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If you get a high quote, it's probably because the contractor didn't want the job in the first place. As for whether the quote is actually high, this is why you solicit multiple quotes.
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Apr 10, 2018 20:51
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I really wanna know how the gently caress ants are on the counter by the stove (which is practically in the middle of the house) without any clear trails leading outside. Time to do the spring spraying outside and in the crawl space! Already hosed down the kitchen perimeter and they’re still showing up, wtf. I’ve had good success with the Ortho home defense spray, any others out there worth trying?
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Apr 11, 2018 15:03
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Sepist posted:I'm looking at getting solar but need a new roof first. We have an ugly aluminum awning over our 6'x20' front porch that we want to integrate with our existing roof line on the first floor (we have a 2 story but it has that midroof I don't know what the name is). One highly recommended roofer came by when I wasn't home and left a quote of 10k for just the new roof, and ignored the awning replacement. I called him about it and he spent 10 minutes whining about the cost/work of having to convert the awning and quoted me an addition 5 - 6k. I was really turned off by his whining about the job though. It's like the guy doesn't want money. I'm guessing he would have to subcontract it out and doesn't want to get involved with that? By "integrating" the awning, I'm assuming you mean actually replacing the awning with a framed porch roof? If so, the roofer probably doesn't want to screw around with that, as most roofers are in the business of just replacing roofing materials and decking. You might want to look for a general construction contractor.
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Apr 11, 2018 15:33
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devmd01 posted:I really wanna know how the gently caress ants are on the counter by the stove (which is practically in the middle of the house) without any clear trails leading outside. Time to do the spring spraying outside and in the crawl space! Already hosed down the kitchen perimeter and they’re still showing up, wtf. Terro liquid ant bait. You set it out, they go to town on it and bring it back to the hell from whence they came. It goes against instinct to just let them run around and not kill them on-sight but after a few days they’re completely gone.
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Apr 11, 2018 15:40
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meat police posted:Terro liquid ant bait. You set it out, they go to town on it and bring it back to the hell from whence they came. It goes against instinct to just let them run around and not kill them on-sight but after a few days they’re completely gone. Seconded. I had a minor ant infestation because the cat had been flinging food under stuff that I couldn't see last fall. A few strategically placed Terro baits (look at their tracks and put them right there) and a few days and they were entirely gone.
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Apr 11, 2018 16:05
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Also used Terro bait, worked ok. I believe it's just borax and sugar (?) so it's pretty innocuous. Terro is just an easily found brand, so anything with boric acid should do the trick.
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Apr 11, 2018 16:48
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I've had good results dumping diatomaceous earth wherever ants were trying to breach my castle. It has the advantage of not being a poison, and essentially harmless to vertebrates. It works by being sharp on a very tiny level so it cuts their little exoskeletons up.
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Apr 11, 2018 17:09
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The downside is that it can be messy and it's rendered ineffective if it gets wet. But it's effective enough that dusting it around windows, outside doors, & any other nooks and crannies bugs might use is well worth it even as a preventative measure. You also want to make sure you get food grade DE and not pool grade - pool grade is processed differently enough that it's less effective for pest control and potentially hazardous to people and pets.
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Apr 11, 2018 18:12
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Leperflesh posted:It has the advantage of not being a poison The LD50 of boric acid is higher than table salt.
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Apr 11, 2018 18:44
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Motronic posted:The LD50 of boric acid is higher than table salt. and also even water has an LD50, so I'm not sure what you're saying in that regard either. e. for reference, chemically diatomaceous earth is mostly SiO2. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 18:52
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Yeah I think that borax and DE are approximately equal when it comes to toxicity; I wouldn't really want to eat (or inhale) either of them kind of like how I don't want to eat soap
QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 18:52
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Leperflesh posted:Diatomaceous earth is not boric acid, though... Terro is (and sugar and water). That was my point. It sounded like you were calling it "poison".
