|
yeah the "big" speakers in my car were 6.5s and the bass was definitely lacking. had to trunk mount a shallow sub in the subfloor by the spare and that worked great
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2018 22:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 03:45 |
|
|
My last car with a good pair of 6x9s in the deck and 6.5s in the doors didn't need a sub, that's how good the 6x9s were at putting out bass. Saves space in the trunk too which is a pretty big deal. Id rather not have to use a sub if I don't have to, the 10" I have in my xB is just on the cusp of being too much for the space it takes up. They make stealth subs for xBs but they are ridiculously priced.
|
|
#
?
Apr 5, 2018 23:10
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:My last car with a good pair of 6x9s in the deck and 6.5s in the doors didn't need a sub, that's how good the 6x9s were at putting out bass. Saves space in the trunk too which is a pretty big deal. I have had good luck with the Kicker Hideaway powered 8-inch. Single cab trucks limit options a bit, slapping that thing under the passenger's seat didn't take up any of the tiny amount of space I have to carry poo poo in. What a mix of sizes: 6x9 fronts, 5 1/4 rears, 8 inch sub.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2018 14:54
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:My last car with a good pair of 6x9s in the deck and 6.5s in the doors didn't need a sub, that's how good the 6x9s were at putting out bass. Saves space in the trunk too which is a pretty big deal. I'm old enough to have used 6x9s. They were really a thing people did in the 80s (maybe 70s and very early 90s) when you didn't have an amp, or had a lovely one that couldn't drive a sub, or couldn't afford a sub or enclosure, or didn't really need that much bass because you were listening to rock/pop music anyway. 6x9s died after the 90s due to music style being more bass-y, cheaper amps and subs, and people being more serious about car audio. 6x9s are not good, and really only an option that should be considered if bass/quality is not that important, you don't want to buy an amp and don't want to get a small custom enclosure 8-10" sub that will fit somewhere due to custom price. I'd take them more seriously if they were 6x9 subs and not lovely 3 ways with dodgey cross-overs. E: I could live a happy life without any rear speakers, just front stage 6.5, mid and tweeter and a single rear sub. But some people like a bit of rear fill from 6" and front/back fade. Not me, I often got deafened in a friends car in the 80s/90s because all they had was lovely 6x9s and they wanted to crank them loud so they could hear them up front and I was in the back seat with my head right next to them. Give me a rear sub in the boot and just a pair of front splits any day. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Apr 6, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2018 17:44
|
|
|
I generally concur. My Crown Vic is set up with the separates in the front doors amplified, and the (OEM) rear deck 6x8 getting power from the head unit, and even so faded forward, and the JL Audio 10" in a box in the trunk (which I learned the hard way needed to fire rearward in its' current location.) At this point, I'm just sticking in speakers that I have, and will fit in the Corolla. When I feel like messing with custom door panels or pods, I will likely swap the speakers - 6.5" speakers in the doors, and 4.5" speakers in the rear deck. Right now there's only the 4.5" lower dash locations in the front. It's not a daily driver, so I just need ot to make noise that isn't terrible. On a side note, I noticed the 10" JL in the CV rattling a bit at low volume. Dang it. Might have finally killed it. It *is* 20 years old, at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2018 22:02
|
|
|
Better be playing some Super EuroBeat with these speakers
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2018 01:18
|
|
|
Nodoze posted:Better be playing some Super EuroBeat with these speakers Not yet, but I really do have several tracks from Initial D on my phone... So, this past Saturday, I decided the AE86 needed to be, as the British say, more *rorty*. Existing "Joe's muffler shop and cheese emporium" peashooter muffler:     That's a *2"* exit, and I poo poo you not the pipe going to the muffler is 1-7/8", I discovered after cutting the muffler out. Probably not all that restrictive, given the engine's might 82 HP, but *come on*. Why would you *install* such tiny poo poo? This is a replacement exhaust, not original. They weleded the damned hanger to the chassis:  As it happens, acouple of years ago, I found this in the parking lot at work:  It had obviously been dragging a while:  and finally their lovely booger welds let go:   (already cut off the remains of one of said booger welds there, but you can see the quality of the work where the muffler hanger was.) Weld on the other end of the muffler was pretty good:  But every other weld evident was utter garbage. Grind off all the garbage:  Then grind down the remaining weld:  Flowmaster is just about the same size as the peashooter, just thicker, and offset in/offset out, rather than offset in/center out. Made a bit of a mess of the hanger cutting it loose from the muffler:   Fortunately, was able to get the rod out with some lubricating spray, after some difficulty.  