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Lmao yeah gotta have that last extra 0.5hp, can't have an underpowered sr400, that wouldn't do at all.
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Apr 18, 2018 03:22
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Slavvy posted:Lmao yeah gotta have that last extra 0.5hp, can't have an underpowered sr400, that wouldn't do at all. I don't understand, am I wrong for wanting to try to save a few hundred bucks on my first bike?
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Apr 18, 2018 04:00
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You want to save money by buying a used bike for more than the same bike costs brand new at a dealer...? What am I missing here.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:08
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Slavvy posted:You want to save money by buying a used bike for more than the same bike costs brand new at a dealer...? What am I missing here. I was thinking the used one couldn't be more than 4000, saving at least 900 before dealer add all their fees since the bike is already registered for the rest of the year. I would just be paying taxes on whatever we tell the DMV the sale price was or am I wrong on that? edit: I guess I should mention that I said earlier in the thread my budget was around 5k, I dont remember if I mentioned that included getting gear as well. Gropes fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 18, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 04:16
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save money by actually saving money. The correct question is, "is this a deal" and we say gently caress no. If you are going to explain why you want it anyways then dont ask in the first place
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Apr 18, 2018 04:27
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I'm not in America so I have no idea about that stuff, but the ad is for 4900 and I'd be absolutely astonished if someone who has telegraphed themselves as a tremendous dickhead by advertising a used bike for RRP would be willing to chop a grand off their asking price. My original post was in regards to your mentioning the running in period and the relative insignificance of being correctly run in vs not on an sr400, an engine best described as 'rustic'.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:27
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Fauxtool posted:save money by actually saving money. The correct question is, "is this a deal" and we say gently caress no. Yeah I guess this was more what I wanted to know, thank you! My wording was misleading there.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:35
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Woke up kinda sore this morning from grappling with that thing like a Greco-Roman wrestler all yesterday afternoon. I let it cook in the sun all morning, spritzed liberally with soapy water. Definitely helped as far as pliability and sliding on and off the rim; I got the bead loose on the other side... and now I can't even pull the rim out of the cursed tyre. I wonder if I haven't screwed up the bead (or if it came like that from the factory/happend in transit) or something. Just got off the phone with the shop and have resigned myself to paying whatever they want to make this not my problem anymore. There are plenty of other things the bike needs and I need to get working on them while I have the time, probably just going to walk home if I ever get a flat in the field  Am going to try the front tomorrow afternoon once I get the rear back and on the bike, maybe it'll be more cooperative.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:36
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Slavvy posted:I'm not in America so I have no idea about that stuff, but the ad is for 4900 and I'd be absolutely astonished if someone who has telegraphed themselves as a tremendous dickhead by advertising a used bike for RRP would be willing to chop a grand off their asking price. I just said that its what I read, people recommended them used because of some break in period at 6k. I don't have the experience with these to say whether or not that matters when considering price, wasn't meant to seem smug.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:37
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As you get into bikes you'll learn it's an activity which attracts internet experts who like to spin elaborate stories based on the half understood snippets of conversation emanating from people who know what the gently caress. Break in is something that happens in the first thousand or so km from the engine being new. You're supposed to use the engine in a variety of loads and speeds, without thrashing it to death, lugging it in traffic or sitting at one speed on the motorway for hours. This is for a bunch of technical reasons relating to how combustion engines work and are built that you're welcome to google for yourself. After that period is over, you're meant to change the oil so all the metal shavings and other crap in there from manufacture can gently caress off. On a, for example, 1000cc sportbike, the difference between doing this properly and doing it badly can have a significant effect on the long term performance and durability of the engine. On a learner bike with an antiquated thumper it's not gonna matter worth a drat.