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Apr 11, 2018 18:57
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Leperflesh posted:Diatomaceous earth is not boric acid, though... Terro's poisonous (to ants) ingredient is boric acid
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Apr 11, 2018 19:02
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Food-grade diatomaceous earth is safe to eat. It's just the skeletons of diatoms compressed into a rock formation: it's approximately the same as eating a little bit of sand. Its mechanism as an insecticide is physical rather than chemical: it abrades their exoskeletons and absorbs moisture, dessicating them. One should certainly not inhale it, or get it into your eyes, although I found tests that showed no mortality from inhalation, and rapid recovery from any abrasion caused by eye contact. All LD50 data I can find is based on zero mortality in studies that tested specific amounts, and thus declares the LD50 as being somewhere above that amount, for example "LD50 - rat - > 2,000 mg/kg" which means no rats died from being dosed with 2000 mg/kg. Which is a lot.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:03
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Motronic posted:Terro is (and sugar and water). That was my point. It sounded like you were calling it "poison". Motronic posted:Terro is (and sugar and water). That was my point. It sounded like you were calling it "poison". Ah, I see. Although my post came immediately after LogisticEarths, it was not intended as a response to his post, and I did not intend to imply that Terro was expecially toxic. It was just a general post that DE is a nontoxic alternative to many commonly used insecticides.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:05
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I used diluted orange oil last year. It was loving brutal. Ant genocide.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:08
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And that's another example of fun with chemistry: orange oil, while a natural product, is toxic. Very mildly so, but it will cause skin irritation, is toxic to aquatic animals, and it's also nicely flammable! I mean it's a very safe product to use that breaks down naturally and I'm in favor of it, I'm just saying. Acute oral toxicity (LD50): 4400 mg/kg [Rat]. E.g., they managed to actually kill rats with it, by giving them massive oral doses of the stuff.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:14
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Borax stopped working for me eventually (Terro brand or homebrew borax+sugar.) Had to go with scorched earth poison ("Do lot eat food where plants whose water had this in it grew.") I would hunt down exactly where they were getting in and put like 5 grains there and they would be gone in 24 hours. Fortunately they have always been coming in from outside the house, but I feel it's only a matter of time before they start in the crawlspace and go up the pilings.
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Apr 11, 2018 19:45
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LogisticEarth posted:By "integrating" the awning, I'm assuming you mean actually replacing the awning with a framed porch roof? If so, the roofer probably doesn't want to screw around with that, as most roofers are in the business of just replacing roofing materials and decking. You might want to look for a general construction contractor. This is what I realized. I had a third & older roofer come by and he was incredibly helpful. He had the eye of an architect, he looked at my awning for a few seconds while I was droning on about replacing the sled aluminum roof with a sled shingle roof and he suggested a gable or hip roof would make this the best looking house on the street. I drew it up in photoshop and it looks loving amazing. I'm going to have my wifes uncle who is a carpenter quote it out and have the roofer finish the shingle work. Even if he's higher than the other 2 quotes I might just give him the business because of how great his recommendation was.
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Apr 12, 2018 01:33
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Leperflesh posted:And that's another example of fun with chemistry: orange oil, while a natural product, is toxic. Very mildly so, but it will cause skin irritation, is toxic to aquatic animals, and it's also nicely flammable! I mean it's a very safe product to use that breaks down naturally and I'm in favor of it, I'm just saying. Acute oral toxicity (LD50): 4400 mg/kg [Rat]. E.g., they managed to actually kill rats with it, by giving them massive oral doses of the stuff. Yeah plenty of natural things are toxic. This one happens to be unbelievably toxic to ants. gently caress ants. Use orange oil, very easy to apply.
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Apr 12, 2018 18:39
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just spray oven cleaner on the ants
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Apr 12, 2018 19:07
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So... Opinions on repainting the whole house? Going to be completely repainting the interior of the house and kind of on the fence about doing airless spray gun vs old fashioned brush roller. I am a complete beginner painter, I painted an apartment I moved into years ago and I thought it looked pretty good but never have had any experience with an airless sprayer. I know that there are both pros and cons to both methods mainly being prep factor with the sprayer taking a very long time, as well as the sprayer using up a lot more paint. But the main benefits of it being you can spray whatever faster. If I was going to do just one color for the ceilings + walls + trim I would probably just do the sprayer. But they are all going to be different colors, at least the walls will be.
