurt from all the bending and crawling. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 23:46
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Fermented Tinal posted:Holy gently caress, you even got the bolts out. Like I said in the chat thread, no drama at all besides Toyota's cool 'you don't mind right?' fuel tank right in the way. Pretty jealous of your garage, I was rolling around the driveway the whole time. At least I have a carport. Verman posted:Control arm or sway bar bushings? As was said already, leaf spring bushings. All 24 of 'em. 
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Apr 10, 2018 01:23
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Took the headlights apart on the 31 Chevy. The passenger side polished up nicely. Unfortunately, the PO painted the reflector on the driver's side with chrome paint. I'm probably going to have to send them off to be rechromed.
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Apr 10, 2018 01:36
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KakerMix posted:Like I said in the chat thread, no drama at all besides Toyota's cool 'you don't mind right?' fuel tank right in the way. Pretty jealous of your garage, I was rolling around the driveway the whole time. At least I have a carport. Guess where my fuel tank goes.  Soon I'll be jealous of your carport and level driveway. The shop's on some property my parents are putting up for sale soon. Shame too, since we really only just got the shop comfortable enough to work inside of in winter, gonna miss the 2 post something fierce too.
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Apr 10, 2018 01:51
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Cutting my losses on it. Got the new to me used headlight and bucket bolted up, realized the headlight is way off from where it should be. Started looking at panel gaps (which are LOL GM to begin with) and realized the entire front clip has shifted over a bit. Way beyond what I can fix. If it was just the radiator support, I'd hammer it out. Plus, getting body panels is turning out to be a pain. The few I've found at semi-local junkyards are either the wrong year, or the yards aren't interested in checking to see if they still have them unless I go in person. LKQ has discontinued new parts, Certifit said it'd be up to 2 months to get them (backordered, probably until they have enough people interested in them to do another run). After seeing how much the same car goes for, I'm wishing I'd argued for more on the value, though the ones I'm finding online (Craigslist and various dealer sites) all have much lower mileage. The sedans depreciated pretty bad, the coupes held their value pretty well for a GM (much better than the Cobalt and G5 counterparts). Thinking of buying a friend's G35 sedan. He doesn't want much for it ($1500); it has a salvage title, but he's the one that caused the salvage - he rearended someone, new hood + radiator + bumper and it looks okay (kinda beat, but that's to be expected for an 03 with 200k). A/C works, but it's automatic and has as many miles as the Saturd. I know he's done basic maintenance, and it hasn't been beat on, but that many miles on an automatic is kinda scary to me. Nissan did move to a timing chain on those... right?  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 02:11
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That's a fuckin bummer.
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Apr 10, 2018 02:13
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Well, the upside is I'm out less than $100 on the parts I did get for it.
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Apr 10, 2018 02:16
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Yeah it has a chain. I’d be more worried about weird electrical issues than anything else, that’s right when Renault became involved and started overcomplicating everything.
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Apr 10, 2018 03:40
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RIP Saturd 
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Apr 10, 2018 03:44
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Well, the upside is I'm out less than $100 on the parts I did get for it. LKQ allows returns, does the yard you got them from?
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Apr 10, 2018 03:45
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No, only exchanges (Pick n Pull). Part of (the bulk of) that cost was a new tire, which you can't really return; I hit PnP on 50% off weekend.dissss posted:Yeah it has a chain. Funny you mention that. It starts and runs fine with a jump, but doesn't seem to be charging (yet the alternator light isn't lit while running). His mechanic thinks it's corrosion. I'm guessing battery or cables/terminals corrosion. He (friend) doesn't know enough about electrical to do a diagnosis, but I told him I wanted to check it out with a multimeter before committing (also his "mechanic" is a parts swapper with no diagnostic capabilities). The alternator is putting out enough power to keep the car and accessories running; once it's started, it runs and drives fine, but it just clicks on the next restart attempt. It's technically a 1 owner car (it's been passed around between 3 family members, but never transferred). I know it has a newish starter on it (he called me for help a year ago when it refused to start near my place; starter was dead), and I know the alternator is only a couple of years old. The $1500 price was offered before it started having charging system issues; he has pretty severe car ADD, and bought the Prius I almost bought. He's already held on to the Prius for longer than any other car since I've known him... he tends to buy $1000 beaters every few months. Seat Safety Switch posted:RIP Saturd 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 05:36
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Sorry for your loss, STR. 
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Apr 10, 2018 14:55
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