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There are a bunch of fuel filters that look like spin on oil filters. The box will say "fuel" or "oil". Don't know what the difference is though. They *seem* to be roughly the same kind of poo poo. Paper element, gasket in the usual spot etc. In a pinch you might be able to use one for the other.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:07
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hey, 2000 Toyota corolla is back. Today I was changing the spark plugs. the last 3 were easy, i put anti-seize, bada bing bada boom. the first one is stuck. i used an extra wrench for leverage but i could not get it out. i googled 'stuck spark plug' and i mainly saw to buy PB Blaster, and soak it over night. is there any advice beyond this? I would NOT want to pay someone for this, especially if i got 3 out of 4. But it is possible to damage the engine if I push/pull to hard right?
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Apr 23, 2018 20:27
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Don't put antiseize on spark plugs (unless they're black).
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Apr 23, 2018 20:44
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wesleywillis posted:There are a bunch of fuel filters that look like spin on oil filters. I'm prepared to be corrected here by the experts but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be a good idea, even if possible.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:51
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm prepared to be corrected here by the experts but I'm pretty sure that wouldn't be a good idea, even if possible. Yeah, just the difference in viscosities between oil and gasoline would necessitate significant differences in the filter media and construction. While they may both be paper elements in metal cans, the filtering capacity of a fuel filter is probably nowhere near large enough for engine oil. The oil would probably rip the fuel filter to shreds. Given the amount of effort it would take to kludge one to fit the other, it doesn't seem worth the risk.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:58
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wesleywillis posted:There are a bunch of fuel filters that look like spin on oil filters. You're thinking of fuel filters for larger diesel engines - those are often a similar type of filter. You won't see those on, say, a diesel VW, but you might see them on some diesel pickups, and you definitely see them on stationary engines (think diesel generators, pumps, etc) and 18 wheelers. And uh, how would you connect fuel lines to a spin-on filter if the vehicle doesn't already use that type of filter? EightBit posted:Go look it up on crutchfield.com, you might need a new center trim piece shaped to fit standard radio sizes and wiring harnesses. Crutchfield only deals with North American vehicles.
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Apr 23, 2018 21:01
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:And uh, how would you connect fuel lines to a spin-on filter if the vehicle doesn't already use that type of filter? Where there's a will, there's a Summit catalog full of AN fittings! 
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Apr 23, 2018 21:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Where there's a will, there's a Summit catalog full of AN fittings! Hell yeah I spent way too much time looking for a spin on fuel filter for my custom setup. I don’t remember why I didn’t get this one though... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10100
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Apr 23, 2018 22:17
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jiggerypokery posted:I want to upgrade the radio in my Opel Vivaro to allow bluetooth connection with my phone. Digital radio would be sweet too. USB would do, as long as it charges at the same time. Spend some time in a shop that sells car audio (not just installs it, or only installs what they sell. Someplace that will sell you the stuff to do it yourself). There are a zillion options for headunits (the name for a car's radio), what you're looking for should be easy to find. Once you've found some options you like, you'll need to think about fitting it into your van. Every new headunit comes with a wiring diagram that tells you how to hook it up, but it's easier and faster to find the right wire harness that will connect a Sony (or whatever) headunit to an Opel system. And the surround - the round plastic that fills the space in the dash around the rectangular headunit. The store that sells the car audio will sell the correct surround for your van. I found a video showing the interior of an Opel Vivaro (I don't know if yours is similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i05fdFNb9B0) and it looks like there's a backup camera display there. Do you have a backup camera? That might make things a bit more complicated, or just make the choices that will work more expensive.
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Apr 23, 2018 22:17
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Entirely different things. Fuel filters often look like a can with a pipe going into either end, oil filters are the spin-on oil filters or cartridges. It's the SLT v8 4.7. But it's probably a case of it being integrated with the pump. The fuel pump was just replaced recently, so I should be good.
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Apr 23, 2018 22:27
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StormDrain posted:Hell yeah I spent way too much time looking for a spin on fuel filter for my custom setup. You just know somewhere out there, someone has bodged enough anodized aluminum and braided hose together to run their fuel through a PH8A.