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Apr 12, 2018 19:37
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I've been dreading Spring all year, because with it returns my new nemesis: dandelions. I tried a spot treatment once last year in the fall and wasn't satisfied when they kept growing, so I tried digging their roots up but mostly succeeded in loving my lawn up. Should I stick with the spot treatment and just apply it every other day I'm not mowing/it's not raining? I've read some articles that talk about a vinegar mixture but I can't imagine that being better than the stuff I've already purchased. Also, once I irradicate these weeds I want to try any make my lawn look a little better. I feel like there are three types of grass growing on my yard (and only my yard, my neighbors seem to be pretty uniform) and I don't know how to correct it. Some companies have come to my house trying to sell me on their lawn care service, but I don't know if I want another monthly bill in my life right now. I don't even know what they would be doing.
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Apr 12, 2018 19:44
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LawfulWaffle posted:I've been dreading Spring all year, because with it returns my new nemesis: dandelions. I tried a spot treatment once last year in the fall and wasn't satisfied when they kept growing, so I tried digging their roots up but mostly succeeded in loving my lawn up. Should I stick with the spot treatment and just apply it every other day I'm not mowing/it's not raining? I've read some articles that talk about a vinegar mixture but I can't imagine that being better than the stuff I've already purchased. What region are you in? That will help determine what grasses are best. "Uniformity" looks sterile to me, but my take on lawns comes from pasture management and pollinator habitat. You probably have a mix of ryes, fescue, and kentucky bluegrass. The classic uniform lawn is pure bluegrass. The really classic lawn is bluegrass with white clover. Of course, now people don't like clover because it doesn't look uniform, but it does give you free nitrogen. Renovating the lawn to give you that nice uniform appearance with no weeds will likely involve lots of herbcide and reseeding.
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Apr 12, 2018 20:55
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Etrips posted:So... Opinions on repainting the whole house? Going to be completely repainting the interior of the house and kind of on the fence about doing airless spray gun vs old fashioned brush roller. I am a complete beginner painter, I painted an apartment I moved into years ago and I thought it looked pretty good but never have had any experience with an airless sprayer. As a novice I would use a roller. It doesn't take as long as you might think. Sprayers require a ton of taping prep work which will be extremely slow for you to finish unless you have dexter-like practice as taping up plastic. Buy high quality rollers, a high quality handle, and make sure you have a screw on broom handle for bigger areas. Make sure to completely saturate your roller with paint and practice on a wall where you don't care about hitting the ceiling on. You still need to prep everything by taking off all of oyour outlet covers, taping over the outlets themselves, things like that. Buy the big contractor roll of plastic for the floor, or some drop clothes. You can save a roller for lunch if you wrap it snugly in a plastic bag, but assume one per color. They take forever to wash. Buy high quality brushes for edge work, a $10-20 Wooster brand brush will make your day way more pleasant than the $5 brush. Take the time to wash it out, don't get paint too high on the bristles, and watch a youtube video on how to draw up paint (hint: patience) and your edging will fly by. Buy a 10-for-$10 pack (or whatever) of the cheapest small brushes to use as disposable touchup brushes. If you're willing to be patient edging doesn't need tape. Buy a package of rags and keep a wet one on hand, wipe oopses immediately.