Now to eliminate that difficulty. First, straighten that kink:  Hydraulic press makes that easy. I was going to just drill a hole and use a washer and cotter pin, but as it happens, the steel rod is pretty much exactly the right diameter for M10. I have a metric tap and die set, so:   This made me happy. OK, next: adapting a 2/14" in and out muffler to a 1-7/8" tailpipe. O'Reilly's didn't actually have a 1-7/8" ID/2-14" OD adapter (they, of course, had the opposite, that is 1-7/8" OD/2-14" ID...) but after fiddling around with all their pipe and adapters, it turns out that 2-1/8" ID is pretty much 2-1/4" OD, and 2" OD is more or less 1-7/8 ID. Also picked up a muffler clamp so I don't have to weld the muffler on.  Fits!  I did end up cutting a slit in the 1-7/8" side, as it was just a hair too tight. I also happened to have some scrap 2-1/4" stainless pipe from the exhaust I put in my Cutlass, so, boom! Exhaust tip.  My welds aren't fantastic, but they're a damned sight better than the crap that was on there. I'm using fluxcore, AND welding stainless to mild steel.   A little "lanishing" as the Bad Obsession boys say:  and some cold galvanizing to keep the rust a little at bay:   Stuck on:     I had a bit of a moment when, initially, the exit ended up pointing directly at the tow hook, but after a little wiggling it slipped past on the outside. Uploading videos comparing exhaust notes. Will post when done.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 16:28
|
|
|
Awesome. I had a BMW 325e that I put a flowmaster on and it actually sounded very decent. You'll probably have a little bit of a drone but adds character.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 16:40
|
|
|
Muffler shop peashooter: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1V2HVjBpiA No muffler (because of course you have to see what it sounds like all uncorked): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RwxNqoCtE8 Flowmaster: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu1uvQCP4dg Note: no catalytic converter. Flowmaster is much deeper, and a bit louder. Much quieter than open exhaust. I think it probably needs a presilencer like an RX-7 in lieu of a cat. A small glasspack muffler usually works. There is a leak somewhere under the car, I can hear it puffing, which negatively affects the overall sound, at least at idle, but generally speaking, the idle sounds much beefier now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 17:10
|
|
|
I need to do something about my e34 muffler. It's the original 28 y/o ansa factory one and it's more an amplifier than muffler these days. E34 bmw is twin exhaust all the way through (1-2-3, 4-5-6 on separate cats and resonators) on 6cyl and it's all left up to the rear muffler to quieten it down together. I don't really care but family and friends get pissed off, plus I got stopped for a RBT last week and got dirty looks from the cops (he just gave a glance at my tyres to screw me over if I didn't pass the visible defect list and then waved me on luckily)
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 17:11
|
|
|
Mr-Spain posted:Awesome. I had a BMW 325e that I put a flowmaster on and it actually sounded very decent. You'll probably have a little bit of a drone but adds character. Drove it on the highway after, and it's no problem.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 17:11
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:I need to do something about my e34 muffler. It's the original 28 y/o ansa factory one and it's more an amplifier than muffler these days. This was sort of an opportunity thing, since I had the free found Flowmaster. I figured it couldn't be awful. With 82 HP, I need every bit I can get, and that lovely muffler shop generic muffler can't have been helping anything. I'd really like a Magnaflow. I like they way they sound, and stainless steel is nice, but free is an attribute overcoming many faults, perceived or real.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 17:17
|
|
|
SS when you need to shut something up. I once had my very first rx4 with twin 2" pipes from the header merging to single 3" and into a muffler, then over the diff as 3" and dropping down 2.5" rear muffler at the end in an effort quieten the 13b BP down. E: rear muffler was ss, main 3" muffler was mild steel I s.tuffed up badly as the 3" before the diff was mild steel, it obviously had a lot of work to do, but succeeded in only making noise. Mild steel mufflers sometimes work good as speakers  I was going to replace it with a SS muffler but after I rubbed the bodywork back for a respray I found nothing but body filler, rust and hail dents so I scrapped it (this was back in 95 when I bought it for $1300 and they were only worth $2000 - not the $25k they are worth now 
Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Apr 9, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 17:27
|
|
|
If you add a resonator it will get rid of that bees in a can sound, that would be way too loud for me imo. On my last Miata I got rid of the cat and it was a mistake because it sounded perfect before that, then went to a can of angry bees sound under high revs. Was gonna put a new cat back on but I ended up selling it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 18:07
