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I am not sure why HSS precludes quick tool changes? Works alright for me once I got it set up. Everytime I grind a piece I have to dial it in again it ofcourse, which happens a lot as I am learning what works best.
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Apr 3, 2018 04:30
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sharkytm posted:Sweet. Needs a modern tool post, but that's a nice setup. Looks like a short bed, too. Its on the list. I have two bookmarked on amazon, I just need to do a bit of research into which one I want. Plan is to use carbide insert tooling as much as possible but ill have the hss around if i need something custom
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Apr 3, 2018 20:07
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoO2fJ5NmBw This guy rules. Only 3 videos so far, but what amazing work!
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Apr 4, 2018 02:18
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iForge posted:Its on the list. I have two bookmarked on amazon, I just need to do a bit of research into which one I want. Plan is to use carbide insert tooling as much as possible but ill have the hss around if i need something custom I'd go with HSS, insert tooling isn't great for home gamers. It needs to much feed and tool pressure. You can get a much finer point on HSS and have it survive, plus you can sharpen your own poo poo instead of being beholden to the insert manufacturers. Threading tools and parting tools are an exception. Or go insert, they're cool as gently caress.
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Apr 4, 2018 02:49
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sharkytm posted:I'd go with HSS, insert tooling isn't great for home gamers. It needs to much feed and tool pressure. You can get a much finer point on HSS and have it survive, plus you can sharpen your own poo poo instead of being beholden to the insert manufacturers. i decided on a tool post and bought a small starter kit of insert tooling to mess around with. I have a bunch of HSS to use as well. The tool post cross slide nut will require modification to fit my lathe but I can have that done easily enough.
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Apr 4, 2018 03:03
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I've mentioned this before but always check Mitsubishi's insert offerings once you know what size and form you need, they're still offering crazy discounts trying to break into the NA market.
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Apr 4, 2018 03:10
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Well I fought the power and won. Got the worklight on my lathe to work. Turns out it was a hookup error. Lathe is 3-phase and I have hooked up all the phases and earth, it's all a 3ph motor needs, no neutral is usually needed... unless you wanna run anything single phase of a single phase of the same circuit. So no current could actually flow through the lamp as it was and it gave my multimeter weird readings like 190V (230v per phase here). I feel like I am slowly working out all the kinks this lathe has. Next project is to fit a protective sheet above the ways and also the lead screw. Also looking into adding oil fittings on the sled, basically drilling holes and threading them so I can use my oil can and oil the ways directly under the sled:  In the future I'd also like to improve the oiling setup of the cross and topslide, i.e. add oil grooves, but that's further into the future and will require some scraping. I also learned that if you can avoid it, you don't want to scrape lathe bed ways, they attract dirt more easily and the wipers don't function as effectively. So if you're gonna scrape something to hold onto oil, scrape the thing that rides on the ways. So in that respect smooth ground ways are preferred.