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Apr 12, 2018 22:27
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I'm selling a house I don't live in any more, and it's currently being rented out. While buying that house, and overseeing renovations through a GC hired as part of the mortgage, I learned a billion things the hard way because I didn't know what I didn't know. Is there a thread or FAQ here for selling a house for first-timers? It's in a very bubble-y area of North Carolina so every agent I contacted has been up my rear end. Zeris fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Apr 12, 2018 |
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Apr 12, 2018 22:52
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LawfulWaffle posted:I've been dreading Spring all year, because with it returns my new nemesis: dandelions. I tried a spot treatment once last year in the fall and wasn't satisfied when they kept growing, so I tried digging their roots up but mostly succeeded in loving my lawn up. Should I stick with the spot treatment and just apply it every other day I'm not mowing/it's not raining? I've read some articles that talk about a vinegar mixture but I can't imagine that being better than the stuff I've already purchased. 1) where are you? I am guessing cool season lawn 2) best way to stop dandelions is to put down a preemergent herbicide in early March. It's too late now. 3) you should have annual limits on the spot treatment chemicals. Do NOT apply daily, you'll kill the grass and risk actually toxic build up in the soil of what should otherwise be a fairly safe chemical. Most post emergent herbicides will show results within 1-2 weeks. Treat and repeat two weeks later should be as hard as you need to hit. 4) as said, if it's cool season you probably have a mix of bluegrass, rye, and fescue. I'll also throw in you might have some poa annua and or poa trivialis, which are somewhat "weedy" bluegrass variants that tend to look discolored (lime green, big bunchy clumps). You might also have dog spots -- if it doesn't outright kill the grass, dogs peeing on your lawn will dump a ton of nitrogen in one spot and make it look like a clump of different grass variety is growing there. With more info on location and desired effort I can give more detailed advice, but if you want to improve the look of your lawn I'd suggest mowing high (3-4") and not adding too much fertilizer, then in September aerating and power raking, throwing down a ton of overseed with some starter fert, and watering daily for about 2-3 weeks after. And throw down a bag of Milorganite every 6 weeks or so until November.
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Apr 13, 2018 02:35
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Hubis posted:2) best way to stop dandelions is to put down a preemergent herbicide in early March. It's too late now. As someone who grew up landscaping (read: mostly running mowers, that's the deal) I have to ask what exactly you are talking about here. The standard effective treatment (when in lawns) is 2,4-D after they leaf out in the late spring and then agin in the fall. And pre emergents I'm aware of (granted this was a while ago) are also going to kill grass, so that simple wasn't something we applied. My PUC number is long expired, but have there been that many advances that I'm not aware of? Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 03:21
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I have a double paned window that is letting air through because the glass appears to be a bit loose in the frame. The frame is aluminum and is fixed in place, but I can push the glass quite a bit on the bottom middle of the frame to the point that it makes a ~1/8th or more gap, and when it's windy outside it makes a funny fart noises as the air blows through whatever padding is in there. I can't access it from outside because it's on my sloped roof and I'm a chicken, so with that in mind would it be possible to fix it from the inside? Could I just push the window out a bit and shoot a bunch of caulk into the gap and then let the window relax so it fills in? Or do I need to contact a window company to come out and look at it from both sides and fix it the right way? If the caulk option isn't too stupid, is there a special kind I should use? Clear adhesive 100% silicone I would think.
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Apr 13, 2018 03:46
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IIRC double-paned windows are supposed to be "filled" with a vacuum (or else with some low-density gas) to provide extra insulation, which you've already lost as your window's seal is clearly compromised. Still, if you seal it in so it can't move, air is still a decent insulator. The main problem is that you might seal moisture in there as well, which could condense on the inside of the pane. I guess it's unlikely you'd get mildew, since there's probably nothing on the inside for it to eat, but the condensation would be irritating. Maybe rip open one of those silica packets and try to get the beads inside the frame? But yeah, assuming replacing the window isn't an option I'd just caulk 'er up. Any kind of caulk should do fine at sealing the gap, so just use whatever makes sense aesthetically.
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Apr 13, 2018 04:06
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Thanks, wife and I are going to go this route.
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Apr 13, 2018 06:31
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I live near Columbus, OH. The mix of grass makes sense and I'll keep the time frames for spot treatments in mind so I don't go overboard. We had a lot of rain and snow all year up until this week, really, so I didn't think to do much lawn treatment before now, but I'll make a note to revisit the topic of improving my lawn's look in August so I can get equipped.