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Note: no catalytic converter. Why not just put a cat on it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 18:12
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Why not just put a cat on it? Agreed, the high flow cats don't slow you down, plus then your exhaust doesn't smell horrible. Though when I put one on my subaru I was hoping to make it quieter but it didn't change at all.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 18:26
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Why not just put a cat on it? Because a cat is about 4x the cost of a test pipe
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 18:37
|
|
|
iwentdoodie posted:Because a cat is about 4x the cost of a test pipe I'd pay a little more for less lovely air.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 18:47
|
|
|
Applebees Appetizer posted:If you add a resonator it will get rid of that bees in a can sound, that would be way too loud for me imo. Yeah, I don't like that rasp on decel at all. Bet I could cut a resonator off of a Crown Vic and slip it in the cat location on the Corolla. I say Crown Vic because they're easy to get to (right near the end of the tail pipe in civilian models) and should be stainless steel. Cost would likely be negligible at a wrecking yard. Larrymer posted:Why not just put a cat on it? Mainly because then I'd have to pay for a cat, and probably an air pump. Exhaust would probably smell better, though. iwentdoodie posted:Because a cat is about 4x the cost of a test pipe Especially a good one. I had a spare Magnaflow one for my FC RX-7, good for an RX-7 or a 7L truck  . I can't remember if I gave that to the guy who bought the FC or not.Larrymer posted:I'd pay a little more for less lovely air. FWIW, I didn't take it off, and probably wouldn't have if I were making that choice. I'm aware that modern cats don't appreciably reduce power.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 19:30
|
|
|
A Magnaflow cat is $150 for the OEM direct fit, or $80 for the universal. A Walker direct fit is $50.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 19:31
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:A Walker direct fit is $50. And would still rust off within a year, even in your climate.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 19:37
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:And would still rust off within a year, even in your climate. Walker claims it's stainless steel. So it'll probably still rust.
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2018 23:58
|
|
|
They clean it before sending it out so there are no stains duh.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2018 00:42
|
|
|
Copypasta from the "what did you do to your ride" thread:Darchangel posted:Changing gears (heh) slightly, I pulled the blown engine out of my '79 RX-7. I should probably go change the title if I'm going to include the '7s here as well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2018 18:49
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Not yet, but I really do have several tracks from Initial D on my phone... I may or may not own a significant portion of the Super EuroBeat catalogue 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2018 22:07
|
|
|
No Corolla work because I decided that one project was not enough, and decided to get something done on my '79 RX-7. I'll let you in on a secret - I never intend to keep the AE86. It's a means to an end, namely, getting rid of the '90 RX-7 (accomplished) and obtaining $$ (...I'll let you know when that happens.) I was just cleaning it up and fixing things, but: scope creep. When last we met, I had this:  I also have this:  which has this:   As you can see, I've already robbed parts from it. In addition to the master cylinder, it has no diff in the rear axle, and therefore no driveshaft, either. This was a runner, of sorts. That's an FC 13B in there, and it has coolant o-ring issues. For those not familiar with rotaries, because of their construction, there are giant o-rings separating the outer coolant jacket from the combustion chambers. This one leaked a little. It still ran, but overheated because exhaust gasses were getting into the cooling system and heating it up. Paul Yaw had a procedure for fixing it, until one could rebuild the engine, known as the "Block Seal Trick" involving Permatex Copper Block Seal. It actually seems to work. I did that, and then removed the intake because the GSL-SE (series 3) intake that was on it doesn't really fit quite right on this series 4 engine, and I had a spare series 4 intake. I just... never got back to it. I did plug the intake ports with rags, though.  ...oh. Well, poo poo. The white paper shop rags are clearly inferior. Engine is stuck. I'll have to see if I can get it unstuck. If not, rebuild! (At which point I will likely just rebuild the series 5 engine I have, instead.) I can use this as a mock up for everything, since it was already in a first gen RX-7. Onward, therefore! On Saturday, first I blew all the leaves and crud out of the engine compartment, then I got everything disconnected except the oil cooler lines, and the speedo. It's just sitting there on the mounts.   