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Apr 23, 2018 22:29
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now im driving the car, and theres a light hesitation when accelerating. it doesnt last last long, but it seems consistent. while in park I pressed the gas (not like a ton but enough) and it seems kind of like a hiccup? i once again checked the internet and a few people said to unplug the battery, or have someone read the code even if the engine light isnt on (though it is and has been on for the last day), or drive a hundred miles and see if its still happening. because im going to get pb blaster anyways Ill have autozone check my code. any advice?
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Apr 23, 2018 22:53
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You may want to try disconnecting the battery. Odds are if your spark plugs were really bad the mix may be way out of whack and disconnecting the battery for a minute and re-connecting will reset it to defaults and it'll re tune itself for there. It can relearn from where it is but it will take a lot longer.
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Apr 23, 2018 23:39
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One of my rear shocks is leaking on my 06 Honda Odyssey. OEM replacement shocks are $100 each, which sounds expensive. I also see some on Amazon for $40 each which sound suspiciously cheap. What's a brand that sits at a good spot on the price/performance curve? Also, what's a good place to buy it from?
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Apr 24, 2018 00:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:You just know somewhere out there, someone has bodged enough anodized aluminum and braided hose together to run their fuel through a PH8A. Seriously considered that on the Beetle before I flushed the tank out with vinegar and a chain.
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Apr 24, 2018 00:16
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canyoneer posted:One of my rear shocks is leaking on my 06 Honda Odyssey. OEM replacement shocks are $100 each, which sounds expensive. I also see some on Amazon for $40 each which sound suspiciously cheap. Rockauto is a pretty reliable go-to for parts. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2006,odyssey,3.5l+v6,1432209,suspension,shock+absorber,7556
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Apr 24, 2018 00:31
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Entirely different things. Fuel filters often look like a can with a pipe going into either end, oil filters are the spin-on oil filters or cartridges. I really hate this new trend of integrated filters. It makes no drat sense to me at all.
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Apr 24, 2018 00:56
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Does a vehicle make it out of warranty without issue? Not our problem after that 
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Apr 24, 2018 00:57
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This is a bit dumb, apologies in advance. My VW Polo 2005 1.4L petrol has had its Emissions Control Light lit on the dash for ages. I originally got it sorted a couple years ago, and I suspect that the system is still fine and there's nothing mechanically wrong, it's just that the light is still on due to that electrical system not having been reset. The garage who did the initial fix said as much. I just need some advice as to what the mechanical issue (that caused the ECL to come on in the first place) is likely to have been as I've loving forgotten. It was something like some system on the exhaust(??) had got clogged(??) due to the exhaust being too fuel-rich(??) or something. All the garage did was put a bit of additive in the fuel, I did a drive out of town and back and took it in to them, and it was all sorted - the additive had cleaned out whatever deposit had built up in whatever system it was. (Then the light came back on a bit after, which the bloke at the garage had said was quite likely to happen and I could bring it back in and he'd reset the system for free for me. I never bothered to go back in, because I'm an idiot.) Anyone have any ideas what the mechanical fault would've been?
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Apr 24, 2018 11:06
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El Grillo posted:This is a bit dumb, apologies in advance. Do you mean the EPC light (Literally the letters EPC in lamp form) or the check engine light (a little engine)? It could have numerous causes, most likely it's the EGR valve and/or tube being clogged going from the mechanic's description. An additive won't do much but you can clean them by removing from the engine and using some carb or throttle body cleaner.
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Apr 24, 2018 11:16
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^^that was it! I had thought it was somewhere along the exhaust itself hence why I couldn't find it while googling I guess - looks like in fact EGR valve is usually between the intake and the exhaust manifold, which would make more sense given their function lol. And yeah, it was the EML/check engine yellow lamp; VW seems to also call that the Emissions Control Lamp (http://www.volkswagen.co.uk/owners/warning-lights). At least now I can go tell the mechanic I'm getting my MOT from what he should probably look for with this. Hopefully it's just the light. Thanks!
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Apr 24, 2018 11:25
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El Grillo posted:^^that was it! I had thought it was somewhere along the exhaust itself hence why I couldn't find it while googling I guess - looks like in fact EGR valve is usually between the intake and the exhaust manifold, which would make more sense given their function lol. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scanner-Engine-OBD-II-Diagnostic-LITOON-UK/dp/B072HF3SXN/ref=sr_1_3 Buy one of these code readers and you can a) find out exactly what the problem is and b) make the light go away If you have an android phone, buy an ELM327 dongle and the free Torque app instead.