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Apr 18, 2018 04:53
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Slavvy posted:As you get into bikes you'll learn it's an activity which attracts internet experts who like to spin elaborate stories based on the half understood snippets of conversation emanating from people who know what the gently caress. Gotcha, thanks for the info. I'm going to go thru with the dealership then, what are the odds I can get them to throw in some reasonable gear with the price 
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Apr 18, 2018 04:57
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Gropes posted:I just said that its what I read, people recommended them used because of some break in period at 6k. I don't have the experience with these to say whether or not that matters when considering price, wasn't meant to seem smug. if there is anything notable you need to do to break it in the dealer will tell you and your first service is probably covered. At least mine have all been for the last few bikes I bought new in So Cal. Anything newish on CL will be near MSRP or have something wrong with it like it was dropped. If you arent mechanically inclined you will probably overpay for newer bikes. Personally I like to look for low mile bikes that have been lowsided with the owner clearly not having full coverage. Its important that you be honest with yourself what you want. If you want to look cool and saving money isnt a priority thats ok, but you need to admit it so you can get advice with that in mind. If you want to save some money on gear go try it on at Chaparral Motorsports then buy online. Its far away but they have the biggest gear selection by a long shot. At least get your gloves or boots there so you arent just using them for fitting and leaving. Amazon and revzilla can have some really steep discounts on particular sizes and colors that are less popular. Gropes posted:Gotcha, thanks for the info. I'm going to go thru with the dealership then, what are the odds I can get them to throw in some reasonable gear with the price A lot of dealers will throw in a helmet but its usually a sub $100 PoS you shouldnt want to keep. Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Apr 18, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 04:59
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Fauxtool posted:if there is anything notable you need to do to break it in the dealer will tell you and your first service is probably covered. At least mine have all been for the last few bikes I bought new in So Cal. Yeah I pretty much just don't like the look and stance of the ninjas that most people say are great for starting and I think ill be using it for a while so I wanted something still entry level but more my style. I appreciate the inight. Yeah I was planning on purchasing my own helmet beforehand anyway as to have one in case they allow me to test drive it. Do dealer's normally allow you to leave with the bike the same day?
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Apr 18, 2018 05:05
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Gropes posted:Yeah I pretty much just don't like the look and stance of the ninjas that most people say are great for starting and I think ill be using it for a while so I wanted something still entry level but more my style. I appreciate the inight. if you plan on test driving you will need to check with the dealer beforehand and they will probably direct you to the manufacturer's website where you have to schedule it. Motorcycles test drives are not at all easy to get like at a car dealer. Buying a bike the same day is the norm unless its a HD and they need to add $2k of chrome bolt ons
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Apr 18, 2018 05:09
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Fauxtool posted:if you plan on test driving you will need to check with the dealer beforehand and they will probably direct you to the manufacturer's website where you have to schedule it. Motorcycles test drives are not at all easy to get like at a car dealer. Ah okay, gotcha. I was expecting the "forced" test drive, good to know.
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Apr 18, 2018 05:11
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Two questions: Have you ever operated a manual motorcycle before? Are you aware the sr400 has no electric start?
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Apr 18, 2018 05:19
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Slavvy posted:Two questions: Yes to both, I thought maybe the kickstart would be cumbersome but people seem to think its easy to use so im willing to give it a shot.
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Apr 18, 2018 05:23
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Yeah it's not that hard once you get used to it, and that engine isn't particularly difficult to kick. Just making sure you know what you're getting into; I remember teaching someone to ride on a kickstart two stroke 150 and after the tenth stall she was ready to beat me to death with my own torn off limbs.
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Apr 18, 2018 05:27
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Hey where does a fine upstanding Californian go to buy his exhausts nowadays? Despite British Customs literally being a 15 minute ride from my house they won't sell me anything. I know why, the laws and all that. But where do I go? Ebay seems a route but the prices are all jacked. Do I actually have to have it shipped out of state and then shipped to me? If so... sup?
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Apr 18, 2018 07:37
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tranten posted:Hey where does a fine upstanding Californian go to buy his exhausts nowadays? Despite British Customs literally being a 15 minute ride from my house they won't sell me anything. I know why, the laws and all that. But where do I go? Ebay seems a route but the prices are all jacked. Do I actually have to have it shipped out of state and then shipped to me? If so... sup? do you want a chinese full exhaust with questionable performance but is extremely loud for under $200? goto Aliexpress Everything else find by exact model # from the manufacturer and plug into ebay. Buy from someone out of state so you avoid tax which you will definitely claim at the end of the year. I have found amazon good for searching by bike compatibility but prices are higher than ebay You are shopping for a euro bike. Everything being over priced should not be new to you
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Apr 18, 2018 08:30
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I know we've all said it a million times, but drat the SR400 is overpriced. I guess I must have forgotten that it doesn't have electric start.