On Sunday, I disconnected those, hung it from a chain, removed the shifter and the transmission crossmember, and started pulling:   Amazingly, it came out with little resistance.   As far as I can tell, that's an FC transmission as well (the ridges across the bellhousing are the telltale. FB transmissions are smooth), which is interesting, since those supposedly have the shifter position a bit further rearward, enough so that it doesn't fit in the hole correctly. This one seemed to be exactly where it needed to be. As I recall, it drove fine before I parked it. That done, I rearranged the pavers it sits on to move it a bit forward, and another 8" away from the fence, for better access.  I'm probably going to be stripping it, so being able to open doors and such is important. Then, with the aid of my newly-purchased Harbor Freight 120V AC winch, I dragged it back and forth a couple times to get it lined up properly and slotted into its spot.  Then I put a bucket over the engine because I needed to head out to my nephew's birthday party:  I'll drag it into the garage when I have a moment this week. The Corolla will be getting more attention soon. I have upholstery materials ready to go, and I think I found an SEM vinyl dye that's closer to the interior plastics color than the paint I bought. I lost my color chip sheet for SEM dyes somewhere, but the version on the web doesn't seem to be too far off. Worth a few bucks to order a can and see.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2018 23:47
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:...oh. Well, poo poo. The white paper shop rags are clearly inferior.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 10:20
|
|
|
Let me know when you're thinking of letting the toyota go.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 18:30
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:Have a look through the ports to see if it's rusty inside. If it's not then tip it over and fill 'er with diesel to soak for a few days. As it turns out, it's not bad, and wasn't really stuck. First I had to move it into the garage, so I loaded it onto my garden cart, which handled the load fine despite me not checking the tires and having only 10 PSI or so in all 4. It was a bit harder to turn and pull than it should have been, but it made it the 25 feet to the garage.  I pulled the plugs, and only one had a tiny bit of rust on it. Then I pulled the exhaust manifold and had a look inside the chambers as best I could. Bunch of gunk collected under the manifold:  Not a bunch of rust, thankfully, but some white powder. Possibly corrosion, possibly from the Block Seal I used.  Tough to get a picture of without a borescope (which I need to get one of these days.) Front rotor was better, just a little of the powder (not visible in the picture):  Rear rotor surface:  I feared that the powder was actually a solid chunk or something, but a little air hose action cleared that up:  ...and also let me taste that it was almost definitely the Block Seal. Blech. Big pile of powder dust, plus whatever leaves happened to be nearby:  (finger for scale) Still believing that the engine was stuck at that point, I got out special tool MZ/FUCKINGTURNYABASTARD-7:   It's the business end of a rotary starter with the bendix welded solid, the shaft cut short, and a support and nut for turning added. Built from a description of an actual Mazda tool in the service manual for my '79. The idea is that a lot of the time when a rotary gets stuck, it's from carbon chunks getting wedged at the apex of the rotor. Turn it backwards to un-wedge it. The mechanical advantage of the starter drive gear is much better than any prybar on the flywheel. I used this successfully on my '90's engine, and it got my spare series 5 engine turning, though that one still has the apex seals stuck in the rotor, causing a lack of compression. Installed:  Put the ratchet on it... and it turned over with almost no effort. Turns out the engine wasn't stuck. The accessories (water pump most likely) were. Once that broke loose I could turn it over as normal from the front e-shaft bolt. I dumped some transmission fluid in the chambers and cranked it around. Put the plugs back in and got 3 reasonable chugs from the front rotor, and one from the rear, meaning I still have one aper seal on the rear rotor stuck in the rotor. I know which one, given which face it actually has compression, so I put that apex seal at the bottom and squirted a bunch more ATF into the chamber. I'll let it soak a few days and give it another try. Worst case, there's enough compression on the front rotor to get it started. The stuck apex seal should loosen up with a little heat and flamen-bangen. If I had any diesel handy, I'd probably try that - good thought. I do actually have a diesel fuel jug, so I could go grab a gallon, I suppose. I also almost forgot I have a complete '86 SE which has a running engine I could pull. I don't have a title for that car, so... I was thinking about making a pickup out of that one, but I'd have to deal with the bonded title process, and it's a little ragged. And I obviously have the unique-to-GSL-SE parts on this engine. For that matter, I think I have another set of the front cover and oil pan elsewhere. Holy poo poo I may be able to drive my '79 this year!