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Apr 13, 2018 13:50
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(caveat: I am not a lawn care professional, just a dangerously informed homeowner with a bunch of reading and youtube videos under my belt. Also this is specific to cool season grasses -- products and timing will differ for warm season grasses)Motronic posted:As someone who grew up landscaping (read: mostly running mowers, that's the deal) I have to ask what exactly you are talking about here. Foor general broadleaf control 2,4-D is the backbone of what I use, yeah, though the standard is a 3-way mix of 2,4-D, Mecoprop-p, and Dicambra. Lower doses of each attacking in different modes synergistically to increase effectiveness. Like this: https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/weed-control/ortho-weed-b-gon-weed-killer-lawns-concentrate2 For crabgrass you want something with Quinclorac in it, though, as it is resistant to most post-emergent treatment once it gets past the first few tillers. Something like this: https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/weed-control/ortho-weed-b-gon-plus-crabgrass-control-concentrate2 That will cover most thing. For some of the especially hearty stuff (wild violets and creeping charlie for me) a spot application of Triclopyr will work: https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/weed-control/ortho-weed-b-gon-chickweed-clover-oxalis-killer-lawns-concentrate There are also some that are specifically targeted at sedges/oniongrass if that is your main focus. Two seasonal blanket treatments work well if you get the weeds when they are young and vulnerable/actively growing. If you have mature broadleaf weeds then you might have to do multiple applications, so you would want to do them at the recommended frequency (1x/season up to 2x/year, every 2-3 weeks, whatever your label recommends) to hit them while they are already weakened. Multiple products also lets you aavoid frequency issues -- do a 2,4-d/quinclorac/dicamba blanket in the spring and then spot treat anything that pops up/survives with trilopyr, for example. Again (and this is for the thread as I know I don't need to tell you): read the product label for whatever you are using! Blends and concentrations vary and will have different intended usage rates. And most of this stuff is available as pre-diluted ready-to-use formulations if you don't want to mess with measuring concentrate or a sprayer. Motronic posted:And pre emergents I'm aware of (granted this was a while ago) are also going to kill grass, so that simple wasn't something we applied. My PUC number is long expired, but have there been that many advances that I'm not aware of? So I am not sure what products you would have been using, but yeah definitely. This is the "weed" part of the "weed-and-feed" products you see. There are a lot of various products (Prodiamine and Dithiopyr are two popular chemicals) that form a thin chemical layer at the top of the soil and essentially prevent seeds from germinating successfully for about 2-3 months. This means your established grass (and also mature weeds) wont be affected, but weed seeds that have blown in will not be able to grow, greatly reducing the amount of post-emergent control you need. Now this will also affect your grass seeds, so you kind of have to choose between overseeding or weed control each season. General practice for cool season lawns is to do pre-emergent in the Spring and overseed in the Fall (although if your turf is thick you can do pre-emergent in the fall as well to knock out winter annual weeds). There is also cool stuff like Tupersan that is safe for grass seed as well. DoMyOwn is a great source for this stuff if you are into the "Pro-Am Gardening" kind of thing. https://www.domyown.com/lawn-garden-c-59.html
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Apr 13, 2018 14:23
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This is why I just pay someone, I don’t have time to figure that poo poo out!
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Apr 13, 2018 14:45
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devmd01 posted:This is why I just pay someone, I don’t have time to figure that poo poo out! This is the right and good thing to do unless you are an obsessive serial hobbiest like me and immediately go down whatever rabbit hole you find if it's an opportunity to buy new toys/tools and devote hours of your life into perfecting someone most people will not care nearly as much about. It's kind of like owning a reef tank they my kids can play on. That being said, you can get probably 70% of the results with 30% of the mental/physical effort.
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Apr 13, 2018 15:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:IIRC double-paned windows are supposed to be "filled" with a vacuum (or else with some low-density gas) to provide extra insulation, which you've already lost as your window's seal is clearly compromised. Still, if you seal it in so it can't move, air is still a decent insulator. The main problem is that you might seal moisture in there as well, which could condense on the inside of the pane. I guess it's unlikely you'd get mildew, since there's probably nothing on the inside for it to eat, but the condensation would be irritating. Maybe rip open one of those silica packets and try to get the beads inside the frame? Thanks for the reply, I live in the desert so fog dies fast here. I noticed a bunch of my windows are kind of loose in that same spot (bottom middle) so maybe I'll call a window repair place and see if they have better resealing options and can reseal a bunch of them for me, otherwise I'll just silicone them up as I find them.