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Apr 18, 2018 16:48
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My weed delivery girl rides one. She seems to like it. Idk if I’ll ever buy something with drum brakes again in my lifetime lol
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Apr 18, 2018 18:15
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tranten posted:Hey where does a fine upstanding Californian go to buy his exhausts nowadays? Despite British Customs literally being a 15 minute ride from my house they won't sell me anything. I know why, the laws and all that. But where do I go? Ebay seems a route but the prices are all jacked. Do I actually have to have it shipped out of state and then shipped to me? If so... sup? Can't they just sell it for offroad use only like every other exhaust manufacturer?
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Apr 18, 2018 18:26
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A MIRACLE posted:My weed delivery girl rides one. She seems to like it. Idk if I’ll ever buy something with drum brakes again in my lifetime lol loving correct. Everything I’ve done with vehicles in the past year or two, and drum brakes have driven me more to the brink than anything else. Talking ‘push the car into the Kalamazoo river and call it good.’
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Apr 18, 2018 20:00
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Revvik posted:loving correct. Everything I’ve done with vehicles in the past year or two, and drum brakes have driven me more to the brink than anything else. Talking ‘push the car into the Kalamazoo river and call it good.’ this is me, but with carbs
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Apr 18, 2018 22:46
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I picked up my bike from the shop today (for unrelated reasons — getting new tires on — although it was sitting for half a year before that). It was idling fine in the back, so I took it for a couple laps around the shop. Brought it to a stop and the engine died. Ok, there was only like half a gallon of fuel in there, probably ran out. So I put it on reserve, start it back up and head to the gas station. Nope, based on the meter there was still half a gallon. Now starting it is a bit harder but a few seconds later it starts up... and dies. So I borrow a screwdriver and pull in my idle screw, which doesn’t seem to have a big effect. Now starting it up is a lot harder (engine flooded?) and it dies almost immediately. When I’m able to start it with the choke out it idles a bit better, put it back and it dies. So it seems to be idling too lean or a fuel delivery problem, but only when it’s warm? Since I'm sure the shop ran/idled it, but maybe just to test the throttle for a few seconds. Anyway the one time I’m able to start it back up I drive it back to the shop with the throttle open the entire way, it actually seems to run fine like that. Just wondering what I should have checked/check now if this seems familiar to anyone.
Pie Colony fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Apr 19, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 23:57
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Revvik posted:loving correct. Everything I’ve done with vehicles in the past year or two, and drum brakes have driven me more to the brink than anything else. Talking ‘push the car into the Kalamazoo river and call it good.’ What? How? They’re dead simple Jazzzzz posted:this is me, but with carbs Same question.
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Apr 19, 2018 00:26
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Yeah what's wrong with drum brakes? Aside from that they don't really stop
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Apr 19, 2018 01:26
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They don’t stop, they’re terrible puzzle box things, and mostly I think it’s because the last ones I tried they sent me the wrong size pads and they were just too big and I spent way too long before I realized this.
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Apr 19, 2018 01:40
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Lmao if you haven’t stoppied a drum brake bike. Listen I’m not gonna argue that drum brakes are somehow great in 2018 but they can be made to stop abd they’re dead simple.
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Apr 19, 2018 02:01
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i've got no beef with drum brakes cable-operated drum brakes, though...
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Apr 19, 2018 02:07
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Cable drums are fine as long as they're dual leading shoe with an adjustable linkage and all the parts are in good shape. Problem is you'll almost never see an old bike with all the parts in good shape because the owners are all idiots.