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Apr 4, 2018 10:46
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iForge posted:i decided on a tool post and bought a small starter kit of insert tooling to mess around with. I have a bunch of HSS to use as well. The tool post cross slide nut will require modification to fit my lathe but I can have that done easily enough. Hey looks like I'm a little late here, but imo the BXA / 200 series is probably too big for a ~12" swing machine? You don't really need the >1/2" shank capacity for most things, the added bulk of the larger post/holders will eat into yr work envelope, and you may run into issues bringing smaller tools up to, or larger shank tools down to centerline. Personally I'd go with an AXA / 100 series until 14"+, although I'm not a south bend whisperer so maybe I'm wrong in this case? Aloris is sweet as heck but phase II/etc aren't bad for the money and totally usable, if a bit squishier. Definitely stay with the wedge lock over the piston type, too. And save the lantern holder somewhere, you'll likely want it someday. And get at least a couple spare 1/4" or 5/16" HSS sticks, they're only a couple bucks per and super flexible for all kinds of work. You can't afford to not have a couple on hand for that weird job that just came up https://www.amazon.com/HSS-cutting-tool-blanks-set/dp/B0002EXRWW/ Lovely old piece of iron ya got there 
Lathespin.gif fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 11:05
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So I kind of want to get back into metalworking/casting fine art of some sort as a hobby, took a class in college and it was good fun, but lol at the equipment/$$$ needed. Is the stuff in this link worth the asking price? What sort of costs would I be looking at for gas to run a furnace like this and melt down aluminum/silver/gold? https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/d/foundry-equipment/6546873688.html
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Apr 5, 2018 16:31
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Car Hater posted:So I kind of want to get back into metalworking/casting fine art of some sort as a hobby, took a class in college and it was good fun, but lol at the equipment/$$$ needed. Is the stuff in this link worth the asking price? What sort of costs would I be looking at for gas to run a furnace like this and melt down aluminum/silver/gold? If you wanna do it on the super cheap, especially if it doesn't need to last forever or be used more than once a month, this guy has a series of casting videos and foundry builds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHD10DjxM1g
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Apr 6, 2018 00:24
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I bought some tongs from a guy online. I had bought one set previously and was pretty happy with them, but the new ones... not so much. I put together a video showing what I think needs to be changed. Feedback is welcome. I want to send this video to the seller, but I don't want to come across like a jerk. If you're bored and want to watch me talk for 10 minutes about the finer points of tong construction... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4PeFyYZ6Gs
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Apr 6, 2018 21:28
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Decided to brush up on my welding before I have to spend 4 days straight welding things together next weekend. I think I’m gonna have to put some more time in. I wasn’t holding the torch correctly so they looked off. I did manage to slow down my movement speed though which was my biggest issue last time I welded.
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Apr 7, 2018 02:38
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Borrowed a machinist level from a friend. Gotta love old stuff like this. 
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Apr 9, 2018 20:11
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You know I had this idea last night about further protecting my lathe when not in use. Well I am far to loving lazy to use a cover I have to remove and put back every time I wanna use the lathe, but what if... I were to purchase fast food and disguise it as my own cooking? Wait, what? No I meant to say what if I were to buy a roller blind of appropriate width and fasten it to the wall behind the lathe, and when I am done for the day I just pull it over the lathe. Then when I want to work on the lathe just give it a tug and it will roll back up.
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Apr 10, 2018 08:03
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His Divine Shadow posted:You know I had this idea last night about further protecting my lathe when not in use. Well I am far to loving lazy to use a cover I have to remove and put back every time I wanna use the lathe, but what if... I were to purchase fast food and disguise it as my own cooking? Steamed hams, but when you let go of the roller blind it flies back to the wall and goes FWIP FWIP FWIP I guess what I'm saying is, that sounds like a good idea Seymour and you should try it.
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Apr 10, 2018 13:56
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Delightfully devilish, His Divine Shadow. (it seems like it should work ok)
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Apr 11, 2018 02:09
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About the only thing I'd watch for is to make sure it's fire resistant or mounted in some way where it's protected be cause anything anywhere near the lathe is going to end up with hot chips all over it eventually.
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Apr 11, 2018 02:18
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Would tig welding in a tuck under attached garage be the sort of thing only a dummy would do? I took an Oxy Acetylene class, and there's no way I'd ever do that in my garage, but Tig looks pretty dang clean to me. Like no sparks, no combustible gasses, seems pretty safe to me?