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Apr 13, 2018 15:19
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devmd01 posted:This is why I just pay someone, I don’t have time to figure that poo poo out! A one time go with a professional to get you down to a baseline can also be a life saver. Watching the guys convert a back yard of 6' tall dandelions into a pile of root balls in a few hours was impressive. They used this pole with a sharp triangle on the bottom and a peg to push with your foot. Made short work of them, but they also are handily twice my strength and accuracy due to doing it probably 6 days a week.
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Apr 13, 2018 15:20
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Hubis posted:So I am not sure what products you would have been using, but yeah definitely. This is the "weed" part of the "weed-and-feed" products you see. Don't use weed and feed on lawns. This is simply bad advice and every ag school with a turf department will tell you the same. You seem to be vastly overcomplicating this entire process. If that's what you like because it's you "hobby", great. But it's super unnecessary and as someone who used to be a licensed applicator I can tell you it's on the verge of "things they strongly suggest we should not be doing." Like, if the lawn is that hosed up it's more environmentally responsible to glyphosate the entire thing and just start over.
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Apr 13, 2018 16:34
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Motronic posted:Don't use weed and feed on lawns. This is simply bad advice and every ag school with a turf department will tell you the same. To be clear, I agree with you -- I just cited it as an example of pre-emergent herbicide being pretty common. The main purpose of the pre-emergent is to catch crabgrass (which can be hard to get rid of later) and reduce the amount of post-emergent herbicide you need to use for new weeds. With a separate PE app you can get away with just focusing it on areas prone to grow more aggressive weeds (sunny locations with thin turf) and then spot-spray areas. Motronic posted:You seem to be vastly overcomplicating this entire process. If that's what you like because it's you "hobby", great. But it's super unnecessary and as someone who used to be a licensed applicator I can tell you it's on the verge of "things they strongly suggest we should not be doing." Like, if the lawn is that hosed up it's more environmentally responsible to glyphosate the entire thing and just start over. Again to be clear, I don't use all those things listed (and certainly not in a blanket application across the lawn) I was just providing some examples to show how "Pre-emergents are poison and 2,4-D is all you need" isn't quite the case anymore. From an environmental perspective you can get the same/better efficacy using less overall product by being a little smarter with it. And above all the best way to reduce the need for any of this in the first place is by having a thick, vigorous turf and good cultural practices. And, once more, this is all strongly gated on how much you really care to begin with. There's a lot of stops along the road between "pristine golf-course conditions" and "weeds mostly under control" and "overrun suburban prairie".
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Apr 13, 2018 19:19
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LawfulWaffle posted:I live near Columbus, OH. The mix of grass makes sense and I'll keep the time frames for spot treatments in mind so I don't go overboard. We had a lot of rain and snow all year up until this week, really, so I didn't think to do much lawn treatment before now, but I'll make a note to revisit the topic of improving my lawn's look in August so I can get equipped. This playlist shows a very basic plan that's great for for where you're located: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYAXY0GXb7o It's really not very involved (I did tend to make things seem complicated). The key thing is that while it's probably too late for a pre-emergent treatment it's still perfect timing (especially since you're in a cooler location) to do your spring care. For established dandelions the best route might be mechanical removal (if there aren't too many of them). The key there is to make sure you get the whole tap-root out -- using something like a screwdriver (or even a special weeding tool that looks basically like a slot-head screwdriver) to dig down around the base of the plant first helps a lot. Otherwise it's probably not unusual for your lawn to look a little rough at this point, as it's probably just coming out of cold-weather dormancy. Put down some starter fertilizer/milorganite soonish and some more nitrogen sometime in the end of May and it'll improve a lot. And mow high (3" minimum, ideally more like 4").
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Apr 13, 2018 21:08
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