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Apr 24, 2018 11:40
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Oh goddamn that is cool. Ordered.
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Apr 24, 2018 11:46
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Planning to buy a 2016 Honda Civic Ex-T 1.5L with 35k miles. Any input on gasoline consumption? The Civic forums are a combination of "it doesn't matter," "carbon buildup in lower octanes!!," "well it's efficient anyway so why NOT run premium [this logic makes no sense to me]?". So, here I stand in the AI Stupid Question Thread, looking for answers. Also, other input on this car such as "DON'T BUY IT HONDA HAS A TERRIBLE TRACK RECORD WITH TURBOS" is welcome, though not expected.
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Apr 25, 2018 01:06
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Cretin90 posted:Planning to buy a 2016 Honda Civic Ex-T 1.5L with 35k miles. Any input on gasoline consumption? The Civic forums are a combination of "it doesn't matter," "carbon buildup in lower octanes!!," "well it's efficient anyway so why NOT run premium [this logic makes no sense to me]?". Check the CarFax, make sure it wasn't a rental. That year and mileage makes me nervous. Honda's been making turbos for 30-odd years now. It's not that complicated. Don't worry about that aspect of it. The standard answer for regular vs. premium is that cars have knock sensors and will advance the timing as far as the fuel's octane rating will allow. Premium will give you more power and a bit better efficiency (moreso with a turbocharged engine), which somewhat offsets its higher price. The price of premium is generally much higher than regular at the moment, however, so if saving money is your main goal you're probably money ahead with regular. You could compromise with midgrade.
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Apr 25, 2018 02:00
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Deteriorata posted:Check the CarFax, make sure it wasn't a rental. That year and mileage makes me nervous. Heh, you and the A/T buying thread think alike. First thing I did was ask for a carfax. It's a one owner trade in after the owner moved from Indiana. It has no accidents or any history other than being bought, serviced, and traded in. So other than possibly improving my performance by ~6 HP (according to the civic guys) and 1-2 mpg, which doesn't particularly interest me at an additional $0.30-0.50/gallon, are there any long term benefits to using premium? I'm mostly thinking of turbo lifespan and repairs.
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Apr 25, 2018 02:15
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resetting the battery seems to have worked. still working on the stuck plug. a non-related question: ive never driven very far in this car before (beyond 30 miles one-way and back). a friend will be in a nearby city 140 miles away. How do i know if my car can handle this? its never broken down before, but i grew up with a family that only ever owned poo poo mobiles that always broke. i have roadside assistance with geico. im not certain i could afford a 140 mile tow..
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Apr 25, 2018 03:27
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Cretin90 posted:Heh, you and the A/T buying thread think alike. First thing I did was ask for a carfax. It's a one owner trade in after the owner moved from Indiana. It has no accidents or any history other than being bought, serviced, and traded in. The turbo is completely disconnected from the grade of fuel you use. Oil quality will affect it, because the turbo will be part of the oil system. If the car is designed to run regular run regular.
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Apr 25, 2018 04:16
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Wrar posted:The turbo is completely disconnected from the grade of fuel you use. Oil quality will affect it, because the turbo will be part of the oil system. Helpful thanks. Owners manual says use 87 or higher, "Honda recommends TOP TIER Detergent gasoline where available."
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Apr 25, 2018 04:31
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Cretin90 posted:Helpful thanks. Owners manual says use 87 or higher, "Honda recommends TOP TIER Detergent gasoline where available." Top Tier has nothing to do with octane. Use 87.
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Apr 25, 2018 04:33
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Top Tier basically means don't use extra-chunky gas from JOE BOB'S PUMP AND DUMP. Pretty sure nearly every widely available brand meets it.