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 18:31
|
|
|
Mr-Spain posted:Let me know when you're thinking of letting the toyota go. I'll post it up in SA mart first for sure, just on the hope that I won't have to deal with Craigslist morons.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 18:32
|
|
|
Diesel is what we used to use back in the day. Not sure about ATF, could work if mixed with something - like the ghetto penetrant cocktail made with ATF and acetone. Do you have acetone, toluene or carby cleaner to mix with the ATF?
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 20:07
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:Diesel is what we used to use back in the day. Not sure about ATF, could work if mixed with something - like the ghetto penetrant cocktail made with ATF and acetone. Do you have acetone, toluene or carby cleaner to mix with the ATF? Most of that, somewhere, or available. I know I have acetone, and the really nasty carb dip, if it hasn't all evaporated (or eaten through the can again.) I also have some carbon dissolver stuff recommended in a rotary thread somewhere. Spyder's I think. edit: yeah: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3562990&pagenumber=46#post467821875 Lube Control LC20. My S5 engine is pickling in it, and has been a while. Guess I should check that. It's been a while.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2018 22:22
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:Most of that, somewhere, or available. I know I have acetone, and the really nasty carb dip, if it hasn't all evaporated (or eaten through the can again.) I also have some carbon dissolver stuff recommended in a rotary thread somewhere. Spyder's I think. Well, are you going to let me know how it works??? Hah. I don't think Spyder had tooo much luck there with pickling engines, despite the glowing reviews. I have, however, torn down a Subaru motor where I ran that stuff, and most of the carbon was now a honey like goo. Would recommend.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 02:32
|
|
|
Squinting at that transmission, I'm pretty sure it's a hybrid - front case is definitely FC, but the shifter housing looks like FB. Entire tailshaft housing may be FB, hard to tell.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 13:59
|
|
|
Commodore_64 posted:Well, are you going to let me know how it works??? Hah. I don't think Spyder had tooo much luck there with pickling engines, despite the glowing reviews. I have, however, torn down a Subaru motor where I ran that stuff, and most of the carbon was now a honey like goo. Would recommend. Hasn’t worked so far on the S5 engine. Checked it last night, and it’s still pretty much same as it was. mekilljoydammit posted:Squinting at that transmission, I'm pretty sure it's a hybrid - front case is definitely FC, but the shifter housing looks like FB. Entire tailshaft housing may be FB, hard to tell. I’m sure they did something to it. It fit like stock. That would be the correct way to do it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 17:02
|
|
|
Woot! New thread title, thanks to
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 21:57
|
|
|
it is more descriptive
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 23:07
|
|
|
That's the idea! I will ruin all the things to the best of my abilities.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2018 23:23
|
|
|
Previously mentioned I bought a winch to drag things around. Harbor Freight 3500 lb. 120V AC winch. It came with a mounting plate to mount it on a hoist or overhead crane (then proceeds to tell you not to lift things overhead with it...) I added a small ATV mount offset to the rear a bit to give a place to attached securing chains where the fairlead would normally mount, and a two-prong vee-shaped wall-mount hanger to serve as a carry handle.   It worked well to muscle the blue RX-7 around, and I expect to use it for many years in similar situations. No other progress to report. Saturdays was a family day, and Sunday was fix the Kia day, as noted in the "What Did You Do To Your Car" thread. Yesterday, I did install LED retrofits in the fixtures I installed on the back of my garage door a week or two ago. Got tired of it being dark under the door when it was open:    In the upright and locked position:   (These are before the LEDs. The only visual difference is that the LEDs are T8 size, so skinnier.) Work like a boss. I think I'll put an additional, possibly smaller, fixture in the middle, if I can, but it'd much better that it was as is.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 18:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2024 03:45 |
|
|
Oh, and I ordered some stuff from Megazip to be shipped Heater valve control cable, rear side panel clips, and rear side panel trim at the door. All discontinued from Toyota USA.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 18:38
|
|