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Apr 11, 2018 19:32
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FWIW I do oxyfuel welding in my garage no problem and wouldn't consider it significantly more dangerous than any other form of welding if you take sensible precautions like clearing all flammable materials in a generous radius around the work spot, have basic fire safety supplies on hand (extinguisher, leather blanket, quench tub, ideally a CO detector if fuel gases/combustion are involved) and keep a firewatch once you're done. I don't think I'd do, i dunno, cutting torch work inside, but heating and welding have always seemed within reason. Anything that can heat metal to welding temps is going to present the same baseline property hazards. Stuff like no combustible gas does rule out a particular type of catastrophic worst-case accident, but the most likely and mundane risk- a hot bit of metal setting something smouldering, you not noticing, that smouldering thing starting a fire once you're not in the room to put it out while it's still small- will always be there. IMO a better criteria for picking a welding approach is rolling with whatever's most appropriate given the work you want to do, your skillset and your budget, and applying rigorous fire prevention measures regardless. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 20:33
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Tres Burritos posted:Would tig welding in a tuck under attached garage be the sort of thing only a dummy would do? I took an Oxy Acetylene class, and there's no way I'd ever do that in my garage, but Tig looks pretty dang clean to me. Like no sparks, no combustible gasses, seems pretty safe to me? I'm not 100% what you mean by 'tuck' and 'under' but if you're using Argon for shield gas, it is denser than air and could build up in any low-lying pockets to the point of replacing any oxygen(for you!).
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Apr 11, 2018 20:44
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Ambrose Burnside posted:and keep a firewatch once you're done. Is there a recommended SOP for this that I could read up on? I'm no blacksmith/welder, but every once in awhile I'll manage to generate some wood smoke while doing carpentry, and aside from carefully clearing out the sawdust and getting water on anything I can think of that might need it, I don't really have any clue what reasonable precautions are. I've heard of embers surviving in sawdust for hours only to ignite when the right conditions arose.
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Apr 11, 2018 21:56
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[quote="Ambrose Burnside" post=""483052740"]the most likely and mundane risk- a hot bit of metal setting something smouldering, you not noticing, that smouldering thing starting a fire once you're not in the room to put it out while it's still small- will always be there. [/quote] Been there, done that. Luckily a friend was visiting and bunking in the room next to the garage and smelled the smoke immediately, and there was a firehouse literally a block up the street, so it only got the outer wall of the garage, and not too badly, even.
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Apr 12, 2018 14:49
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is there a recommended SOP for this that I could read up on? I'm no blacksmith/welder, but every once in awhile I'll manage to generate some wood smoke while doing carpentry, and aside from carefully clearing out the sawdust and getting water on anything I can think of that might need it, I don't really have any clue what reasonable precautions are. I've heard of embers surviving in sawdust for hours only to ignite when the right conditions arose. NFPA says to remain in the area for thirty (30) minutes after hot work has ceased with all applicable fire-prevention measures available for instant use. Their definition of remaining in the area reads a lot like a military watch. You stand there and do literally nothing except watch
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Apr 12, 2018 16:32
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Thanks, that's helpful!
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Apr 12, 2018 17:40
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According to the last few New England Blacksmith's newsletters, we've had 3 blacksmiths shops burn down. Every single one was due to an electrical fire that started overnight. Not oily rags, not welding next to the sawdust pile. Safe, clean, modern electricity.
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Apr 12, 2018 23:41
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I machined my little mill's table (730mm / 29" long) on my bridgeport clone prior to scraping it. The results were an improvement, but still a 2 thou slant over the distance (before scraping). I tightened up the gibs on the mill prior to the operation so I'm not sure what caused the slope on the bridgeport, perhaps a bit of variation in height of the table. Is this sort of accuracy normal for a larger machine? My bridgeport clone is 1100kg. I'm thinking since their was no 'hump' in the middle of the machined part - it was a linear 0 to 2 thou slope - there was no 'see sawing' of the table from end to end, so it was likely due to a difference in height across the table. It's fairly new though so it shouldn't be due to wear... maybe just Chinese manufacturing. Edit2: Now that I think about it any slope almost 'must' be due to a lack of parallelism in the top of the table vs its underside/ways. If it was parallel but the saddle or knee/Z was tilted, the resulting machining would be flat on average, but with the effect of an out of tram cutter. Mudfly fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 05:10
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Pagan posted:According to the last few New England Blacksmith's newsletters, we've had 3 blacksmiths shops burn down. Every single one was due to an electrical fire that started overnight. Not oily rags, not welding next to the sawdust pile. Safe, clean, modern electricity. The first time I tried running my stick welder in a detached shed, something shorted in between the fuse (did not trip) and the breaker panel and everyone was hanging around for hours looking for the slightest hint of smoke from the walls, even after we killed the power to everything on that breaker waiting for an electrician to look things over. That was a bigger fire risk than any other event involving oxyfuel welding or blacksmithing in its proximity, so yeah, it makes sense.