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Apr 25, 2018 05:21
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Edgar Allan Pwned posted:a non-related question: ive never driven very far in this car before (beyond 30 miles one-way and back). a friend will be in a nearby city 140 miles away. How do i know if my car can handle this? its never broken down before, but i grew up with a family that only ever owned poo poo mobiles that always broke. Geico's roadside will only take you a handful of miles, and counts as an insurance claim. AAA Plus would be better (up to 200 miles on the first tow, up to 100 on others), but it does cost more, and you have to pay for the full year up front (upside is, using AAA doesn't count as a loving insurance claim like Geico's roadside - and most other "roadside assistance" offered by insurance companies - does). Check the condition of belt(s) and hoses. If the belt(s) show any cracks, replace them before the trip. If the hoses feel brittle or look like they're bulging, replace them. If they feel softish (while remaining firm, if that makes sense), they're probably fine. Check your tires for proper inflation (INCLUDING THE SPARE!), make sure they're not dry rotted. Make sure oil and coolant are topped off (check coolant when the engine is stone cold). FWIW, highway miles are the easiest miles in the world for a car; it just sucks a lot more if you do break down on a road trip. IOwnCalculus posted:Top Tier basically means don't use extra-chunky gas from JOE BOB'S PUMP AND DUMP. Pretty sure nearly every widely available brand meets it. To expand on this, I'd say it's much more important to hit a gas station that's busy - that way you know they have high turnover, meaning their fuel doesn't have a chance to go stale. Almost all of the fuel in a given area comes from the same refineries or storage tanks; the additive package is what determines if it's "top tier" or not. A regional chain (QuikTrip, or QT) flat out admits that all fuel at their stations come from the same place as all other fuels in the area (which is the big secret that the industry really doesn't want you to know), but they're still considered Top Tier. Their stations tend to have very high turnover, and their additive package is what makes their fuel top tier. Busy stations are a lot more likely to properly maintain their tanks, pumps, and filters vs Joe Bob's Pump, Hooker Dump, Bait, and Taxidermy. I'm also a lot more likely to trust fuel from a corporate owned store vs an independent that happens to sell, say, Shell or Chevron. I know how much maintenance goes into the Shell down the road from me just from BSing with the manager (pretty much zero until poo poo breaks or the filters get so clogged that it takes several minutes to get a single gallon out of a pump), for example, but I know they have high turnover due to being right on a major highway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 08:07
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To add even more: there are filters on every pump nozzle, inside the body of the pump. They (to bring the conversation kinda back to what we were talking about) look a lot like spin-on oil filters. There is also an additional final mesh filter usually in the nozzle itself. A busy gas station not only gets fresh gas in the tank all the time (meaning you get less dead raccoons or boulders of grime in the underground tank, from frequent flushing), but has to change those filters pretty regularly, because they do get clogged up. Have you ever gone to a gas station and had it pump reeeeaaaalllyyyyy slowly? That's normally not a pump issue, but a clogged filter issue. The really, really remote "Bob's Tar and Gas 'n Chikn on the Cob" fill stations? Well, they make filter bypass kits. You can find them at the hardware store, but they have a funny name. "Awl." Huh, weird. As for long trips, think of it like this: Add up the mileage of a normal workweek commute. If you work 4 days a week, 30 miles a day, that's 120 miles right there. Do you trust your car for that? Do you do a special check-off of the general health under your hood each Sunday? I mean, you kinda should, but bet you don't. Give everything under the hood a good once-over with your eyeballs, and maybe even start the engine up and check with your earballs, too. Check the coolant overflow bottle (should have something about halfway up in it on a hot engine, or nearly empty on a cold one, but never completely empty), the oil, the power steering and brake fluids. Also, if it's easy to access (  Toyota), pop the air filter out and give it a few whacks on the side of the tire to knock the dust loose, then re-install.Boom, road-trip ready.
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Apr 25, 2018 08:23
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Check the coolant overflow bottle (should have something about halfway up in it on a hot engine, or nearly empty on a cold one, but never completely empty) This really depends on the car. GM's usually use a pressurized surge tank instead of an overflow - it's usually the highest point in the cooling system, has the "radiator cap" screwed into it, is plumbed directly into the cooling system instead of just getting the overflow/vacuum, and it should always remain relatively close to the same level. On mine, halfway up is the "cold full" mark, and it goes up very slightly when the engine is hot.