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Apr 19, 2018 03:28
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Cable drums are fine as long as they're dual leading shoe with an adjustable linkage and all the parts are in good shape. Problem is you'll almost never see an old bike with all the parts in good shape because the owners are all idiots. For me the problem is consistency. I service a fleet of postie bikes. They're sold when they reach 3 years old and the company takes care of them religiously, they also get loaded up with a lot of stuff (document courier service) so they chew through shoes fairly fast and I swear to you they all have slightly different brake effectiveness and lever travel right out of the box no matter how much you gently caress with the adjustments. Pie Colony posted:I picked up my bike from the shop today (for unrelated reasons — getting new tires on — although it was sitting for half a year before that). It was idling fine in the back, so I took it for a couple laps around the shop. Brought it to a stop and the engine died. Ok, there was only like half a gallon of fuel in there, probably ran out. So I put it on reserve, start it back up and head to the gas station. Nope, based on the meter there was still half a gallon. Now starting it is a bit harder but a few seconds later it starts up... and dies. So I borrow a screwdriver and pull in my idle screw, which doesn’t seem to have a big effect. Now starting it up is a lot harder (engine flooded?) and it dies almost immediately. When I’m able to start it with the choke out it idles a bit better, put it back and it dies. So it seems to be idling too lean or a fuel delivery problem, but only when it’s warm? Since I'm sure the shop ran/idled it, but maybe just to test the throttle for a few seconds. Anyway the one time I’m able to start it back up I drive it back to the shop with the throttle open the entire way, it actually seems to run fine like that. Just wondering what I should have checked/check now if this seems familiar to anyone. Whoa there easy tiger, step back, get some zen and attack it systematically. What bike is it, what type of carb is it? First you need to fix your idle and off-idle response so float height, pilot screw, idle screw. DO NOT just gently caress with the settings randomly as this will make your job a gently caress of a lot harder. Identify and replicate the problem first, don't just add a whole bunch of variables and expect the solution to materialise from the forums. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Apr 19, 2018 |
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Apr 19, 2018 06:27
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Yeah what's wrong with drum brakes? Aside from that they don't really stop They don't like to get wet, and will start fading fast under heavy use. For street bike casual riding rear breaking duty they're great. Virtually every car hand-brake is drum still. Like others said, long as you take care of them they should be just fine.
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Apr 19, 2018 06:48
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I’m not one to call carbs very often, but bike that sat and won’t idle is a pretty obvious idle/pilot jet issue.
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Apr 19, 2018 06:56
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Slavvy posted:For me the problem is consistency. Its this. Drum brakes are conceptually fine, they stop fine when they're taken care of. The problem is the braking changes based on cable stretch, shoe life, the amount of brake dust caked up in the drum, whatever. Also they have no feel, you kind of cant modulate them at the limits of traction except by muscle memory. You either get no brakes, brakes, slightly more brakes, or a lockup. Most people dont commute and run to the store at the edge of brake traction, so this generally isnt a problem.
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Apr 19, 2018 15:13
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What? How? They’re dead simple Short version: because I'm lazy. I hate the process of getting to them and taking them apart/reassembling them repeatedly to clean or tune them. "Welp, this still isn't running right, gotta drain em again, pull em apart, move the clip up/down one notch." The boots not sealing right, etc. It's not that bad with a thumper but when they're buried in the valley on a V twin or when you're trying to sync four of the motherfuckers together, holy poo poo. Having the bike run differently when the weather changes. You get the idea.
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Apr 19, 2018 17:15
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Jazzzzz posted:Short version: because I'm lazy. This, really. Carbs work great the day you tune them. If you go up a mountain, if it gets cold, if it gets hot, if it gets too wet, they change. EFI solves all these problems by just letting some computer constantly tune your bike for you. Simple, yes. Worth the time, no. Arguably, discs are simpler than drums, so drums don't even have that going for them.
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Apr 20, 2018 00:19
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Brought the SR400 home today, thanks again for the newbie help guys. Definitely stalled it like 3 times 5 min away from home, the kick start takes some getting used to but I finally figured it out after scraping my leg on the bar a few times haha. Someone on a bike waved at me on my ride home from the dealer, felt cool 
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Apr 20, 2018 01:16
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R-Type posted:They don't like to get wet, quote:and will start fading fast under heavy use. Slavvy posted:I service a fleet of postie bikes. They're sold when they reach 3 years old and the company takes care of them religiously, they also get loaded up with a lot of stuff (document courier service) so they chew through shoes fairly fast and I swear to you they all have slightly different brake effectiveness and lever travel right out of the box no matter how much you gently caress with the adjustments.
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Apr 20, 2018 01:59
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