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Apr 13, 2018 19:00
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supervising students let you bear witness to things wondrous beyond all reckoning today i saw an adult student (and ostensible career machinist doing skills upgrading) on the lathe, attempting to turn down fully-hardened O1 steel in between hard-quenching and tempering with carbide; he was running it so hard that the steel was melting and dripping onto the lathe bed. multiple people up to and inducing a department coordinator told him to stop and he refused, insisting they dont know how it works out there in the real world a world where carbide is invulnerable, i can only surmise a video of this wonderful thing exists but i wont post it publicly b/c its got faces in it. but man oh man its good
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Apr 13, 2018 20:27
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update: the brazed carbide tool he sacrificed on the altar of I Have Learned All There Is To Learn is totalled, ofc, but a delightful side-effect is that the tempered punch got so hot that it lost most of its hardness, and his piecemeal attempt to cool the punch down after someone forcibly shut the lathe off to save him from himself caused the punch to warp into a banana, and now it is Powerfully Unsalvageable. good thing he got all the technically-tricky work like stamp design machining done before catastrophically loving up something straightforward that every other human in the shop immediately recognized as an incredibly bad idea
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Apr 13, 2018 |
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Apr 13, 2018 21:09
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Good lord.
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Apr 13, 2018 21:17
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PM me and I'll edit the video for you, the world needs this.
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Apr 13, 2018 21:24
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shame on an IGA posted:PM me and I'll edit the video for you, the world needs this. This man is doing good work, here.
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Apr 14, 2018 00:41
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Ambrose Burnside posted:supervising students let you bear witness to things wondrous beyond all reckoning Haha what the hell. All the machinists in my real world don't try to machine hard steel.
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Apr 14, 2018 00:59
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School folks telling him to stop and him refusing should be grounds for expulsion. I'm only a sheet metal guy and I have seen some extraordinary injuries,nevermind what a fuckin' lathe can do.
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Apr 14, 2018 01:08
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I mean, it's not like machining full-hard is impossible. I love milling full-hard tool steel, the surface gets so shiny and smooth, and tool life ain't bad if you don't try to rush it. But why the hell would you try to machine it before temper? There is no situation I can think of where that is the right option.
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Apr 14, 2018 01:21
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If I saw one of my students doing something as idiotic as dripping molten steel onto the lathe bed and they refused to stop, I would physically pull them away from the machine and hit the circuit breaker, whatever they were working on be damned. That's unbelievable.
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Apr 14, 2018 02:26
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Sagebrush posted:If I saw one of my students doing something as idiotic as dripping molten steel onto the lathe bed and they refused to stop, I would physically pull them away from the machine and hit the circuit breaker, whatever they were working on be damned. That's unbelievable. This is effectively what happened after a while, the department coordinator got tired of him arguing about whether things melting while being turned is in fact normal and shut the lathe off and waited for the dude to grasp that it was staying off come hell or high water A Proper Uppercut posted:Haha what the hell. All the machinists in my real world don't try to machine hard steel. i mean he had the nucleus of a coherent idea; he accidentally put the thing in the oven before it got turned down to a size suitable for final grinding to spec, and instead of trying to grind like 3/8" of diameter away he decided to find some carbide and turn it regardless. which may have worked if he tempered it first to bring the hardness down at least a bit, and even more important, if he'd thought to use a cautious and sensible MRR instead of something more suited to hogging aluminum
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Apr 15, 2018 05:26
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shame on an IGA posted:PM me and I'll edit the video for you, the world needs this. one sec
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Apr 15, 2018 05:32
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Ambrose Burnside posted:one sec 
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Apr 15, 2018 05:56
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Learnt how to stick weld today. I had trouble getting it to strike but once I did that it went ok. Also learnt how to mill some slots which wasn’t too bad either.
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Apr 15, 2018 07:50
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