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Apr 25, 2018 08:28
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Ok, that last post got me thinking. I've got a 2012 Wrangler 3.6L. These engines are kind of notorious (and there seems to have been a class action suit filed last year over this) for having leftover casting sand from the cylinder heads loving up the water jackets/radiators/heater cores. My heater core was definitely hosed, noticeably at 40k miles. Conveniently, the cooling system is not considered part of the power train, so that was a $3,000 quote to repair. I did it myself, along with a new radiator, thermostat, and hoses. As much as I could replace, and I flushed it until it appeared to be good then I flushed it again. Didn't want to deal with it again. Fail. The heater core keeps clogging. I made a little ~1gallon pressure chamber out of ABS that I fill with water and pressurize with an air compressor to try to force the poo poo out. I collected an absurd amount of crap the first few times. It's kind of a hassle, so I found an inline filter to install in the heater inlet hose. It collects all kinds of poo poo. A shocking amount. But I've noticed that it's not all the fine sand and crud I was initially getting out of the heater core...it's also tiny pebbles. Sometimes around 1mm diameter. That seems way too big to be casting sand, and they're not uniform in color. How the hell is this stuff getting into my engine? It uses a standard overflow bottle, which does have a tiny vent hole, but it's in a really weird place to be taking stuff in...it mounts on the back of the radiator, high up. The hole faces downward but to get inside a rock would have to fly up a good 3 feet (it's forward of the tires) go up a narrow tube, fall into the overflow bottle, and get sucked up by a hose that's not even at the bottom of it. Edit: Three pictures I took a while ago. Godholio fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 15:38
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STR posted:using AAA doesn't count as a loving insurance claim like Geico's roadside - and most other "roadside assistance" offered by insurance companies - does).  If my calls to CAA had counted as insurance claims I would by uninsurable by now. I've made 16 calls to CAA in three provinces since 2009. I had a year of zero calls but otherwise I'm at a steady 2/yr across five different cars. Why yes, most of those cars were old enough to drink, why do you ask? Edgar Allan Pwned, get AAA. There was another poster in another thread recently with Geico roadside and they apparently recently changed their coverage radius down from 50 miles to 30 (I think), stranding him because he lives way out in the Middle of Nowhere, WY. Even the basic AAA will tow you to a nearby garage which is WAY better than the side of the highway, and most problems can be fixed by a random shop in less time than you might think. Especially with a very common car like your Corolla. Go on your roadtrip, visit your friend. It's what cars are for.
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Apr 25, 2018 16:34
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AAA is something everyone should have. I can't stress enough how rear end-saving it can be. My head gasket blew about 90 miles from home at the beginning of a long trip. AAA sent a flatbed to take it + me home, and I got curious enough to ask the dude what I would've paid if not for AAA. $100 + $4 a mile. So that breakdown would've been almost $500 before I even got it to the shop. They've also delivered gas a couple times when I had a bad fuel gauge and ran out somewhere.
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Apr 25, 2018 18:36
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Godholio posted:Ok, that last post got me thinking. Confirm that your "sand" is actually sand - drop a bit in vinegar and see if it fizzes. It may be carbonate lime scale. The slow corrosion of the metal in the engine will produce metal ions that will combine with carbon dioxide from the air and create scale. If it's not coming from outside the engine, it must be coming from inside. The coolant itself contains silicates to bond to the metal surfaces and protect them from corrosion. I guess it's possible some weird chemistry is making them precipitate out. Did you mix incompatible coolant formulas?
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Apr 25, 2018 20:33
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2002 Saturn SC2 52k miles Transmission dying, shop says $1500-2k to rebuild What do you do in this scenario with oldass car but relatively low mileage? Pay around the same amount as the car is worth to have it repaired? Or just drive the thing till it dies while doing the minimum basics to keep it running (tires, oil changes) while saving $ like mad to be ready to buy replacement used car w/ cash? Another option?
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Apr 25, 2018 21:36
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Deteriorata posted:Confirm that your "sand" is actually sand - drop a bit in vinegar and see if it fizzes. It may be carbonate lime scale. The slow corrosion of the metal in the engine will produce metal ions that will combine with carbon dioxide from the air and create scale. I'm positive I'm using the right stuff - HOAT (Zerex G05). I'm not so sure the dealer didn't gently caress up and add OAT but I've flushed the system a dozen times and changed radiators I think three times since then. I can't imagine there's enough of whatever they used to keep causing problems. The filter is definitely not catching as much stuff as it did, but there's still some accumulation after a couple of weeks. I'll try the vinegar test...hadn't thought of that.
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Apr 25, 2018 22:31
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